R-EEL DELIGHTS AT TIEN

 
Export-grade live eels from China took centrestage at Tien restaurant, prepared in four different ways as part of the month-long ‘Flavours of Suria’ dining experiences at Suria KLCC mall recently.

In keeping with its "Always Something New” tagline, Suria KLCC invited local media members to hands-on workshops and exclusive tastings at tenant restaurants: Din, Fuel Shack, Cili Kampung, TGI Fridays, Imperial Chakri Palace and Tien.

We sampled a special seasonal menu of fresh Chinese eels at Tien by Putien, where four distinctive eel dishes were served. Flown-in from Guangzhou, we learned the eels are also exported to Japan. 

Fed with codfish powder, the eels are raised in open-air, clean water ponds. Putien uses 70 cm long eels weighing 600-800g each as they are fleshier with better bite. It’s the second year Tien is promoting these eels and the promotional offerings will be available until end October.

Our lunch began with Fresh Eel Cooked in Spring Water. It only took about ten minutes to cook the eel in spring water with spring onion, goji berries and ginger. Once done, we tasted the eel chunks which were surprisingly chewy. Its natural clear sweetness was notable when we tasted the broth and meat.

Rich, savoury soybean sauce produced in the city of Puning was instrumental in the preparation of Baked Eel with Puning Bean Sauce. Stir-fried with garlic, ginger and onion, the delicately sweet eel chunks were superbly flavourful thanks to the beany sauce and aromatics. Not surprising it was the most popular dish last year with Tien diners.

Although the generous amount of garlic was welcomed, a lesser amount of Yangjiang soybean sauce for the Steamed Eel in Garlic and Soy Bean Sauce would have been great. But that’s my own preference as others may like how the chef prepped it.

Sichuan peppercorns, dried chillies, garlic and ginger bestowed this year’s new Spicy Pan-fried Eel with some tongue-tingling ‘ma la’ power and spicy heat. This was another crowd favourite as most of us enjoyed the dish’s robust chilli-hotness.

All the eel dishes are priced at RM138 for a regular portion and will be available until end October.

For reservations at Tien by Putien, call tel: 03 2181 2839. Address: Lot 434, 4^th Floor, Suria KLCC, Kuala Lumpur City Centre. For more information on Suria KLCC mall, visit www.suriaklcc.com.my or www.facebook.com/SuriaKLCCMall. 

GIFU SPECIALITIES TAKE CENTRESTAGE AT KAMPACHI

Ayu fish and Hida beef from Gifu Prefecture will take centre stage at Kampachi restaurant, EQ Kuala Lumpur from 17 – 23 July.

At a special dinner graced by Gifu Prefecture Governor, Hajime Furuta (2nd from left) and Ambassador of Japan to Malaysia, His Excellency Katsuhiko Takahashi (2nd from right), we were treated to Gifu’s native produce: Kikurage mushroom, Shungiku (chrysanthemum greens), and Gohei-mochi complemented by a selection of sake such as Tamakashiwa (award-winning Junmai Daiginjo with well-balanced, muted melon sweetness and fresh acidity) and Hyakujuro Akazura (smooth, super dry Junmaisyu with rich aroma reminiscent of cooked rice).

Located between Tokyo and Kyoto, Gifu Prefecture is a haven of natural beauty, nestled amidst the breathtaking Japanese mountain range. Its pristine rivers and lush forests, fresh environment and sustainability practices make Gifu known for its exceptional agricultural produce.

Furuta said: "Gifu is blessed with abundant agricultural products, and we are thrilled to promote them beyond Japan. We are committed to sustainable farming practices and preserving the unique landscape of Gifu."

Furuta then presented Kampachi with the ‘Recommended Overseas Gifu Ayu Restaurant’ certification by the Globally Important Agricultural Heritage System (GIAHS) and ‘Ayu of the Nagara River System’ Promotion Association; making the restaurant the first in Malaysia and second in the world to receive the honour.

Guests were then treated to a sumptuous dinner of Ayu fish and Hida beef prepared by Kampachi Japanese chef Yusuke Ishigami. Also known as sweet fish, Ayu can only be found in the purest and cleanest waters especially in Gifu’s Nagara River.

Cherished by the local community for centuries, the river also helps to give rise to and nurtures traditional "Cormorant Fishing" with 1,300 years of history; and "Hon Mino washi paper", handmade Japanese paper registered as a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage.

Raised in several facilities in Gifu Prefecture using clean, natural spring water under strict hygiene and temperature control, sustainably farmed Ayu fish is now available year-long.

Fine, tender with beautiful marbling, Hida Beef’s melt-in-the-mouth texture, and rich aroma and taste gained widespread recognition when Hidagyu achieved top honours at the 8th All-Japan National Wagyu Cattle Expo in 2002, held in Gifu Prefecture. Its continued success at various Beef Cattle Expo in 2012, 2013 and 2015 has made Hida Beef highly sought-after by discerning food lovers.

Our Gifu dinner commenced with Ayu Kanroni, simmered sweet fish in sweet soy sauce. The surprisingly firm albeit boney fish had fine flesh; its stomach was roe-filled. I like how the caramel-like shoyu that enhanced the fish’s natural sweetness.

The raw slices of Hida Gyu Carpaccio gave my jaw quite a workout. Luckily, the pleasant meaty richness accompanied by fresh greens and baby tomatoes made sampling the beef a distinct experience.

Sweet memories of my sojourn to Takayama returned when I sampled Ayu Shioyaki, grilled sweet fish with salt. We learned how to debone the fish by flattening the curvy Ayu with our chopsticks then gently pulling the tail to dislodge the whole vertebrate. The flesh was delicious and sweet, accented by a hint of salt.

True to all the key characteristics preceding it, the Hida Gyu Misoyaki – Hida beef with homemade miso didn’t disappoint. Served medium rare, the thickish beef slices tasted almost buttery on the palate. We love how the savoury miso with an imperceptible tinge of heat added a tantalising dimension to the meat.

For the speciality of Ayu Gohan (rice with sweet fish), the chef grilled the fishes separately then deboned and filleted them. The fish bones are used to make fish stock to cook the rice. To serve, the fish fillets are placed atop the cooked rice for presentation before everything was mixed together. While the rice tasted acceptable, the fish was too broken up to make its presence felt.

We enjoyed every drop of the Nameko Misoshiru, a soulfully satisfying miso soup with nameko mushroom. These small, amber-brown mushroom with a slippery gelatinous coating along with kelp added textural interest to the yummy broth. 

Dinner wrapped up with Gohei Mochi, a speciality of Central Japan, the skewered flat rice cake with sweet miso apparently is shaped like waraji (a traditional sandal). The soft rice cake texture reminded me of our ketupat; the miso paste with a sprinkling of coloured sesame seeds on it was more salty than sweet. The generous coating was a tad overwhelming on our tastebuds but it slowly grew on us the more we nibbled on it.

For me, the dinner was a memorable throwback to my trip to Takayama. Should you wish to embark on the culinary tour of Gifu, the menu of Gifu's bounties starts from RM60.

Advance reservation is required – for reservations at Kampachi, email: kampachi@equatorial.com or visit: https://linktr.ee/KampachiOfficial

 

‘TUAN YUAN’ THIS CHINESE NEW YEAR AT LE MERIDIEN PUTRAJAYA

The savouriness of mentaiko (salted mullet roe) lends a distinctive dimension to the Yee Sang at Le Mei Restaurant this year. Together with sliced salmon, assorted crispy treasures and blackcurrant-plum dressing, this refreshing salad adds great cheer to our preview of Le Meridien Putrajaya’s Tuan Yuan celebration menus with a bang.

Available from 8 January to 5 February 2023, Chef Lim Kian Meng and his team deftly tickle our tastebuds with the inventive Mentaiko and Salmon Yee Sang. Other variants will include Salmon and Crispy Noodle Yee Sang, Four Seasons Prosperity Yee Sang, and Whole Abalone Yee Sang during the celebratory period.

Warming up hearts and minds is a salubrious Double Boiled Silkie Fowl Soup with Abalone, Porcini Mushroom and Dried Scallops. 

Sweet and clear, the wholesome broth includes red dates and wai san (Chinese yam) in addition to the premium and nutritious ingredients mentioned.

Synonymous with laughter and happiness, prawns are much favoured during Chinese New Year. Lightly covered in a creamy sauce, the springy tenderness of the Poached River Prawns with Cheese and Roasted Garlic in Superior Broth will leave you smiling from ear to ear once you sample this delicious speciality.

Juicy, plump and succulent, the Hong Kong Style Poached Free-range Chicken with Sand Ginger looks set to rule the roost among CNY celebrants. 

The marble-smooth skin coupled with the juicy meat – enhanced with the warm spiciness of the coarsely chopped sand ginger topping – is something to crow about.

To ensure more prosperity and good fortune for the Year of the Rabbit, feast on the ubiquitous and much cherished Braised Sea Cucumber with Dried Oysters and Fatt Choy in Oyster Sauce. 

Blanched broccoli florets are perfect for soaking up the glossy sauce brimming with deep-seated musky, shellfish flavours. A myriad of textural contrasts converges amidst the tumult of key ingredients: the sea cucumber’s slippery sponginess, the soft crumbliness of dried oysters, and the slick fine threads of sea moss.

A wedge of sautéed foie gras lends a touch of luxury to the penultimate dish of Fried Organic Brown Rice with Sakura Shrimp, Seafood and Foie Gras. The richness of the liver melds nicely with the nutty brown rice and amplifies the delicate seafood sweetness.

Somehow you will find room to fit in the serving of Double Boiled Snow Fungus with Honey Locust Fruit and Peach Resin. As sweet dessert broths go, it’s mildly sweet with the different ingredients added to stimulate greater mouth feel. Crispy Sesame Balls and Pandan Glutinous Rice Cakes round off the celebratory dinner on a cheery note.

The Chinese New Year Dinner will be held on 21^st and 22^nd January 2022, at RM188nett (adult) and RM94nett (child), while the Chinese New Year Brunch will be held on 22^nd and 23^rd   January 2023, at RM168nett (adult) and RM84nett (child).

Set menus are priced from RM1,440 nett per table of 5 diners (inclusive of a bottle of wine) and RM2,588 nett per table of 10 (inclusive of a bottle of Martell).

For more information or to place your order, please call Le Mei Restaurant, tel: 03-8689 6888 ext. 6868 or email:  dining.lmputrajaya@lemeridien.com