INTERCONTINENTAL KL PRESENTS KWON-TEMPORARY K-CUISINE

Edward Kwon with InterContinental KL's executive chef Sam Kung

Edward Kwon, one of South Korean’s top celebrity chefs tops InterContinental KL choice to debut its World Celebrity Chef Series. The charismatic Kwon whose popstar good looks and contemporary Korean cuisine is set to thrill gourmands from 21 to 24 April 2015.

Last night the dashing chef held court at TATSU (catch him today and tomorrow from

6:30pm to 10:30pm), teasing media and bloggers with an exquisite four course menu (RM298 nett per person, RM398 nett inclusive of Penfolds wines).

The curtain-raiser is a choice of Hae Mul Nang Chae (seafood salad) or Soft Bean Curd with Korean herbs, black sesame dressing and crispy garlic. I chose the former – a pretty wreath of pear, lettuce leaves and cucumber interspersed with chilled prawns and scallops. A scattering of puffed barley lent crunch whilst a subtly savoury, nutty sesame sauce enlivened the seafood’s natural sweetness.

Penfolds Autumn Riesling complements the refreshing curtain-raiser of Hae Mul Nang Chae

From the spoonful of my friend's bean curd appetiser, I found the pure, clean canvas brightly punctuated by toasty, woody and sweet-garlicky accents. A singular piece of lightly battered lotus root and a tiny cluster of greens provided the finishing touches to this creation.

East met West artfully in the Foie Gras Douen Jang Veloute - a rather indulgent soup course crowned with a dainty piece of seared foie gras. Reminiscent of liquidy goose liver, the broth's voluptuous richness was tempered by the chef's tangy kimchi apple slaw whilst toasted pine nuts and a drizzle of crown daisy oil boosted its silky sweetness. 

Did you know that crown daisy is a herb from the chrysanthemum family prized for its sweet aroma, hence its popularity as an essential oil? Crown daisy oil apparently aids digestion and internal body detox besides regulating water metabolism in our bodies.

The evening's show-stopping 'Bul Go Gi' Steak shows Kwon's ingenuity at marrying his native Korean culinary traditions with modern European techniques and ingredients. He did justice to the prime Aussie ribeye presenting it with Korea's famed bulgogi sauce - a mixture of soy sauce, sugar, sesame oil, garlic and pepper (amongst others). 

Served medium rare on a bed of pureed potato, the bite-sized cubed steak was incomparable; tender, juicy and suffused with sublime savoury-sweetness. The slice of grilled eringi was the proverbial cherry on this delectable beefy 'cake'.

Presented in a narrow elongated plate, the pretty Yuzu Curd dessert was a visual and edible feast. Bursts of tanginess from the creamy citron-infused curd awakened the senses amidst an exquisite milieu: cottony-soft tufts of bokbunja (Korean raspberry wine) chiffon, nut tuile shards, black sesame ice cream and dottings of green tea and basil fluid gel. 

Thanks to several high-profile culinary ambassadorships, best-selling cookbooks and appearances on popular radio and TV shows, Edward Kwon is widely recognised outside Korea. Having held senior culinary positions in luxury hotels in South Korea, United States, China and United Arab Emirates including the Head Chef position at Dubai’s iconic Burj Al Arab, the charming culinary maestro currently runs two restaurants in Seoul - the luxury Lab XXIV in Cheongdam-dong and The Mixed One, a buffet dining outlet in Hannam-dong. 

An Up-Close & Personal Gala Dinner with Chef Edward Kwon will be held on 24 April 2015, 7:00pm at the Grand Ballroom, Level 2 of InterContinental KL. Priced at RM490nett per person inclusive of selection of PENFOLDS wines. For reservations, call 03-2782 6000.

TOP PICKS FROM TOPSHELF

Out of the slew of new a la carte offerings rustled up by Topshelf's youthful chef cum owner Christopher Yee, I'd be tempted to return for that crisp-skinned Orange Quail (RM27). 

Nestled on a bed of fried shredded leek accompanied by bacon hash topped with a shivery poached egg, it's that kind of soul-satisfying dish that leaves you in a happy, weak-kneed stupour. We love the quail's inherent gaminess (a bare whisper on the palate) and that runny egg yolk that amplifies the sublime flavour of the to-die-for bacon hash.

The heavy evening downpour that heralded our recent visit to this mod French-Italian bistro in TTDI was made bearable by a comforting Prawn Bisque (RM16). A tot of brandy and a dollop of creme fraiche added extra allure to the orange-hued broth with its heartwarming crustacean sweetness. Even this non-soup fan was tempted to paraphrase Oliver Twist's plaintive cry of "please sir, may I have some more?" had I not been distracted by the next exquisite dish of diver scallop.

Now, the uninitiated may quibble at paying such a hefty price for Hand Dived Scallop (RM30) but honestly, this delicate shellfish costs more because it's hand collected by divers who care about the sea and sustainable fish/seafood stock; an eco-friendly practice that's kinder to the environment just like line-fishing.

Lightly pan-fried to caramelise its edges, the plump scallop barely needs embellishment save for some delicate threads of braised leek and miso eggplant in white wine that blend marvellously with its pristine sweetness.

Seared to medium doneness, the juicy and tender Roasted Rack of Lamb (RM55) is another splendid speciality that should spur repeat visits. Complemented by chargrilled broccoli salad, potato puree and jus, you'd pick the bones clean off this subtly smoky and meaty rack.

Boost your green quota with Apricot & Nut Salad (RM25), a crowd-pleasing assortment of healthy lettuce and rocket, sliced cucumber and cherry tomatoes with apricot dices, parmesan shavings and nut vinaigrette.

Homely French comfort food such as Duck Cassoulet (RM38), Pot-Au-Feu (RM43), Iberico Loin (RM56) and Baked Snapper (RM40) also rule the roost in the latest menu.

According to Larousse Gastronomique, cassoulet originates from Languedoc but its recipe varies from region to region. There is even a decree in 1966 which stipulated that a cassoulet should comprise 30% pork (which can include sausage), mutton or preserved goose; 70% haricot beans and stock, fresh pork rinds, herbs and flavourings.

Chef Christopher's Duck Cassoulet warms the cockles of your heart with a whole seared duck leg confit augmenting the deep-seated flavours emanating from the chunky stew of cannellini beans, cubed potato, sliced sausage, bacon and tomato.

Provencal veggies and white while bouillon form a rustic base that captures the natural sweetness and soft flaky texture of the Baked Red Snapper. This simple preparation should reel in fish lovers who prefer their catch served in its entirety, complete with head and bones intact.

If you prefer to avoid dealing with bones, we recommend the Iberico pork loin. Roasted and served with pureed potato and sauteed veggies with some mushroom, the tender, juicy meat is a breeze to savour.

Pot-au-feu is a meal in itself for most French; a tasty classic winter warmer with a melange of textures and flavours due to the inclusion of various meat cuts, veges (carrot, turnips,  onion, leeks and celery are the norm) and aromatic herbs. The serving we sampled packed a noticeably beefy accent with a lingering savoury aftertaste.

Four types of pasta are listed in the menu, to satisfy die-hard carb lovers who can't bear to go without. Despite its minimalist approach, the Pesto Capellini (RM30) is a notable choice with the delicate pasta strands scented with truffle oil and fetchingly graced with Topshelf's house concocted pesto and a shower of parmesan shavings.

Dessert saw us foraying into Christopher's 'chocolate factory' where devilishly decadent treats like Chocolate Fondant (RM21) and Chocolate & Coffee Cremeux (RM19) held us spellbound. I'm partial to the melt-in-the-mouth goodness of the former - an impossibly airy-light yet lushly smooth creation using Valrhona 70% accompanied by chocolate 'soil' and vanilla ice cream.

Olive oil, maldon sea salt and berry compote lend distinct finesse to the chef's Chocolate & Coffee Cremeux, helping the 70% noir dark chocolate cream to coat the palate and leave a long-lasting impression of Topshelf's treasure trove of culinary gems.

For reservations at TOPSHELF, call tel: 03-7727 7277. Address: 61, Lorong Rahim Kajai 13, Taman Tun Dr. Ismail, Kuala Lumpur

FOR THE LOVE OF PORK AT EPICURO

Half a year has disappeared in a blink of an eye...but good times like good food often stay cherished in our memory despite the passage of time. It tickles me when this year, a bunch of us even celebrated Valentine's Day together, feasting over a slap-up V-Day dinner thanks to PureGlutton and Epicuro.

A casual, cheery outpost known for porky-licious offerings rustled up by engineer-turned-chef Yugin, our dining party was treated to Epicuro's special celebratory creations as well as its popular mainstays. 

Chef Yugin proves he can reel in compliments for fish and other meat dishes as he does with pork. The speciality of Spinach encrusted Seabass with Spiced Mango Salad (RM36.90) was a fine example - the boneless seabass smothered in blended spinach was delicate but cleverly perked up by the side of zingy cucumber-mango salad.

Red-blooded guys and thoroughly modern gals won't hesitate to declare their love for his delectable dish of Australian Grain-fed Ribeye (RM59.90). Meltingly tender with just enough toothsome resistance, the meat is substantial enough to leave one replete.

Heartier appetites will find ample comfort in Epicuro's famed Pork Chop (RM28.90) with Mushroom Cream Sauce - two slabs of juicy, brined pork cutlets doused in earthy, rich and fungi-flecked gravy.

I'm not big on Spaghetti Carbonara (RM18.90) but Epicuro's version is possibly one of the best I've had. Put it down to the al dente pasta, slicked with just enough mascarpone sauce to amplify the smoky brininess of real bacon bits. Break the yolk of the wobbly poached egg on top and voila! a sublime masterpiece is born.

We also had Vanilla Creme Brulee with Mixed Berries (RM13.90) to sweeten the evening's lovely mood. Custard-soft with the perfume of scorched caramel on the nose, its ethereal sweetness was fleeting but discernible on the palate.

Admittedly, it was no contest against the signature Tiramisu - a luscious dessert every Epicuro regular raves about, especially its heady 'pick me up' boozy accent.

There's also soft spongy Waffles with scoops of rich chocolate ice cream - a perennial delight that will easily win you over with its straightforward simplicity.

When it comes to decently priced Western food minus the frills, Epicuro fits the bill.

For reservations at EPICURO, call 03-77333110. The restaurant is located at 20 Jalan SS 21/35, Damansara Utama, Petaling Jaya, Selangor.

COMFORTING CHOICES AT HAWK & FISH

One doesn't go to a resto just for its kick-ass sambal but Hawk&Fish may just draw chilli fiends there for that reason. It's a casual eatery that strives to be one up from your local chap farn (economical rice) set-up - the resto's clean, air-cond and the local fare pricing is just a few ringgit more of what you'd pay at kopitiams.

 

We love the pub grub fare on the menu - they're perfect for Happy Hours when you can graze without overdoing it. The mod industrial concrete finishing and exposed ceiling sets the stage for wire-structured chairs and round glass tables coupled with some wooden dining furniture.

The first culinary chart-topper that bowled us over is The Pound Pork Balls (RM18, 3 pcs) - wickedly delish, oversized hand-made and fried minced pork balls with melted, stretchy mozzarella oozing out of them.

Wrapped in thin chive omelette and streaky bacon, you'd go barking mad over the Dogs In A Blanket...and Quilt (RM25) - devilishly scrumptious, chunky pieces of thick sausage enrobed in fluffy omelette AND crispy bacon strips. Trust me, the smoky-brininess and mellow oniony-sweetness meld so beautifully together, it's hard not to wax lyrical over it.

An assertive zingy hotness ensures the house speciality of Spicy Wings (RM20, 6 pcs) fly high with diners; a commendable Asian take on the Western classic of Buffalo wings.

Good wok hei breaths lively charred accent into the Char Kway Teow (RM15) here. The flat rice noodles take the fiery heat of the house sambal to heart, regaling one's palate with fiesty smoky hotness. Prawns, squid and beansprouts help to ramp up the deliciousness further. Diners can also opt to have the whole works  such as fried chicken wings (RM6) or a sunny-side up egg (RM2) thrown into the equation.

Fried rice fans would have much to cheer and chew on at this eatery. The Homespun Fried Rice (RM20) comes in three versions - spicy Pound special, Thai- or Chinese-style. Don't let its pared-down appearance fool you. Chilli fiends would find their tastebuds set alight by the unabashedly robust nuance especially for the hot ones; render to tongue-searing heights by the insanely hot house sambal. Besides chopped bacon bits (hurrah!), supporting cast for the rice dish includes fried chicken wings, a fried egg and more sambal.

Uncle Chee - a long-time TTDI resident and cook - does tour of duty for lunch with his range of chap farn staples. He's also instrumental for the presence of signature specialities such as Dry Style Bak Kut Teh (RM15), Ancestral Original BKT (RM15) and Herbal Wine Chicken (RM15) at Hawk&Fish.

Personally, I'd plump for wong jau gai (herbal wine chicken) any day. Mildly sweet with a warm boozy aftertaste, the chook with ginger, red dates and fresh coriander will give you a nice heady buzz. A comforting tummy warmer that should goes best with plain rice.

Admittedly, the hardcore Hokkien in me is ambivalent about the Dry Style BKT. Darkened by lashing of dark soya sauce and flavoured by local herbs and spices, the porky dish is agreeable. I guess I couldn't get pass that it looks more like tau eu bak - braised pork in dark soya sauce. But any urban singleton or small nuclear family who hankers for home-style offerings, this heirloom recipe of Uncle Chee's should satisfy familial food cravings.

Soup lovers would probably prefer Uncle Chee's Ancestral BKT as the milieu of pork, button mushroom, enoki, beancurd puffs and innards come bubbling hot in a claypot of herbal broth. Die-hard BKT fans may find the soup too mild for liking but as the owners tell us, it's good enough to assuage sudden BKT cravings especially when one can't run to Klang on a mere whim.

The only dish that didn't measure up during our visit was Fish & Chips (red snapper RM30, dory RM20). We found the fish fillet somewhat tough and leathery...it could have been a one-off hiccup so fans of this British classic should try this house speciality and judge for themselves.

Dessert is simple - you can try crisp Apple Pie that looks disconcertingly like those from a famous fast-food chain. 

Hawk&Fish is worth checking out - it's a viable alternative especially for lunch when you rather eschew fast-food or be hot and bothered eating at local kopitiams.

For reservations, call Hawk & Fish, hp no: 011-2627 6544 / tel: 03-7732 2328. The outlet is at 50 Jalan Tun Mohd Fuad 1, Taman Tun Dr Ismail, Kuala Lumpur. Business hours: Mon-Sat 11am-3pm; 6pm-11pm. Closed on Sunday.