BEST OF BEIJING'S CANTONESE FARE AT TOH YUEN

 

Meet guest chef Vincent Zhang from Hilton Beijing whose mettle in whipping up Beijing's finest Cantonese cuisine takes centrestage at Toh Yuen, Hilton Petaling Jaya from now until 30 April 2017. 

Chef Zhang artfully fuses the traditional and contemporary, resulting in Beijing fare with distinct Cantonese influences. According to the youthful Zhang, Beijing folks enjoy whetting their appetite with a wide assortment of cold appetisers and this is evident from the starters he has selected for us, to appeal to the Malaysian palate.

We were greatly tickled by the show-stealing khou sui ji (口水鸡); its tongue-in-cheek tag means drool-worthy chicken. Indeed, the succulent pieces of Poached Chicken with Spicy Sauce certainly ruled the roost once we had a sampling. 

Smothered in fiery-red chilli oil, the chook's deliciousness was discernible. Also the gritty chilli on top wasn't tongue-searing hot as we had anticipated but faintly smoky-sweet. 

Served on crushed ice, the paper-thin strips of Fruit Juice Infused Bitter Melon Salad proved on-point too. If you balk at eating this bitter vegetable, I urge you to try it. Instead of the usual astringent bitterness, each crunchy strip tasted mildly fruity as the chef has infused the bitter melon strips with guava juice (sometimes apple juice is used).

Taking a leaf from a classic 300 year-old Chinese appetiser recipe, Zhang reinterpreted Marinated Chinese Cabbage with Mustard his way. The 1.5" Chinese cabbage rolls which resembled siew mai dumplings were pliantly soft, zapping the tastebuds with bright mustardy zinginess once we bit into them.

The Jellyfish Flower in Aged Vinegar with Leek and Ginger Dressing served up a flourish of toothsome crunchiness and piquant flavours. We relished every mouthful of this simple, no-frills offering.

Both the Double Boiled Black Chicken Soup with American Ginseng, Goji Berries & Red Dates and 'Surfing' Fine Slices of Whole Live Abalone with Kombu Seaweed in Superior Broth stayed true to the Cantonese ching theem (clear and sweet) approach. Suffice to say, the delicate, unadulterated accents of the two soups warmed our hearts at first sip.

A hodge-podge of aromatics had gone into marinating the cod overnight before it was deftly transformed by Zhang into Beijing Famous Pan Fried Cod with Mustard Mayo. Paired with plump asparagus spears and a smear of palate-prickling wasabi mayo, this fish exuded such winsome panache we swiftly wiped everything clean.

Zhang then raised the bar with Beef Fillet with Golden Garlic Crisps, a signature dish at Hilton Beijing. Laden with enticing aroma and nuance from golden brown confetti of garlic crisps, the meat's scrumptious mouthfeel invariably scored top marks.

Sha jiang or sand ginger (Kaempferia galanga) was integral to the chef's marinade for the delectable Crispy Roast Chicken with Salt & Pepper, lending muted camphorous peppery hints to the perennial crowd-pleaser. In fact, the crisp skin and juicy, moist flesh made the side dip of chilli sauce almost redundant.

Equal parts of egg and bean milk went into the making of the yellowish Beancurd with Seared Foie Gras, Scallops & Mushroom Sauce. Never mind its amusing Scotch Brite appearance, the eggy beancurd topped with chopped spinach worked like a charm. The beancurd's light sponginess was a match made in culinary heaven with the attendant ingredients.

Ethereally soft and bouncy textures converged with delicately sweet and clear seafood accents in the dish of Prawn Fritters with Asparagus, Pumpkin & Lily Bulbs; an admirable testament of the chef's flair for his craft.

He even presented a Chinese fusion of Taiwan's famed 'three cup' chicken speciality, resulting in Cantonese Stir-fried Chicken with Trio of Sauces. Whilst basil plays an assertive role in the Taiwanese version, the convergence of savoury-sweet-herbaceous nuances was no less voluptuous on the palate. Garlic, ginger and shallot also added a tinge of warm spiciness.

Mindful of our hot, tropical weather, Zhang proffers Hot Green Bean & Mandarin Peel Broth as one of the dessert options. Known for its cooling property, the green bean purée was pleasantly smooth and slightly unctuous.

Another cooling dessert broth which should prove popular is Snow Pear with Red Dates & Sweet White Fungus, served hot or cold. A timeless not too sweet treat that's both nutritious and wholesome after a hearty meal.

Dishes for the Beijing's Finest Cantonese Cuisine by Chef Vincent Zhang are priced from RM35 onwards. 

For reservations, call Toh Yuen, tel: 03-7955 9122 extn. 4073/74 or check www.zestpj.com for more details.

5 'MUST TRY' HOMESTYLE GOODIES AT DASHI DINING SAYA

Dashi is the essential stock in Japanese cuisine. It is made by immersing katsuoboshi (dried, smoked and cured bonito or skipjack tuna) shavings in boiling water then straining the liquid. Other possible ingredients to make dashi include konbu (kelp seaweed), niboshi (small dried anchovies), dried mackerel or iriko (dried sardine).

This deceptively simple stock is prized for the umami taste it imparts, now widely acknowledged as the fifth basic taste after sweet, sour, salty and bitter. First discovered by Professor Kikunae Ikeda from the Tokyo Imperial University in 1908, umami is a combination of two Japanese words, umai (delicious) and mi (taste). Described as meaty savouriness, umami is unique as it can enhance the inherent flavours of other ingredients, hence making food tastes even more delicious.

At Dashi Dining Saya, the umami aspect of dashi plays a central role in its offerings; from miso soup and chawanmushi to home-style Japanese dishes such as dashi maki tamago (Japanese omelette) and chazuke (rice with dashi & tea broth).

The parent company, Asmo Catering (M) Sdn Bhd also runs Dashi Delica Saya, the Japanese delicatessen proffering a wide range of homespun Japanese dishes for takeaway at Isetan, The Japan Store in KL. According to Masao Shimizu, Director - Malaysia of Dashi Dining Saya/Asmo Catering, Asmo is a diversified group in Japan with F&B businesses in Taipei and Hong Kong.

Dashi Dining Saya & Dashi Delica Saya are the company's first foray into Malaysia in tandem with the opening of the newly rejuvenated Isetan, The Japan Store in KL. Plans are the pipeline to open similar outlets in future, as and when suitable locations have been chosen and secured.

Shimizu-san said: "Our two flagship outlets entered the local F&B scene to widen the repertoire of Japanese cuisine among local food lovers. We want Malaysians to know there's so much more to Japanese food than sushi, sashimi and tempura. Dashi Dining Saya & Dashi Delica Saya would like introduce typical home-style dishes eaten by most Japanese to the local clientele, enabling them to sample and familiarise themselves with what we offer." 

Open your minds and palate to sample these 5 'must try' homestyle goodies from Dashi Dining Saya:

DASHI CHAZUKE

The soulful speciality of Rice with Hot Dashi Soup and Soy-Marinated Tuna Sashimi (RM29) is highly recommended. Diners can decide on the amount of rice they prefer - small (200g), medium (250g + RM2) or large (300g + RM3) with free refill of Saya's special dashi soup. 

Besides the bowl of rice topped with slices of succulent soy-marinated tuna, crunchy pearls of rice puffs and shredded nori, the set comes with a side dish of chikuzenni, traditional stew of lotus root, carrot, mushroom, chicken and burdock root and a small bowl of hijiki, a type of brown sea vegetable cooked in a sweetish sauce with chopped burdock and carrot.

To enjoy the hearty offering, sprinkle chopped spring onion and sesame seeds onto the rice. Then pour the hot dashi broth onto it and slurp up the delicious mixture after giving it a good stir.

 

There's also Rice with Hot Dashi Soup and Marinated Cod Roe (RM24) or the more popular variants of Rice with Hot Dashi Soup and Grilled Salmon Flakes or Grilled Mackerel (RM27).

TAKE SET MEAL  

An assortment of these homely specialities can be enjoyed at Dashi Dining Saya in the form of Ume (RM32) and Take (RM38) set meals. The Take Set shown above is great value for money as it comprises six dishes with a bowl of white rice and miso soup.

The first offering distills the umami essence perfectly as the savoury nuance of the unctuous sauce in the Tofu and Kinoko Mushroom with Dashi Sauce was discernible in the soft beancurd. Shiitake mushroom is also umami-rich so you'd be smacking your lips with satisfaction after eating this.

We thoroughly relished the second dish of delectable Fried Chicken Saya-Style too. The meaty pieces were tender and flavourful yet crisp to the bite on the outside.

Fruity sweet Tomato with Dashi Apple Jelly was also featured. Imported Japanese tomatoes aren't cheap and a whole fruit from Dashi Delica Saya costs RM8 alone. Slathered in subtly sweet jelly, the tomato was firm yet succulent and juicy on the palate.

Also included in the assortment was the trad Chikuzenni in addition to a huge piece of Hokkaido Beef Croquette which provided textural contrast.

Lastly, Grilled Mackerel stuffed with Eringi Mushroom completed the substantial selection. A sheen of Japanese-style barbecue sauce lent the fish moistness whilst its fungi stuffing bestowed different textural interest. Light eaters may find it a challenge to finish all these delicacies accompanied by rice and soup but heartier diners will find themselves replete from the meal.

ODEN

A perennial comfort food in Japan especially in winter, Oden is the Japanese version of yong tau foo. Most of the key ingredients for oden are made from processed fish paste such as chikuwa (tubular fish paste), kamaboko (fish paste with pink rim and white centre) and satsuma-age (fried fish cake patties) among others. Hard-boiled eggs, chunks of daikon (radish), konnyaku and fried beancurd are also common in the repertoire.

A sample selection of different Oden items (pix from archives)

You can pick and mix various Oden items from Dashi Delica Saya daily. The goodies are served in dashi broth with a dollop of mustard, available for takeaway or dine-in too if seats are available at Dashi Dining Saya. Give these tempting morsels a go next time you see this.
 

MACKEREL WITH GRATED DAIKON

Shimizu-san then pointed out some uncommon Japanese delights from the display counter to us, one of which is Grilled Mackerel with Grated Daikon (RM9 per piece). "We notice Malaysians enjoy eating fish especially salmon. Our chef created this mackerel dish to add greater variety to our food repertoire and also to please customers who prefer lightly cooked fish dishes," said Shimizu-san. 

Indeed, the delicious mackerel is moistened by an appetising savoury dashi stock with generous toppings of grated Japanese radish, ginger slivers and chopped spring onion giving it subtle 'fresh' flavours.

CHICKEN CHOP NAGOYA-STYLE

We also cluck with approval the family-friendly offering of Chicken Chop Nagoya Style (RM12). Quite a lot of work has gone into the boneless chicken roll which is stuffed with asparagus and grilled with teriyaki sauce. Just slice up the roll once warmed up to serve.  

It's best to scour Dashi Delica Saya personally to see the range available. Some of the current selection should pique interest with familiar ingredients like lady's fingers, radish and chicken prepared in decidedly Japanese style. Onigiri (Japanese triangular rice balls) and takeaway lunch boxes are also sold here.

Dashi Dining Saya & Dashi Delica Saya are located at the Lower Ground Floor, Isetan The Japan Store, Lot 10, Jalan Sultan Ismail, KL. Tel: 03-2110 1479. 

A TASTE OF KOREA AT MIDO

'Mido' in Hangul means 'taste' and it's the true taste of Korea enterprising owner Joseph Lee aims to deliver when diners step into his restaurant. Mido's brick, mortar and timber façade resembles that of a traditional hanok (Korean house). Step past the heavy set wooden doors and you'd find a charmingly rustic wood-clad interior -- a testament to Lee and his team's hard work and labour of love.

From the delicate paper lanterns and textured walls to faux windows and latticed partitions adorned with ‘tal’ or Korean masks, almost everything were designed and custom-built by hand for the restaurant.

Sturdy wooden bowls of Pumpkin Soup warmed us up while we perused the menu. The simple broth was thick without being gluey, its ethereal sweetness primed our palate for dishes with substance to come.

Apart from the customary Banchan (six types of Korean appetisers and side dishes), the conversation-stopper has to be Spicy Pork Skin (RM20) – a rare find comprising smooth, toothsome pork skin doused in a piquant gochujang sauce. The texture resembled that of brown sotong but acquired a distinctly different dimension when dipped into the side dish of roasted soya bean powder.

Regular K-food appetisers of Seafood Pancake (RM25) and Kimchi Pancake (RM25) are also available. The squid and prawn pancake made perfect pairing with Makkoli (RM28), traditional Korean rice wine. Somewhat zestier on the palate with a robust kick is the Kimchi Pancake, an agreeable combination of batter and fermented pickled cabbage. 

Fried twice and heavily seasoned, the Korean Fried Chicken Wings (RM25) in normal or spicy mode should hit the spot well as a crowd-pleasing opener. Each resto boasts its own marinades so it’s worth sampling the versions here just to ascertain if they can wing it with you.

Unlike other Korean barbecue restos which have protruding suction hoods hanging down from the ceiling, Mido has them tucked away underneath the dining tables. The modern contraption proved its prowess as smoke and cooking fumes were extracted silently from the table-top grills, ensuring by the time we departed the resto, none of us reeked like burnt barbecue!

The selection of meat is limited to five for the barbecue: Pork Collar (RM30 for 200gm), Marinated Chicken (RM28 for 200gm), Marinated Pork (RM33 for 200gm), Chili Paste Pork (RM33 for 200gm) and Marinated Beef Rib (RM65 for 280gm). According to Lee, the meats are aged in sealed, vacuum-packed bags to retain moisture, develop deeper flavour and ensure juicy tenderness upon hitting the grill.

Photo courtesy of Chasingfooddreams

Once you have decided on your choice of meat, staffers will grill everything up for you. But if you prefer a hands-on experience, that’s doable too. Derive better enjoyment of the meaty offerings by wrapping them up in fresh lettuce leaves smeared with Mido’s house dips: basil, sesame oil with salt, ssamjang, or peanut.

My fave dish at Mido has to be the sweetish Bulgogi Casserole (RM48), a popular speciality representative of K-cuisine. Laden with assorted vegetables, the thinly sliced beef in sweet soya sauce broth was utterly sublime.

On the tangy, zesty spectrum is Tofu Kimchi Casserole (RM45). While some of the ingredients may be similar to bulgogi, the broth is subtly perked up by the inclusion of pickled cabbage or kimchi. Thick slices of smooth beancurd tempered the equation. Personally, I hanker for a more assertive broth but others may find it up to par.

Seafood and fresh tofu combine to give the house Doenjang Soup (RM22) additional textural interest and umami-richness. Best suited for those who relish savouring boldly flavourful soup for the soul.

Clay kimchi storage urns, stone slabs and traditional woven slippers decorate the outside of Mido

For less than the cost of a LCC ticket, Mido is worth a visit for those wanting to temper their Hallyu fever.

Call tel: 03-7865-9779 for reservations at MIDO KOREAN BBQ RESTAURANT, 11-G, Jalan SS2/64, Petaling Jaya, Selangor.