CHEF KAZUO TAKIZAWA’S NEW GRAND MENU AT ZIPANGU

 

Chef Kazuo Takizawa’s new Grand Menu at Zipangu reads like a love letter to the seasons of Japan, gently kissed with the flavours of Malaysia.

Thoughtfully composed like a haiku, the meal begins with a whisper — a cool, textured tumble of Salmon and Avocado, slick with salted kelp and wasabi soy sauce. It arrives atop a crisp rice cracker lined with fried nori, a poetic symphony of flavour and crunch.

The richness of salmon gives way to the clean zingy note of wasabi, while the umaminess of kelp hums softly in the background like a distant tide. It’s the kind of dish that makes you pause between bites, out of reverence.

Then comes a heartwarming bowl of Chicken and Vegetable Miso Soup that feels like slipping into a cherished coat in the heart of winter. The broth is gentle, faintly smoky. The chicken—salt-marinated, grilled, then eased into the miso—lends depth whilst young corn, lotus root, and shimeji mushrooms tumble through the comforting broth. Takizawa-san calls it “home-style” and it resonates with us.

 

Spicy Salmon Zanmai Roll arrives next, lush with layer upon layer of salmon: raw, cooked, and jewelled with pearly roe. Cucumber, surimi and egg make this sushi roll indulgent without being boastful, the touch of sriracha leaving a gentle glow rather than a blaze. A sip of cold Junmai Daiginjo sake draws the flavours together—clean and fleeting.

The signature mains emerge as a quartet of restrained brilliance. There is the familiar Black Cod Teriyaki and Japanese White Radish yet the fried cod, a nod to Malaysian tastes, holds greater allure thanks to the daikon steeped in Takizawa’s own blend of dashi and teriyaki sauce. A dish updated for its audience without compromising its heritage.

The Grilled Bluefin Tuna Collar is a study in devotion and sustainability. Sourced from a humongous 80kg fish, the collar—often overlooked—is treated with the kind of care and respect reserve for something sacred. 

Marinated in sake, doubanjiang (spicy bean sauce), ginger and secret herbs, then grilled, the rich and meaty tuna collar flesh tastes faintly of the ocean’s depths: hints of minerality mingled with whispers of oyster and brine, soothed by the gentle sweetness of capsicum in a lush, complex sauce.

For me, the conversation-stopper has to be the A5 Japanese Halal Omi Wagyu Tenderloin. Cooked simply, perfectly with a dash of salt—seared until just charred outside, but pink and yielding within.

 
Each bite is warm velvet. On the side, there are fried garlic chips, mustard, wasabi, and a Japanese steak sauce—unnecessary but delightful if variation is called for. Grilled vegetables lend a gentle counterpoint. This is the kind of breath-taking dish that leaves you in awed silence at such masterful culinary perfection.

 
Finally, the crescendo of heat: a Spicy Chicken Curry unlike any you’ll find in Japan. It has swagger, warmth that builds and lingers. Takizawa uses a 30-year-old recipe, refined and reworked with Malaysian heat. The chicken, braised with leek, is tender; the spices—paprika, ginger, garlic—meld into a bold, unapologetic chorus.

Sweetness to soften the ending is Yuzu Sorbet. Icy and fragrant, the yuzu sings—sharp, floral, clean with a kind of silken poise renders by a sticky, almost translucent starch syrup woven through it for unexpected elegance.

In the hands of Chef Kazuo Takizawa, every plate from Zipangu’s Grand Menu tells a story—seasonal and soulful. Each creation soothes as much as it stirs.

For reservations at Zipangu, call tel: 03-2032 2388. Address: Level 1, Shangri-La Kuala Lumpur, Jalan Sultan Ismail, KL. https://www.facebook.com/shangrilaKL
 
 

R-EEL DELIGHTS AT TIEN

 
Export-grade live eels from China took centrestage at Tien restaurant, prepared in four different ways as part of the month-long ‘Flavours of Suria’ dining experiences at Suria KLCC mall recently.

In keeping with its "Always Something New” tagline, Suria KLCC invited local media members to hands-on workshops and exclusive tastings at tenant restaurants: Din, Fuel Shack, Cili Kampung, TGI Fridays, Imperial Chakri Palace and Tien.

We sampled a special seasonal menu of fresh Chinese eels at Tien by Putien, where four distinctive eel dishes were served. Flown-in from Guangzhou, we learned the eels are also exported to Japan. 

Fed with codfish powder, the eels are raised in open-air, clean water ponds. Putien uses 70 cm long eels weighing 600-800g each as they are fleshier with better bite. It’s the second year Tien is promoting these eels and the promotional offerings will be available until end October.

Our lunch began with Fresh Eel Cooked in Spring Water. It only took about ten minutes to cook the eel in spring water with spring onion, goji berries and ginger. Once done, we tasted the eel chunks which were surprisingly chewy. Its natural clear sweetness was notable when we tasted the broth and meat.

Rich, savoury soybean sauce produced in the city of Puning was instrumental in the preparation of Baked Eel with Puning Bean Sauce. Stir-fried with garlic, ginger and onion, the delicately sweet eel chunks were superbly flavourful thanks to the beany sauce and aromatics. Not surprising it was the most popular dish last year with Tien diners.

Although the generous amount of garlic was welcomed, a lesser amount of Yangjiang soybean sauce for the Steamed Eel in Garlic and Soy Bean Sauce would have been great. But that’s my own preference as others may like how the chef prepped it.

Sichuan peppercorns, dried chillies, garlic and ginger bestowed this year’s new Spicy Pan-fried Eel with some tongue-tingling ‘ma la’ power and spicy heat. This was another crowd favourite as most of us enjoyed the dish’s robust chilli-hotness.

All the eel dishes are priced at RM138 for a regular portion and will be available until end October.

For reservations at Tien by Putien, call tel: 03 2181 2839. Address: Lot 434, 4^th Floor, Suria KLCC, Kuala Lumpur City Centre. For more information on Suria KLCC mall, visit www.suriaklcc.com.my or www.facebook.com/SuriaKLCCMall. 

GIFU SPECIALITIES TAKE CENTRESTAGE AT KAMPACHI

Ayu fish and Hida beef from Gifu Prefecture will take centre stage at Kampachi restaurant, EQ Kuala Lumpur from 17 – 23 July.

At a special dinner graced by Gifu Prefecture Governor, Hajime Furuta (2nd from left) and Ambassador of Japan to Malaysia, His Excellency Katsuhiko Takahashi (2nd from right), we were treated to Gifu’s native produce: Kikurage mushroom, Shungiku (chrysanthemum greens), and Gohei-mochi complemented by a selection of sake such as Tamakashiwa (award-winning Junmai Daiginjo with well-balanced, muted melon sweetness and fresh acidity) and Hyakujuro Akazura (smooth, super dry Junmaisyu with rich aroma reminiscent of cooked rice).

Located between Tokyo and Kyoto, Gifu Prefecture is a haven of natural beauty, nestled amidst the breathtaking Japanese mountain range. Its pristine rivers and lush forests, fresh environment and sustainability practices make Gifu known for its exceptional agricultural produce.

Furuta said: "Gifu is blessed with abundant agricultural products, and we are thrilled to promote them beyond Japan. We are committed to sustainable farming practices and preserving the unique landscape of Gifu."

Furuta then presented Kampachi with the ‘Recommended Overseas Gifu Ayu Restaurant’ certification by the Globally Important Agricultural Heritage System (GIAHS) and ‘Ayu of the Nagara River System’ Promotion Association; making the restaurant the first in Malaysia and second in the world to receive the honour.

Guests were then treated to a sumptuous dinner of Ayu fish and Hida beef prepared by Kampachi Japanese chef Yusuke Ishigami. Also known as sweet fish, Ayu can only be found in the purest and cleanest waters especially in Gifu’s Nagara River.

Cherished by the local community for centuries, the river also helps to give rise to and nurtures traditional "Cormorant Fishing" with 1,300 years of history; and "Hon Mino washi paper", handmade Japanese paper registered as a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage.

Raised in several facilities in Gifu Prefecture using clean, natural spring water under strict hygiene and temperature control, sustainably farmed Ayu fish is now available year-long.

Fine, tender with beautiful marbling, Hida Beef’s melt-in-the-mouth texture, and rich aroma and taste gained widespread recognition when Hidagyu achieved top honours at the 8th All-Japan National Wagyu Cattle Expo in 2002, held in Gifu Prefecture. Its continued success at various Beef Cattle Expo in 2012, 2013 and 2015 has made Hida Beef highly sought-after by discerning food lovers.

Our Gifu dinner commenced with Ayu Kanroni, simmered sweet fish in sweet soy sauce. The surprisingly firm albeit boney fish had fine flesh; its stomach was roe-filled. I like how the caramel-like shoyu that enhanced the fish’s natural sweetness.

The raw slices of Hida Gyu Carpaccio gave my jaw quite a workout. Luckily, the pleasant meaty richness accompanied by fresh greens and baby tomatoes made sampling the beef a distinct experience.

Sweet memories of my sojourn to Takayama returned when I sampled Ayu Shioyaki, grilled sweet fish with salt. We learned how to debone the fish by flattening the curvy Ayu with our chopsticks then gently pulling the tail to dislodge the whole vertebrate. The flesh was delicious and sweet, accented by a hint of salt.

True to all the key characteristics preceding it, the Hida Gyu Misoyaki – Hida beef with homemade miso didn’t disappoint. Served medium rare, the thickish beef slices tasted almost buttery on the palate. We love how the savoury miso with an imperceptible tinge of heat added a tantalising dimension to the meat.

For the speciality of Ayu Gohan (rice with sweet fish), the chef grilled the fishes separately then deboned and filleted them. The fish bones are used to make fish stock to cook the rice. To serve, the fish fillets are placed atop the cooked rice for presentation before everything was mixed together. While the rice tasted acceptable, the fish was too broken up to make its presence felt.

We enjoyed every drop of the Nameko Misoshiru, a soulfully satisfying miso soup with nameko mushroom. These small, amber-brown mushroom with a slippery gelatinous coating along with kelp added textural interest to the yummy broth. 

Dinner wrapped up with Gohei Mochi, a speciality of Central Japan, the skewered flat rice cake with sweet miso apparently is shaped like waraji (a traditional sandal). The soft rice cake texture reminded me of our ketupat; the miso paste with a sprinkling of coloured sesame seeds on it was more salty than sweet. The generous coating was a tad overwhelming on our tastebuds but it slowly grew on us the more we nibbled on it.

For me, the dinner was a memorable throwback to my trip to Takayama. Should you wish to embark on the culinary tour of Gifu, the menu of Gifu's bounties starts from RM60.

Advance reservation is required – for reservations at Kampachi, email: kampachi@equatorial.com or visit: https://linktr.ee/KampachiOfficial