Strawberries in yee sang. Seafood soup redolent with oceanic
flavours. Fish swimming with nostalgic inspired accents. Brace yourselves for a Year of
Blooming Abundance at Hilton Kuala Lumpur's Chynna Restaurant this Chinese New Year.
From the precision of the resident tea-pouring expert to the last morsel of sticky nian goa, our dinner preview was anything but ho-hum. A harbinger of the auspicious celebration ahead, the preview session started with the curtain-raising Yu Sheng Selection (RM128 for half portion, RM280
for whole portion).
A pile of huge American strawberries, bursting with bracing
tanginess mingled well with the colourful platter of julienne radish, carrot,
pickles, crushed macadamia, fresh coriander and dried kumquat. We were relieved to find the house
dressing was light, fruity and didn’t turn the salad
into a soggy mess after our vigorous bout of tossing.
In conjunction with the Chinese New Year celebration, Chef
Lam Hock Hin has conjured up a repertoire of special dishes for the occasion. While
the Grand Fortune Set would require a minimum of 5 persons per table at RM688
per head, other festive sets: Abundance (RM288 per person), Prosperity (RM398)
and Wealth (RM438) are good for two or more. All the festive menus will be
available from 7 January to 24 February.
The night’s show-stopper was the Braised Assorted Dried Seafood with
Vegetarian Fins, Crabmeat & Fish Maw; its complex layers of savoury, deep-sea flavours in my experience was the only soup to have come closest to mimicking the real deal. I daresay I lapped up every last drop of that subtly
fishy, unctuously thick milieu of crabmeat, seamoss, slivers of fish maw, translucent noodles...it was par excellence.
Pumpkin sauce was Chef Lam’s way of bestowing a
healthy slant to his creation of Braised Abalone Cubes with Sea Cucumber, Pumpkin
Sauce & Crispy Smoked Meat. “I got the brainwave after eating a pumpkin
dish prepared by my girlfriend” said the chef in jest when he was asked on the
inspiration behind the dish.
“The pumpkin sauce’s golden colour also bodes well for
Chinese New Year. Finely diced, crispy smoked duck was added to give the dish
more flavour. It makes a nice change from the usual braised abalone and
sea cucumber dish.”
Lots of painstaking work has gone into the chef’s
speciality of Steamed Wild Caught Giant Grouper Slices with Congee, Fried
Ginger & Touchu Chilli Sauce. According to Lam, the rice has to be soaked
overnight and underwent several water changes before it was boiled down into
that milky white, smooth congee base.
The final dish was a gastronomic treat for fish lovers
who are partial to supple, smooth and delicate texture. Again drawing
inspiration from traditional comfort food, Lam amped up the fish slices and
congee pairing with fried ginger strips for some warm,
spicy kick, and briny taucheo (preserved soya beans) with chilli to
jolt the tastebuds awake.
Mindful of our multi-racial society, Lam decided a
dish with Indian and Malay influences has a place on the Chinese New Year table
too. It was on-point too as the spice quotient of the Batter Fried Crispy
Chicken with Yellow Curry Sauce proved a hit especially
among the young ones.
We enjoyed the curry leaf-scented okra pieces atop the
fried chicken. Marinated with dried shrimp paste, the crispy and moist chicken
pieces were delectable to boot.
Another wave of nostalgia hit us when we sampled the Stewed
Cabbage with Yam and Shrimps in Claypot. It wasn’t anything to look at but the
taste was homey and delicious; good comfort food that you’d want to keep
eating.
One dish to ensure you leave Chynna replete is the Ten
Grain Rice Stuffed with Chicken Floss. My only pet peeve with this offering is the
clumps of rice was a tad sweet for my liking. IMHO, the rice should not have been
steamed with sugar since each clump of the multi-grained rice already came with
chicken floss on top — in this case, less is more!
Dessert featured a duet Combination of Snow White
Coconut Jelly and Nian Gao Roll with Cheddar Cheese, Macadamia Nut and Musang
King Durian. The former passed muster but paled into the shadows next to the
festive new year cake.
With a powerful King of Fruit filling, we couldn’t
detect any trace of the cheese nuance in the Nian Gao roll. Overall, the sweet
treat was acceptable but the cheese simply failed to make its presence felt.
Otherwise it was a lovely and sweet way to conclude a celebratory CNY dinner.
For reservations, call Hilton Kuala Lumpur's Chynna, tel: 03-2264 2264 or
visit life.hiltonkl.com