HERALDING HAIRY CRAB SEASON AT ELEGANT INN

Although unfathomable, there are people who prefer a ‘hands free’ way of savouring hairy crabs. Elegant Inn HK Cuisine’s the 6-course Hairy Crab Roe and Abalone Set (RM368++ per person, min 2 diners per table) will fulfill this desire with aplomb.

The indulgent set will allow you to do what Hong Kongers - well-heeled or otherwise - fervently enjoy i.e. yue chi lou farn, literally dousing shark’s fin with rice. It's a popular euphemism for enjoying in the high life. The set menu’s penultimate course of Braised Hairy Crab Roe with Golden Coin Shark’s Fin with ‘Lou’ Rice is guaranteed to be a conversation-stopper.

But I digress. Our dining party experienced first-hand, both Elegant Inn’s two Hairy Crab Set menus. For the Hairy Crab Roe and Abalone Set, a triumvirate of sublime appetisers: a shot glass of smooth Steamed Silky Egg with Hairy Crab Roe, Golden Curry Sesame Prawn Roll, and E.I. Crispy Vegetarian Rice Roll started our party rolling with a big bang.

Every spoonful of that crab roe laden steamed egg sent shivers of delight down our spine. The crisp prawn roll tantalised with its British-style aromatic, sweetish curried filling. E.I.’s perennial smooth rice roll with its crisp centre, for textural and flavour contrasts rounded up this platter.  

Sampling the collagen-rich Claypot Soup of Shark’s Fin Cartilage, Pork Rib Soup with Fish Maw and Bamboo Pith, we couldn't get enough of the broth's flavourful depth and rich umaminess.

I have yet to meet anyone who’d turn down a sumptuous dish of Braised 7-head South Africa Abalone. At E.I. you know you're getting the good stuff thanks to the lady proprietress' exacting standards.

Complemented by slices of Pan Seared Spanish Iberico Pork and Handmade Fish Curd in Abalone Sauce, the premium shellfish's natural marine-sweetness and melt-in-the-mouth tenderness was simply orgasmic. The rich-tasting Iberico pork was a masterstroke as the pork not only soaked in the complex sauce but also amplified the nuances whilst the puffy fish curd was a delicate work of deft culinary skills.

Stronger, heartier flavours prevailed in the Kaffir Lime Garlic Fried Spring Chicken. Fleeting whiffs and accent of the fresh citrusy lime in the fried spring chicken was discernible. Crispy garlic bits brought pops of faint sweet pungency to each mouthful.

Words aren't adequate to describe that superbly sublime serving of Braised Hairy Crab Roe with Golden Coin Shark’s Fin with ‘Lou’ Rice. That fluffy, lightly fried rice with slivers of egg stirred with lustrous hairy crab roe and shark's fin-imbued broth will leave you on otherworldly gastronomic heaven.

A flaky light Bird’s Nest Egg Tartlet accompanied by a bowl of nourishing dessert broth of Double Boiled Snow Pear with Chuanbei Citrus Peel left us happily satiated.

To satisfy true-blue hairy crab fans, E.I. pulls out the stops with a 6-course Hairy Crab Set (RM268++ per person, min of 2 per table).

The opening salvo of Porcini Smoked Farm Egg (add French Goose Liver for RM28) gave the Happy Start platter a slightly different, more solid taste dimension. Along with Golden Curry Sesame Prawn Roll and E.I. Crispy Vegetarian Rice Roll, the harmonious trio acted as nice precursors of the other goodies in store.

Providing tonic for the soul is Claypot Soup of Shark’s Fin Cartilage and Pork Rib Soup with Fried Fish Maw and Bamboo Pith. Smoother textural interest can be amped up with 'far kaw' or Fish Maw at an additional RM30.

It was such a luxury having a team of service experts to crack and prepare the leading ‘star’, a 5-tael Steamed Live Hairy Crab for us to savour. Nowadays, it seems the amount of roe in these crabs are down to luck of the draw.

 

Sometimes male crabs (look for a bell-shape pattern on its underbelly) have more of that creamy yellow-orange roe. The roe of female crabs tends to appear reddish-orange, in firmer clumps but no less delectable. We were told in China hairy crabs are available year-long but they're at their prime eating quality between late September and early November.

After the E.I. team efficiently handled the requisite prep work, we feasted like royalty, feasting with ease: merely scooping up the roe and picking the bits of sweet flesh from the legs and claws to sample. Hot cups of warming Bentong ginger tea helped to balance the cooling effects of eating those salubrious crabs.

Our tastebuds readily welcomed the robust dimension of the crispy Kaffir Lime Garlic Fried Spring Chicken. Most certainly a welcome change after the earlier, more delicate spectrum of texture and flavour. 

Braised Hot & Sour Handmade Noodles with a whole Crunchy Oyster awakened our tastebuds to vividly piquant accents.

From the delightfully silky, toothsome noodle strands to the tantalising tart-tangy and slightly punchy broth, we had nothing but high praises for the dish. The splendid finishing touch was a whole Japanese oyster, enticingly sheathed in ethereal crisp-crunchy batter.

 

Double Boiled Snow Pear with Chuanbei Citrus Peel and Osmanthus Sea Coconut Pumpkin Pudding rounded off our meal on a splendid albeit mutedly sweet note.

 

Fans of hairy crabs can feast to their hearts’ content at Elegant Inn HK Cuisine where two set menus are available until early November 2023.

For reservations at Elegant Inn HK Cuisine, call tel: 03-2070 9399. Address: 2.01, 2nd Floor, Podium Block, Menara Hap Seng, Jalan P. Ramlee, Kuala Lumpur.

THAI ISAAN TEMPTATIONS AT MERA

Coated in airy-light wisps of batter, the crispy catfish with green mango and cashews or Yam Pa Dok Ko (RM48), is the show-stealer at Mera. The huge chunks of deep-fried catfish form a sublime combination with a tart-salty-tangy salad of shredded mango, onion and roasted cashews.

While most Thai restaurants in the Klang Valley serve central Thai food, mostly Bangkok-style, we rarely come across any Thai resto showcasing Isaan food. Now, Mera at Damansara Kim has an Isaan-born chef at the helm, tasked with ensuring the authentic essence of Isaan cooking is retained whilst catering to Malaysian palates.

Dishes from the North-eastern Thai province of Isaan flaunt bolder, more robust flavours: making them spicier and sourer. Culinary influences from Laos and Cambodia also hold sway, with fresh herbs such as lemongrass, galangal, lime, chillies and garlic commonly used. Glutinous rice is another staple; a perfect vessel to capture those punchy, vibrant flavours.

Aside from the memorable crispy catfish salad, Mera serves several typical Isaan salads. Topping the list is Som Tum (RM38), fresh and crunchy Isaan-style young papaya salad with full-blown spicy-briny-sour-garlicky accents. Cherry tomatoes add a tinge of fruitiness to it. 

Another popular option is Larb Moo (RM48), spicy-salty minced pork salad seasoned with fish sauce, chilli flakes, lime juice and assorted fresh Thai herbs. However, the one we tried tasted somewhat underwhelming so if you prefer a no-holds-barred version, let the Mera team know.

Happily, the flavour quotient is dialled back up by Tom Sap, hot and sour pork soup. Thanks to the various aromatics: sawtooth coriander, cilantro, lemongrass, dried chillies, onion and tomatoes, this clear, sweet tom yum soup gets the thumbs up.

Grilled Isaan sausages or Sa Kork Isaan (RM48) are also worth sampling. The stuffing is made using fermented pork mince, rice and garlic, and laced with strands of glass noodles, rendering the sausages with a distinct tang. This popular Isaan street food snack is usually enjoyed with chopped bird’s eye chilli, raw cabbage or cucumber and cut ginger.

Fat. Lean. Gelatinous. These varied meat textures make Kao Ka Moo (RM48), a comforting dish of braised pork trotter with hardboiled egg utterly delectable and soul-satisfying. To counter any discernible meaty richness, we savour the melt-in-the-mouth chunks of pork with blanched greens, pickles and a zingy house made chilli dip.

Kor Moo Yang (RM58) – barbecued pork neck is another crowd-pleaser. The pork slices look rather lean at first glance but on closer inspection, they bear an irresistible layer of fat on top, amplifying the pork’s juiciness. A salty-sweet chilli and toasted rice dip helps to boost the smoky, fatty taste profile.

The flavoursome party continues with Moo Yang Nam Tok (RM48), spicy and sour grilled pork salad. Tossed with shallot, cilantro, lemongrass, mint, basil, and crushed roasted rice; each stimulating mouthful leaves us hankering for more.

 

Speckled with aromatic fried garlic bits, Gai Yang (RM48) – Isaan-style grilled chicken cuts a swath with us too. Marinated with lemongrass and fish sauce, the juicy and tender chook comes accompanied by a tantalising dip of lime juice, fish sauce, chilli flakes, palm sugar, chopped coriander and toasted rice.

Steamed with lime, chilli and garlic, the deliciously tender squid dish of Pla Muk Meung Manao (RM68) instantly reels us in with its bold, piquant flavours. It’s irresistible when paired with the scrumptious Crispy Pork Fried Rice (RM38). We can’t get enough of the fluffy, wispy egg-coated fried rice studded with cubes of crispy pork crackling.

 

Pandan juice and pumpkin purée bestow jade green and cheery orange hues for the dessert of glutinous rice balls in sweetened coconut milk. Known as Bua Loy (floating lotus in Thai), the soft and slightly chewy balls, interspersed with strips of jackfruit in the coconut milk, broth prove nice and light yet interesting enough as a sweet conclusion to our meal.

Currently, an a la carte menu is available at Mera. Diners with advance reservations may ask for the chef’s table, featuring a specially composed menu priced from RM150++ upwards per person.

 

For reservations, call MERA, tel: 018-268 2333. Address: 6, Jalan SS20/10, Damansara Kim, Petaling Jaya, Selangor.