NOSTALGIC FLAVOURS FROM BABA NYONYA

It was love at first bite the minute we tasted the sizzling Salted Fish Chicken in Claypot (RM22.90). We discovered this hearty, downhome dish at Baba Nyonya by Sambal Chilli, a casual Peranakan restaurant at Avenue K recently. Glossy and dark, the caramelised chunks of chicken were superbly tasty and a fab take on the classic ham yue fah lam pou.

Good Peranakan food demands ample elbow grease but thankfully, there's a handful of Peranakan restaurants in the city to satisfy our cravings. We find Baba Nyonya by Sambal Chilli is one of the decent eateries worth trying.

You don't have to pay through your nose for decent Peranakan food here. The brightly lit, cheery outlet serves affordable packs of nasi lemak (a major crowd-pleaser), kuih-muih and delicious Assam Beehoon (RM2.50). The piquantly tangy fried rice vermicelli was so sedap we shamelessly ordered a second round to share!

Well-balanced sweet and spicy-hot accents from the resto's signature Sambal Petai Prawns (RM29) set our tastebuds alight. Both the prawns and stinkbeans were up to mark too, a combination of succulent and crunchy textures. Top notch!

For those who can't stand the heat from that robust dish, douse the fire with imaginative drinks such as Lemongrass Lychee (top pix left, RM10.90), Apple Assam Boi (top pix right, RM10.90), Cincau Bandung (bottom pix left, RM10.90) or Markisa (bottom pix right, RM10.90) - a refreshing blend of passionfruit, lemon, lime, calamansi and soda water.

The Fruit Rojak (RM9.90) also got two thumbs up. Tossed generously in dark, sticky caramelised prawn paste and crushed peanut dressing, the salad's fruity mixture and refreshing crunchiness proved so delectable, we devoured two portions in one sitting.

Bursting with such lush, deep-seated rempah flavours and lemak richness, the Curry Prawns in Claypot (RM36) left us struggling to relish it without rice. This surefire palate-pleasing offering stamped such an indelible impression on us, we agree it was worth returning for.

Amping up our quota of greens for the night was Steamed Ladies Fingers with Sambal (RM12.70). Personally, I found the sambal dip somewhat 'flat' and one dimensional but the tender ladies fingers was acceptable when partaken with the other specialities.

Two notable options which had us chomping with gusto were the wickedly addictive Tom Yam Popcorn Chicken (RM9.90) and Fried Belacan Chicken Wings (RM9.90). Again, their appeal can be attributed to the strong, distinct tastes imparted by two familiar and much loved flavours - that of tom yam and cincalok (fermented krill).

Our only grouse was the chicken wings were a tad dry from overfrying but the marinade managed to bestow the meat some tastiness.

The Crispy Fish with Sambal Sauce (RM56.90) was more slanted to Northern Malay or Southern Thai influences than Baba-Nyonya. Still, the fish was undoubtedly fresh and sweet; a nice canvas to capture the milieu of punchy spice nuances from the sambal.

Daily plates of noodles and rice are also available, to cater to the office lunch crowd looking for quick, reasonably priced lunches. The Green Curry Chicken Rice (RM14.90) was apparently a hit with the white collar clientele alongside popular choices of Nasi Lemak Chicken Kapitan (RM16.90) and Assam Pedas Fish Rice (RM19.90) among others.

After the earlier slew of potent servings, I daresay the Nyonya Chap Chye (RM16.90) seemed lacklustre by comparison. While the spongy beancurd puffs, black mushroom, glass noodles and mixture of veggies passed muster, the dish was too watery and flat on the palate.

The saving grace came from a defyingly simple but oh so fluffy portion of Cincalok Omelette (RM12.90). Sliced softened onion lent the savoury eggy serving subtle sweetness, leaving our dining party asking for repeat helpings.

Remember to leave tummy space for the house special of Banana Fritters (RM11.90). Raveworthy for its gossamer-light, crisp batter and sweet, soft bananas. A side dip of zingy black soya sauce (with ground chilli added) and a scoop of vanilla ice cream made for strange bedfellows for the fritters but somehow, these trad combo worked like a charm. You gotta try it to believe it.

Other dessert options such as Bo Bo Cha Cha (RM4.50), ABC (RM9.90) and Cendol (RM3.90) passed muster. I were underwhelmed by most of them but heck, I'm firmly of the "to each his own" school of thought so do try and decide for yourself.

Traditionalists may like sampling Sago Pandan Gula Melaka (RM4.90) and Bubur Pulut Hitam (RM4.20). Overall, I'd say Baba Nyonya is worth a visit for city folks who seek affordable meals with a homely Peranakan-Malay-Thai spin. The friendly and helpful service team earned extra brownie points from us too.

For reservations, please call BABA NYONYA by Sambal Chilli, tel: 03-21815544. Address: Lot UC-1, Upper Concourse, Avenue K, Jalan Ampang, Kuala Lumpur. Biz hours: 8am – 10pm daily

LOTS TO CROW ABOUT AT SHANGHAI

Steamboat or more accurately, a charcoal-fuelled hot pot is the festive favourite bill of fare for Chinese New Year for Executive Chinese Chef Wong Wing Yeuk of Shanghai Restaurant.

The affable chef revealed this interesting nugget during the Q&A session with media and bloggers after we had savoured a selection of his classic Shanghainese creations to welcome the Year of the Rooster.

Starting from RM238 nett per person, Shanghai will be offering both set and a la carte menus throughout the festive celebration until 11 February. Richly furnished in red and gold hues, Shanghai is an exquisite haven for Shanghainese cuisine by Chef Wong.

The chef explains the restaurant’s Yee Sang is specially created to cater to local custom as the dish is non-existent in China. For those who wish to lou hei, the festive salad can be accompanied by a choice of abalone, salmon, lobster, sea urchin, octopus or fresh fruit strips.

Although the various colours appeared muted in Shanghai’s version of Yee Sang those served at some Chinese restos, we spotted fresh grapes with strips of rose apple, musk melon and snow pear instead of pre-packed crisps in striking hues. It was the sauce that caught our imagination with zingy bursts of wasabi making its presence felt on our palate. Inspired by the Japanese sashimi-eating practice, Chef Wong had reinterpreted the shoyu and wasabi combo as the premise for his titillating Yee Sang sauce.

His inclusion of ‘fermented’ black garlic also brought surprisingly complex depth to the Double-boiled Superior Fish Maw Soup with Black Chicken and Cordycep Flowers. Interestingly, black garlic is produced by ‘fermenting’ whole bulbs of fresh garlic in a heated, humidity-controlled temperature environment for up 30 days. 

Then the bulbs are left to oxidize for 45 days, turning the garlic black and soft, tasting like balsamic vinegar or soy sauce with mild prune-like sweetness. A spot-on description for the soupy tonic we imbibed albeit much more salubrious from the pricey ingredients such as dried scallop, fish maw and bamboo pith in it.

An intoxicating whiff and accent of brandy was discernible the instant we bit into the chef’s signature Pan-fried Cod with a touch of Brandy. That flash of boozy warmth and subtle gingery hotness served to amplify the natural fish sweetness, transforming it into a gastronomic delight.

The enticing muskiness of black truffle stealthily reached our nostrils way before plates of Shanghainese Seafood Noodles with Black Truffle Paste hit our table. Despite the noodles plain Jane appearance, the eventual taste was anything but. Hand-made by Chef Wong, the silky strands was suffused with soul-satisfying nuances bestowed by a stock base of Chinese ham, old chicken and lean pork used to cook the noodles. 

Naturally, no visit to Shanghai would be complete without a sampling of its famed Steamed Shanghainese Meat Dumplings or xiao loong bao. We admired the dumpling’s translucent skin which was sturdy enough to hold its catchment of broth without bursting before we savoured it.

This dainty offering paved the way for Chilled Cream of Sago with Seasonal Mango & Pomelo accompanied by sticky-chewy slices of Pan-fried Glutinous Rice Cakes with Sesame Seeds to ensure our preview finished on a positive note.

For reservations and enquiries, please call Shanghai, tel: 03-2719 8288. Address: Level 1, JW Marriott Hotel KL, Jalan Bukit Bintang, KL.

A FABBRI-LOUS EXPERIENCE AT VILLA DANIELI

Chef Marcello Fabbri returns to Villa Danieli - pix courtesy of Sheraton Imperial KL

After a successful guest chef stint last year at Villa Danieli last year, the Michelin-starred chef Marcello Fabbri has returned for a whistle-stop sojourn starting today until 23 January at the Sheraton Imperial KL.

Discerning gourmands will find it easier to sample his inimitable culinaria here than back at the chef's own stomping ground so make haste and book a table asap. Us scribes were lucky enough to enjoy a Fabbri-lous dinner last night hosted by Sheraton Imperial KL as its annual media appreciation dinner and the chef was in top form.

A dainty amuse bouche of salmon with creamy rich cheese got the ball rolling, giving us a tantalising hint of what laid in store. 

The fresh, crisp nuances of Frescobaldi Pomino Bianco DOC heralded the debut of Marcello Fabbri Vitello Tonnato - the chef's newly interpretation of Tuna & Veal. Sprinkled with micro greens and sprigs of dill, it was an artistic palette of ethereally delicate textures and ever so subtle flavours with punctuations of aged balsamic and briny kalamata olives.

A floral-fruity white, Attems Pinot Grigio Venezia Giulia IGT lent vivacious sparkle to a superb Zuppa Di Zucca - velveteen Pumpkin Soup served with Roasted Pumpkin Seeds-crusted Scallops. My dining partner who eschewed anything pumpkin lapped up every drop; a firm testament of the heartwarming soup's soulful appeal which bore the barest whispers of spice. Sweet and moist, the plump scallops were to-die-for.

For me, the evening's show-stopping creation was Risotto Ai Porcini. Now, risotto is Chef Marcello Fabbri's signature speciality hence it was only natural his Risotto of Porcini Mushrooms blew us away. Like a clever magician, he ramped up the rich nutty creaminess of the Italian shortgrain rice with a quenelle of Parmesan Ice Cream. As the luxuriant cheesy topping melted down, every spoonful teased our tastebuds with riffs of hot and cold. Such deliciousness was aptly matched by a voluptuous red, Speri Valpolicella Ripasso Classico Superiore DOC.

The stakes rose higher with Manzo Australiano beefing up the Piatti Principale. Calling on Lamole Di Lamole Blue Label Chianti Classico DOCG - a ruby-red wine with dark cherry and berry notes, the medium rare Australian Black Angus striploin was a gastronomic masterpiece. Served with generous shavings of musky Black Truffle, Potato Confit and Asparagus, one could catch the dish's enticing aroma even before the steak arrived to our table.

Intense ripe red fruits and spice overtones from the Warre Warrior Finest Reserve Port Wine made a winsome pairing with Torta Di Mele Granny Smith - a rustic yet refreshingly light dessert of Granny Smith Apple Tart with Granny Smith Soup and Sorbet. I was partial to the pleasing sorbet with its clear apple accent while the minimalist apple tart of sorts ensured dinner concluded on a satisfactory high but not cloying note.

The Marcello Fabbri's Italian experience is priced at RM220 nett per head (food only) and RM380 (inclusive of matching wine) per head. Call Villa Danieli, tel: 03-2717 9922 for reservations.

 

FIRE ROOSTER REUNION FEASTS AT THE EMPEROR

Crunchy deep-fried soft shell crabs emerged as the distinct element which made the festive Yee Sang outstanding at The Emperor restaurant this year. This together with shredded young mango and Korean pear brought refreshing twists to the festive salad we sampled.

Diners can look forward to this delicious Soft Shell Crab Yee Sang alongside more ubiquitous Jelly Fish, Salmon or Baby Abalone variants for lou hei this Year of the Fire Rooster. Priced at RM68-RM138nett per half portion and RM98-RM258nett for a full portion, Yee Sang is served for lunch and dinner daily throughout the celebration.

A standing joke among those who know me is my lack of enthusiasm for most things soupy. Still, I make an exception for reviews especially when it's a nutritious broth like the Double-boiled Cordycep Flowers with Dried Scallop, Bamboo Pith, Black Chicken and Fish Maw Soup. Such premium ingredients are nourishing for the soul so even I won't pass up on such a gourmet treat. This wholesome broth is featured in the RM1,888nett set menu.

The sweet, sharp pungency of garlic was discernible when we bit into the tender, juicy meat of Golden Crispy Roasted Spring Chicken with Prawn Crackers. Frankly, the crisp skin and flavourful flesh barely needed the house-made chilli sauce served on the side, but an occasional dip into the tangy condiment managed to kick things up a notch.

A CNY feast without fish would be unthinkable since yue is synonymous with abundance to us Chinese. While Steamed Silver Cod with Taiwanese Beancurd and King Soya Sauce may sound tried-and-tested, the fish's delicate sweetness and smooth flesh complemented by silky slices of white beancurd had us hooked at first bite. I especially love the judicious balance of savoury-sweet accents from the use of premium soya sauce and deep-fried minced garlic.

 

A bed of smooth steamed egg white served as the base to showcase tender halves of Steamed Fresh Water Prawns with Golden Garlic and Egg White. We detected a faint whiff of Chinese wine as we savoured the fresh, springy crustacean whilst lapping up the creamy roe and sublime jus. Sedap giler!

Toothsomely QQ texture of the prawn paste made the palate-pleasing dish of Pan-fried Scallops utterly memorable. Guaranteed to put an extra spring in your step for the joyous festivities! The cluster of broccoli should ensure your green quota would be met too.

Instead of lap mei farn, a huge portion of Steamed Glutinous Rice with Diced Chicken, Yam & Duck  in Lotus Leaves wrapped up the substantial parade of mains. Carb die-hards would succumb to the hearty flavours reminiscent of hearth and home.

Sweet conclusion came in a platter of Deep-fried Chinese New Year Cake and Mochi Green Tea Paste. Mindful of today's health-conscious diners, both offerings were subtly sweet; teasing the tastebuds with different textures and adroitly combining the old (nin gou) and the new (mochi). 

Washing it all down with Chilled Mango Puree with Mixed Fruits & Sago, the whole plethora of festive specialities was indeed fit for an emperor. For the Fire Rooster Lunar New Year celebrations, The Emperor proffers four set menu options: Fortune of Gold (RM1,188 per table of 8-10 persons), Abundance & Wealth (RM1,388 per table), Luxurious Prosperity (RM1,688 per table) or Everlasting Prosperity (RM1,888 per table) for your picking.

For reservations, please call The Emperor restaurant, tel: 03-5031 6060. Address: Level 1, Dorsett Grand Subang, Jalan SS12/1, Subang Jaya, Selangor.