Showing posts with label reservation. Show all posts
Showing posts with label reservation. Show all posts

Saturday, December 04, 2021

NEW HIGHS AT TABLE & APRON

I'm stoked to savour my favourite Ulam Rice (RM38) from Table & Apron (T&A) restaurant after a 2-year hiatus. The prolonged MCO and the inter-district/inter-state distance between my residential neighbourhood and the resto put paid to plans for food deliveries, much less dine-in visits. When a recent invitation to meet restaurateur Marcus Low came up, I couldn't pass up on the opportunity.

This perennial speciality that has been always been on the T&A menu is an updated version.  A hybrid between Hakka lei cha and nasi kerabu, the mound of rice is surrounded by cubes of crisp fried mung bean and split peas tempeh, chopped long beans, chopped fresh mint, chopped daun kesom, shredded kaffir lime leaves, raw and toasted coconut flakes, blanched beansprouts, chunks of ikan tongkol, roasted peanuts, curry leaf-infused oil, and spiced kicap manis.

Squeeze the kalamansi lime over the rice, then pour the dark soy dressing over it and stir everything thoroughly. The cohesive mingling and melding of textures and flavours make this an incredibly appetising dish we thoroughly enjoy eating with great relish. Each mouthful is a riotous flavoursome party. Our only complaint is the roasted peanuts which would have been better crushed.

That's basically the crux of Table & Apron's success formula. According to founder Marcus Low, “It's hard to pigeon-hole us but Table & Apron is a Malaysian restaurant at heart. Most of the dishes we serve come with unexpected twists that seem familiar to our guests yet at the same time, they’re also something new.”

The former mechanical engineer reveals he couldn’t resist the siren’s call of culinary after he had given engineering his best shot. Recalling his earliest interest in food was sparked when he was around 12 years old, Marcus says he decided to get his feet wet in the restaurant business by starting out as a dishwasher and kitchen porter.

Marcus Low...Photo courtesy of Table & Apron 

Fuelled by passion, resilience, and determination, Marcus sought various other roles within the kitchen before embarking on his own private supper club stint. One thing led to another, and his dream of being a restaurateur finally came true. Marcus is understandably proud to have celebrated Table & Apron's (previously known as The Kitchen Table) 7th anniversary recently. It's a significant milestone as countless F&B entities have fallen by the wayside in the Klang Valley’s cut-throat F&B scene, amidst prolonged MCO shutdowns during the pandemic.

According to Marcus, "It's my restaurant, but I now want it to be our restaurant - a compelling reason for our employees to own their craft. It's reason enough to realise that as much as we are in the business of food & service, we’re actually really in the business of people.”

My admiration for Marcus and the T&A team grow exponentially when I realise the restaurateur is a caring, empathic employer who goes the extra mile for his team or community as he calls them. By inculcating T&A with its own corporate culture and treating the team with care and respect, I personally can bear testament to the positive pay-offs as a paying customer, (T&A prefers to call us guests). All my past visits to T&A have been positive experiences. Much to their credit, the team has always been on the ball, from the minute we step in up to the time they bid us farewell.

Not many F&B owners bother to offer a designated area for their team to rest in-between operation hours, serve familial-style meals to foster esprit de corp, conduct daily sharing/debriefs sessions, and allocate a budget for regular market intelligence to enable team members to stay abreast of F&B trends...kudos to T&A for such initiatives. 


Now the proof of such internal community TLC is reflected in the food and drink we partake, starting with the handcrafted tipples such as Pineapple & Assam Boi (RM14) and Earl Grey Milk Tea (RM15). Easily recognisable among the local populace, the slightly salty, sour and sweet Pineapple & Assam Boi drink offers a refreshing juicy version of our Malaysianised way of eating fresh guava slices sprinkled liberally with assam boi (salted preserved plum) powder.

As for the latter, Marcus recounts the Earl Grey Milk Tea as a Merdeka Day tribute some 4 years ago when bubble tea was all the rage. “We decided to put our own spin on it with Earl Grey tea, gula Melaka syrup and salted whipped cream.”

Although it doesn’t contain any boba, the fragrant, milky and lightly sweetened tea comes with a good frothy crown and an enticing bergamot scent.


Should you prefer something gut-healthy, there’s tangy Kombucha. Brewed by a former T&A team member who has since moved on to start her own artisanal F&B biz, the fizzy drink has a nice tantalising tartness to it.


Marcus and his team have grown and progressed over the years too. They also operate the adjacent Universal Bakehouse which supplies T&A with Assorted Sourdough (4 slices-RM4, 8 slices-RM8). Various condiments, ranging from Butter, Sea Salt (+RM3) to Smoked Mackerel Pate (+RM10) are available to complement the toasted bread.

Interestingly, the team is flexible enough to accommodate certain dietary requests where permissible. For instance, the Smoked Mackerel Pate – concocted from cream cheese, chopped spring onions and onion – comes sans onion upon request from one of our dining companions. Personally, I like the bursts of sharp, fresh acidity so I’m happy with the original version as it is.

Another show-stopper which has kept evolving and unfailingly gain a loyal following is Pineapple Ketchup Glazed Ribs with Tamarind and Chilli Dip (4 pcs, RM30/8 pcs, RM56).

 

While most restaurants proffer Westernised hickory smoked barbecue accents, T&A takes great pride in teasing our tastebuds with juicy fall-off the bone ribs suffused with sticky fruity-sweet and savoury flavours. You can opt to amp up the appeal even further with the tamarind-chilli dip but IMHO, it doesn’t need it.


Slightly charred at the edges, spiked with slivers of tart onion pickles balancing the creamy ricotta, the Roasted Cauliflower, Ricotta, Pickled Onion and Breadcrumbs (RM21) is the type of vegetable dish everyone will happily devour without fuss.


A hefty rib shoulder cut of Sanbanto Pork Chop (RM58-medium, RM65-large) with Chimichurri & Charred Baby Kailan. Dotted with caramelised garlic pips, the slices of lean meat are trimmed with enough fat to make it enticing.

Where possible, the T&A team advocates the use of local ingredients – the Fish N’ Chips being a good example, highlighting local catfish instead of imported fishes. The sizeable chunks of battered fish accompanied by thick-cut fries go down a treat, coated in T&A’s signature buckwheat batter that renders each piece crunchy-crisp. This was a constant best-seller when it was first introduced as a tea-time takeaway treat so much so T&A finally made it permanent in the menu. Personally, my vote still goes to the much-loved buckwheat fried chicken...another T&A must try!

Our dessert of Apple Crumble Tart with Salted Crumble and Thyme – a newish creation – is a tad underwhelming after the earlier succession of high points. We reckon an old-school apple pie would simply hit the spot better.


For reservations (highly recommended) at Table & Apron, call tel: 03-7733 4000. Address: Jalan SS20/11, Damansara Kim, Petaling Jaya, Selangor

Tuesday, August 13, 2019

IMMERSIVE STAYCATION AT ALOR RIMBA ORCHARD VILLAS


Wake up to the sound of roosters crowing and listen to the morning call resonating throughout the village. Honestly, I had forgotten when was the last time I was roused from my slumber by such a lively greeting to start the day.
Gateway to a private paradise that's Alor Rimba
Keep your eye out for the Alor Rimba Orchard Villas signpost once you turn off from the highway
It is one of the many sensorial and immersive experiences we had throughout our brief but memorable staycation at Rimba Alor Orchard Villas. Just 45 minutes from the historic city of Melaka, this private homestead is located in Melaka Pindah, a quiet village sited off a small lane from the main Alor Gajah highway.
A nicely paved driveway leading to a large tract of well-trimmed lawn greeted us as we drove up to Rimba Alor. Glimpses of rustic dwellings surrounded by leafy trees and foliage hinted at what was in store for our weekend staycation.  
Tuan Haji Kaspur Mat, manager of Rimba Alor, welcomed us with a quick tour of the two holiday homesteads: Villa Rimba (RM900 per night) and Villa Alor (RM800 per night). Ensconced within a 1.7-acre orchard which has been in the owners’ family for generations, Tuan Haji Kaspur said “originally there was only a simple kampung house with a well fed by an underground spring here”.
Now, the owners have built two beautiful traditional Melaka-style wooden village houses onsite. They wanted to offer guests a taste of the slow-paced, relaxing village life without them feeling too isolated from everything else. Designed to accommodate 16-20 persons, each villa boasts 4 bedrooms, with 4 single rollaway beds (RM70 per bed per night) available on prior request.
 
To reflect their Melakan ancestry and cultural heritage, the owners have mindfully modelled both villas after the traditional raised wooden Melakan houses of yesteryear. Up front, a curved staircase adorned with colourful Nyonya tiles takes pride of place.
Ornate wooden carved window banisters, panels of decorative vintage tiles and old wooden doors repurposed into benches make the villas Instagram-worthy. Rimba Alor comes with a spacious wooden patio furnished with rattan chairs too; a vantage point to observe the many bird and animal life frolicking in the orchard.
 
Local watercolour artworks depicting bucolic scenes of fishing villages, reproduction prints of old Melaka and colourful stained glass panels bestow old-world charm to the rustic, cosily furnished living and dining areas. Modern conveniences: air-condition, fans, modern shower and water heater, television, oven toaster, refrigerator and washing machine ensure Rimba Alor guests enjoy their rural getaway without too much hardship.
 
In each bedroom, bed headboards of sarong and songket prints lend vibrant colour. The comfortable beds, fluffy pillows and pristine white linen are similar to those of international hotels. We certainly have no complaints when it comes to catching forty winks here.
 
 
 
Us city dwellers were thrilled to get our first-hand look at the various fruit trees in the orchard. We marvelled at the towering, over 90-year old durian tree, plucked mangosteens and rambutans to devour and sipped fresh coconut water from the harvest gleaned from the many coconut trees around.
 
 
The two kelulut (stingless bees) bee hives should pique the interest of nature-loving folks.Other f ruit trees such as jering (small native fruit encased in dark, hard clam-shape shells that can be eaten raw or cooked), cempedak, guava, soursop, jambu air (rose apple), lime and avocado also flourished in the orchard.
 
 
Nearby is a 8-ft deep fish pond stocked with tilapia, haruan and keli so if you fancy reeling in a catch of the day, fishing rods and bait are available on loan.
A gazebo nearby offers shade from the afternoon sun, an outpost to revel in the natural and soothing surroundings or merely to while time away. Fitted with roll-up/down wooden blinds, it can be turned into a private massage or foot reflexology haven.
Photo courtesy of pureglutton.com
We thoroughly enjoyed succumbing to the magic fingers of two local masseuses who kneaded away the stress of city living from our bodies. Again, guests can pre-booked the massage services for both men and women ahead of time before their actual visit.
 
 
 
When it comes to meals, Rimba Alor has two purpose-built barbecue pits and a dedicated al fresco dining area as well as two sets of sturdy umbrella-shaded wooden tables and chairs in the garden. The brick and mortar, vintage tile tabletops and wooden bench seats make for convenient dining. Should you prefer a more casual approach, picnic mats are available too.
 
 
You may opt to cook your own meals when staying at Rimba Alor but we found it more convenient to have food catered. Be it breakfast, lunch, tea or dinner, Rimba Alor has thoughtfully compiled a list of enterprising Melaka Pindah villagers who can cook up a plethora of typical kampung dishes on request.
 
Our delicious nasi lemak breakfast with the works was a great example. Dinner and lunch menus run the gamut from ikan bakar, asam pedas and rendang to fried chicken, kerabu and sambal with rice.
 
Alternatively, guests can also order food to be delivered or drive to nearby restaurants. Live musical entertainment — be it a solo flautist or a dondang sayang troupe — can be arranged with prior notice given to the manager.
As I sat mesmerised by the sight of a blood orange sunset against a dusky backdrop streaked with vermillion, yellow, purple and orchre, I wish I have the means to make Rimba Alor my writing retreat.
Once Rimba Alor casts its beguiling spell on you, you too will find it hard to return to the drudgery of everyday life. No matter how brief a sojourn at this holiday homestead, it is the closest to experiencing heaven on earth.
For more information on Rimba Alor Orchard Villas, please call Tuan Haji Kaspur Mat, hp no: 019-325 6582 or visit www.rimbaalororchardvillas.com

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