KAPPO'S THE WAY AT TAKEBAYASHI

In Malaysia, Takebayashi is the first of its kind — a Japanese restaurant specialising in Kappo-style cuisine. Opened in September 2018, this Zen-like culinary temple has Chef/Managing Director Tatsuo Takebayashi as the central commanding figure, impeccably suited in chef whites and colourful camouflage pants.

According to Takebayashi-san, Japanese Kappo can be defined as a multi-course meal prepared by the chef in front customers and served directly to them. The small and intimate ambience enables customers to see each dish being prepared using the freshest, seasonal ingredients in close proximity at the kitchen counter. Everything is above board with no holds barred on hygiene and chef-customer interaction.

Having garnered stellar culinary credentials including past stints at NOBU in the US of A, Malaysia and Montenegro, Japan Airlines’ in-flight catering company and Crystal Cruise, Takebayashi is now charting a new course as the captain of his own Kappo Restaurant at The Ritz-Carlton Residences.

Located in a discreet corner of the towering high-rise, the tactile wood and slate grey interior is dominated by a long countertop where the restaurant team holds court. An overhead display of house wines and Japanese spirits coupled with warm, ambient lighting gives the restaurant an austere yet cosy feel. A private room with six seats accord those seated within a stunning view of the iconic Twin Towers. 

Set meals (RM50 onwards) and sushi rolls (RM40 onwards) are mainstays during lunch hours. Dinner is the best way to experience Takebayashi Kappo as the culinary team will have ample freedom to impress through an Omakase menu (RM280 per person) comprising Zensai (appetiser), Sashimi, Agemono, Charcoal Grill, Sushi, Soup and Fruits.

The current menu is a work-in-progress, to enable Takebayashi ascertain the types of dishes that appeal to his clientele. Our dining experience got off to an orgasmic start with the chef’s simple but ingenious Cream Cheese with Miso (RM30) appetiser.

Marinated in miso for 3 days, the nondescript tiles of cream cheese came lightly grilled under a salamander prior to serving. The resultant sensuous creaminess coupled with the Japanese beanpaste’s seductive savouriness literally knocked our socks off.

Hot on the heels of that show-stopper was the second appetiser, Cold Tomato with Umami Jelly (RM45). Skinned and cut into quarters, the red Japanese tomato came surrounded by clumps of crystalline konbu-dashi flavoured jelly. We detected the barest tinge of honey sweetness as we nibbled on the fruity tomato before the umami taste resonated across our tastebuds when the soft jelly melted on the palate.

From the Cold Dish section, Chef Takebayashi tempted us with White Fish with XO Salsa (RM60). In this instance, the serving of Kinmedai (splendid alfonsino) was artfully sliced and dotted with tiny dollops of his XO salsa: a zippy mixture of dried scallop, garlic, spring onion and fried shallot amidst the mild tanginess of ponzu sauce. It was a joyful flavour party in our mouths; the fish's unadulterated sea-sweetness punctuated by faint bursts of punchy onion-sharpness.

We also fell hook, line and sinker for the house speciality of Salmon Tataki with Jalapeno Sauce (RM50). Such a mind-bogglingly simple creation but one that left an indelible impression, thanks to the unmatched pairing of lightly seared succulent Norwegian salmon slices with creamy, wickedly robust jalapeno sauce.

Crispier texture piqued our interest in the form of Popcorn Shrimps with Spicy Mayo Sauce (RM45). The airy-light batter coating the curls of springy shrimp were most addictive and when dunked into the mayo dip, truly hit the spot.

Executive Chef Jhon Chang also proved his sushi-making prowess when he conjured up two varieties of Sushi: Toro (5 pcs RM190) & Aji (5 pcs RM40) for our dining party. The raw fish slices were sizeable atop clumps of vinegared rice. Complemented by house-made pickled young ginger that suffused our tongues with warm sweetness and the bracing spiciness of freshly grated wasabi, every piece was an epicurean treat.

Sometimes a testament of a good Japanese restaurant lies in its most basic offerings. At Takebayashi, the slippery smooth and savoury rich Chawan Mushi with Dried Scallop Sauce (RM45) underscores this maxim.  Topped with shredded dried scallop, the silky egg custard had plenty of textural surprises: ginkgo, chicken, prawn and a square of yomogi (Japanese mugwort gluten) embedded within it to tantalise us. 

Playing his role as the perfect host to the hilt, Chef Takebayashi also plied us with his eponymous wine by Castello di Luzzano Lolli Piacentini Malvasia. The semi-dry Italian sparkling wine brimming with bright, effervescent fruity-herbal notes went like a dream with most of the dishes we had savoured including Grilled Spring Chicken with Wasabi Pepper Sauce.

The elegant wine did wonders in amplifying the enticing smokiness of the lean kampong chicken and the muted sweetness of the accompanying grilled white corn and cauliflower, touched with viscous barbecue sauce.

When it comes to dessert, the fresh, in-season Japanese Pear and Vanilla Ice Cream brought our hugely satisfying visit to Takebayashi to a rousing conclusion.

For reservations, please call Takebayashi Kappo, tel: 03-2181 3364. Address: Concourse Area, Level 1, The Ritz-Carlton Residences, Laman Sentral Berjaya, 105, Jalan Ampang, Kuala Lumpur. Business hours: Lunch Mon-Fri 12noon-2.30pm, Dinner Mon-Thurs 6.30pm-10.30pm, Fri & Sat 6.30pm-11.30pm.Closed for lunch on Saturday & whole day on Sunday.

SPECIAL FESTIVE MENUS FROM NOBU KL

Never mind if there’s no winter wonderland in Malaysia. Nobu Kuala Lumpur has rolled out the white carpet with Executive Chef Philip Leong and his talented team conjuring a selection of festive dishes including a whimsical Snowman dessert for this year’s celebratory Christmas & New Year menus.

Featured in the Christmas Omakase menu (RM590++ per person) from 22-25 December, the cute ‘snowball’ of Green Tea Panna Cotta with White Chocolate Mousse had us thoroughly charmed. Clumps of Green Tea Sponge complete the superbly delightful and subtly sweet creation.

Our festive spirits were suitably raised at the preview with November’s Cocktail of the Month, cheekily named Bloody Goose. A potent concoction of vodka, tequila, blood orange, lemon juice, egg white and vanilla syrup, its sweetish-tangy taste has enough punch to leave us gaily lightheaded.

The sneak preview comprised several key dishes curated from both the Christmas and New Year’s festive menus. After devouring delicious deep-fried lotus root and raw salmon/tuna canapés, our palate was feted to Sushi Bar Moriawase — an enticing triumvirate of Toro Tartar, Seafood Harumaki and Junsai Ponzu with Mango Miso.

A thoughtful composition of various textures, mouthfeel and flavour profiles, it was the rare Japanese delicacy known as water shield or junsai that caught our imagination. Those tiny leaves and buds’ natural gelatinous mucilage heightened the ethereal creaminess of the attendant sea urchin and mango miso.

Caviar added a touch of luxe to the tuna tartar whilst the seafood harumaki (Japanese spring roll) proved utterly scrumptious thanks to its exquisite scallop and crab meat filling. Sweet onion salsa lent a fabulous finish to the speciality.

The quartet of Nobu Style Sushi Cup is conceived to make festive feasting fun. You can simply relish the contents of the four little sushi cups — each topped raw yellowtail, tuna, anago (sea eel) and salmon smeared with housemade sauces —using a teaspoon.

Available from 29 December to 1 January 2019, the New Year’s Eve Omakase (RM645++ per person) will include tantalising delights such as Botan Ebi & Kanpachi Endive Salad. This speciality underscores Nobu’s trademark Japanese-Peruvian approach; an artful textural and flavour melding forged from the original taste of the ingredients used and bright, exuberant flavours like those of lime, onion and tomatoes.

Passionfruit and yuzu sorbet will be served as palate cleanser. The cool treat is most welcomed to refresh our appetite, priming it for the succession of mains to come.

According to Chef Philip Leong, one of the most challenging dishes his team has to contend with is the Butter Poached Lobster with Watercress Broth and Glazed Figs. Austere yet vibrantly coloured, the sweet tender lobster chunks were to-die-for. Caramelised figs added a sensuous dimension and I was most tempted to pick up my plate to slurp up every drop of the delicious, jade-green broth.

Rich decadence aptly described the Christmas menu main dish of Wagyu with Wasabi Black Bean Glaze and Tempura Zucchini Flower. The voluptuous black bean glaze was redolent with umami overtone; a befitting complement to the luxuriant fatty beef cooked to medium rare doneness.

Personally, I was more partial to the Cold Inaniwa with Braised Duck & Bamboo Shoot from the New Year’s Eve menu. Served in a light savoury sauce, the silky smooth Japanese noodles formed a dream dalliance with the duck and bamboo shoot.

Lots more culinary surprised await at Nobu Kuala Lumpur this festive season. Be sure to make your reservations ahead of time for your share of the gastronomic treats. A 5-course Christmas Omakase Lunch (RM250++ per person) will also be available on 24 & 25 December 2018.

For reservations, please call NOBU KL, tel: 03-2164 5084 or Whatsapp: 019-389 5085. Address: Level 56, Petronas Tower 3, KLCC.