LET’S GO MEDITERRANEAN AT MARINERO

It was a Mediterranean-style Mother’s Day celebration with Mom. The venue of choice was Marinero, a newly opened restaurant specialising in Mediterranean fare at LaLaport Bukit Bintang City Centre (BBCC).

The food got Mom’s stamp of approval – a good sign as she can be rather picky when it comes to non-Chinese fare. She loves the spacious dining area which is dominated by a circular bar.

 

Eye-catching wall murals depicting scenes of Mediterranean life are Insta-worthy. One corner is dedicated to a modern wine cellar with its cachet of fine wines.

To whet our appetite, we sampled crisp, battered Calamari Fritters (RM30). Served with lemon mayonnaise, the tender squid rings went down a treat. Even better was the heap of zucchini strips - that airy light batter would make any tempura master proud.

 

Mom gamely tried the Trio Dips Platter with Pita Bread (RM49) and gave it the thumbs up. Her favourite was melitzanosalata (Greek eggplant dip) but found both the hummus (chickpea purée), and tzatziki (shredded cucumber with yoghurt) agreeable when spread onto the soft triangles of lightly toasted pita bread.

 

Moroccan Lamb Kofta (RM35) made from ground lamb mixed with spices then grilled on skewers – proved to be another winsome appetiser. The house peri peri sauce bestowed a touch of fiery heat when we dabbed the kofta with it.

The only minor hiccup was the underwhelming Watermelon Salad (RM28): the crumbly bits of feta barely left an impression whilst the chunks of watermelon, too big and the sumac vinaigrette and balsamic reduction, too little. We shared the feedback with the Marinero team who promised to improve on this.

For mains, we highly recommend Moroccan Lamb Shank (RM95) with Apricot Cous Cous (the other option is Biryani Rice). The fall-off-the-bone tender lamb shank was scrumptious; its rich meaty flavours nicely soaked up by the fine cous cous studded with dried apricots. Smooth, thick Greek yoghurt sprinkled with pomegranate seeds enhanced the dish further.

 

Infused with saffron, the Seafood Paella (RM99) came laden with mussels, squid, fish and tiger prawns in addition to red capsicum and peas. What we missed from this deliciously comforting speciality is socarrat, that layer of slightly scorched, crusty rice at the bottom of the pan.

Our meal wrapped up on a high note thanks to the excellent Chocolate Fondant (RM28). Served with a scoop of chocolate gelato, chocolate crumbs and some fresh berries, we were stoked when molten chocolate actually flowed out once we cut into the cake. Few places do this dessert well so kudos to the resto team for pulling this off.

 

A round of buttery phyllo pastry, chopped pistachios and juicy berries crowned with luscious Vanilla Gelato (RM25) proved a tad indulgent but this sublime treat is shareable when you embark on a Mediterranean culinary “cruise” at Marinero.

For reservations at Marinero Mediterranean Dining & Bar, call 012 673 0046 or visit: https://marinerokl.my/

Address: Gourmet Street of BBCC, Lot G-49,50,77, Ground Floor, Mitsui Shopping Park LaLaport, Jalan Hang Tuah, Kuala Lumpur. Business hours: 1130 am to 11pm; weekends until 12midnight

 

IN A GLASS OF ITS OWN

Tartines stole the spotlight at Glass Tartines & Tipples on our maiden visit. The French open-faced sandwiches rustled up by owner Sharon Lam and her team left such indelible impressions, we were left wondering how this outpost remained below our radar for so long.

Although we made great work out of the sharing platter of Glass’ Friday BBQ – a stellar cast of six freshly grilled items (more on that later) – we were smitten by the signature Fresh Pear with Gorgonzola Tartine (RM25). Dribbles of truffle honey emulsion along with fresh watercress and crushed walnuts amped up the deliciousness pairing of melted cheese and slightly scorched pear. Be forewarned the cheesy accent may be a tad strong if you're aversed to dairy.

Homies may find greater affinity with the Char Siew Chicken Tartine (RM28) – an ambrosial boneless chicken thigh fillet marinated in Chinese char siew (sweet barbecue) sauce then grilled to tender perfection. Served with a punchy house-made chilli sauce and decked with long ribbons of fresh cucumber, pickled daikon and carrot, the scrumptious serving left no cause for complaints.

Having cut her teeth as a professional fine art photographer at the Victorian College of the Arts in Melbourne, Australia, Sharon enjoys putting her own creative spin on food and drinks at Glass. She runs a tight ship too; spurring her team to make whatever possible e.g. stock, sauces and dips from scratch while keeping everything on an even keel at the frontline.

The casual, convivial vibes are accentuated by Glass' minimalist, spartan decor with gradient shades of gray. Our poison of choice for that evening comprised Red Sangria and Lemongrass Cooler but Glass is known for its eclectic range of craft beers and true to its name, tipples.

 

 

Our appetite was suitably whetted by the opener of crusty Turkish Bread with Trio of Dips: Babaganoush, Hummus and Olive Tapenade. They hit the spot in sync with the live music and BBQ Friday promotion from 6pm onwards.

On the grill, the choices include Orange & Basil Glazed Chicken Wings (RM15+), Beef Rendang Skewers (RM18+), Chicken Satay with House Made Peanut Sauce (RM15+), Sliced Beef with Chimichurri Sauce, Grilled Prawn Skewers with Lime Cilantro Glaze & Salsa (RM15+) and Grilled Squid stuffed with Cous Cous. For groups of four and more, the Glass team will be happy to rustle up sharing platters.

 

On-point faves: the smoky medium rare beef slices, the beef rendang skewers and the tender stuffed squid. Everything came up to mark – a commendable feat. The only thing more distracting than the food is the talented musical duo’s performance on Friday evenings. Their soothing repertoire is a fab precursor to welcome the weekend along with Sunset Sips and BBQ Nights.

A refreshing counterpoint to the protein quotient is the summery Fresh Watermelon Salad with Feta Cubes & Aged Balsamic Vinegar. Its vibrant sweet juiciness melding cohesively with the subtle green bite of raw watercress and the clean astringency of sliced baby radish, bound by the natural oil in the almond flakes.

 

Luscious and silky smooth Panna Cotta with Mango Puree & Pomegranate Jewels was the befitting icing on the proverbial cake, marking our maiden visit to Glass on a sweet finish.

For reservations, call GLASS TARTINES & TIPPLES, tel: 03-2302 1118. Address: A-0-6 Ground Floor, St Mary’s Place, No 1 Jalan Tengah, Off Jalan Sultan Ismail, Kuala Lumpur. Business hours: Mon-Fri 7.30am-11pm; Sat 3pm-11pm; Sun 8.30am-5pm.  
FB: https://www.facebook.com/GlassKualaLumpur/
Instagram @glasskl

RESOUNDING APPLAUSE FOR TWO HANDS

Crisp. Golden brown. Gluten-free. Inspired by the Indian pakora (vegetable fritter), the Crispy Parmesan Cauliflower (RM22) by Chef Vicneswara Thenamirtham (better known as Chef Vic) is a showstopper at Two Hands, a 7 month-old cosy restaurant tucked away inside Qliq Hotel at Empire Damansara. 

Coddled within pouffy-light, crisp gluten-free batter (made from a mixture of chickpea, tapioca and rice flour), the cauliflower florets makes eating vegetable pleasantly addictive. Dusted with parmesan and heaped atop Greek yoghurt flecked with chopped dill, onion, coriander and Spanish smoked paprika, the delectable morsels will have you asking for more after one bite.

We like the pared-down, utilitarian look and homey feel of Two Hands. Its white, deep blue and gray colour scheme accentuated with naked Edison bulbs and futuristic etched shade brass pendant lights conjure up a fuss-free yet welcoming setting for Chef Vic's food to take centrestage.

According to Chef Vic, he strives to source and use as much local produce where possible. Due to rising demand, many of the dishes served at Two Hands are also vegan-friendly and gluten-free. "There has to be synchronicity between food producers and consumers as both are stakeholders in this aspect; both parties have to be responsible for the food we cook and eat. As a chef, I care deeply and devote a lot of efforts into transforming local, organic and fresh produce into healthy dishes for diners."

His creation of Hummus 3 Ways (RM28) exemplifies the aforementioned philosophy. The bright and flavourful trio of tahini chickpeas, beetroot and roasted pumpkin hummus is a surefire winner. Served with house-made bread, the appetiser is good for sharing. Each type of hummus is conferred with marinated chickpeas, diced beetroot and roasted pumpkin on top for textural interest. Touched with balsamic glaze and globs of feta cheese, this is an offering to write home about.

Salad days have never looked cheerier than the Apple & Walnut Salad (RM21) from Two Hands. Even my jaded palate perks up once the refreshing melange of mixed lettuce leaves (the menu stated local spinach but the greens may change depending on supply) tossed with unwaxed apple dices, roughly chopped heirloom cherry tomatoes, streaked with creamy, tangy Greek yoghurt and organic acacia honey.

Housemade, crisp Cinnamon Rolls paired with Smoky Albondigas (RM31) sounds odd off the bat but the unlikely pairing proves to be a revelation. Chef Vic's tireless experiment paid off in his search for the perfect bread to complement his albondigas (Spanish for meatballs) -- hand-rolled chilled mince lamb meatballs imbued with smoked dry rub. Chunky, blistered tomato sauce anointed with freshly chopped coriander tie up the artful melding of savoury-sweet nicely. (Note: add RM6 for 3 pcs cinnamon rolls)

Flaky, housemade Croissants (RM6 for 3 pcs) are the ideal companion for the Salted Egg Custard Prawns (RM28) offering. While it's tasty, the lush braising gravy of garlic, onion, chilli flakes and crumbled salted egg yolks strewn with curry leaves seems to overwhelm the delicate sweetness of the sustainably caught sea-white prawns. IMHO it's a decent but unexceptional dish.

Besides the cauliflower speciality, I'd urge you to plump for the scrumptious 4-hour Beef Short Ribs (RM112 for 2 persons to share). Baked with rock salt for 4 hours, the short ribs are toothsomely tender. Topped with Chinese chicken floss, spring onion and sesame seeds, the beef is heavenly sublime; the slices slicked with moreish beef jus and barbecue sauce. Catching all that saucy goodness is a generous spread of garlic and coriander mash. 

Inspired by the aromatic Cajun rice dish cooked with onion, pepper and celery 'mucked up' with chicken liver and ground beef, Chef Vic tweaks his version with smoked paprika, braised tomato and coconut cream to create Grilled Portuguese Chicken with Dirty Rice (RM58, ample for 2) in a skillet. The crusty, burnt bits scraped from the pan base are especially delish. We also like the juicy chicken which tastes reminiscent of ayam percik.

After that slew of stellar offerings, it's hard to appreciate the simpler Pulled Beef Pasta (RM57 for 2). Intermingled with pulled chunks of stewed beef, brined carrots and asparagus, the hearty pasta dish appears underwhelming on the tastebuds but we daresay it should hit the spot with ardent pasta fans.

If you are in the vicinity during lunch, pop in for Two Hands' good value lunch deals. Top of the list is Thai Green Curry (RM18 – Slashed for Lunch, RM26 - a la carte), a tiffin carrier containing rice topped with a fried egg complemented by mild green curry. Portion-wise, it's big enough to ensure a hearty eater leave replete.

Health-conscious and fitness buffs will be pleased to know Two Hands serves vegan-friendly and gluten-free dessert treats. Try the fudgy, biscuit-based Strawberry Jelly Cheesecake (RM14) with toasted coconut and chocolate chips or Vegan Chocolate Fudge Cake & Coconut Latte Ice Cream (RM18).

The assorted ice cream featuring Salted Caramel with Walnuts and classic flavours are lusciously good. Remarkably on-point as a wholesome treat to wrap up the meal.

Post-work succour in the form of spirited cocktails abound here too. Notable concoctions we can vouch for include Jack Jean Paul (RM44) -- London dry gin with jackfruit puree, Russian vodka, fresh mint and hazelnut liqueur; Coffee Chanel (RM31) -- an energising drink of Kahlua, vodka, frangelico, caramel and espresso; Coconut Coach (RM32) -- Malibu coconut rum, vodka, freshly pressed pineapple juice and organic coconut oil, and Cucumber Chloe (RM37) -- elderflower liqueur, dry gin, Russian vodka, cucumber juice, cured cucumber and thyme.

For reservations at Two Hands Restaurant & Bar, please call tel: 012-424 1194. Address: A-LG-05, Qliq Damansara, Jalan PJU 8/8A, Petaling Jaya, Selangor. Open daily, 7am-12 midnight.