SPICE, RICE AND EVERYTHING JAFFNA'S NICE AT YARL

Yellow as the sun and fluffy soft, the signature Yarl Dosai (plain RM3, Yarl Egg Dosai RM4) is an inviting option for afternoon tea (4pm onwards) or dinner at Yarl Restaurant in Brickfields.

The dosai gets its vivid hue from turmeric powder; its compelling taste enlivened by aromatic fried onion and curry leaves. Accompanied by dhal and onion curry, the delicious and comforting dish is one of Yarl’s many crowd-pulling Sri Lankan specialities.

Ten years ago, Yarl — derived from Yalpanam, Jaffna’s old name in Tamil — was merely a sidewalk stall in the middle of Brickfields. Today, it’s a full-fledged restaurant which had  undergone a fresh facelift about two months ago. Although the premise isn’t air-conditioned, whirring ceiling fans keep the no-frills interior cool and comfy for a cuppa and quick meals from 7am to 10pm daily.

Two home-trained chefs are tasked with rustling up a wide array of distinct Jaffna specialities at Yarl; based on their arsenal of ancestral recipes and ingredients imported from Jaffna and the Northern province of Sri Lanka. Spices are blended and ground in-house for maximum flavour and freshness.

 

The daily selection of dishes focuses on the 6 Tastes of Food in Tamil known as “Arusuvai” i.e. Sweet, Sour, Salty, Bitter, Spicy and Astringent (Dry). Every meal should include an equal balance of all those flavours, to properly satisfy each major taste bud on the palate. Hence, the lunch buffet at Yarl consists of 15 different types of vegetarian dishes as well as 8 non-vegetarian dishes.

Prices are reasonable too. Take your pick of 3 veggies with rice (RM7) or rice with 2 veggies & chicken (RM9) or mutton (RM12). Rasam and sambal are complimentary with the meal. On Friday, we are told red rice is served.

Notable vegetable dishes we’d recommend include Beetroot Varai, Pumpkin Varai, Pavakkai (deep-fried bittergourd chips), Brinjal-Tomato-Garlic Curry, Lentil Sothi and Vegetable Cutlet (RM1.50). Fragrant spices are used judiciously, more to imbue aroma and flavour in the different dishes than for heat. Only the brinjal-tomato-garlic curry will set the tastebuds tingling with zingy heat.

The non-vegetarian plethora is equally compelling especially Sura Varai — flaky shark meat floss cooked with turmeric, onion, chilli and grated coconut being the most outstanding pick of the crop.

My dining companions rave about the Mutton Bone Curry since they enjoy digging in to relish the marrow. Piquant and bursting with zingy heat makes the Prawn Sambal a standout but I daresay the Mutton Peratal, Chicken Curry and Fish Curry prove on-point too. Chicken Pirattal (RM8), Fish Cutlet, Chicken Varuval, and Fried Tenggiri (RM12) are also available.

For a taste of authentic Jaffna street food, try the house speciality of Chicken Kothu (RM10) — chopped fried roti with spices, onion, leek, scallion and egg. In Sri Lanka, street vendors hawking this popular steet food are a common sight.

Its enticing, smoky taste is similar to local char kway teow. At Yarl, you can order Vegetarian Kottu (RM7) as well as Egg (RM8), Prawn (RM15) or Mutton Kottu (RM12) prepared with a choice of Roti, Puttu or Idiyappam.

Since Yarl opens early for breakfast, it won’t be remiss to start the day with Puttu (RM2.50) or Red Puttu (RM4), freshly steamed cylinders of white or red rice flour and grated coconut. The typical Jaffna way to savour puttu is complement it with side dishes of Dhal and Vendhaya Kulambu (fenugreek curry).

Special mention must be made of the Appam here. Light and crisp at the edges with a soft, pillowy centre, the Sweet Appam (RM2.50) sprinkled with brown sugar and coconut cream is sublime as an afternoon tea treat or dessert. The richer-tasting Egg Appam (RM3) is no less delectable although Sri Lankans tend to eat it with curry or sambal.

For more information, please call YARL RESTAURANT, tel: 010-360 6624. Address: 50 Jalan Pedang Belia, Brickfields, Kuala Lumpur.

APPETHAIZING CROWD-PLEASERS AT SUPERTHAI

Opened in May last year, Superthai is a no-frills but air-conditioned restaurant specialising in crowd-pleasing Thai fare. Tucked upstairs in one of the many shops in Uptown Damansara, Superthai evokes modern industrial vibes with practical furnishing designed for the serving and enjoyment of simple, quick meals.

White collar workers in a hurry will find the Superthai Set (RM20 + a free drink) good enough and adequately hearty for a fast lunch. The substantial platter comprises various dishes: mango salad, Thai green chicken curry, salt & pepper squid, crispy egg, tom yum soup, BBQ pork belly and seafood sauce. Trust us, some light eaters may even find this ample enough to share.

Prefer to stick to homely options reminiscent of Mom's cooking? Perhaps the Thai Pork Leg Rice (RM17) will hit the spot better thanks to its similarity to Chinese braised pork in soya sauce. Besides the braised pork meat, a serving of this rice platter includes ham choi (salted mustard), hard-boiled egg, sliced beancurd, greens and soup. Taste-wise, the pork tastes passable albeit blander compared to other no-frills Thai eateries I had patronised.

Small groups may find it feasible to sample Pineapple Fried Rice (RM18) with luncheon meat dices. Raisins and peanuts add textural interest to the rice. It's a good foil for some familiar favourites such as Tom Yum Kai Lan (RM15), Tom Yum Seafood (RM27) and Crispy Omelette (RM12).

Surprisingly, the tom yum soup (ample for 3-4 persons) isn't too hot but I guess majority of Superthai patrons is ok with it being less kick-ass spicy. We all like the fluffy omelette with its crispy edges though so this is one of the more notable choices worth considering. As for the greens, I wish the dish lacks the punchy hot & sour accent usually associated with tom yum but don't let me stop you from trying this.

Interestingly, the Pork Knuckle in Sweet & Sour Sauce (RM55) garners rather divergent response from our dining party. Some like it, some don't. I think it's the kind of dish that grows on you after several mouthfuls. The pork knuckle is first deep-fried then doused in sweet & sour sauce with a house-made coriander sauce. Freshly chopped coriander, red & green capsicum and onion pretty up the overall offering. Die-hard pork lovers should give this a go.

Pork holds sway at Superthai as we discovered the resto's best-selling items include Basil Leaf Minced Meat (RM18) and Flame Grilled Pork Neck (RM28). The first passes muster - the basil fragrance noticeably discernible when you sample the minced pork. My only grouse is the saltiness but admittedly, I've a much lower tolerance for sodium than most. I had the same issue with the second although the speciality comes up to scratch.

Not big on pork? Luckily, there are plenty of fish and seafood options to reel you in. We highly recommend the tantalising Stuffed Squid (RM29). Steamed in bright, tangy mixture of chilli-garlic-lime juice, the minced pork and prawn stuffing inside the pair of squids boasts extra zest from the fresh coriander sauce on top. A drool-worthy speciality guarantees to whet the appetite.

Alternatively, try the Steamed Fish with Lime Sauce (RM48) and Thai Steamed Prawns with Glass Noodles (RM28). Best accompanied by plain rice in order to appreciate the strong flavours.

Dessert choices produce no surprises as you either load up on Mango Sticky Rice (RM10) or Coconut Ice Cream (RM10). The former again seems pedestrian while the latter comes prettied up with diced 'red rubies' (waterchestnut), jackfruit strips and strangely, raisins.

 

For reservations, please call Superthai Restaurant, tel: 03-7710 5888. Address: 29-M, Jalan SS21/1a, Damansara Uptown, Petaling Jaya, Selangor. Biz hours: Tuesday – Sunday 12pm – 2.30pm, 6pm – 10pm