THAI ISAAN TEMPTATIONS AT MERA

Coated in airy-light wisps of batter, the crispy catfish with green mango and cashews or Yam Pa Dok Ko (RM48), is the show-stealer at Mera. The huge chunks of deep-fried catfish form a sublime combination with a tart-salty-tangy salad of shredded mango, onion and roasted cashews.

While most Thai restaurants in the Klang Valley serve central Thai food, mostly Bangkok-style, we rarely come across any Thai resto showcasing Isaan food. Now, Mera at Damansara Kim has an Isaan-born chef at the helm, tasked with ensuring the authentic essence of Isaan cooking is retained whilst catering to Malaysian palates.

Dishes from the North-eastern Thai province of Isaan flaunt bolder, more robust flavours: making them spicier and sourer. Culinary influences from Laos and Cambodia also hold sway, with fresh herbs such as lemongrass, galangal, lime, chillies and garlic commonly used. Glutinous rice is another staple; a perfect vessel to capture those punchy, vibrant flavours.

Aside from the memorable crispy catfish salad, Mera serves several typical Isaan salads. Topping the list is Som Tum (RM38), fresh and crunchy Isaan-style young papaya salad with full-blown spicy-briny-sour-garlicky accents. Cherry tomatoes add a tinge of fruitiness to it. 

Another popular option is Larb Moo (RM48), spicy-salty minced pork salad seasoned with fish sauce, chilli flakes, lime juice and assorted fresh Thai herbs. However, the one we tried tasted somewhat underwhelming so if you prefer a no-holds-barred version, let the Mera team know.

Happily, the flavour quotient is dialled back up by Tom Sap, hot and sour pork soup. Thanks to the various aromatics: sawtooth coriander, cilantro, lemongrass, dried chillies, onion and tomatoes, this clear, sweet tom yum soup gets the thumbs up.

Grilled Isaan sausages or Sa Kork Isaan (RM48) are also worth sampling. The stuffing is made using fermented pork mince, rice and garlic, and laced with strands of glass noodles, rendering the sausages with a distinct tang. This popular Isaan street food snack is usually enjoyed with chopped bird’s eye chilli, raw cabbage or cucumber and cut ginger.

Fat. Lean. Gelatinous. These varied meat textures make Kao Ka Moo (RM48), a comforting dish of braised pork trotter with hardboiled egg utterly delectable and soul-satisfying. To counter any discernible meaty richness, we savour the melt-in-the-mouth chunks of pork with blanched greens, pickles and a zingy house made chilli dip.

Kor Moo Yang (RM58) – barbecued pork neck is another crowd-pleaser. The pork slices look rather lean at first glance but on closer inspection, they bear an irresistible layer of fat on top, amplifying the pork’s juiciness. A salty-sweet chilli and toasted rice dip helps to boost the smoky, fatty taste profile.

The flavoursome party continues with Moo Yang Nam Tok (RM48), spicy and sour grilled pork salad. Tossed with shallot, cilantro, lemongrass, mint, basil, and crushed roasted rice; each stimulating mouthful leaves us hankering for more.

 

Speckled with aromatic fried garlic bits, Gai Yang (RM48) – Isaan-style grilled chicken cuts a swath with us too. Marinated with lemongrass and fish sauce, the juicy and tender chook comes accompanied by a tantalising dip of lime juice, fish sauce, chilli flakes, palm sugar, chopped coriander and toasted rice.

Steamed with lime, chilli and garlic, the deliciously tender squid dish of Pla Muk Meung Manao (RM68) instantly reels us in with its bold, piquant flavours. It’s irresistible when paired with the scrumptious Crispy Pork Fried Rice (RM38). We can’t get enough of the fluffy, wispy egg-coated fried rice studded with cubes of crispy pork crackling.

 

Pandan juice and pumpkin purée bestow jade green and cheery orange hues for the dessert of glutinous rice balls in sweetened coconut milk. Known as Bua Loy (floating lotus in Thai), the soft and slightly chewy balls, interspersed with strips of jackfruit in the coconut milk, broth prove nice and light yet interesting enough as a sweet conclusion to our meal.

Currently, an a la carte menu is available at Mera. Diners with advance reservations may ask for the chef’s table, featuring a specially composed menu priced from RM150++ upwards per person.

 

For reservations, call MERA, tel: 018-268 2333. Address: 6, Jalan SS20/10, Damansara Kim, Petaling Jaya, Selangor.

TOP CATCH SELECTION AT NELAYANKU

Pure fish broth, derived from boiling 100% sea fish bones for 8 hours, forms the base for most of the specialities served at NelayanKU restaurant which opened in December 2021, a stone’s throw away from the Pavilion Bukit Jalil.

NelayanKU is part of DTS Group, a self-sufficient seafood supply group with diversified businesses and interests in the aquaculture industry: from hatching, nursery, farming, and aquafeed R&D supply, to the processing and distribution of fresh and frozen seafood, and production of ready-to-eat and ready-to-cook seafood.

Founder Raymond Tea who hails from three generations of fisherfolk and farm-fishing family, aims to replicate the cherished taste of freshly caught fish and seafood he grew up with through the house specialities at NelayanKU.

Rich in vitamins and nutrients such as Omega-3, 6, 9 fatty acids, iodine, calcium, magnesium, zinc, phosphorus, collagen, and protein, the restaurant's signature fishbone soup takes pride of place here. This nutritious stock is the secret formula to many of NelayanKU's key dishes. 

Wading into the appetiser selection, we find Live Irish Oysters (RM4.80 per 50-70g pc, RM7.90 per 90-110g pc, RM10.80 per 125-150g pc) making a rare appearance. Served au naturel with wedges of fresh lemon, it's easy to appreciate the mollusks' fresh, unadulterated taste of the briny sea.

True to the 'waste not, want not' culture of humble fisherfolks, even parts of fish like barramundi wing (pectoral fin) are turned into tempting nibbles known as Myfisherman Wing (RM18.90). The crisp-fried fins yield delicately sweet and surprisingly fleshy meat when you bite into them.

Another stellar 'by-product' is Golden Right Leg (RM8.90) using shrimp feet. Lightly dusted in seasoned flour with salt and pepper, the delicious morsels are fried until they turn golden brown and crispy. 

Lemongrass, turmeric, and Korean-inspired hot & spicy marinades suffused tender chunks of barramundi for the Fish Skewer Set (RM26.90) with plenty of enticing flavours, making this a noteworthy curtain-raiser. Those fish skewers are delectable enough to savour on their own even without the house green chilli dip served alongside them.

Seafood congee at NelayanKU

Moving on the main meals, each Fisherman Set comes with a bowl of NelayanKU speciality soup with a choice of carbs, and a drink. A blend of spices and fish stock based on the founder's grandmother's recipe, results in a mildly spicy yet aromatic Fisherman Curry Soup (RM28.90) that's reminiscent of simple, downhome curries of yesteryears. 

 

Although it lacks the heavy richness of most curries, this humble version may appeal to those who enjoy its spicy-savoury taste. Plain rice serves as the main canvas to capture the curry’s nuances alongside the inherent sweetness of fish slices, la la clams, prawns, and squid rings. A topping of dried mini shrimps lends some crunch to the ensemble.

A blend of pumpkin purée and pure fish stock goes into the making NelayanKU’s Fish Bone Golden Soup (RM32.90). The thick, hearty broth brimming with the delicate sweetness of pumpkin makes it a splendid match with ramen. Again, the noodles are accompanied by fish slices, la la clams, prawns, squid rings and a topping of dried mini shrimps.

The Fisherman SSS or Asam Pedas Nelayan (RM28.90) is the restaurant’s take on Vietnamese-style hot and sour soup. Sliced onion and fresh lime wedges are the garnishes to perk up the broth. Sweetened by a slew of seafood, the mildly tangy broth exudes some heat to tickle your tastebuds.

You can also customise your own bowl of noodles: select original Fish Bone Soup (RM2.50), Fisherman Curry Soup (RM4.50), Fish Bone Golden Soup (RM5.50), Fish Bone Sour and Spicy Soup (RM3) or Soy Sauce (RM2.50), then combine it with your carb of choice: meehoon, crystal rice noodles (kuey teow), wantan noodles, ramen or rice. Depending on the choice and portion size, prices range between RM1.80 – RM4.50.

Enhance your customise bowl with a choice of sliced fish: barramundi, silver pompano, golden snapper, giant tiger garoupa or giant tiger garoupa fish head (RM7.90 – RM16.50 ranging between 60g-100g). Other varieties of seafood available include sea prawns (RM5.50-RM9.90), crab & cuttlefish balls (RM10.90), Alaskan scallops (RM6.90), clam meat (RM2.50), barramundi fish maw (RM10.90) and squid ring (RM2.90).

 

Fans of Curry Fish Head (RM69.90) will find ample succour in the chunks of giant tiger garoupa fish head, eggplant, long beans and tomatoes used to prepare the house speciality.

 

Dessert promises to be a unique affair with Myfisherman Collagen (RM9.90 each) puddings. The collagen is culled from the boiling of fish scales before selected ingredients such as red dates, soursop, passion fruit, steamed egg and chrysanthemum are added as flavourings.

Once refrigerated into jelly-like collagen, the chilled puddings become wholesome, nutritious dessert. The red date and chrysanthemum versions are pleasant for their delicate sweetness while the passion fruit’s mild tartness is a nice palate-cleanser.

The brightly lit, sleekly designed restaurant also incorporates DTS Home Mart – a one-stop retail shop for patrons to buy DTS group’s Ready-to-Cook (RTC) and Ready-To-Eat (RTE) seafood products, imported frozen seafood and fresh seafood such as oysters and lobsters from Europe, Asia and South America.

 

For more information, please call NelayanKu & DTS Home Mart, tel: +60 12-987 7855. Address: B-13-01, Pusat Perdagangan Bandar Bukit Jalil, Persiaran Jalil 7, KL. Business Hours：10 am – 10 pm. Website: http://www.nelayanku.com.my/  &  http://www.dtshomemart.com/