EAT LIKE AN EGYPTIAN...AND MIDDLE-EASTERNERS AT CHATZ

Egyptian guest chef Ayman Ibrahim pulled out the stops for the Middle Eastern Food promotion at Chatz Brasserie, rustling up a repertoire of 37 Egyptian, Middle Eastern and Mediterranean dishes throughout the period between now and 31 October 2016.

Coriander seeds combined with sesame seeds lent subtle crunch to the Falafel (RM20) - a popular snack and appetiser of chickpea croquettes with tahinah (sesame paste). I like these patties as the chef has ensured they weren't overcooked and dry.

Middle Eastern, Mediterranean and Egyptian cuisines share some similarities and one of the most obvious we sampled at the preview was Warq Einab (RM22), brined grape leaves stuffed with rice. These dainty rolled parcels were surprisingly palatable - the grape leaves weren't as tart and salty as I had expected and the rice filling was agreeably tasty. The pleasant taste left a good impression as past encounters with this speciality hasn't been up to scratch.

Another common appetiser across the region is Hommous (RM16), the evergreen chickpea spread. Of course, recipes vary from chef to chef and restaurant to restaurant but I had yet to savour a dud so this delightfully smooth and dense spread was a joy to eat with warm, pouffy Arabic bread.

Bulgur wheat and tiny wedges of cherry tomatoes lent subtle 'bite' to the guest chef's Taboulah (parsley & mint salad, RM20). The tangy lemon juice and olive oil dressing was tantalising enough minus any sharp tartness so we rated this as a definite 'must have'.

Even the rustically creamy lentil soup or Shorbah Adas (RM26) won us over with its back to basics approach. Every spoonful was a testament to the chef's TLC, warming our hearts and tummies with its soulfulness.

Pasta, chickpeas, beans and lamb cubes bestowed heartier substance to the same lentil soup, transforming it into Shorbah Harirah (RM30). The resultant broth had greater complexity and depth but personally, I preferred the pared down, lighter version. 

 

We took an instant liking to carb and protein laden speciality like Lamb Kabsah (RM48)

with Roz Boukhary (long grain rice cooked with lamb marinated with assorted spices, RM25). The meat was subtly suffused with aromatic spices; its delectable accent amplified by the flavourful rice. We also tried Roz Saiadiah (RM18), irresistible fried onion rice which served as a foil for several other mains.

Chef Ayman proved to be a dab hand at grilled spring chicken or Dajaj Ala Elfaham (RM36). The juicy chook bore hints of warm, smoky spices which should leave you asking for more.

Another combination of spices was discernible in Kofta, barbecued lamb meatballs. These gamey spheres appeared a tad dry for my liking but we took so long photographing them, there could have been some moisture loss.

Vege such as okra stewed with tomato and beef formed the premise for Bamiah bil Lahm Ejal (RM50). At first glance, the dish could be mistaken for curry but the red hue stemmed from the tomato sauce base. A perennial Middle Eastern comfort food that should please homesick foreign visitors from the very same shores.

If you prefer not to deal with bone-in pieces of chicken then Shish Tawook (barbecued skewered chicken cubes, RM30) would suit you down to the ground. Marinated in yoghurt, lemon juice and spices (possibly cayenne, paprika and sumac), the lean cubes of grilled chicken were slightly dry to the bite.

Similarly, seafood and fish are often thrown cooked on the grill. The mixture of spices may differ but the key ingredients' inherent taste is maintained. Proof of the pudding was the sublime accents discernible in Jambary Mashwi (grilled prawns with saffron sauce, RM55) and Samak Mashwi (fried fish glazed with tahinah, RM46).

Broad beans with rice and herbs or better known as Fooll Akhdar (RM28) underscored the simple homespun fare enjoyed by the people residing in the Mediterranean and Middle East for centuries. A tried and tested offering that most of them would identify with.

Sweet toothed diners shouldn't miss the trio of dessert available. My fave has to be
Kashul (almond pudding, RM25). Perfumed with rosewater, the pudding looked stodgy but once I sampled it, the luscious treat reminded me a little of creme brulee although it was less dense.

Other options guaranteed to please Middle Eastern cuisine fans included Baklava (RM25) and Basbosah (RM18).

Four types of nuts were coarsely crushed and filled into petite florets of fillo pastry; a sticky mass of syrupy sweetness encased in buttery, flaky fillo layers. They could be terribly addictive unless you are allergic to nuts.

Semolina together with grated coconut and ground almonds formed the foundation for Basbosah, the classic Egyptian cake (similar versions found in most Middle Eastern countries). Drenched with rosewater syrup (again this differs from recipe to recipe), the crumbly cake was meant to be savoured with a strong cup of coffee.

For dining convenience, Chatz Brasserie is offering a Middle East Specialities Set Menu comprising an appetiser, a soup and a choice of Mandy (RM88 nett), Dajaj Kabsah (RM85 nett) or Samak Saiadiah (deep-fried fish in pungent sauce, RM85 nett) for the main followed by a dessert. The dishes reviewed here are also available a la carte from 12noon to 12midnight daily until end October 2016.

For reservations, please call CHATZ BRASSERIE, tel: 03-27828301. Address: Lower Lobby Level, PARKROYAL KUALA LUMPUR, Jalan Sultan Ismail, Kuala Lumpur.

TALK OF THE TOWN

How does your garden grow compared to Table Talk's?

Much as I like and am crazy about food, I don't have that much passion to devote my life to slave over a hot stove day in day out; churning dish after dish out consistently and unfailingly to please paying customers. Uh, I guess that's why I prefer writing about food than making an actual living out of it as a cafe owner or restaurateur.

I take my hat off to chefs and restaurateurs...they're such a special breed of people who not only can stand the heat but also take an unbelievable amount of crap from customers, staff, suppliers and the powers-that-be who need to be dealt with in the running of the F&B business.

I guess hope springs eternal in the hearts and minds of aspiring chefs and wannabe restaurateurs as they bravely go where eagles fear to tread...like Raymond Tan, the enthusiastic owner behind Table Talk, a cosy bistro-style outlet in Taman Tun Dr Ismail who has determinedly set out to put his money where his mouth is.

Natural freshness tops Table Talk's culinary philosophy

"Our aim is to serve real food made from fresh, quality ingredients," said Tan, MD and owner of Table Talk. "I insist on our dishes being free from artificial flavouring, colouring, preservatives and chemicals. If possible, we'd eliminate processed food entirely from our menu but as it is, we are still working towards that."

We are what we eat...

The health-conscious entrepreneur turned restaurateur shared how personal dining out frequency and his own yearnings for simple MSG-free fare have spurred him to venture into the opening of Table Talk. Despite encountering numerous obstacles that sometimes threaten to derail his lofty plans, he insisted on the chef making sauces and necessary dishes from scratch; going to the extent of banning canned food in the kitchen and air-frying chips instead of deep-frying them.

Look ma, no oil! Air-fried fries to lessen the guilt

Opened in November last year, Table Talk has gradually drew young families from around the neighbourhood for its weekend breakfast and a white collar working folks during lunch. The owner is also thinking of enticing couples and families to procure and pick up a picnic basket from the outlet and troop off to the lush Kiara Park nearby for an outdoorsy meal.

Cheesy, eggy goodness...dig in and discover sliced sausages, onion and rustic tomato sauce in the heart of it all

According to Tan, the breakfast crowd has been encouraging since it started. Word has started to spread among their regulars and he is confident that the numbers will increase steadily with time. He enthused on how the house Baked Egg with Cheese (RM13) is fast becoming a popular choice for youngsters who can't get enough of the baked speciality. The rich, cheesy egg mixture with sauteed sausages, onion and homemade tomato sauce is best enjoyed with slices of crisp toast, it's a substantial dish that should leave you replete.

Potato perfection married with peppery sausages and saucy sweet onion

If you're a potato head, then the Rosti Potato with Sausages (RM15) comes highly recommended. Crisp at the edges yet softly textured towards the centre, the delicious pan-fried grated potato patty comes served with sauteed peppery sausages in brown gravy.

The ultimate breakfast platter with eggs, toast, sausages, ham, beans & sauteed greens 

Heartier appetites may prefer the Ultimate Brekkie (RM18) - a platter consisting of two fried or scrambled eggs, turkey ham and sausages, homemade baked beans, rosti potato and lightly sauteed greens with wholemeal toast. Special mention must be made of the baked beans which definitely didn't come out of a can but painstakingly prepared on premise. They're less sweet and not as mushy. The greens sauteed with earthy sliced mushroom should go down well, giving you your first serving of veg for the day.

Fresh & fruity pancakes drenched in syrup and enriched with butter

The saucer-sized Fluffy Pancakes (RM12) are made-to-order and appeared in a petite stack. Personally I would have preferred the syrup served on the side but others may beg to differ. Other accompaniments for this airy light treat include butter and fresh fruits.

Boost your morning with a healthy Fibre Juice smoothie made with real juices and fruits

We also sampled two blends of Fibre Juice (RM9.50) to prep our tummies prior to breakfast. Don't moan or groan over Granny's Favourite - it's actually a healthy concoction of green apple, celery, pineapple and lemon to kick start the day.

Smoother but no less nutritious is Anana-cado which has banana and avocado whizzed with milk and mint for a richer, indulgent drink. You probably can survive half the day on this alone if you're not incline to eat anything upon waking.

Flicking through the a la carte menu, I notice a decent selection of Appetisers (RM12 to RM35), pasta (RM20 onwards) and mains (about RM42 onwards) that should keep non-fussy diners amply filled and satisfied.

Someone told me the steaks at Table Talk are worth savouring too but for me the proof of the pudding is always in the eating. For now I'm sure Table Talk is as keen as any newbie eatery out there to get a taste of sweet success. All it needs is a chance to prove itself. Not such a tall order is it?

TABLE TALK, 4, Jalan Datuk Sulaiman, Taman Tun Dr Ismail. Tel: 03-7733-7718