In
Malaysia, Takebayashi is the first of its kind — a Japanese restaurant
specialising in Kappo-style cuisine. Opened in September 2018, this Zen-like culinary temple has Chef/Managing Director
Tatsuo Takebayashi as the central commanding figure, impeccably suited in chef whites and
colourful camouflage pants.
According
to Takebayashi-san, Japanese Kappo
can be defined as a multi-course meal prepared by the chef in front customers
and served directly to them. The small and intimate ambience enables customers to
see each dish being prepared using the freshest, seasonal ingredients in close
proximity at the kitchen counter. Everything is above board with no holds barred on hygiene and chef-customer interaction.
Having
garnered stellar culinary credentials including past stints at NOBU in the
US of A, Malaysia and Montenegro, Japan Airlines’ in-flight catering company and
Crystal Cruise, Takebayashi is now charting a new course as the captain of his
own Kappo Restaurant at The Ritz-Carlton Residences.
Located
in a discreet corner of the towering high-rise, the tactile wood and slate grey
interior is dominated by a long countertop where the restaurant team holds court. An overhead display of house wines
and Japanese spirits coupled with warm, ambient lighting gives the
restaurant an austere yet cosy feel. A private room with six seats accord those
seated within a stunning view of the iconic Twin Towers.
Set meals
(RM50 onwards) and sushi rolls (RM40 onwards) are mainstays during lunch hours.
Dinner is the best way to experience Takebayashi Kappo as the culinary team will
have ample freedom to impress through an Omakase menu (RM280 per person)
comprising Zensai (appetiser), Sashimi, Agemono, Charcoal Grill, Sushi, Soup
and Fruits.
The
current menu is a work-in-progress, to enable Takebayashi ascertain the types of dishes that appeal to his clientele. Our dining experience got off to an orgasmic
start with the chef’s simple but ingenious Cream Cheese with Miso (RM30) appetiser.
Marinated
in miso for 3 days, the nondescript tiles of cream cheese came lightly grilled
under a salamander prior to serving. The resultant sensuous creaminess coupled
with the Japanese beanpaste’s seductive savouriness literally knocked our socks
off.
Hot on
the heels of that show-stopper was the second appetiser, Cold Tomato with Umami
Jelly (RM45). Skinned and cut into quarters, the red Japanese tomato came
surrounded by clumps of crystalline konbu-dashi
flavoured jelly. We detected the barest tinge of honey sweetness as we nibbled
on the fruity tomato before the umami taste resonated across our tastebuds when the soft jelly melted on the palate.
From the
Cold Dish section, Chef Takebayashi tempted us with White Fish with XO Salsa
(RM60). In this instance, the serving of Kinmedai
(splendid alfonsino) was artfully sliced and dotted with tiny dollops of his XO
salsa: a zippy mixture of dried scallop, garlic, spring onion and fried shallot
amidst the mild tanginess of ponzu sauce. It was a joyful flavour party in our
mouths; the fish's unadulterated sea-sweetness punctuated by faint bursts of punchy onion-sharpness.
We
also
fell hook, line and sinker for the house speciality of Salmon Tataki
with
Jalapeno Sauce (RM50). Such a mind-bogglingly simple creation but one
that left an indelible impression, thanks to the unmatched pairing of
lightly seared succulent Norwegian salmon slices with creamy, wickedly robust
jalapeno sauce.
Crispier
texture piqued our interest in the form of Popcorn
Shrimps with Spicy Mayo Sauce (RM45). The airy-light batter coating the
curls of springy shrimp were most addictive and when dunked into the
mayo dip, truly hit the spot.
Executive
Chef Jhon Chang also proved his sushi-making prowess when he conjured up two
varieties of Sushi: Toro (5 pcs RM190) & Aji (5 pcs RM40) for our dining
party. The raw fish slices were sizeable atop clumps of vinegared rice. Complemented by house-made pickled young ginger that suffused our tongues with warm sweetness and the bracing spiciness of freshly grated wasabi, every piece was an epicurean treat.
Sometimes
a testament of a good Japanese restaurant lies in its most basic offerings. At
Takebayashi, the slippery smooth and savoury rich Chawan Mushi with Dried
Scallop Sauce (RM45) underscores this maxim. Topped with shredded dried scallop, the silky egg
custard had plenty of textural surprises: ginkgo, chicken, prawn and a square
of yomogi (Japanese mugwort gluten) embedded
within it to tantalise us.
Playing his role as the perfect host to the hilt, Chef Takebayashi also plied us with his eponymous wine by Castello
di Luzzano Lolli Piacentini Malvasia. The semi-dry Italian sparkling wine brimming
with bright, effervescent fruity-herbal notes went like a dream with most of
the dishes we had savoured including Grilled Spring Chicken with Wasabi Pepper
Sauce.
The
elegant wine did wonders in amplifying the enticing smokiness of the lean
kampong chicken and the muted sweetness of the accompanying grilled white corn
and cauliflower, touched with viscous barbecue sauce.
When it comes to dessert, the fresh, in-season Japanese Pear and Vanilla Ice Cream brought our hugely satisfying visit to Takebayashi to a rousing conclusion.
For
reservations, please call Takebayashi Kappo, tel: 03-2181 3364. Address: Concourse Area,
Level 1, The Ritz-Carlton Residences, Laman Sentral Berjaya, 105, Jalan Ampang,
Kuala Lumpur. Business hours: Lunch Mon-Fri 12noon-2.30pm, Dinner Mon-Thurs
6.30pm-10.30pm, Fri & Sat 6.30pm-11.30pm.Closed for lunch on Saturday & whole day on Sunday.
