Preserved chicken lap cheong (waxed sausages) and
edible peach gum (pix above) emerged as the intriguing specialities that snagged our
attention during this year’s Chinese New Year dinner preview at Zuan Yuan.
For rice-loving friends who eschew pork, it is the
perfect chance to sample lap mei farn. Wrapped and cooked in lotus leaves, the
Steamed Rice with Yam, Preserved Meat and Chicken Sausages tasted similar to
the real deal but I dare say it was less greasy. Studded with
powdery, mushy yam dices, the soya sauce imbued grains were so sedap, most of
us had second helpings.
Chef Michael Chew and Chef Lee Siew Hap also
conjured up fresh ideas for the customary lou sang ritual by marrying the
classic Caesar salad with yee sang, to create the winsome Caesar Salad with
Salmon and Grated Parmesan Yee Sang (RM85 for half portion, RM170 for full
portion).
Happily, it was a dream fusion which had balsamic vinegar
drizzled on cos lettuce and a dusting of grated parmesan parked alongside more
familiar yee sang ingredients (pickles, crisps and other condiments). After a
thorough tossing, the distinctive salad drew nothing but praises from our
dining party. Three other varieties of yee sang are served: sea bird’s nest
with shredded sweet turnip, salmon and shredded sweet turnip or sliced abalone with
snow pear.
More traditional Chinese folks still demand old
school specialities like Braised Shark’s Fin Soup with Sea Treasures so this
dish remains on the festive menu for now. Admittedly, times are a-changing with
more and more of the younger ones giving the soup a wide berth and opting for
alternative broths.
Like any notable Chinese restaurants worth its
salt, roasts can make or break their reputation. Zuan Yuan is one resto that
passes with flying colours as we swooped in and quickly made short work of the
Roast Chicken and Duck platter with Marinated Jellyfish. Juicy and tender to
the bite, it was a substantial, scrumptious platter to satisfy us fussy eaters. The crunchy jellyfish had a zingy bite thanks to some chilli oil infused in it.
Warm, spice nuances from Vietnamese five
spice powder bestowed the Wok Fried Tiger Prawns with appetising flavour and
finger-licking deliciousness. Slit in the back, the crustaceans’ clear
sweetness stood out amidst the light coating of marinade.
Humble choi poh (preserved
radish) together with garlic and chilli formed a simple but comfortingly homey
topping to grace the Steamed Star Garoupa. If the fish wasn’t a tad overcooked,
it would have tasted out of this world. Still, we picked everything clean so
obviously that was a minor bone of contention.
The chefs are wise enough to leave the time-honoured Braised Sliced Abalone,
Mushroom, Sea Moss and Beancurd with Garden Greens well alone. We had no
complaints as the traditional dish came up to scratch, brimming with hearty woody-earthy-deepsea
accents.
Clumps of reconstituted peach gum lent extra
textural interest to the Chilled Sea Coconut with Lotus Seeds, Snow Lotus Seeds
and Red Dates. The clumps of peach gum have to be soaked in water for 12 hours
before use. In China, it’s used for cooking and baking. We found the mouthfeel
similar to hasma; slightly gelatinous like watery agar-agar.
The monkey must have inspired the inclusion of
banana cream into Zuan Yuan’s final dessert of Deep-fried Nian Gao with Banana
Cream. Sheathed in a crispy yet light batter, I love the sticky glutinous rice
melding with the sweet creamy banana mash.
Three Blossom of Happiness CNY set menus are
available throughout the CNY period priced at RM1,738, RM1,980 and RM2,210 nett
per table of 10 inclusive of two bottles of wine.
For reservations, call Zuan Yuan, tel: 03-7681
1159. One World Hotel, First Avenue, Bandar Utama City Centre, Petaling Jaya,
Selangor.
