A TASTE OF MACAO AT YUN HOUSE

When Michelin-starred guest chef Anthony Ho of Zi Yat Heen, Four Seasons Macao joins forces with Chef Jimmy Wong of Yun House in Kuala Lumpur, the result is more than a collaborative menu—it’s a culinary dialogue, rich in technique, memory, and homage.

 
Held from 3 to 6 July to mark Yun House’s seventh anniversary, the four-hands menu (RM668 per person) is a study in refinement. A medley of traditional flavours refracted through a modern lens, each dish is carefully composed to honour the past with whispers of the future.

Chef Ho, a son of Hong Kong steeped in two decades of experience, begins with a poetic overture: Fresh Crab Meat with Japanese Pine Needles and Caviar. 

It’s a dish of startling clarity: the delicate sweetness of crab imbued by ephemeral herbaceousness of pine needles juxtaposed against the saline pop of caviar. An ode to the purity of good produce in the confident and deft hands of Ho.

Another masterful composition is his Teochew-style Marinated Mackerel and Chilled Razor Clams, a distillation of the restrained elegance of Teochew banquets. The mackerel, cured just so, sings with refined subtlety, accented by a tiny dollop of fermented bean sauce.

 
Partnering it are slivers of delicious razor clams, served chilled with scallion oil and a glimmer of ice plant. The succulent coolness a seductive textural contrast that delights.

Veteran chef Jimmy Wong, known for his contemporary finesse, responds with an enticingly comforting dish: Braised Fish Maw in Millet Broth with Black Truffle. Simmered for six hours, the broth is deeply nourishing—savoury, complexly flavourful and edged with the aroma of truffle. Each spoonful is a revelation; the gelatinous fish maw and tiny orbs of millet speak of the chef’s time-honoured and masterful techniques.

Ho’s unforgettable Wok-fried Lobster with Dried Shallots and Macanese Black Olives is a conversation-stopper. Here, the brininess of the olives—brought in specially from Macao—mingles with the sweetness of shellfish in a lush umami crescendo.

The Stuffed Chicken Wing with Foie Gras, Abalone and Glutinous Rice is at once nostalgic and daring. Channelling the spirit of classic banquet dishes, the stuffing of foie gras melded with sticky rice adds richness, depth and a touch of indulgence. The luxurious chew of abalone elevates the mosaic of texture.

 
Dessert arrives in two thoughtful creations. First, a Chilled Pumpkin Soup with Nostoc Pearls—a soothing, lightly sweet elixir, its texture lifted by the surprising presence of nostoc, a rare cyanobacteria prized in traditional Chinese medicine. Rich in protein and Vitamin C, this anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory element casts the dessert broth in new light.

 

The final flourish: a golden and delicate Baked Egg Tart with Bird’s Nest and Saffron highlights saffron-scented custard with a topping of bird’s nest. It’s a befitting dessert exuding a sense of luxury without excess, a final flourish paying homage to a splendid set menu composed with world-class skills and a wealth of experience.

For reservations, please call Yun House, Four Seasons Hotel KL, tel: 03 2382 8602 or email: diningreservations.kualalumpur@fourseasons.com

SAJIAN ISTIMEWA AT SHANGRI-LA KUALA LUMPUR

Five chefs proffering five distinct specialities are front and centre at this year’s buka puasa dinner at Lemon Garden, Shangri-La Kuala Lumpur. Showcasing regional culinary delights and an outdoor bazaar with warung (stall) stations, the breaking of fast ritual promises to be a vibrant affair.

 

Leading the charge is Chef Muhammad Safril Abdur Rahman whose Kambing Bakar Meletup will be one of the key drawcards. 

Marinated for 24 hours with fragrant spices for that explosion of flavours (hence the term meletup), the roast lamb is finished with turmeric and coconut gravy. Savour the tender slices with biryani rice for an incomparable treat.

 

From down south comes Laksa Johor by Chef Rasyafiq Sabri. Once enjoyed only by royalty, this noodle dish uses spaghetti in place of local yellow noodles smothered in a deliciously thick mackerel-based gravy.

Topped with shredded cucumber, fresh herbs and sambal belacan, we couldn’t get enough of the punchy and savoury gravy with the spaghetti soaking up the rich, hearty flavours.

 

Another compelling must try dish is Rendang Tok Daging Tulang Rusuk by Perak-born Chef Nahar Shabuddin Ahmad. A multitude of ground spices simmered in coconut milk and toasted grated coconut ensures the meaty beef short ribs fully imbued with sublime spicy-creamy accents. We recommend pairing the rendang with chunks of ketupat palas or lemang for early pre-Raya vibes.

I was stoked to find Ikan Patin Masak Tempoyak by Chef Muhammad Hafiz Hassan. This Pahang speciality consisting of silver catfish cooked in fermented durian gravy with spices and coconut milk is not for the faint-hearted. 

If you are partial to tempoyak then this dish of firm yet tender chunks of catfish immersed in a tasty gravy with uniquely tangy and rounded sweetness will entice you back for repeat helpings.  

 

Completing the fab five line-up is Chef Fazriza Che Zainuldin’s Penang recipe of Kuih Bakar Dangai Gula Melaka. A rare, almost extinct family secret, the little oblong pieces of baked glutinous rice flour with coconut hit the spot instantly. Crispy outside yielding to soft chewy inside, the mild caramel sweetness of palm sugar makes it a winsome dessert.

 

The expansive spread also proffers a myriad of cherished Malay options such as Nasi Dagang and Nasi Kerabu, Murtabak, Roti Jala, Gulai Ayam Kampung, Manok Pansuh, Kerabu Labu, Kerabu Udang Kara Jantung Pisang and Fruit Rojak.

 

A lavish Seafood Bar with lobsters, prawns, mussels, crabs and scallops along with sashimi slices, made-to-order maki rolls, Italian pasta and pizza, Indian curries and tandoori offerings, duck confit, French cheeses, and Shangri-La’s wellness delicacies bring international appeal to the dinner affair.

Finish on a sweet high with towers of Dates, Macarons and Cream Puffs. In addition, sample tempting Kek Batik, Kek Ondeh-ondeh, Berry Pie, Kunafa, Malay Kuih, Ice Cream, Mini Entremets, Chocolate Fountain with skewers of fruits and marshmallows, and Pineapple Cake too.

Early bird bookings made until 9 March will be entitled to 15% off Lemon Garden’s Sajian Istimewa Dinner Buffet. Price: RM260 per person (Mon-Thurs, 7pm-10pm) and RM308 per person (Fri-Sun, 7pm-10pm).

For reservations, call Shangri-La’s Restaurant Reservations Centre at tel: 03-2786 2378 or email: dining.KL@shangri-la.com