A TASTE OF MACAO AT YUN HOUSE

When Michelin-starred guest chef Anthony Ho of Zi Yat Heen, Four Seasons Macao joins forces with Chef Jimmy Wong of Yun House in Kuala Lumpur, the result is more than a collaborative menu—it’s a culinary dialogue, rich in technique, memory, and homage.

 
Held from 3 to 6 July to mark Yun House’s seventh anniversary, the four-hands menu (RM668 per person) is a study in refinement. A medley of traditional flavours refracted through a modern lens, each dish is carefully composed to honour the past with whispers of the future.

Chef Ho, a son of Hong Kong steeped in two decades of experience, begins with a poetic overture: Fresh Crab Meat with Japanese Pine Needles and Caviar. 

It’s a dish of startling clarity: the delicate sweetness of crab imbued by ephemeral herbaceousness of pine needles juxtaposed against the saline pop of caviar. An ode to the purity of good produce in the confident and deft hands of Ho.

Another masterful composition is his Teochew-style Marinated Mackerel and Chilled Razor Clams, a distillation of the restrained elegance of Teochew banquets. The mackerel, cured just so, sings with refined subtlety, accented by a tiny dollop of fermented bean sauce.

 
Partnering it are slivers of delicious razor clams, served chilled with scallion oil and a glimmer of ice plant. The succulent coolness a seductive textural contrast that delights.

Veteran chef Jimmy Wong, known for his contemporary finesse, responds with an enticingly comforting dish: Braised Fish Maw in Millet Broth with Black Truffle. Simmered for six hours, the broth is deeply nourishing—savoury, complexly flavourful and edged with the aroma of truffle. Each spoonful is a revelation; the gelatinous fish maw and tiny orbs of millet speak of the chef’s time-honoured and masterful techniques.

Ho’s unforgettable Wok-fried Lobster with Dried Shallots and Macanese Black Olives is a conversation-stopper. Here, the brininess of the olives—brought in specially from Macao—mingles with the sweetness of shellfish in a lush umami crescendo.

The Stuffed Chicken Wing with Foie Gras, Abalone and Glutinous Rice is at once nostalgic and daring. Channelling the spirit of classic banquet dishes, the stuffing of foie gras melded with sticky rice adds richness, depth and a touch of indulgence. The luxurious chew of abalone elevates the mosaic of texture.

 
Dessert arrives in two thoughtful creations. First, a Chilled Pumpkin Soup with Nostoc Pearls—a soothing, lightly sweet elixir, its texture lifted by the surprising presence of nostoc, a rare cyanobacteria prized in traditional Chinese medicine. Rich in protein and Vitamin C, this anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory element casts the dessert broth in new light.

 

The final flourish: a golden and delicate Baked Egg Tart with Bird’s Nest and Saffron highlights saffron-scented custard with a topping of bird’s nest. It’s a befitting dessert exuding a sense of luxury without excess, a final flourish paying homage to a splendid set menu composed with world-class skills and a wealth of experience.

For reservations, please call Yun House, Four Seasons Hotel KL, tel: 03 2382 8602 or email: diningreservations.kualalumpur@fourseasons.com

ATLANTIS DIVES INTO FEASTS FOR GENERATIONS

Designed to serve a familial clan of up to 20 persons, the Generation of Jubilation set menu (RM4,388++) by Atlantis Seafood Restaurant & Bar is more than a lavish banquet — it’s a celebration of legacy, family bonds and specialities that balances between tradition and indulgence.

 

The opening salvo of Forever Grateful Platter featuring a quartet of starters: Deep Fried Lychee Shrimp Balls, Salt & Pepper Abalone, Crispy Scallops with Wasabi and Mayonnaise, and Braised Fish Roe Prosperity Bag, is richly infused with symbolism.  

Coated in puffed rice crisps, the lychee-shaped shrimp balls deliver a satisfying crunch with subtle sweetness, playing on contrasts of texture and flavour. Ebikko and wasabi mayo lend the Crispy Scallop a lightly creamy touch with the fresh punchy spiciness of wasabi.

Translucent, eggy sauce enhances the Braised Fish Roe Prosperity Bag – a beancurd skin pouch stuffed with fish roe-accented fish paste shines the light on subtler tastes and delicate textures. Sheathed in deep-fried batter, the Salt and Pepper Abalone teases the tastebuds with its toothsome texture and mildly briny nuance.

A soulful clear broth packed with meaty chicken, chicken feet, cep mushroom and the ethically controversial shark’s fin in the Double Boiled Chicken Soup with Shark’s Fin underscores the menu’s adherence to classic banquet fare. A dish to evoke nostalgia and the weight of old-school tradition.

Choi poh or preserved radish adds comfortingly earthy depth to Steamed Soon Hock with Preserved Radish. 

Steamed to just right doneness, the dish is a masterclass in Cantonese technique. Dried shrimp and chopped bird’s eye chillies dial up the flavour dimension further.

Rich and decadent, the Baked Canadian Oyster with Black Truffle and Cheese should appeal to the young and young-at-heart.

The Double-Delight Crispy Chicken lives up to its name with chicken prepared two ways: deep-fried bite-size chicken coated with mayo, and well-rendered chicken skin stuffed with prawn-fish paste and almond flakes.

 

Whilst the former is underwhelming for me, the latter – a mainstay from yesteryear banquet – wins the day. Special mention must be made of the accompanying pickled cherry; the tangy-salty-sweetness is marvellous for alleviating any cloying richness.

More Cantonese influences appear in the Stir-Fried Australian Scallops with Truffle and Mixed Vegetables, highlighting a refreshing balance of clear, distinct accents to the overall meal.

 

For a hearty finale, the Longevity Egg Noodles with Three Shredded Meats offer is a perennial trans-generational favourite. Loaded with beansprouts, shredded chicken and mushroom, the saucy noodles will leave everyone replete.

 

Dessert to sweeten the occasion consists of cool, gelatinous, and subtly sweet Double-Boiled Hasma with Peach Gum and Red Dates, paired with fluffy soft Longevity Peach Buns—a nod to good health and long life. Perfect for rounding off the meal with such splendid treats.

Overall, the Generation of Jubilation is a well-crafted menu that is cohesive and celebratory—perfect for marking milestones with loved ones.

Guests who pre-book the two set menus: Generation of Jubilation (RM4,388++ for 20 persons) and Generation of Joy (RM1,788++ for 10 persons; RM1,248++ for 6 persons) will receive a complimentary family portrait to commemorate the occasion.

Exclusive for Jom Makan Life readers: Quote MD02 to enjoy 5% off the Parents' Day menus with your reservations at Atlantis.

For reservations at Atlantis Seafood Restaurant & Bar, please contact: 011-2888 1544. Address: Ground Floor, Life Centre, Jalan Sultan Ismail, Kuala Lumpur.

SUSTAINABLE FINE-DINING AWAITS AT EQ'S SABAYON X JAMPA DINNER

A four-hands, one-night only dinner partnering Sabayon’s Chef de Cuisine, Steve Ariffin at EQ with JAMPA’s Executive Chef, Rick Dingen from Phuket will be held on 26 April.
 
Billed as a sustainable seven-course menu (RM650 nett per person), the dinner will showcase T’lur – Malaysia’s own local caviar, the vaunted Harumanis mango and exotic ingredient like bael, known as the Bengal quince or wood apple.

The two culinary creatives hope to reframe diners’ perceptions of value, creativity and promote the advantages of sourcing and using local ingredients.
 
Chef and Netherlands native Dingen has chalked up stints at Michelin-starred Dutch restaurants: La Rive and De Heer Kocken. Dingen’s Chef de Cuisine phase at celebrated Bangkok restaurant Savelberg saw the restaurant awarded a Michelin star.
 
He then proceeded to the one Michelin starred and Michelin Green Star Haoma which espoused sustainable, seasonal, local ingredients sourced from farmers, breeders, fisherfolk and the restaurant’s own garden. A subsequent stint at Madison Steak Avenue, Anantara Bangkok prepared him for JAMPA in Phuket.
 
At this one-of-a-kind dining destination, Dingen assimilated his fine dining restaurant experience with the use of local produce and woodfire cooking skills, elevating JAMPA’s fame throughout Thailand where live-fire cooking and sustainable gastronomy result in sophisticated dishes that celebrate the ever-changing seasons of nature. JAMPA also owns an organic farm, reducing their environmental impact while enabling the culinary team to showcase the best from the land and sea.
 

Back on homeground, Chef Steve Ariffin’s three-year tenure at Sabayon has cemented his reputation as a technical innovator. Conceiving and curating menus for some of Malaysia’s most influential personalities, historic wineries and gastronomes, Chef Steve Ariffin will work hand-in-hand with JAMPA’s Dingen, bringing the exclusive dinner to stellar heights.

For reservations, please contact EQ Kuala Lumpur:

https://www.eqkualalumpur.equatorial.com/guest-chefs/