HENING: A SERENE MALAY FOOD OASIS

Ikan Pekasam Utara (RM15), traditional Perakian fermented ikan loma (river carp) with ground roasted rice and salt is one of the must try dishes at Hening. Sautéed with sliced chillies and onion, the slightly funky, acidic sour-salty and gritty pekasam fish isn’t for the faint-hearted. I love it precisely due to that distinct taste.

We are stoked to savour this and other Malay dishes at Hening, one of the handful of Malay cuisine outposts in the city. Housed in a repurposed old bungalow, three enterprising young men (pic above): Mohd Syariman Zulkifli (centre) and brothers Irham Shah bin Azhar (left) and Ehsanuddin Shah bin Azhar (right) strive to raise Malay cuisine beyond no-frills stall setting into classier environs aimed at locals and tourists.

Banking on their collective strengths and F&B experience coupled with guidance from Syariman’s father and former hotel chef Zulkifli Aziz, the partners aim to draw city folks, urban families and foreign visitors to Hening.

Hening which means serenity or peaceful in Malay, exudes charming old-school vibes thanks to its terrazzo floors and vintage elements. Ehsan relied on his architectural expertise to update the all-white interior with colourful artworks by local artist Rahim Ismail.

Chef Syariman who has 17 years of industry experience is responsible the restaurant’s food and kitchen whilst Irham takes care of marketing and financial matters, and Ehsan, manpower.

Menu-wise, Johor and Perak specialities take centrestage. Lunch dishes are ideal for communal sharing, served alongside Nasi Putih Daun Pisang (RM4 per portion), steamed basmathi rice wrapped in banana leaf.

Aside from pekasam, the appetising Thai-inspired Kerabu Limau Bali (RM15), is a notable spicy-tangy-salty pomelo salad. We recommend accompanying the rice with robustly flavoured mains such as Masak Lemak Daging Bakar (RM40) or Masak Lemak Siakap Goreng (RM45), smoky grilled beef slices or fried whole seabass in rich, turmeric-accented curry prepared following Negeri Sembilan style.

Subtly spicy-tangy tamarind sauce, chopped tomatoes and onion boosts the appeal of Daging Batang Pinang Bakar Air Asam (RM40), grilled tenderloin skewers. Mellower but no less tempting is Johor-style Asam Pedas Jenahak (RM45), fleshy whole snapper in piquant chilli-tamarind gravy.

To wrap up your meal, try nostalgic sweet treats of Pisang Madu Tiga (RM12), caramelised bananas with vanilla ice cream, and Sago Gula Melaka with fresh mango dices. Local tea-time treats such as Curry Puffs, Onde Onde and Bubur Cha Cha are available from 3pm onwards.

Alternatively, sample thirst-quenchers: Hening Pagi (RM12) using fresh pomegranate, Hening Senja (RM12) with crushed strawberries, soda and lemon, or Hening Malam (RM12), fresh watermelon juice with soda.

When it comes to good, comforting Malay food, Hening rules the roost.

For reservations, call Hening restaurant at tel: 017-331 6964. Address: 56, Lorong Damai 1, Jalan Damai, Kuala Lumpur. Business hours: 8am to 6pm daily

ALIYAA SHOWCASES SRI LANKAN CUISINE

 

Cinnamon, cardamom, chillies and coconut are essential building blocks of Sri Lankan cuisine. Tamarind and curry powder are also favoured in the arsenal of spice mixes for Chef Sivarajah Suppiah of Aliyaa.

Hailing from Nuwara Eliya also known as Little England, the tea growing hills of Sri Lanka famed for its cool climate and colonial era bungalows, Chef Siva started cooking at 18 years old. As the eldest child, he was responsible for preparing family meals when his parents were at work.

Chef Siva was recruited to join Aliyaa in 2008 and worked hard to eventually spearhead the Aliyaa team in 2012. He was instrumental in promoting the diverse flavours of Sri Lanka to the restaurant’s local clientele. “From our famous crab sambal to soul-warming kothu, Aliyaa strives to showcase Sri Lanka’s vibrant food scape through the intricate use of spices and techniques passed down through generations.”

The homespun Kothu (RM30-RM45) is a compelling must try offering. An ingenious way of using leftover string hoppers, roti or puttu (steamed cylindrical-shape ground rice cakes layered with grated coconut), it’s cooked with chicken, mutton, seafood or vegetables in addition to egg, onions, and chillies. Stir-fried in a heated stone pot, the comforting kothu’s enticing charred smokiness and mouth-watering medley of flavours and textures are similar to that of char kway teow.

Earlier we had devoured some golf ball-sized Fish Cutlets (RM24), crisp yet tender orbs of flaked mackerel fish and aromatic spices dipped into luscious onion sauce. No prizes for guessing why this dish remains a favourite among Aliyaa customers.

Another classic hit is Crab Meat Curry (RM185) in which chunks of sweet crab meat comes served in slightly creamy, robustly flavoured curry. Such bliss to enjoy sumptuous bites of crab meat minus the hassle of cracking shells and extracting bits of crab meat. The curry’s stealthy heat also left us hot under the collar.

Named after Sri Lanka’s beach resort with its time-honoured seafood and ancient fishing traditions, the speciality of Tiger Prawns Negombo (RM38 per 100g) proudly stood up to scrutiny. Huge, succulent tiger prawns in thick, aromatic curry reeled us in; capturing our hearts and tummies with a symphony of winsome flavours and texture.

We then relished scraping out the soft pulp from long, slender Moringa pods in a notable Drumstick Curry (RM22). Dousing the turmeric-accented gravy over rice, we were gratified to know drumsticks are good for digestion, high in fibre and rich in calcium and iron.

A gastronomic journey to Sri Lanka can be sampled via the Aliyaa Experience set menu (RM128 per person, minimum 2 persons per table). Crab Samosa and Atukkal Rasam served as the opening salvo.

The isle’s vibrant food heritage will be revealed to you as you work your way through the small portions of Fish Sothi, Prawn Varuval, Devilled Chicken, Mutton Curry, Cashewnut Paal (brinjal) Curry, Brinjal Moju (pickle), Nethili (dried anchovies) Sambol, Vallarai (medicinal herb also known as daun pegaga) and Carrot Sambol, Papadam and Chilli, along with Nei Soru (ghee rice) and string hoppers.

Completing the sensorial tasting party are warm, fluffy soft Sweet Appam sprinkled with palm sugar.

To cap off our Sri Lankan culinary adventure, we indulged in Wattalappam (RM15), a classic steamed custard pudding of coconut milk, eggs and spices delicately sweetened with jaggery.

For reservations at Aliyaa, call tel: 017-883 3738. Address: 48 G&M, Jalan Medan Setia 2, Bukit Damansara, Kuala Lumpur.

 

MERCHANTS ALL DAY DINING AT CROWNE PLAZA KLCC

 

Specialities from four corners of the world beckon from Merchants All-Day Dining restaurant at the new Crowne Plaza Kuala Lumpur City Centre (KLCC).

Located on Level 13, this modern and inviting outpost serves breakfast, lunch, dinner and even brunch to both hotel guests and the public daily. Neutral tones reign within: pristine white tiled walls with contemporary light fixtures, rustic communal tables, open kitchens and eye-catching décor evocative of a bustling marketplace form an inviting backdrop for dining, entertaining and relaxing purposes.

Open 6.30am to 10.30 pm (operational time applicable for various meal sessions), Merchants also has a tastefully furnished private dining room, available for reservations.

Pix courtesy of Crowne Plaza KLCC

Currently, the Selera Kampungku Buffet Dinner (RM188+ per adult) is served for ‘buka puasa’ (6.30pm-10.30pm) until 7 April.

On our maiden visit recently, lunch can be had from Merchants’ a la carte menu offerings of local classics and international fusion options. We opted for Gambas Al Ajillo (RM50), Grilled Australian Angus Beef Burger (RM55) and River Shrimp Curry Noodles (RM60) as there was only two of us.

Lunch started on a positive note with toasted baguette slices as the perfect accompaniment for the delicious tiger prawns. Cooked in olive oil, garlic and chilli flakes, the crustaceans were yummy and tasted even better when paired with the crusty bread soaking up the robustly flavoured oil.

That appetiser paved the way for the scrumptious burger. Sandwiched between a sesame seed bun, the juicy mince Angus beef patty was enhanced by caramelised onion, melted Cheddar cheese, smoked beef slices, sliced tomato, lettuce and gherkins.

For different taste variations, we tried sampling the burger with mayonnaise, ketchup, mustard and sweet chilli sauces in miniature bottles on the side. Chopped onion and jalapeno also provided sharp albeit welcome flavour accents. These condiments worked well with the burger. Our only complaint was the rather dry thick-cut fries.

If you choose to have the curry noodles, you can pick either wantan noodles, yellow noodles or rice vermicelli. We preferred rice vermicelli and it was a good choice to absorb the aromatic spiced broth.

The river shrimp imbued the soup with its rich, natural sweetness; its meaty texture adding textural appeal to the equation. Varied textural interest was drawn from the inclusion of chicken, beancurd puffs, long beans and beansprouts.

We completed our meal with Sago Gula Melaka (RM25), a pretty creation of moulded large sago pearls complemented by mildly creamy coconut milk with palm sugar syrup. As desserts go, it passed muster as we personally prefer the smaller sago pearls for nicer mouthfeel.

To work off our lunch a little, we went on a quick tour of the hotel, starting from the rainforest-inspired RhymBa Lobby Lounge & Bar where huddle spots and solo pods accord guests a nice respite or double up as functional work spaces.

The different room categories were pleasantly modern and versatile, designed to blend work/life travel needs for productivity and relaxation. Furnished in neutral tones to suit today’s business and leisure traveller expectations, each room come with spacious and well-appointed bathroom, comfy sofa couches, and tactile rainforest element décor.

Up of level 32 we were shown to Le Midi, a modern brasserie cum bar with expansive views of the city skyline and a speciality menu of French fusion fare.

Relaxation reaches new heights with the hotel’s rooftop infinity pool and cutting-edge gym. Also available is a spacious ballroom and five well-equipped function rooms with all the essential mod-cons.

For more information and reservations, call Crowne Plaza Kuala Lumpur City Centre, tel: 03-27828888. Address: No 22, Menara 8 Jalan Yap Kwan Seng, Kuala Lumpur.