GUARDIANS OF THE CHINA & NANYANG CULINARY GALAXY

A rose by any other name tastes just as nice when you dine at The Oriental Group's yearly culinary showcase. This time, the diversity and abundance of China and the Nanyang (South East Asia) serve as the hot bed of inspiration for Group Executive Chef Justin Hor.

As a passionate advocate for flying the flag high and shining the spotlight on Chinese cuisine, Chef Justin joins forces with Corporate Executive Chef James Ho of Ruyi, Malaysia. The dynamic duo's collab is in line with The Oriental Group’s past initiatives in bringing definitive menus featuring lou si fu or veteran master Chinese chefs and their signature specialities to educate the dining public and gain greater appreciation of Chinese food and cooking. The nostalgic 1960s, past decades of Hong Kong cuisine, and the legacy of Teochew food were some of the chosen themes in the past.

Chef Justin Hor said: “We always strive to stay true to the authencity of Chinese cuisine when curating recipes for the China and Nanyang promotion. It took us six months of brainstorming to rustle up 60-70 dishes before we narrow the selection down for the final menu. We have to ensure the dishes can be replicated by our team at the different restaurants.”

The opening volley by Chef James Ho is already a conversation-stopper. Delicate and thin slices of crunchy radish are fashioned into pretty rose blossoms, to form Pink Roses of Pickled Radish (RM28). Stained pink using boiled red cabbage water, the radish 'petals' taste tantalisingly salty-sweet after being pickled with preserved plums. A pleasing starter to prime the palate for the curtain-raisers of Spicy Garlic Sauce Pork Belly (RM28) and Hunan Waxed Meat & Dried Long Beans (RM38).

 

Streaky belly pork slices drizzled with sesame seed-flecked, garlicky and punchy hot Taiwanese oyster sauce makes it a notable tastebud-teaser. While the latter appears seemingly simple and no frills, we discover the painstaking efforts that goes into preparing the dried long beans before the appetiser hits the table.

Not to be outdone, Chef Justin Hor steps up to the plate with stellar creations such as Jellyfish & Okra in Wasabi-Sesame Sauce (RM28), Cod Fish Rolls (RM28) and Zhenjiang Sweet & Sour Iberico Baby Pork Ribs (RM28).

The mildly hot zestiness with the crunchy-gelatinous soft textural combinations of the first appetiser enhances it irresistible appeal. As for the batons of crispy, lightly-battered cod, we find the buttery shoyu-mirin sauce bestows a delightfully lush finish.

Premium Zhenjiang vinegar is the key condiment to accentuate the tender ribs. It's one of the best sweet and sour sauce rendition I've encountered, leaving the chunks of pork slicked with such bright and flavourful tangy-fruity-savoury nuances that leave us wanting more.

 

Boiled for over 8 hours in a rich, superior stock of pork, old chicken, dried conch and Yunnan ham, the Superior Shark’s Fin Soup with Morel Mushroom (RM118 per person) is a cherished classic updated with the inclusion of morel mushroom. A heartwarming broth that beguiles with its hearty depth of oceanic sweet-savoury flavour dimension.

Expect a frisson of excitement when a salt dome crusted with cinnamon, star anise and cloves is set ablaze; a touch of dramatic flair to herald the serving of Salt Baked 3 Head Abalone with Truffle & Kombu (RM138 each, min 2 pcs per order). 

 

This pricey speciality ticks all the right boxes and then some, mainly due to the inventive East-West truffle and kombu pairing to amplify the delicacy’s unique deep-sea notes.

Hats off to both chefs for raising their game to create the exquisite Roast Suckling Pig with Foie Gras Mousse (RM398). Not content with using French goose liver in its original form, they imbue the foie gras with Sichuan pepper and spring onion before blending it with sake and mirin into a lush, sublime mousse.

Piped onto wafer-thin water crackers, each foie gras rosette is then topped with a piece of crackly suckling pig skin to transform it into a dream epicurean dish fit for a king! Ever mindful of a dish’s flavour balance, the chefs proffer some deep-fried peppery hot, zingy ‘popcorn’ chicken, to help temper the cloying richness.

After his first unforgettable taste of the yellow corvina a decade ago, Chef Justin succeeded in sourcing the fish from China and imported it exclusively for this showcase. According to the chef, Deep-fried Yellow Corvina Shanghainese-style (RM38 each) is the best way to savour its mild, sweet taste.

 

“The fish’s firm, flaky flesh is especially tasty along the spiny bone area where the natural oil is concentrated” said Chef Justin. I find dipping the fish into the vinegar and ginger dip or eating it with marinated cherry tomatoes on the side helps to refresh the palate should the natural oiliness seems a tad overwhelming.

Pine nuts, crabmeat, mushroom and water chestnut dices give the Baked Rice with Cheese & Crispy Rice in Baby Pumpkin (RM28) a myriad of textural dimensions. Sourced from Fujian, China, the baby pumpkins came flash frozen and hallowed out; a whimsical receptacle to hold the delicious baked rice, smothered under creamy cheese topping and crunchy rice krispies.

Dessert is never ho-hum with special servings of Refreshing Rainbow Bird’s Nest (RM28) and Peanut Lava Carrots (RM15 per 3 pcs) to tempt us. Light and refreshing, the Thai lemongrass jelly is enhanced by bits of blueberries, strawberries, jackfruit and basil seeds.

It took Chef Justin two months to reinterpret the usual sesame seed balls into plump ‘carrots’. Naturally coloured with carrot juice, the outer chewy dough is made from a mixture of glutinous rice flour with cornstarch and wheat flour whilst the core yields a molten filling of crushed peanuts, sesame seeds, margarine and butter.

You can relish the gamut of China & Nanyang speciality dishes in a set menu priced at RM2,388 nett for a table of 10 persons. Both Chef Justin Hor and Chef James Ho will appear at a series of grand dinner on the following dates:

9 August      The Hand Room

10 August     Ruyi

13 August     Oriental Treasure

14 August     Noble Banquet

Alternatively, try the a la carte dishes at all participating restaurants under The Oriental Group until 31 August 2018.

For reservations and information, call Emily: 012-392 2082 or Melysa: 012-599 6028. Website: www.orientalrestaurants.com.my

TWENTY THIRD STREET & DARROZE LAUNCH BY CAVE & CELLAR

We toast the debut of two new craft spirit brands, Twenty Third Street Distillery (Australia) and Darroze Armagnac (France) into the local bar scene, thanks to alcoholic beverage importer & distributor Cave & Cellar Sdn Bhd. Ms Candy Mah, Executive Director of Cave & Cellar Sdn. Bhd said “With the changing market demands and upcoming trend on alcoholic beverages in recent years, we are venturing into more artisanal alcoholic beverages by importing limited, rare and premium brands.”

Launched at Paus TTDI, our interest was piqued by Twenty Third Street’s eclectic range: Signature Gin, Not your Nanna’s Brandy, Hybrid Whisk(e)y & Riverland Rose Vodka. The beautifully designed bottle labels are miniature art pieces; a visual precursor to the craft spirits within.

First built in 1914, Twenty Third Street Distillery was reincarnated from a century-old landmark at Twenty Third Street in Riverland (3 hours away from Adelaide), Australia. Established to process the Riverland harvests, production ceased in 2002 after several mergers and takeovers. Steeped in history, a new team then forged the site and business revival in 2016.

 

Contemporary inventiveness and passion blended with old-school craftsmanship helped to chart new life for Twenty Third Street. Contradictory yet cohesive, the spirits artfully meld savoury & sweet, bright & smooth on the palate. 

Global Brand Ambassador for Twenty Third Street Distillery, Shaun Pattinson guided us through the different tipples. “We're entering a booming but highly competitive artisan/craft spirit production market. Our modern, innovative products integrates a compelling, credible story; offering unique experiences that resonate well with today’s discerning millennial audience.”

Canapes to complement our sampling session at PAUS

Shaun’s first visit to Malaysia was aimed at sharing his knowledge with local mixologists and trade players on the characteristics of Twenty Third Street gin, brandy and whisky. “Gin is gaining popularity in Australia and generating great interest thanks to its versatility. We’d have to overcome people’s resistance on trying brandy and whisky, and get them to focus on the taste and flavour first.”

The Riverland Rose Vodka with its merest hint of pink blush culled from organic hibiscus petal and seductively delicate rosy scent is the day’s showstopper. Crafted using two types of carefully selected dewy-fresh rose petals macerated in cane-based vodka and distilled in small copper pots, the Riverland Rose Vodka can be enjoyed neat or chilled, or with a splash of water or tonic. We were instantly besotted by the floral scented vodka’s faintly sweet vanillin taste and warm, lingering finish reminiscent of Turkish delight.

For Twenty Third Street Signature Gin, the Distiller has infused ten botanicals including juniper and coriander in addition to local citrus into the gin. Dry and neat, it can be mixed with tonic or soda, or as a base to create distinctive cocktails. We found the Signature Gin flaunted a spicy mélange of juniper, mandarin and coriander aroma while the zing of juniper, soft citrusy notes and hints of spices left our tastebuds tingling.

Marketed as an entry level brandy for the young generation, the deep amber Not Your Nanna’s Brandy should go down well with modern hipsters. Fabulous when paired with rich eats like foie gras, the toasty golden liquid suffused our tongues with its tannic oaky spiciness and lush honey sweetness rounded off by a sweet peachy aroma on the nose.

When Scotch whisky meets American bourbon, Hybrid Whisk(e)y happens. This handiwork of Master Distiller Graham Buller consisted of whisky and bourbon that had undergone an average of five years barrel maturation before the final blend is kept in bourbon barrels for a smooth finish. The result yielded a distinctive blend ripe with sherry-sweet, malty flavours tinged with toasty oak and fruity accents.

Armagnac is the oldest spirit in France. Produced from a single distillation of white grapes (it takes 6 litres of wine to product 1 litre of spirit), Armagnac comes from the French southwest region of Gascony — the area famed for The Musketeers, good food like foie gras and wine.

The Darroze bas-Armagnac story started with Jean Darroze and his restaurant in Villeneuve-de-Marsan. A highly respected chef enamoured with the southwest’s centuries old traditions and local Landes cuisine, Darroze introduced his son Francis to the culinary arts, the great wines and the fine Gascon eaux-de-vie. Translated as ‘water of life’, it basically refers to fruit brandies except those made from grapes.

By cultivating a taste for tradition and authenticity, Francis Darroze mastered the art of discovering small, low-key and unknown estates on his bas-Armagnac explorations with his knowledgeable and demanding wine-loving father. Their early discoveries date back to the 50s and 60s, and strengthened in the 1970s, with the construction of a cellar dedicated to ageing.

Today, Marc Darroze — a trained oenologist and the third-generation owner of Darroze Armagnac — continues to roam the lands of Armagnac, in search of this golden liquid. Around forty estates contribute to the Darroze collection; the spirits ageing completed and perfected in the Roquefort cellars inside rare and ancient barrels. Several decades of careful ageing in oak barrels are required for the fine spirits to concentrate their expressions of the quality of the place and the vintage.

The Darroze collection offers a true voyage of taste over the infinite variations of terroir, variety and ‘savoir-faire’. Their “Les Grand Assemblage” range of 8, 12 & 20 years; followed by their iconic range “The Unique Collection” of 2004 Domaine de Couzard-Lassalle à Mauléon d’Armagnac, 1999 Domaine de Rieston à Perquie & 1988 Domaine de Lagoue à Hontanx are representative of the name of its original estate, vintage and the bottling date.

Darroze Grand Assemblage 8 Years: Fruity on the nose with hints of candied orange zest and prunes. Smooth and not too oaky, drink it as a fresh and light aperitif neat or on the rocks. Popular in the USA as a base for cocktails.

Darroze Grand Assemblage 12 Years: Aged for 10 years in oak, this Armagnac is subtly spicy on the palate. Allow it to breathe in the glass to release its beguiling, soft aroma of cinnamon and liquorice.

Darroze Grand Assemblage 20 Years: Full of lively character, it flaunts deeply flavourful, rounded tannins and a long finish. Warm on the tastebuds with distinct, mellow ‘bite’ of spice tapering off to subtle chocolate and raisin notes.

Domaine Couzard Lassalle 2004: This golden tipple proffers complex tea and fruit scents mixed with toasty spice note. We also detected notable accents of leather, spice and citrus.

Domaine De Rieston 1999: Deep orange-gold liquid with silky tannins and a long, lingering finish. Delightful Christmassy accents of oranges, gingerbread and toast comes to mind when it hits the tongue.

Domaine De Lagoue 1988: Golden brown tipple redolent with the scent of orange peel, vanilla and cinnamon. Well-balanced with peppery note on the palate and a smooth, long finish.

For more information, please contact Cave & Cellar's Marketing Department, Ashlyn: +6 012-2900 777 or Cynthia, +6 016-7176 379.