MALAY FLAVOURS LEND SHINE AT MADAM LEE

Chef de Cuisine Rizal Sobry has joined hands with Executive Chef Irwan Sutan Chairul to extend the Peranakan palette at Madam Lee Nyonya Private Dining — incorporating timeless Malay recipes with depth, fire and fragrance intact.

The introduction of Malay culinary classics feels more like a homecoming, bringing quiet comfort to the menu. Nestled amidst the grounds of Palm Garden Hotel Putrajaya, the restaurant's recessed shelves decked with Peranakan ceramics segue to a soaring high ceiling space and a grand staircase leading to an airy dining space.

Warm and welcoming, we dip and sip on Singgang Seafood Soup (RM30), a coconut milk-based broth cradling prawns, squid, clams, fish and tender vegetables. Modest in appearance but rich in spirit, the creamy and subtly tangy soup leans in with whispers of lemongrass and sweet brine of the sea.

 

Pie Tie (RM28), those crisp little top hats of jicama, mushroom, egg and prawn; Loh Bak (RM25), deep-fried beancurd sheet rolls of meat, vegetables and spices; and Otak-otak (RM25), spiced fish mousse served chilled are ubiquitous mainstays to tickle the tastebuds.

Soft and yielding smoked beef in a golden pool of turmeric and coconut milk—thick, perfumed and almost pastoral in its richness makes the Daging Salai Masak Lemak (RM48) notable. You taste the smokiness first, then the heat of chilli and spices followed by the grassy-citrusy scent of turmeric leaf. It clings to the beef, then lingers long after you’ve set your spoon down.

If that was a murmur, the Paru Sambal Cili Api (RM45) was a roar. Slightly chewy beef lung slices, swimming in a biting-hot bird’s eye chilli sambal, is not a dish for the faint-hearted. But die-hard fans will love it for its fierce honesty.

Take the edge off with Ikan Masak Kicap (RM58), trad fried red snapper doused in a bewitchingly dark sweet-savoury soy glaze. You’d delight in the mellow, gently spiced sauce; sweet at the edges—perfect to go with plain white rice.

 
More amicable options, easy on the tastebuds include golden-skinned Ayam Goreng Berempah (RM32), its spice coating adding appeal to the chook; Chap Chye (RM28), the homey mixed vegetable milieu that tastes like something your Nyonya grandmother might dish up; and a robust, deeply comforting Nyonya Fried Rice.

 
Dessert is whimsical and tropical—Sago Cha Cha with Taro Ice Cream (RM18), creamy and cool on the tongue; and rich yet sticky Pineapple Pulut Hitam Crème Brûlée (RM26), with just the right crackle of burnt sugar on top.

 

At Madam Lee, the spices may flare, the sauces may cling, but there’s always grace in the telling and old flavours bloom anew.
 
For reservations, call Madam Lee Nyonya Private Dining, tel:03-8943 2233 or visit https://www.madamleenyonya.com/
Address: Palm Garden Hotel, Putrajaya, IOI Resort City, Putrajaya

SUSTAINABLE FINE-DINING AWAITS AT EQ'S SABAYON X JAMPA DINNER

A four-hands, one-night only dinner partnering Sabayon’s Chef de Cuisine, Steve Ariffin at EQ with JAMPA’s Executive Chef, Rick Dingen from Phuket will be held on 26 April.
 
Billed as a sustainable seven-course menu (RM650 nett per person), the dinner will showcase T’lur – Malaysia’s own local caviar, the vaunted Harumanis mango and exotic ingredient like bael, known as the Bengal quince or wood apple.

The two culinary creatives hope to reframe diners’ perceptions of value, creativity and promote the advantages of sourcing and using local ingredients.
 
Chef and Netherlands native Dingen has chalked up stints at Michelin-starred Dutch restaurants: La Rive and De Heer Kocken. Dingen’s Chef de Cuisine phase at celebrated Bangkok restaurant Savelberg saw the restaurant awarded a Michelin star.
 
He then proceeded to the one Michelin starred and Michelin Green Star Haoma which espoused sustainable, seasonal, local ingredients sourced from farmers, breeders, fisherfolk and the restaurant’s own garden. A subsequent stint at Madison Steak Avenue, Anantara Bangkok prepared him for JAMPA in Phuket.
 
At this one-of-a-kind dining destination, Dingen assimilated his fine dining restaurant experience with the use of local produce and woodfire cooking skills, elevating JAMPA’s fame throughout Thailand where live-fire cooking and sustainable gastronomy result in sophisticated dishes that celebrate the ever-changing seasons of nature. JAMPA also owns an organic farm, reducing their environmental impact while enabling the culinary team to showcase the best from the land and sea.
 

Back on homeground, Chef Steve Ariffin’s three-year tenure at Sabayon has cemented his reputation as a technical innovator. Conceiving and curating menus for some of Malaysia’s most influential personalities, historic wineries and gastronomes, Chef Steve Ariffin will work hand-in-hand with JAMPA’s Dingen, bringing the exclusive dinner to stellar heights.

For reservations, please contact EQ Kuala Lumpur:

https://www.eqkualalumpur.equatorial.com/guest-chefs/

A STELLAR CNY FEAST AT YUN HOUSE

 

Hong Kong-born Chef Jimmy Wong beguiles with a stellar array of exquisite specialities, merging cherished traditions with Four Seasons flair to welcome the Snake Year at the Michelin-selected Yun House.

At an exclusive preview hosted by the indefatigable Dato’ Rosemarie Wee (left), Chef Jimmy Wong’s epicurean Lunar New Year delights befittingly took front and centre that day.

 

A simple yet tantalising amuse bouche of Marinated Wood Ear Fungus with Onion, Coriander and Chilli Oil proffered a promising hint of other goodies to come.

 

Yee Sang, one of the most anticipated yearly offerings at Yun House, captivated us from the get-go. Once the concerted lou hei session was dispensed with, we relished the Locally Sourced Mantis Prawns with Lily Bulb Yee Sang with gusto.

 

With natural and specially selected ingredients such as deep-fried salmon skin, fresh lily bulbs, candied walnuts, pickled shallots, crispy strands of fried rice vermicelli and house-made plum sauce among others, the overall consensus was the Yee Sang is second to none. You can even luxe it up further with freshly shaved black truffle before the salad tossing.

IMO, there isn’t adequate superlatives to describe the show-stopping Imperial Fish Maw Broth with Royal Orchid and Sun-dried Scallops. Imagine it took 8 hours alone just to prep the base stock.

Soulfully rich and slightly sticky with a gelatinous finish, the precious soup laden with little yellow orchids, top shell, mini cabbage, fish maw, bamboo pith and goji berries knocked our socks off.

Chopped Sichuan chilli, garlic and spring onion atop Steamed Giant Soon Hock then left a trailblazing impression on our palate. We enjoy how the mildly briny and piquant chilli and garlic accentuated the fish’s natural sweetness. Also included was a disc of soft tofu, augmenting this fish’s delicate texture.

 

Crowned with a seared whole Hokkaido scallop, the fluffy Wok-fried Glutinous Rice studded with chopped mushrooms, dried scallops and roasted peanuts also knocked this speciality out of the park.

The finale was no less dazzling with a sumptuous serving of Bird’s Nest with Coral Seaweed Jelly, Pear and Ginseng taking the limelight. It made a sublime pairing with Deep-fried Rice Cake with Yam and Sweet Potato.

These classical delicacies reimagined with luxurious ingredients and bold touches by Chef Wong and his team are featured in five signature menus priced between RM328 and RM1,288 person (min 4 persons per menu), available from 6 January to 12 February.

Reservations are highly recommended at Yun House. Kindly contact Four Seasons Hotel Kuala Lumpur, tel: 03 2382 8602 or email: diningreservations.kualalumpur@fourseasons.com

 

SSSSPECIAL CNY OFFERINGS AT SHANGRI-LA KL

Auspicious Yee Sang primed up with 2-head abalone, Hokkaido scallops, poached lobster, and Scottish smoked salmon will elevate your Chinese New Year celebration. We had first dibs of this fab opening salvo for the 9-course Immense Wealth Set Menu at Shang Palace recently.

 

Hints of kaffir lime leaves emerged as we sampled the luxurious combo of premium ingredients embodying opulence, vitality, joy, and unity.

Warming up the celebratory meal further is Double Boiled Chicken Soup with Chinese Herbs, Fish Maw and Red Dates. Redolent with savoury-sweet marine flavours and subtle aroma of Chinese herbs, the nutritious soup bears testament to the painstaking care put in by Executive Sous Chef Chew Tai Beh (left) and his culinary team.

Abundance is assured when you savour Steamed Soon Hock with Crystal Noodles, Tangerine Peel and Black Bean Sauce. This year, the fish is locally sourced in line with Shangri-La’s environmental, social, and corporate governance (ESG) efforts.

The notable use of crystal noodles is a masterstroke as the slippery strands absorb the fish’s delicate sweetness nicely. Also noteworthy is the sumptuous sauce nuanced with aged tangerine peel and black beans, dialling up the dish’s overall deliciousness.

Easing the way for fortune and prosperity is a sumptuous platter of Braised 6-head Abalone with Sea Moss and Sun-dried Oysters. Brimming with alluring umami richness, we reckon you’d enjoy the varied textural delights of this classic speciality.
 

Tender with an irresistible mouthfeel, the chicken coupled with the slightly crunchy black fungus in the Simmered Locally Sourced Yellow Chicken in Ginger-infused Sauce with Black Fungus proved to be another stellar offering. We find the punchy sauce superbly addictive, with delicate goji berries' sweetness coming through.

Wine lovers may wish to sample Clarendelle Bordeaux 2017, a ruby-red wine with vibrant fruity aroma and notes of blackcurrant and cherries on the palate. The wine label even features the Shangri-La logo thanks to a collab between the Hotel and Domaine Clarence Dillon. It’s a well-structured wine with smooth tannins, noticeable minerality and a wonderfully long finish.

Sichuan influences are the rage among Chinese chefs currently. This is  reflected in the Sauteed King Prawns and Asparagus in Golden Yam Ring; the burst of zingy-heat when we bit into the prawns is unmistakable.

A generous sprinkling of Sakura Prawns topped the Organic White and Red Rice with Minced Seafood. The crunchy-crisp crustaceans add splendid contrast and depth of flavour to the nutty rice grains mixed with bits of seafood.
 

Concluding the special menu is Sweetened Broth of Snow Fungus with Six Flavoured Glutinous Rice Dumplings. Complementing the dessert broth are delightful Deep-fried Crispy Rice Paper Wrapped Nian Gao with Yam and Sweet Potato, and a piece of Steamed Trehalose (a type of naturally and commercially produced sugar used as sweetener) and Coconut Nian Gao.

Available from 6 January to 12 February 2025, Shang Palace’s Chinese New Year promotion feature special Yee Sang creations (from RM148 nett upwards), classic Chinese delicacies, and festive set menus (from RM228 nett per person), crafted for family, friends, or business celebrations. Also available will be simplified à la carte and Dim Sum menus  from 29 to 31 January 2025.

For dining reservations and inquiries, contact Shang Palace, Shangri-La Kuala Lumpur, tel: 03 2032 2388 or email: enquiries email: dining.kl@shangri-la.com