FLAVOURFUL "DESTINASI RASA" AT LE MERIDIEN PUTRAJAYA

Grandmother's beloved Daging Dendeng recipe paves the way in inspiring Chef Khairulnizam bin Mohd Rostam when he planned the five rotational buka puasa menus for Latest Recipe's first ever fasting month promotion.

The hotel's Banquet Chef whose experience spans two decades said he gleaned the precious recipe by observing and helping his granny in the kitchen. "The Daging Dendeng reflects her Javanese background and it is her signature dish. When I got married, she made loads of it and presented the speciality in place of bunga telur to friends and relatives. Everyone was so touched by such a personal and priceless gift."

As with all traditional food, the preparation is painstaking but Chef Khairulnizam says he has modified the recipe, making it possible to produce big batches of Daging Dendeng in his modern kitchen. You have to try the tender slices of beef, richly suffused with myriad spices, caramelised onions and subtle chilli hotness. Unlike the Padang or Minang version which tends to be dry with jerky-like  texture, the chef's version is moist and redolent with complex layers of sweet, warm and zingy nuances.

I also sampled Ayam Ungkep, another Javanese dish from nenek's familial repertoire. Again the robust flavours of the rempah are vividly bright and tantalising; similar to the richness of rendang but without kerisik in it.

Finding Satar makes the long drive to Putrajaya worthwhile for this East Coast delicacy can rarely be found in the city. Wrapped in banana leaf cones and grilled, the clumps of lightly spiced minced fish meat and grated coconut instantly brought back fond memories of my trips to the East Coast years ago.

While everyone makes a beeline for the seafood on ice selection, I prefer the ulam and kerabu section. The Kerabu Kacang Botol or winged bean salad is notable as is the variety of sambal.

I daresay it's impossible to eat everything served from such an expansive buffet; the array includes Malay, Indian, Italian, Japanese and Chinese fare. The trick is be selective and focus on offerings you usually won't cook at home, labour-intensive dishes or pricey treats like roast lamb, oysters and prawns.

From the Indian kitchen, decent options range from Garlic and Cheese Naan, and Mutton Vindaloo. Spice fans will enjoy the piquant specialities available. 

Gulai kawah - curries cooked in giant woks come in four variants: duck, chicken, beef and goat meat. Each is distinctly different as the spice blends vary according to the meats but Gulai Itik wins out as the dish is more uncommon for buka puasa.

Japanese food enthusiasts will have a field day savouring perennial faves such as Teppanyaki, Tempura and Assorted Sushi Rolls. Mindful of retaining the taste quality, two chefs constantly whip up the airy light tempura prawns and veggies on the spot as fast as the crowd snaps them up.

On-point meaty choices include Braised Lamb Shank, Fried Belacan Chicken and Roast Chicken Rice. Over at the Chinese section, take your pick of Dim Sum, Yong Tau Foo and Fried Radish Cake.

Sweet temptations should leave you spoiled for choice too. The Turkish Ice Cream is a definite crowd-puller as is inventive Cheese Banana Fritters. Classic reliables like Ais Kacang, Pulut Serawa Durian and Tapai will ensure you and your dining companions roll out of Latest Recipe with big, satisfied smiles.

Priced at RM158nett (adult) and RM79nett (children aged 5-12), Destinasi Rasa Buka Puasa is open daily from 6.30pm to 10.30pm until 24^th June 2017. For more information or to make a reservation, please call 03-8689 6888 or email dining.lmputrajaya@lemeridien.com.

BEST OF BEIJING'S CANTONESE FARE AT TOH YUEN

 

Meet guest chef Vincent Zhang from Hilton Beijing whose mettle in whipping up Beijing's finest Cantonese cuisine takes centrestage at Toh Yuen, Hilton Petaling Jaya from now until 30 April 2017. 

Chef Zhang artfully fuses the traditional and contemporary, resulting in Beijing fare with distinct Cantonese influences. According to the youthful Zhang, Beijing folks enjoy whetting their appetite with a wide assortment of cold appetisers and this is evident from the starters he has selected for us, to appeal to the Malaysian palate.

We were greatly tickled by the show-stealing khou sui ji (口水鸡); its tongue-in-cheek tag means drool-worthy chicken. Indeed, the succulent pieces of Poached Chicken with Spicy Sauce certainly ruled the roost once we had a sampling. 

Smothered in fiery-red chilli oil, the chook's deliciousness was discernible. Also the gritty chilli on top wasn't tongue-searing hot as we had anticipated but faintly smoky-sweet. 

Served on crushed ice, the paper-thin strips of Fruit Juice Infused Bitter Melon Salad proved on-point too. If you balk at eating this bitter vegetable, I urge you to try it. Instead of the usual astringent bitterness, each crunchy strip tasted mildly fruity as the chef has infused the bitter melon strips with guava juice (sometimes apple juice is used).

Taking a leaf from a classic 300 year-old Chinese appetiser recipe, Zhang reinterpreted Marinated Chinese Cabbage with Mustard his way. The 1.5" Chinese cabbage rolls which resembled siew mai dumplings were pliantly soft, zapping the tastebuds with bright mustardy zinginess once we bit into them.

The Jellyfish Flower in Aged Vinegar with Leek and Ginger Dressing served up a flourish of toothsome crunchiness and piquant flavours. We relished every mouthful of this simple, no-frills offering.

Both the Double Boiled Black Chicken Soup with American Ginseng, Goji Berries & Red Dates and 'Surfing' Fine Slices of Whole Live Abalone with Kombu Seaweed in Superior Broth stayed true to the Cantonese ching theem (clear and sweet) approach. Suffice to say, the delicate, unadulterated accents of the two soups warmed our hearts at first sip.

A hodge-podge of aromatics had gone into marinating the cod overnight before it was deftly transformed by Zhang into Beijing Famous Pan Fried Cod with Mustard Mayo. Paired with plump asparagus spears and a smear of palate-prickling wasabi mayo, this fish exuded such winsome panache we swiftly wiped everything clean.

Zhang then raised the bar with Beef Fillet with Golden Garlic Crisps, a signature dish at Hilton Beijing. Laden with enticing aroma and nuance from golden brown confetti of garlic crisps, the meat's scrumptious mouthfeel invariably scored top marks.

Sha jiang or sand ginger (Kaempferia galanga) was integral to the chef's marinade for the delectable Crispy Roast Chicken with Salt & Pepper, lending muted camphorous peppery hints to the perennial crowd-pleaser. In fact, the crisp skin and juicy, moist flesh made the side dip of chilli sauce almost redundant.

Equal parts of egg and bean milk went into the making of the yellowish Beancurd with Seared Foie Gras, Scallops & Mushroom Sauce. Never mind its amusing Scotch Brite appearance, the eggy beancurd topped with chopped spinach worked like a charm. The beancurd's light sponginess was a match made in culinary heaven with the attendant ingredients.

Ethereally soft and bouncy textures converged with delicately sweet and clear seafood accents in the dish of Prawn Fritters with Asparagus, Pumpkin & Lily Bulbs; an admirable testament of the chef's flair for his craft.

He even presented a Chinese fusion of Taiwan's famed 'three cup' chicken speciality, resulting in Cantonese Stir-fried Chicken with Trio of Sauces. Whilst basil plays an assertive role in the Taiwanese version, the convergence of savoury-sweet-herbaceous nuances was no less voluptuous on the palate. Garlic, ginger and shallot also added a tinge of warm spiciness.

Mindful of our hot, tropical weather, Zhang proffers Hot Green Bean & Mandarin Peel Broth as one of the dessert options. Known for its cooling property, the green bean purée was pleasantly smooth and slightly unctuous.

Another cooling dessert broth which should prove popular is Snow Pear with Red Dates & Sweet White Fungus, served hot or cold. A timeless not too sweet treat that's both nutritious and wholesome after a hearty meal.

Dishes for the Beijing's Finest Cantonese Cuisine by Chef Vincent Zhang are priced from RM35 onwards. 

For reservations, call Toh Yuen, tel: 03-7955 9122 extn. 4073/74 or check www.zestpj.com for more details.