GRAZE, SIP AND SING AT SARASTRO KL BY MILLENNIUM

 

Much as I'd like to refrain from using the term ‘hidden gem’, Sarastro KL at Millennium Lounge is exactly that. Ensconced inside a loft-like space atop Tribeca KL, the initial impression we had of Sarastro KL was it’s one of those speakeasy bars people enjoy discovering.

Exuding the vibes of a gentleman’s club meets posh library, the sedate feel is alleviated by some whimsical Harry Potter-ish touches: owl figurines perched from book-filled shelves, clusters of decorative candles, and vintage bric-a-bracs. The cloak and dagger element is a hidden door leading into the inner sanctum, camouflaged as a sturdy bookshelf.

Inside a raised stage for live performances – currently a solo guitarist entertains Thurs-Sat 8pm-11pm – take pride of place. Overhead is the outlet’s name picked out in Hollywood-style lights.

The banquette seating beside a bank of glass picture windows accords a nice view of the city skyline dominated by the Merdeka 118 Tower. Orderly clusters of dark wood tables and upholstered chairs in neutral tone can easily fit small and large dining groups.

In addition, there are two other private rooms: one can accommodate 10 persons whilst the other can fit up to 20. Karaoke systems are available in-room so songbirds can warble to their hearts’ content.

As a prelude to dinner, the resident mixologist rustled up cocktails for us, complete with billowing misty effects using dry ice. He shook, rattled and poured the concoctions into glasses and voila, two cocktails were created. It was a toss between Cherry Blue comprising Bombay Sapphire gin, Bacardi, Cointreau, blackcurrant syrup and blue curaçao garnished with lime wheel; and Purple Rain mixed from vodka, blue curaçao, cranberry juice, pineapple juice, grenadine, and lime juice.

Both drinks were a tad sweet IMO but they were more agreeable when paired with nibbles. Right off the bat, we raved over the Whitebait (RM36). Deep-fried until crisp in feather-light batter then tossed with togarashi (Japanese spice condiment) and nori strips, the delicate sweetness of those little fishes dipped in an invigorating herbaceous aji verde (Peruvian cilantro sauce) were excellent.

The meaty Portobello Fries (RM34) also scored highly. Drizzled with balsamic glaze and served atop wholegrain mustard aioli, we love chomping on the battered chunks amidst sips of cocktails.

Zingy, punchy flavours from the spicy hot sauce coating of Sriracha Chicken Boxing (RM32) left us ooh-ing and aah-ing over the dish. Spiked with dried chilli, curry leaves and a drizzle of honey, we polished off the lot instantly.

With smoked paprika, lemon juice and Italian chilli flakes accentuating the scrumptious Garlic Prawns (RM46), we barely had time to talk and were more intent on wiping the plate clean.

Lightly torched and served with edamame and mushroom mix, the tender Smoked Duck Breast (RM36) proved on-point. The Soft Shell Crabs (RM58), deep-fried and tossed with in-house seasoning, were equally good accompanied by some Vietnamese dip.

House-made Spanish Meatballs (RM34) with herbed tomato sauce and goat cheese were tasty albeit a tad dry, whilst the sautéed Baby Octopus (RM36) with chilli flakes, bonito and nori strips passed muster.

We found the Seafood Croquette (RM28) underwhelming. The deep-fried seafood patties accompanied by mojo picante (Spanish-style spicy-garlicky red pepper sauce) were too pasty for our liking. We reckon actual bits of seafood for better mouthfeel could dial up its appeal.

Possibly the simplest dish of the evening, the Okra Thai Salad (RM38) emerged as a show-stealer. Topped with tobiko, the tender okra, sautéed white pearl corn, long beans and beef bacon, the cohesive ensemble of varied textures and delicate nuances was irresistible when tossed with Thai dressing.

Stuffed with sun-dried tomato pesto and mozzarella, the golden deep-fried Chicken Piedmontese (RM56) with angel hair pasta was on-point. This crowd-pleasing dish should be a hit with cheese and pasta-loving youngsters.

Sour and spicy, the Soft Shell Crab Sambal Pasta (RM59) was unexpectedly agreeable. The slippery strands of linguine slathered with sambal oelek piqued our interest; matching nicely with the crunchier texture of fried soft shell crab.

Another noteworthy option was seared Lamb Rack (RM99). Deftly prepared at medium rare doneness and served with truffle mash potato and creamy dijon aioli, we picked the bones clean.

A voluptuous parmesan pepper sauce enhanced the tender Beef Wagyu Flank (RM139) along with crispy fries. The juicy beef was sumptuous when relished with the rich savoury sauce.

Decadent Brownies (RM36) with strawberries and salt flakes along with delightful Sago Mango Panna Cotta (RM28) layered with Thai mango and sago pearls heralded a sweetly satisfying ending for us.

For reservations or more information, call Sarastro KL by Millennium, tel: 014-327-3889. Address: 8th Floor, Tribeca Serviced Hotel, Jalan Imbi, Bukit Bintang, Kuala Lumpur. Business hours: Wednesday-Monday, 5pm-1am.

HOT HITS OF CILI KAMPUNG

Cili Kampung’s show-stealing Gulai Nangka with Pucuk Manis (RM35) won us over at first bite. The chunks of tender young jackfruit and leafy Sabah vegetable (sauropus androgynus) in coconut milk had such well-balanced flavours, we instantly went for repeat helpings.

From the legendary isle of Langkawi comes Cili Kampung’s range of traditional Malay family recipes to tempt Klang Valley folks.

To evoke laidback kampung vibes at the Suria KLCC outlet, fish traps double up as pendant lights, clusters of potted palms and greenery along with paintings of kampung life and little replicas of kampung houses are artfully incorporated into the resto’s décor. There is even a cosy, well-designed private dining room with rustic touches.

The hot and spicy level of its classic kampung fare remain true to local expectations, and our recent lunch was proof of that. Sampling the Sambal Cili Api Chicken (RM40) left us hot and sweaty: the tongue-searing blend of green and red chillies, garlic and red onion was punchy and nice. 

To douse the 'fire', we sought cool comfort in house drinks such as Lychee Lime & Rose (RM16), Bunga Telang Selasih (butterfly pea flower drink with basil seeds RM14), Sirap Pandan Kenduri (RM8) and Rambutan Lengkong (a mildly sweet concoction of diced grass jelly, goji berries and red dates, RM14).

Feasting on the rich and aromatic Beef Masak Lomak (RM48) – sliced beef in a blend of ground chillies, turmeric, coconut milk, lemongrass and turmeric leaves was sublime. Best eaten with rice, the yellow curry can also be prepared with fish, chicken, squid, prawns or hornshell (siput balitong).

Spicy-hot with a tinge of sourness, the signature Asam Pedas Tenggiri (RM65) included aromatic daun kesum (polygonum minus), kaffir lime leaves, torch ginger flower and lemongrass to bestow it with depth and complexity. Okra lent textural interest to the dish.

We found several sizeable prawns in the Sambal Petai Prawns (RM65). TBH, this dish could do with less oil and more petai (stink beans) though you can request for extra petai for extra RM10.

 

A colourful ensemble of palm sugar ice cubes, green cendol jelly, red beans, sweet corn, buttered crumbs, fresh jackfruit strips, fresh milk and coconut ice cream making up Mama Cendol (RM22) hit our sweet spot for the finale.

Richer on the palate was Onde Onde Puding Bakar (RM25), a nice take of kuih bakar, a rich coconut milk-based cake baked over hot coals. Made of buttered bread with pandan and coconut milk, the dessert with layers of palm sugar and grated roasted coconut, came with homemade vanilla sauce.

Conceived to showcase local produce, Bukit Kelapa (RM25) enticed us with triple scoops of coconut ice cream with gula melaka syrup, crushed cookie crumbs, honeycomb, and mixed nuts.

Next time you’re in the mood for some kampung-style fare, trek home to Cili Kampung for your share of comforting Malay food in the city.

For reservations at Cili Kampung, call tel: 014-965 6124. Address: Lot 432 - 433 & OS401, Suria KLCC, Kuala Lumpur. Business hours: 11 am – 10 pm daily