SAKURA SPRING BLOSSOMS FEST AT GENJI

Hanami or flower viewing time in spring draws both Japanese and tourists when sakura (cherry blossoms) are in full bloom. Chef Richard Teoh and the Genji team are pulling out the stops, to evoke the freshness of spring through a Sakura Spring Blossom Food Fest which lasts till end March.

Rape blossoms aka rapeseed or Japanese flowering mustard (yau choi in Cantonese) tops the list of seasonal ingredients featured. The veggie's mild bitter aftertaste was discernible from the get-go zensai of Maguro Nano Hana Nutta Ae. 

Essentially, blanched rape blossom stems are paired with tuna in miso sauce (RM39) to create the dish. With the greens serving as a neutral canvas, the rich meatiness of the seared tuna cubes was perked up by wasabi-spiked miso sauce, giving the ensemble a punchy zing.

Our palates got another surprising jolt from the speciality of Tai Usuzukuri (RM130). Feasting our eyes on the fan-shaped slices of fresh sea bream fillet, we were thrown by the unexpected burst of chilli heat from the house ponzu sauce. Go easy on this dip should you wish to appreciate the natural fish sweetness better.

More raw appeal appeared in the Premium Set of Sashimi Moriawase Tokuijo (RM380). It's advisable to leave the final selection to the chef’s discretion and allow him to pick the freshest and air-flown seasonal catch for your enjoyment. 

Ours comprised luscious slices of aji (horse mackerel), toro (fatty tuna), kanpachi (yellowtail), shake (salmon) and hotategai (scallops) speckled with tobikko.

After that surfeit of sashimi, we took to the custardy smooth Unagi Chawan Mushi (RM28) with warm gusto. The addition of grilled eel atop the steamed egg custard was a culinary masterstroke as the eel’s unctuous saucy sweetness layered extra depth to the delicate dish.

Another bout of spring fever prevailed in the droolworthy Wagyu Beef Nano Hana Maki (RM120). Teppan-cooked to perfectly charred smokiness, the thinly sliced Wagyu beef rolled with rape flower stems went down a treat.

Non-beef eaters may find Kue To Enoki Teppanyaki (RM85) a viable but no less tempting alternative. Although our serving of grilled grouper was overcooked,the bundles of enoki mushroom in yakiniku sauce remained toothsomely tender.

For a satisfying carb fix, we recommend the signature Unagi Avocado Ura Maki (RM72). We did a doubletake when the reversed roll with grilled eel, avocado, cucumber and lettuce appeared in the form of a celestial dragon. A major crowd-pleaser at Genji, the maki sushi proved substantial and heartily flavoured.

Minimalism ruled in the two final Sakura Spring Blossoms offerings: Nano Hana Tempura (RM45) and Hamaguri Jiru (RM28). Coated in light, crisp tempura batter, the rape blossoms had a nice, fresh crunch to them. We also enjoyed the clear, mildly umami clam soup with plump, juicy clams in it, faintly imbued by the citrusy tinge of yuzu zest .

Sweet ending to succumb to would be Black Sesame Ice Cream with Sakura Cheese Pudding. Adorned with a sprig of fresh sakura, the dessert duo made a pretty picture. We were smitten with the latter's delicate baby pink hue whilst piquing our interest with its unique texture, akin to a cross between panna cotta and light cheesecake. 

For reservations at Genji, call tel: 03-7955 9122 x 4071/4072 or visit www.ZestPJ.com

MUCH ADO ABOUT WAYGU AT FU RIN

At RM90 for 3 pcs, the Aburi Sushi Nigiri is a treat fit for a king or queen. Sprinkled with a savoury sauce, the generous slices of slightly seared Waygu beef we sampled were ultra-tender and juicy. The assertive freshness of chopped spring onion and delicate woodiness from threads of deep-fried leek added layers of flavours to the vinegared rice clumps too.

This serving of sublime beefy goodness beckons at Fu Rin Japanese Restaurant, Holiday Inn Glenmarie. It's one of the many dishes featured in the current Wagyu promotion which will run till further notice.

The famed marbling of this premium beef was clearly visible in every slice of Wagyu Beef Tataki (RM200). Served with shoyu wasabi dressing and a pile of crisp garlic flakes on the side, the meaty layers had a cluster of asparagus spears hidden underneath. Again it was a deftly prepared dish - the beef with its just right degree of doneness made an indelible impression.

Besides the two specialities mentioned above, diners can look forward to other Wagyu dishes such as Gyuniku Yasai Maki (Wagyu beef and vegetable rolls served with butter and soy sauce, RM280), Wagyu Steak Jyu (fried Wagyu sirloin with blended soy sauce served on bed of steamed rice, RM128), Udon Wagyu Beef (hot udon noodles with Wagyu, RM128), Trio Wagyu Beef (fried, grilled and teppanyaki Wagyu, RM280) and Wagyu Wafu Steak (fried Wagyu beef with teriyaki sauce, RM200).

I'm partial to fried rice so the portion of Wagyu Chahan (RM48) hit the spot for me. Bits of omelette, smoky minced garlic and that scrumptious beef raised this simple comfort food to gastronomic heights that would leave you 'ooh'-ing and 'aah'-ing at every mouthful.

 

Like melted butter...that was the impression I had when I bit into the cube of Teppan Wagyu (RM280). Moist, juicy and impossibly melt-in-the-mouth tender, the voluptous flavour coat the mouth with silky richness. The accompanying salad helped to offset the meaty indulgence.

Word has it the Sunday Brunch may be returning to the fold of Fu Rin soon. Buffet fans should keep their ears and eyes out for updates via the hotel FB page. 

FU RIN, HOLIDAY INN GLENMARIE, 1 JALAN USAHAWAN U1/8, SEKSYEN U1, SHAH ALAM, SELANGOR. Tel: 03 78025200

MODERN JAPANESE MEDLEY FROM MANMARU

 

My first encounter with robatayaki was at Keyaki – once a hotel's award-winning Jap resto but now defunct to the annals of my hotelling history. Like fashion, robatayaki has edged its way back into the city food scene; taking pride of place in modern Japanese restaurants like Manmaru which flaunts a robatayaki & bar on premise in the bigger and slicker Atria Shopping Mall.

Instead of just ocha (green tea), Manmaru entices diners to sip fancy cocktails and more sobering mocktails rustled up by the resto’s mixologists. Our drinks of choice: Yuzu Samurai (RM28), Spring Peach (RM25), Sparkling Ruby Calpis (RM15) and Lychee Sour Fizz RM15 are more than ample to keep spirits high.

 

Spurred by earnest owners who wish to make their restaurant's presence felt, head chef Danny Leow spearheads the Manmaru team, dishing up a dizzying selection that covers everything from Gozen Set Lunches (RM28-RM58) to mod-Nippon specialities.

 

With stiff competition, restaurateurs and chefs have to work so much harder to please and Manmaru takes the ‘feast for the eyes’ approach to new, detailed heights. Designed for social media sharing, the pretty as a picture Coral Bash Sarada (RM18) is just as nice to savour. The mound of tater mash ‘coral’ has tiny crabs, minute shrimps, pearly salmon roe, fish roe and strands of nori perched on it.

More Instagrammable eats appear in the dish of Salmon Ikura Millefeuille (RM45). The show-stopping composition is playful yet packs enough flavour and textural elements to reel us in. It’s a fun way of nibbling on crispy flatbread toasts heaped with diced salmon and salmon roe. A scattering of masago ‘caviar’ and a sawagani crab (subject to availability) complete the arty palette.

 

Simply delish...think of it as 'deconstructed' gyoza turned salsa

I like the clean almost minimalist preso of the Gyoza Kawa Age To Maguro Salsa (RM28) and Unagi Karaage (RM40) – two immensely likeable appetisers designed for sharing. Their uncomplicated tastiness amp up the appeal quotient several notches.

Pescatarians would snap at the Salmon Tataki Salad (RM35). With slices of lightly seared salmon playing peek-a-boo underneath a generous serving of fresh mixed leaves surrounded by a pool of olive green spinach dressing, you too would be clamouring for more salad days like this.

Manmaru’s Sashimi Moriawase (seven seasonal varieties @RM210) isn’t carve in stone selection-wise as the varieties served up each time changes according to market supply and season. Remember, there’s no such thing as cheap sashimi…

Likewise, Manmaru Nigiri Sushi Moriawase (RM150) follows the same maxim. Again it’s a visual masterpiece that resonates delicate, sublime accents. The picture alone is sufficient enough to ‘voice’ that proverbial thousand words.

Choice picks from the robatayaki bar appear as Kushiyaki Moriawase (RM68) – a stunning composition of various skewers threaded with crispy chicken skin, liver, beef bacon, chicken wing, salmon, king mushroom, scallop, smoked duck, beef and minced chicken balls. Looks good, tastes even better.

If you like the less is more approach, take your pick of seasonal fishes like Kasago (RM150/480g) from the ice-filled seafood counter where prized catches beckon. Grilled at the robatayaki, every morsel of the sweet flesh is picked clean from the rockfish.

Out to impress? Then you can’t go wrong with the dragon-shaped Lobster Roll (RM68) – a luscious maki roll fit for a king with shelled lobster, mango, cucumber, salmon roe and masago packed within vinegared rice.

Notable contenders for your wallet include Wagyu Teppanyaki (RM180) and Hotate Chawan Mushi (RM30); indulgent treats that should moo-ve beef enthusiasts and leave scallop lovers shell-syiok!

The zingy Volcano Roll (RM38) rocks too with its abundant filling: crab meat, salmon roe, avocado and cucumber drizzled with a creamy robust sauce.

Sakana Kami Yaki (RM58) - grilled snapper with beef bacon and seaweed baked in paper parcel with a creamy mustard sauce is one of the more inventive offerings available alongside Cream Korokke (RM22) – potato croquettes livened up with chopped onion, cream and seafood inside crisp breadcrumb crust.

Be prepared to fork out just a little more when dining at Manmaru but the creative efforts and quality should leave you walking away with a satisfied smile. 

For reservations at Manmaru, please call tel: 03-77331038. Address: G-26, Ground Floor, Atria Shopping Mall, Jalan SS22/23, Damansara Jaya, Petaling Jaya, Selangor.