A LI YAA - A SRI LANKAN SHOWCASE

My first encounter with Sri Lankan cuisine was at the Hilton Colombo which serves the widest selection curries, sambars and delicious delicacies native to this Pearl of the Indian Ocean. Throughout my week-long stay, almost every day saw a different array of tempting dishes for breakfast, lunch and dinner that I fell deeper in love with every bite I took.

Over an indulgent dinner at A LI YAA, I rediscovered those bright and aromatic flavours when the Seafood Kothu (RM28) hit the palate. A comfort food staple among Sri Lankans and an ingenious way of using leftover string hoppers, the fine spaghetti-like string hoppers made from unprocessed rice flour are fried with prawn, fish and vegetables.

Comfort food for Sri Lankans

As a country with the longest known history and a culture that encompasses the richness of language, religion and food, Sri Lanka's culinary essence is what A LI YAA brings to the table. A LI YAA which means elephant boasts a homely interior of rough-hewn and solid concrete bars coupled with raw, tactile walls and mellow lighting. The paintings and creative photographic works of Malaysia’s homegrown artists depicting the Sutra Dance Theatre’s artistic director Dato’ Ramli Ibrahim. are displayed for sale with proceeds going to the ‘Pinnawala Elephant Orphanage’ in Sri Lanka.

Chef Yogeshwaran Selladoreh helms the kitchen team while manager Sangeethan Sivagnanam leads attentive and dedicated waiters in ensuring diners are well looked after.

Aromatically spiced, the half round pieces of Fish Cutlets (RM16) were wickedly scrumptious as was the Sri Lankan Sambal Set (RM12). Served with a plate of crunchy papadums, the quartet of seeni (spiced sliced onion), katta (ground chilli and spice paste with salted Maldivian fish), pol (grated coconut) and karupillay (curry leaves) was so addictive.

The Lamb Rotti Rolls (RM16) − spice-marinated lamb and onions wrapped up in bread and deep-fried to seal in their piquant flavours also got us raving and hankering for more.

Our foray along the island’s spice route saw us savouring Chicken Peratal (RM18), marinated chicken & potato in a heady blend of traditional Sri Lankan spices. The delectable chunks were a match made in heaven with Plain Doosara Rotti (RM8), warm grilled flatbreads served with grated coconut, onion and mild chilli.

Colombo combo or go solo with the Mutton Paal Poriyal

Just when we though it couldn’t get any better, along came Mutton Paal Poriyal (RM26), incredibly tender lamb in devilish aromatic spices that even Hassan from that Hundred Foot Journey flick would approve of. If you opt for the Colombo Combo (RM32), you’d be replete as it comes served with rice, gravy, mixed vegetable of the day and seeni sambal.

I don’t have the patience to fuss over Sri Lankan Crab Curry (RM13.90 per 100gm) but hubs obviously loves it so I reckon the darkish curry is strictly for die-hard crabby fans.  

Prawn sothi-licious

My preference slants towards the mildly spiced, coconut milk-based creamy Prawn Sothi (RM28) scented with lemongrass, garlic, shallots and curry leaves and the robust Fish Curry (RM26); two dishes that evoked wonderful memories of my sojourn.

Brinjal Moju (RM12), deep-fried sliced brinjal with spices and a dash of vinegar is simply moreish and one of the better brinjal dishes I had in a while.

Touted as Sri Lankan’s version of nasi lemak, the Chicken Lumprais (RM24) is eclipsed by the earlier parade and tastes ho-hum. The baked rice wrapped in banana leaf is accompanied by your choice of a devilled dish from the menu, a sunny-side egg with roasted cashews and the day’s veg.

Sunshiny cheer in the form of an egg added to your sweet appam (above) or 
sprinkled with jaggery (bottom)

Things look up again with some Sweet Appams (4pcs for RM20) dusted with jaggery (unrefined palm sap sugar). You can also ask for plain, egg or sweet coconut milk versions. Even better is Vatilaapam (RM8) – a rich pudding of coconut milk, brown palm sugar, eggs and cinnamon to leave you on a sublime sugary high.

Sweet surrender...the custard-soft Vatilaapam

A LI YAA Island Restaurant & Bar, 48 G & M, Jalan Medan Setia 2, Bukit Damansara, Kuala Lumpur. Tel: +603-2092 5378

QURESHI - A ROYAL CULINARY PASSAGE TO INDIA

 

Dum - large claudrons filled with rice, meat, vegetables and spices then sealed and cooked to produce an unbelivably delicious one-dish meal to feed large groups of workers - was once a common dish until the 18th century Nawabs took a fancy to it. Fast forward to 200 years later, two brothers Mohammed Ashfaque and Mohammed Irfan Qureshi who are from the Nawabs' family of chefs rediscovered the secret of dum cuisine and refined it to majestic new heights.

The latest addition to the Qureshi restaurant empire is ensconced within the Kuala Lumpur Golf & Country Club (KLGCC). Opened during Ramadan this year, director Muhammad Ahsan Ali Qureshi shares how his father have carved a hallowed reputation for himself as a chef over four decades, and his four other brothers are emulating the family scion. "I'm the only one out of the kitchen and in the frontline," says Ahsan with a smile.

 

 As we sampled the restaurant's house drinks: Thandai (RM15) - a refreshing blend of milk with cardomom, almonds and saffron; Ambi Panna (RM15) - a summer cooler of raw mango, cumin and mint; Nimboo Nariyal (RM15) - coconut lemonade with tender coconut and mint and Lassi (RM15) - mango with yoghurt, Ahsan delves into the secrets of Qureshi's success. 

Brothers-in-arms...Ashfaque & Irfan Qureshi

"What makes us different is our meticulous and elaborate cooking methods, using handpicked spice mixtures and royal recipes of Mughal empresses. Our battalion of chefs are specialists of different dishes: kebabs, tandoor specialities, briyanis and dums while consistency is ensured from the standard spice blends the brothers have formulated and are produced in the family's own spice factories in India. Having established our footing in India and the Middle East, we're planning to expand further to Singapore, Indonesia and Australia with KL serving as this region's main outpost."

Seated in the private dining room, we got a good view that encompasses the opulently furnished dining area that can seat up to 85 persons. Even at its busiest period, the noise is noticeably muted by the plush carpeting, curtain drapery and linen-clad tables.

The 'star' dish (for me at least) has to be Tandoori Chicken (RM35) - a whole spring chicken marinated in aromatic tandoori spices and grilled to perfection. The marinade's deep-seated accents have permeated the moist, juicy meat so thoroughly that the juicy meat tasted sublime.

 

 After hearing Ashan waxing lyrical about the dum speciality of Raan E Qureshi (RM100), our curiosity was satisfied when the leg of mutton arrived. Once the sealed dough wrapping encasing the mutton was removed, we caught wonderful whiffs of the meat. Unsurprisingly, the meaty chunks were fall-of-the-bone tender, having been marinated in malt vinegar for 24 hours. Stuffed with onion, cheese and mint then cooked dum-style for 2-3 hours, it was served with roasted mushroom.

Good enough to be eaten on its own, the pot of Dum Lucknowi Biryani (RM45) also came sealed under a layer of dough. Again, when the covering was removed, a most appetising aroma rose from the mound of fluffy basmati rice perfumed with saffron, spices and marinated lamb; enticing us to dig in with gusto.

Simmered in rich, bright vermillion tomato cream flavoured with fenugreek, the sumptuous Butter Chicken (RM35) tasted lush on the palate; the thick, unctuous gravy enveloping our palate with a multitude of sweet, savoury and spicy nuances.

We mopped up the irresistible sauce with crisp yet flaky Lache Paratha (RM12) - swirly, thin mint-flecked paratha. The delicious flat breads also paired splendidly with the signature Dal Bukhara/Qureshi (RM30) - mildly hot stewed black lentils with tomatoes and aromatic spices, finished with butter and cream. You can douse the heat somewhat with Raita (RM10) - the restaurant's classic side dish of homemade yoghurt with cucumber (diners also have a choice of boondi, pineapple, tomato, mint or potato).

Dessert is taken equally seriously here but they are worth returning for. Try the Classic Rasmalai (RM20) - cottage cheese dumplings in saffron and pistachio reduced milk which boasted a slightly crumbly texture at first bite but soon yielded to dulcet smoothness in a twinkling.

Our initial skepticism was banished upon a bite of the Warm Carrot Halwa (RM15). Made from coarsely grated carrot cooked in milk instead of sugar, it is complemented by some super creamy, mildly sweet pistachio kulfi.

Spongy without the usual cloying sweetness is Gulab Jamun (RM20). Presented in a cocktail glass filled with diced fresh fruits, it's the perfect treat to conclude your outing to Qureshi on a sugary high.

QURESHI - Ground Floor, East Wing, Kuala Lumpur Golf & Country Club, no.10, Jalan 1/70D, Off Jalan Bukit Kiara, KL. Tel: 03-2011 1007. Opening hours; Daily except Mondays from 1130am-230pm; 630pm-1030pm.

FOOD, FUN & FROLIC AT OPIUM

Like the heady drug it's named after, Opium is the latest venture under Werner Kuhn's F&B group that has taken the KL scene by storm. The al fresco patio crowded with mainly corporate types look innocent enough until you step into its retro-inspired, Chinois-accentuated confines that mimic a dimly lit, bodacious den with a warren of semi-hidden pavilions, private rooms and cosy nooks. Whether it's food, fun or frolics, Opium is conceived to feed those addictions with a large dose of chutzpah thrown in.

Lifting our spirits up from the get-go is Peking Man (RM32), an imaginative concoction of vodka with Pu Er tea, longans, lime juice, egg white and orange bitters. Slightly foamy at first sip, the alcoholic punch soon kicks in after the quirky sweet, sour and faintly bitter accents. Best not to chug everything at once unless you're looking to make happy hours far happier than usual.

From the Twisted Classics repertoire comes Concubine's Batida (RM28), another potent blend of cachaca (a distilled spirit made from sugarcane juice), lime juice, fresh pineapple and sugar. We love the inventive presentation too; a far cry from the ho-hum cocktail glasses and normal dish of peanuts.

Front to back: Lamb patties, ikan bilis fritters and salt&chilli squid

As and when hunger pangs strike, fear not. Depending on your mood or appetite, the ambitious menu is expansive enough to cover all bases; from all day & night snacks and tummy warmers to noodles and mains. Our selection of Lamb Patties (RM18), Ikan Bilis Fritters (RM12) and Salt & Chilli Squid (RM15) turn out good in some parts, not so in others.

Lightly smothered in melted cheese, the savoury and faintly gamey lamb patties are the most agreeable. Slightly floury in texture with the wrong type of anchovies used, the fried anchovy fritters  fall short of expectations. The squid at least is nicely springy despite being unevenly salted. The marketing team duly noted our feedback and promised remedial action.

 

Two gems that hit the spot are the Lemongrass Sticks (RM12) and Chicken&Beef Satay (RM18, 1/2 dozen). Sheathed in a skein of fu chuk (beancurd skin) and enrobed around lemongrass stalks, the skewers of deep-fried minced chicken and squid are incredibly addictive especially when dipped into the house robust chilli sauce. The deep-seated marinade helps to score some extra points for the satay too.

You may blanch at forking out a handsome sum for the Opium Wantan Noodles (RM28) but it's a 'pimped up' version that won't be found at any hawker, kopitiam or resto in town. Buried under a pile of crispy deep-fried spinach and oyster mushroom, the toothsome, ultra-fine noodles lightly tossed in soya sauce and some sauteed minced chicken is a surprisingly 'star' dish that draws rave reviews.

Coming in a close second is Crispy Duck Noodles (RM28), an ambrosial offering comprising crunchy deep-fried noodles in viscous egg sauce with chopped duck meat and spring onion. Several slices of smoked duck breast lend the naughty noodles additional pizzazz.

The Curry Spaghettini (RM28) is scrumptious too save for the undercooked brinjal. Otherwise, the piquant spiciness and creamy coconut-rich gravy make this highly recommended.

Another dish that rocks is Fern Leaf Salad with Grilled Prawns (RM24); a tempting local salad which has wild local fern tips (pucuk paku) dressed in a tantalising sambal sauce scented and flavoured with ginger flower, coconut, shallot and lime juice. With succulent grilled prawns ramping up its appeal, this is a surefire winner in our book.

Equally notable are Grilled Chicken Wings (RM15), a favourite snack with drinkers but the ones here really soar high after being spiked with chilli, lemongrass and assorted spices. They taste similar to Buffalo wings albeit with well-balanced, Asian-centric flavours. 

If you enjoy souping up, you'd lap up the Peppery Lamb Soup (RM18). Simple and comforting, the spice-scented broth has cubed lamb, carrot and potato with a sprinkling of coriander and fried shallot to boot.

More adventurous diners may wish to foray into the IndoChinese realm through the Stewed Chin Baung Chicken (RM35); braised chicken that credits its appetite-whetting allure to a type of fresh herb known as kenaf leaves from Myanmar. A discernible lush lemony tang prevails, making it distinctly outstanding.

Closer to home is Wagyu Rendang (RM38), a delectable serving of robustly spiced, tender Wagyu beef. Turmeric and kaffir lime leaves in the timeless rendang dish evoke a truly festive feeling; it's as if we're celebrating Hari Raya all over again.

The spice trail leads further to some scrumptiously Creamy Butter Prawns (RM42). Instead of dry and gritty flecked or wispy egg battered crustaceans, the prawns are enrobed in a wickedly rich coating of milk, butter, chilli, garlic and curry leaves. They hit all the right notes and are best enjoyed with some poppy seed rice or lotus leaf buns.

The good vibes continue with a nod to Cod in Curry Sauce (RM38). You'd think the fish would be too oily for such creamy treatment but the chef has gone light and easy on both spice and coconut cream quotients so the inherent fish sweetness is aptly safeguarded. Definitely a winner this.

 

Meat lovers would find ample satisfaction in the hearty options of Beef Brisket & Tendon Stew (RM35) and Braised 5-Spice Duck (RM35). The former is another classic comforting crowd-pleaser with melt-in-the-mouth tender brisket and tendon stewed in soya and oyster sauces, star anise, cinnamon and king oyster mushroom. Some dried chillies are included to inject the combo with bursts of zesty heat.

 

Duck fans would go quackers over the latter; super-tender breast meat redolent with the muted sweetness of five spice, white radish and cranberry jus. The gravy is really the high point when it's drizzled over the poppy seed-studded rice.

 

The Sweet Stuff showcases Cheesy Banana Fritters (RM18) which will have you going bananas over them. Flecked with grated aged cheddar and banana ice cream, it's a sublime combo of hot and cold, sweet and salty on a plate...yums!

 

You can also chill out with (pix below, left-right): Opium Ice Glass Special (RM18), Sago Gula Melaka (RM15) and Melon Ice (RM15) for more sugary high.

Opium's version of ais batu campur (ABC) in a glass consists of shaved ice, grass jelly, waterchestnuts, basil seeds, peanuts, corn, mung bean paste, coconut milk, melted gula melaka (palm sugar syrup) and coconut ice cream. A superb blend of textural contrasts and delightful sweetness that brooks no competition or dietary willpower.

Strips of jackfruit add a nice dimension to the perennial trinity of sago pearls, coconut milk and gula melaka while more sago pearls and coconut milk upped the interest factor in the Melon Ice. Trust me, everyone is bound to raise a glass or two or three anytime to these irresistible dessert.

OPIUM, 50, Changkat Bukit Bintang, Kuala Lumpur. Tel: 03-2142 5670