SPICE, RICE AND EVERYTHING JAFFNA'S NICE AT YARL

Yellow as the sun and fluffy soft, the signature Yarl Dosai (plain RM3, Yarl Egg Dosai RM4) is an inviting option for afternoon tea (4pm onwards) or dinner at Yarl Restaurant in Brickfields.

The dosai gets its vivid hue from turmeric powder; its compelling taste enlivened by aromatic fried onion and curry leaves. Accompanied by dhal and onion curry, the delicious and comforting dish is one of Yarl’s many crowd-pulling Sri Lankan specialities.

Ten years ago, Yarl — derived from Yalpanam, Jaffna’s old name in Tamil — was merely a sidewalk stall in the middle of Brickfields. Today, it’s a full-fledged restaurant which had  undergone a fresh facelift about two months ago. Although the premise isn’t air-conditioned, whirring ceiling fans keep the no-frills interior cool and comfy for a cuppa and quick meals from 7am to 10pm daily.

Two home-trained chefs are tasked with rustling up a wide array of distinct Jaffna specialities at Yarl; based on their arsenal of ancestral recipes and ingredients imported from Jaffna and the Northern province of Sri Lanka. Spices are blended and ground in-house for maximum flavour and freshness.

 

The daily selection of dishes focuses on the 6 Tastes of Food in Tamil known as “Arusuvai” i.e. Sweet, Sour, Salty, Bitter, Spicy and Astringent (Dry). Every meal should include an equal balance of all those flavours, to properly satisfy each major taste bud on the palate. Hence, the lunch buffet at Yarl consists of 15 different types of vegetarian dishes as well as 8 non-vegetarian dishes.

Prices are reasonable too. Take your pick of 3 veggies with rice (RM7) or rice with 2 veggies & chicken (RM9) or mutton (RM12). Rasam and sambal are complimentary with the meal. On Friday, we are told red rice is served.

Notable vegetable dishes we’d recommend include Beetroot Varai, Pumpkin Varai, Pavakkai (deep-fried bittergourd chips), Brinjal-Tomato-Garlic Curry, Lentil Sothi and Vegetable Cutlet (RM1.50). Fragrant spices are used judiciously, more to imbue aroma and flavour in the different dishes than for heat. Only the brinjal-tomato-garlic curry will set the tastebuds tingling with zingy heat.

The non-vegetarian plethora is equally compelling especially Sura Varai — flaky shark meat floss cooked with turmeric, onion, chilli and grated coconut being the most outstanding pick of the crop.

My dining companions rave about the Mutton Bone Curry since they enjoy digging in to relish the marrow. Piquant and bursting with zingy heat makes the Prawn Sambal a standout but I daresay the Mutton Peratal, Chicken Curry and Fish Curry prove on-point too. Chicken Pirattal (RM8), Fish Cutlet, Chicken Varuval, and Fried Tenggiri (RM12) are also available.

For a taste of authentic Jaffna street food, try the house speciality of Chicken Kothu (RM10) — chopped fried roti with spices, onion, leek, scallion and egg. In Sri Lanka, street vendors hawking this popular steet food are a common sight.

Its enticing, smoky taste is similar to local char kway teow. At Yarl, you can order Vegetarian Kottu (RM7) as well as Egg (RM8), Prawn (RM15) or Mutton Kottu (RM12) prepared with a choice of Roti, Puttu or Idiyappam.

Since Yarl opens early for breakfast, it won’t be remiss to start the day with Puttu (RM2.50) or Red Puttu (RM4), freshly steamed cylinders of white or red rice flour and grated coconut. The typical Jaffna way to savour puttu is complement it with side dishes of Dhal and Vendhaya Kulambu (fenugreek curry).

Special mention must be made of the Appam here. Light and crisp at the edges with a soft, pillowy centre, the Sweet Appam (RM2.50) sprinkled with brown sugar and coconut cream is sublime as an afternoon tea treat or dessert. The richer-tasting Egg Appam (RM3) is no less delectable although Sri Lankans tend to eat it with curry or sambal.

For more information, please call YARL RESTAURANT, tel: 010-360 6624. Address: 50 Jalan Pedang Belia, Brickfields, Kuala Lumpur.

GIN’S THE TONIC AT MARIGIN

The cosmopolitan spirit of gin with a local touch and some creative twists levels up MariGin beyond its stature as a traditional gin parlour in Kuala Lumpur. MariGin Gin Bar is the latest feather in The Marini’s Group hat — a leading F&B player known for Marini’s on 57, Marble 8 and M Marini Grand Caffè & Terrazza establishments in the city.

According to Cavaliere Modesto Marini, owner and founder of The Marini’s Group, “Gin is usually a staple in any bar but at MariGin, it is the star. It’s a versatile and refreshing spirit that can be drunk straight up, in a simple mix, or added to other flavours in a cocktail. Gin’s diversity and variety ensure it appeals to different palates and provides new experiences. At MariGin, we aim to create a gin drink for every occasion.” 

MariGin is located just a stone's throw away from the iconic Twin Towers. Patrons can sit back and wet their whistle within MariGin’s relaxed atmosphere; a cushy haven of dark marble flooring, low sofa lounges and coffee tables and a rustic bar counter that’s central to the overall hubbub. 

 

The shaded terrace boasts pool and gin pong tables in addition to timber topped tables paired with high bar stools to seat 35 persons. Indoors, MariGin can comfortably accommodate 56 persons but greater privacy can be sought inside two private rooms, which seat 6-8 persons.

 

The dedicated gin menu features 57 varieties of gin: from gin infusions, gin and tonic mixes to bespoke cocktails for every occasion. MariGin’s drinks are priced from RM27++ onwards.

 

We sampled Ginius (RM40++), a Gin concoction of infused kaffir lime leaves, lemongrass, lime and galangal with Fever Tree Aromatic Tonic. Subtle floral notes were discernible in Ginny In The Bottle (RM40++), a Gin cocktail infused with chrysanthemum, wolfberries, lemon, chrysanthemum flower and Fever Tree Elderflower Tonic.

 

 

 

More in-gin-ius tipples to pique your interest include Anti Agin (RM45++), a mythical fountain of youth rustled up with The Botanist, basil, chamomile, ginger cordial, lime juice, soda and an edible flower; Ginasium comprising Citadelle Original, Malibu, grapefruit juice, coconut water, spiced syrup and lime juice; and Chi Si Gin (RM45++) — Tanqueray NO.10 with lychee liquor, lychee, lemongrass, lime juice and kaffir lime leaves.

 

Among the array of gin & tonic mixers to uplift Happy Hours are Concubine Gin (RM56++), a captivating concoction of Martin Miller’s, grapefruit, basil and East Imperial Tonic; The Duke of Gin (RM52++) rustled up with Monkey 47, blueberries, grapefruit and Fever Mediterranean Tonic and Padrino (RM56++) — Nikka Coffey Gin with coffee beans and East Imperial Tonic.

For more information and enquiries, call MariGin Gin Bar, tel: 03-2386 6030 or email reservations@marinisgroup.com. Address: One KL, Jalan Pinang, Kuala Lumpur. Business hours: 5pm to 1am Monday to Saturday, Happy Hours 5pm to 9pm.