Showing posts with label biryani. Show all posts
Showing posts with label biryani. Show all posts

Thursday, December 14, 2023

A REFINED TASTE OF CULTURE AT FLOUR

 

Allow spice master and culinary maestro Yogesh Upadhyay a.k.a. Chef Yogi take you on a whirlwind tour of India, culturally and gastronomically at Flour.
Throw whatever you presumably know about Indian food and let Chef Yogi change your perspective of Indian cuisine. The chef-restaurateur is redefining the food of his native land for the future in his own intrepid way, where “each and every course at Flour is a planned journey of the food feeding the body; the intention feeding the soul.”

His mind-changing, progressive French-Indian offerings are so future-forward, only adventurous and liberal diners will find his specialities acceptable.

According to Chef Yogi, “the Indian continent consists of different regions and each has its own unique flavours and ingredients. Likewise, each course in Flour’s menu is my interpretation on how Indian food has evolved whilst remaining faithful to its roots.
 
“Indian specialities are characterised by the use of spices, not chilli. You’d discover fresh narratives on the judicious and diverse use of spices here, learn about the origins of regional dishes and delve into vegetarianism which is inherent to India’s foodscape. I’m serving a taste of culture, not just food at Flour.”

Housed in a charming, white-washed bungalow in the heart of KL since 2020, Flour was initially located at Damansara Heights some seven years ago. The sleek and contemporary interior is almost monochromatic in its colour scheme, with some eye-catching artworks and a water fountain serving as key focal points.

According to the Rajasthan-born chef, “The restaurant name was inspired by flour, an essential ingredient for the making of bread. Without flour, there’d be no Indian food.”

Although Chef Yogi was roped into his father’s restaurant business in his teens, the rebel in him opted to pursue hotel management and French culinary arts. Determined to make his own mark, he relocated to Dubai and ventured into the aviation industry.

In 2014 Yogi came to Malaysia, to work for Air Asia X. He met and married his wife who then encouraged him to open Flour. “She said my culinary efforts changed her perception of Indian food and I should showcase my skills to a broader audience.”

Chef Yogi said “Flour brings the future of Indian cuisine to the present, based on my knowledge and research on the past, using modern French techniques and thoughtfully composed degustation-style menus.”

The chef will personally share interesting facts on the historical aspects and origins of the food served, with every element down to the smallest details meticulously planned. “I’m the guide on the culinary journey; to help diners gain greater understanding of Indian cuisine. Dining here is more than just an experience; it’s a taste of culture.”

From the a la carte menu, the stellar opening of smoky Quail Tikka (RM35++) left us spellbound. Spiced curd-marinated quails were tandoor-roasted to perfection, rendering the quail tender and juicy down to the bone. A side dip of housemade curd dotted with tamarind lent a lush, appetising dimension.

“Quail and game birds are native to India; in the old days, people used to forage for them as the native protein source” said Chef Yogi. “The secret lies in mustard seed oil, to give the quail deep-seated flavour and incomparable aroma.”


Unsurprisingly, his adroit skills shone through in the Vegetable Charcoal Roast (RM38++). Banking on a useful tip gleaned from the Persians, he infused rose water into the saucy base of housemade curd and bird’s eye chilli oil, letting it bring the inherent vegetal-fruitiness of the roasted baby eggplants, capsicum, and cherry tomatoes to full bloom onto our palate.

Italian Marzano tomatoes formed the backbone to Flour’s legendary Butter Chicken, listed as Spring Chicken & Tomato (RM68++) in the menu. Lightly spiced with green cardamom powder and fenugreek leaves, Chef Yogi had cooked those tomatoes to such velvety consistency, it seemed like he had unleashed a burst of brilliant sunshine onto our tastebuds, through the vermillion sauce.

Dousing that sumptuous sauce onto Jeera Rice (RM18++) then savouring the cumin-speckled rice, as we picked the bones clean off those deliciously tender chunks of spring chicken tikka, was heavenly.
How could we not lick the plate clean when the stellar dish of Konju Moilee appeared. Every exquisite bite of the charcoal-grilled prawns in mustard seed-accented coconut milk sauce and bird’s eye chilli oil knocked our socks off.
Also jostling for our attention and tummy space was Ajwaini Baingan (RM55++), cute roasted baby eggplants in a robust sauce of onion, tomato with ajwain and thyme.
 
We couldn’t help but soak up that bright, tantalising sauce with freshly made Laccha (RM15++), thin, multi-layered wholewheat bread which the chef referred to as the croissant of India.
For textural contrast, we returned to sample those irresistible dishes again with pieces of feather-light Puri (RM15++), fried wholewheat bread with semolina, with equally agreeable results.
Served with basil curd, crisp-fried shallot graced the bowl of Mutton Biryani (RM90++); a show-stopping speciality that could have easily left us replete on its own. Cubes of meltingly tender mutton embedded within the saffron-scented basmati rice, proved second-to-none in the taste department.

Wrapping up our lavish cultural passage to India came Kubhanika Meetha (RM35++), a dainty white apricot tart which the chef told us to eat in one bite. Its ephemeral sweetness was a most befitting masterstroke to conclude our insightful discovery of Indian culture through Flour’s refined repertoire.
For reservations at FLOUR, tel: 03-4065 7400, 012-9600 053. Address: No.12 & 14, Jalan Kamuning, Off Jalan Imbi, Kuala Lumpur.

 

Saturday, May 04, 2019

BAZAAR JALAN KERINCHI AT CAPRI BY FRASER KUALA LUMPUR


With Kampung Kerinchi right at its doorstep, it’s savvy of Capri by Fraser Kuala Lumpur to capitalise on the idea of conjuring up a lively bazaar atmosphere for the upcoming buka puasa period.
 
Billed as Bazaar Jalan Kerinchi, the hotel’s Caprilicious restaurant will showcase over 120 mouth-watering specialities, based on five rotational menus. Located right in the heart of Bangsar South City, Capri by Fraser Kuala Lumpur should be a convenient buka puasa outpost for residents and the working crowd in that area.
Decked up with the requisite Hari Raya decor, the high ceiling and spacious Caprilicious has ample room for a buffet line, hot and cold drinks, dining space and a shaded patio where ten cooking stalls will be serving up hawker-style fare during Ramadan.

 
Right off the bat, the Mee Mamak was on-point — the noodles had a nice smoky aftertaste with the faint zing of chilli heat. Also up my alley was Ikan Bakar — the assorted fish like stingray and kembung rubbed with turmeric and ground spices, and wrapped in banana leaves for grilling emerged with perfect doneness.
 
As expected, the stall proffering Satay with complementing condiments proved to be a perennial crowd fave. Well-marinated, the skewers of chicken and beef held their own, with or without peanut sauce.
 
Rice lovers should make a beeline for the aromatic and spice-laden Nasi Biryani. Pair it with some Fried Chicken for greater taste satisfaction. A whole Roast Lamb in addition to Burger, Murtabak, Roti Canai, Ais Kacang and Cendol form the remaining stall offerings.
Senior Sous Chef Fikri Fauze recommends Ikan Patin Masak Tempoyak but this acquired Pahang speciality isn’t for the faint-hearted. Cooked with fermented durian, the yellow fish curry hit the spot for me as I’m an avid fan of the ripe, pungent gravy.
 
 
My top picks from the extensive cornucopia include Pucuk Paku Tumis Sambal (fern shoots with ground sambal), Sambal Taucu, Telur Dadar (omelette with chilli), Gulai Tulang Rusuk Kambing Nangka Muda (rich young jackfruit and lamb ribs curry), and Ayam Percik Panggang (roast chicken basted with spicy sauce).
 
 
 
 
Dessert ran the usual gamut from dainty Kuih Bahulu cakes to Fruit Rojak. Assorted fritters such as Goreng Pisang, Goreng Keledek and Keropok Lekor as well as Malay kuih and tropical fresh fruits are laid out to wrap up the meal.
 
 
 
Early Bird vouchers at RM98 nett each are still available until 5 May. The regular price for the Buka Puasa dinner is RM128 nett per adult while senior citizens get 50% off the normal price. Children 5-12 years old will be charged at RM48 nett child.
 
A special Bazaar Jalan Kerinchi dine and stay package is available at RM390+ per night, applicable from 8 May to 1 June 2019. Perks include:
·         daily buffet breakfast or pre-dawn meal
·         Bazaar Jalan Kerinchi buffet dinner for 2 adults and 2 children below 4 years old at Caprilicious
·         Complimentary parking for 1 car
·         Complimentary in-room internet/Wifi access


For reservations at Caprilicious, call tel: 03-2386 0891. Room reservations can be made via tel: 03-2383 0888. Address: Capri by Fraser Kuala Lumpur, No.5, Jalan Kerinchi, Bangsar South City, Kuala Lumpur. Website: www.capribyfraser.com


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