SAVOUR THE FLAVOUR AT SWAADH

Crisp and flaky on the outside, fluffy with that barest hint of chewiness inside, Swaadh serves the best Kerala-style Paratha (RM2.50) ever. Our local roti canai is an evolution of this Indian bread; in this case the dough is folded into a spiral unlike roti canai which is folded into a square. Cooked using sunflower oil, Swaadh’s version is lighter but sublimely tasty.

If you’re a big on Indian food, make Swaadh your ‘must visit’ resto asap. In Hindi and Malayalam, Swaadh means “taste” or “tasty” – an apt description for the many wondrous dishes you’d find at this refined Indian food haven.

Owners Suresh Sushilan and Suren Navaratnam have stepped up to ensure Swaadh’s fine-dining concept stands apart from its competitors. Décor is minimal but enough to put diners at ease, with cream hued walls contrasting with the dark ceiling. The result is a cosy, warm ambience for dining in comfort.

Your passage to India is capably handled by Chef Rahul Krishnan whose decade old culinary experience is augmented by a team of trained chefs from Cochin, Kerala (India). Naturally, North Indian, Kerala and Chettinad specialities are the order of the day here.

 

 

In between sips of slushy Fresh Mint Lime Cooler (RM7.80), we chomped on Indian appetisers of Onion Pakora (deep-fried onion fritters, RM3.90), Chicken Dry Chilli Fry (RM9.90) and Mutton Coconut Fry (RM16.50) while waiting for the mains. The onion fritters were incredibly addictive while the meatier morsels set our tongues alight with a cacophony of spices and intermittent bursts of subtle heat.

The scene stealer is Butter Chicken Masala (RM12.50) – a house speciality which lured us back repeatedly with its complex layering of spices which shines against a canvas of rich, creamy gravy.

No two curries are created equal and the Chicken Methi (RM10.20) proves the chef is a master of spice; the dish’s striking turmeric yellow colour is a clear indication of how different it tastes from the earlier offering.

Lean mean chicken breast turns into superbly scrumptious chunks in the Northern Indian speciality of Hariyali Kebab (RM13.50). Tandoor-grilled and basted with an olive green paste of spinach, green peas, green chillies and coriander, the moist pieces are aromatic and zingy to the bite.

Red shouldn’t be the colour of choice for good Tandoori Chicken (RM15). Depending on the masala mix used, the resultant grilled chicken should flaunt a burnt sienna shade. Swaadh gets it right hence we have nothing but praises for the moist, tender meat which is well suffused with heady spice nuances.

Even the vegetable dishes are deftly prepared. My teen couldn’t get enough of the Palak Paneer (RM10.50) – a first for someone who is trying out for the first time. Who doesn’t love cubes of fresh housemade cottage cheese in devilishly unctuous spinach puree?

 

The Vegetable Khorma (RM9) isn’t too shabby either with its assortment of diced vegetables in yellow gravy. It just begs to be eaten with piping hot fresh Naan (available in four variants, RM3-RM5.20).

Alternatively, you can chase those tempting offerings with Cashew Pulao (RM6.60) – fluffy rice studded with cashew nuts and fried shallots. In addition, six varieties of Briyani (RM6.60-RM18) are available. We can vouch for the Prawn Briyani (RM18) – a big, bold and brightly flavoured dish that warms the tummy and heart with gusto minus the frills. 

From the God’s own country (as Kerala is famously known), the chef baits us with Fish Pollichathu (RM16.50) – fish coated in tongue-tingling chilli and spice marinade then grilled in banana leaf wrap.

There's also Kerala Fish Curry (RM14.50) which again upon your sampling it will tell you the spice concoction differs from that of regular Southern Indian curries.

Coconut and spices - two ingredients central to Kerala's cuisine come together harmoniously in the second Keralan favourite of Prawn Ularthiyathu (RM18.90). Sautéed with pieces of coconut flesh, onions and heady spices, it’s a stellar serving that sears itself into your memory.

Thali Set Meals are also available during lunch with vegetarian and non-vegetarian options served. For catering and special events, there’s a private dining hall onsite.

For reservations at Swaadh, call tel: 03-5166 2082/ 012-9197977 (Suresh). Address: 40A, Lorong Sanggul 1B, Bandar Puteri, Klang, Selangor. Resto is located on 1st floor above a car wash and behind Bandar Puteri 99 Speedmart.

TASTES OF GRAND SHANGHAI BANQUET

Imagine getting a set of piping hot Pork & Shrimp Dumpling (siew mai) and Pork Rib & Century Egg Porridge when you order any dishes price RM28 and above. Too good to be true? Such great deals are part and parcel of dining at Grand Shanghai Banquet in Seri Petaling.

 

According to owner Eujuan Teh, Grand Shanghai Banquet is just a few steps up from most neighbourhood Chinese restaurants. “We want to serve dim sum and typical ‘tai chow’ dishes in a comfy, air-cond environment for diners.”

He’s far too humble honestly. As befitting its name, the resto interior is more opulent than the average ‘tai chow’ eatery. With its gilded ceiling and modern Chinoiserie drum lantern lights, the interior looks as if King Midas has given it his golden touch.

Even though I rarely eat porridge, the resto’s smooth congee is palate-pleasing enough. Complementing it with delectable bites of siew mai makes it even better.

Naturally, you can order baskets of the steamed Pork and Shrimp Dumpling (RM7.50) separately.

 

The hefty serving of Fish Head Hot Pot with fresh Grouper fillet and Beancurd (RM48 – small & RM88 – large) is ample for groups of five or more. We love the soup’s tummy-warming goodness and clear sweetness; drawn from the milieu of assorted vegetable, sweetcorn, mushroom and yam added to it.

Thanks to a certain Hong Kong Michelin-starred dim sum resto, crusty char siew baos are now all the rage. Although the scrumptious Grand Shanghai Special Baked Bun with BBQ Pork (RM12.80) doesn’t have a queue up front for them, they are excellent. The buns’ sweet crumbly crust is not as greasy and the filling is truly satisfying.

Sliced chilli lends a zingy hot kick to the soft and gelatinous Steamed Chicken Feet (RM6.50). Steamed to falling off the bone, this delightful speciality is a ‘must try’ if you’re a fan of interesting texture and mouth feel.

More QQ bounciness to tickle the tastebuds is evident from the Steamed Fish Ball Dumpling with Seasonal Vegetable (RM6.50). Again its plain simplicity bears testament to the fish paste’s freshness. There’s no trace of any fishiness – a troubling sign of less than fresh fish paste.

Runny salty-sweet custard and salted egg yolk filling has us all a-wooing and ah-ing the minute we break the Steamed Custard Quicksand Bun ‘Hong Kong’ Style (RM7.50) into halves. The golden yellow liquidy centre makes it a little messy to devour but it is worth getting your hand dirty for this.

Xiao Long Bao or Steamed Pastries with Grand Shanghai Style in Superior Soup (RM9.00) is a mainstay here. Be careful when you pick up the hot soup-filled dumplings to avoid breaking the skin. 

Succulent scallops, springy prawns and robustly hot sambal ensure we make short work of the fab Fried Rice with Salted Egg and Assorted Seafood (RM19.80). Lightly flavoured with salted egg, the briny fluffy grains leave a favourable impression.

Memories of my Chengdu jaunt return when I sample the smooth poached Grand Shanghai Special Spicy Chicken (RM14.80). Topped with ginger and gritty robust Sichuanese chilli condiment, the tender meat is toothsome to the bite.

It is sublime when paired with the crunchy Stir Fried Kailan with Chinese Wine (RM15.80). The jade-green vege comes with wood ear fungus, soused in sweet rice wine and soy sauce for a heady accent.

Porky enthusiasts can go the whole hog with Braised Pork Belly with Brown Sauce & Chinese Wine served with Man Tou (RM28) or Grandma’s Traditional Stewed Pork (RM28). Set in a pool of unctuous brown sauce, the tung por yuk’s multiple layers of fat and meat look stunning. As expected, it’s sublimely rich.

The pork belly with salted fish in claypot begs to be eaten with plain rice. All the deep-seated, comforting meaty nuances should be doused over rice in order to derive greater enjoyment from it.

Acknowledging the Malaysian penchant for strong, piquant flavours, you’d find a dish or two laden with chilli and spice. The Claypot Assam Prawn (RM38) best exemplifies this approach.

For a refreshing finish to such a substantial meal, the dessert of choice has to be

Aloe Vera, Grass Jelly, Sea Coconut and Yogurt Pearls Jelly (RM30 - large, RM25 - medium and RM7 - single portion). We especially like the mildly tangy taste of the yogurt pearls which pop and burst on the tongue.

For reservations, call GRAND SHANGHAI BANQUET, tel: 03-8934 3852. Address:

No. 45, Jalan Radin Tengah, Sri Petaling, Kuala Lumpur. Business hours: 10am-10pm Monday-Friday, 9am-10pm Sat, Sun &PH