SPICE, RICE AND EVERYTHING JAFFNA'S NICE AT YARL

Yellow as the sun and fluffy soft, the signature Yarl Dosai (plain RM3, Yarl Egg Dosai RM4) is an inviting option for afternoon tea (4pm onwards) or dinner at Yarl Restaurant in Brickfields.

The dosai gets its vivid hue from turmeric powder; its compelling taste enlivened by aromatic fried onion and curry leaves. Accompanied by dhal and onion curry, the delicious and comforting dish is one of Yarl’s many crowd-pulling Sri Lankan specialities.

Ten years ago, Yarl — derived from Yalpanam, Jaffna’s old name in Tamil — was merely a sidewalk stall in the middle of Brickfields. Today, it’s a full-fledged restaurant which had  undergone a fresh facelift about two months ago. Although the premise isn’t air-conditioned, whirring ceiling fans keep the no-frills interior cool and comfy for a cuppa and quick meals from 7am to 10pm daily.

Two home-trained chefs are tasked with rustling up a wide array of distinct Jaffna specialities at Yarl; based on their arsenal of ancestral recipes and ingredients imported from Jaffna and the Northern province of Sri Lanka. Spices are blended and ground in-house for maximum flavour and freshness.

 

The daily selection of dishes focuses on the 6 Tastes of Food in Tamil known as “Arusuvai” i.e. Sweet, Sour, Salty, Bitter, Spicy and Astringent (Dry). Every meal should include an equal balance of all those flavours, to properly satisfy each major taste bud on the palate. Hence, the lunch buffet at Yarl consists of 15 different types of vegetarian dishes as well as 8 non-vegetarian dishes.

Prices are reasonable too. Take your pick of 3 veggies with rice (RM7) or rice with 2 veggies & chicken (RM9) or mutton (RM12). Rasam and sambal are complimentary with the meal. On Friday, we are told red rice is served.

Notable vegetable dishes we’d recommend include Beetroot Varai, Pumpkin Varai, Pavakkai (deep-fried bittergourd chips), Brinjal-Tomato-Garlic Curry, Lentil Sothi and Vegetable Cutlet (RM1.50). Fragrant spices are used judiciously, more to imbue aroma and flavour in the different dishes than for heat. Only the brinjal-tomato-garlic curry will set the tastebuds tingling with zingy heat.

The non-vegetarian plethora is equally compelling especially Sura Varai — flaky shark meat floss cooked with turmeric, onion, chilli and grated coconut being the most outstanding pick of the crop.

My dining companions rave about the Mutton Bone Curry since they enjoy digging in to relish the marrow. Piquant and bursting with zingy heat makes the Prawn Sambal a standout but I daresay the Mutton Peratal, Chicken Curry and Fish Curry prove on-point too. Chicken Pirattal (RM8), Fish Cutlet, Chicken Varuval, and Fried Tenggiri (RM12) are also available.

For a taste of authentic Jaffna street food, try the house speciality of Chicken Kothu (RM10) — chopped fried roti with spices, onion, leek, scallion and egg. In Sri Lanka, street vendors hawking this popular steet food are a common sight.

Its enticing, smoky taste is similar to local char kway teow. At Yarl, you can order Vegetarian Kottu (RM7) as well as Egg (RM8), Prawn (RM15) or Mutton Kottu (RM12) prepared with a choice of Roti, Puttu or Idiyappam.

Since Yarl opens early for breakfast, it won’t be remiss to start the day with Puttu (RM2.50) or Red Puttu (RM4), freshly steamed cylinders of white or red rice flour and grated coconut. The typical Jaffna way to savour puttu is complement it with side dishes of Dhal and Vendhaya Kulambu (fenugreek curry).

Special mention must be made of the Appam here. Light and crisp at the edges with a soft, pillowy centre, the Sweet Appam (RM2.50) sprinkled with brown sugar and coconut cream is sublime as an afternoon tea treat or dessert. The richer-tasting Egg Appam (RM3) is no less delectable although Sri Lankans tend to eat it with curry or sambal.

For more information, please call YARL RESTAURANT, tel: 010-360 6624. Address: 50 Jalan Pedang Belia, Brickfields, Kuala Lumpur.

MODERN INDIAN APPEAL AT GOA BY HUBBA

Right off the bat, the cracker of an opener, Papadum with Peanuts & Moong Dhal Salsa (RM10) hints at what lies in store at GOA by Hubba. Heaped with the Goan-style salsa of diced tomatoes and onion, peanuts and lentils, the round, blistery discs of Indian crackers deliver a sampling of celebrity chef Sapna Anand's modern Indian delicacies.

After tasting success with her Modern Indian Kitchen cookbook, Sapna has gone on to helm her own cooking show on the Asian Food Channel. Serendipity soon led the celeb chef and cookbook author to collab with the Soul Society Group, resulting in GOA by Hubba, a restobar nestled within Tujo at the Ascott Kuala Lumpur. The rustic haven boasts bright floral arrangements and tables set with copper crockery, creating a convivial stage for Sapna’s curated menu to shine.

 

Even the cocktail list features inventive spice-infused concoctions, a bid to evoke the ebullient spirit of Goa, Sapna’s home turf. I’m thoroughly smitten by the tastebud-tickling Rasam Shooter (tray of 6, RM38) — raveworthy shots of tequila, rasam mix, lime juice, mint syrup, tabasco, honey, pop rocks and salt.

 

Mama Manca (RM38) — a rockin’ blend of lemon juice, ginger syrup, turmeric syrup & a dash of cayenne pepper is a riotous slew of warm, robust flavours. Other bona fide faves include flavoured martinis and mojito variants.

 

Mumbai’s famous Chowpatty Beach with its profusion of beachside snacks is the inspiration behind the faintly smoky-sweet Chowpatty Fire Roasted Corn (RM16). Daubs of herbed cheese dip spiked with chilli lime salt amp up the appeal of those slightly charred corn cob.

 

Pillow-soft Chinese steamed buns form a sensuous alliance with shredded, slow-cooked spiced mutton, fried shallot & coriander to create the distinctive Mutton Floss Mantou (RM26). The Vegetarian Mantou (RM20) isn’t shabby either as the tasty spiced cauliflower, pepper, caramelised onion and coriander in similar buns grab its fair share of gustatory interest.

 

Hot on the heels come toothsome Goan Stuffed Squid (RM28) in which whole grilled squid, stuffed with minced prawn in housemade Goan spice paste, jostle for equal attention.

 

 

Presented at the tableside with blazing fanfare, the Grilled Cauliflower with Smoked Sauce (RM28) is a literal conversation-stopper. Once the server singes the mound of cauliflower, a tide of lush savouriness and fresh green sweetness floods our palate thanks to the mildly smoked fennel tomato sauce and a sprinkle of parmesan on top.

 

The sensorial overload continues when we sample the Kashmiri Lamb Chops (RM95).

Redolent with the deep-seated accents of Goa’s housemade spice blend, the meaty cutlets are delectable when smeared with mint chutney.

When the Garlic Butter Prawns (RM58) reach our table, the offering seems a tad underwhelming although we can’t fault the freshwater prawns in creamy garlic butter sauce. Surprisingly, the Stir-fried Bhindi (RM20) holds its own possibly because the jumble of crispy okra, chickpeas, onion, dried chilli and spices proffer more distinct textural variations.

The complexities of Indian spice blends can never be underestimated, requiring years of practice and in-depth knowledge to master. All we know is the Goan favourite of Beef Vindhalho (RM28) requires yet another multitude of traditional Vindhalho spices to spark off the dish’s cachet of big, stimulating flavours.

Likewise, an aromatic and punchy tandoori spice marinade left a deeply nuanced imprint in the Tandoori Chicken Chop (RM33). Served with mint chutney, every mouthful of the tender chook sets our tongues a-tingling with subtle hotness and zingy spiciness.

Our meal epilogue centres on Homemade Ice Cream (RM16) which runs the gamut from mango or rose to candied peanut & caramel. Top of the picks goes to the sweetly scented Rose Ice Cream. The Candied Peanut & Caramel is decent too although its allure pales slightly in comparison once you savour the floral flavour.

For reservations, call GOA by Hubba, tel: 017-786 7611. Address: 9, Ascott Kuala Lumpur, Jalan Pinang, Kuala Lumpur. Open daily from 6pm to 1am.