YES TO YEMENI FOOD AT AL NAFOURA

Meet the pièce de résistance of Al Nafoura restaurant in Wangsa Maju. A hearty Yemeni rice dish that takes about 20-30 minutes to prepare, Maghdout is well worth the wait. You can choose either Lamb Maghdout (1/2kg RM39, RM75 1kg) or Chicken (RM35 half, RM65 whole) which has long grain basmati rice pressure-cooked to perfection in tomato-based sauce with lamb or chicken and aromatic spices. 

Prepared only upon order, the resultant speciality had us hooked on its deep-seated flavours; the fluffy rice a nice foil for the chunks of meltingly tender meat. Served with a side dish of Al Nafoura Salad (RM10) - diced Japanese cucumber, tomatoes, olives and feta cheese, this signature dish is ideal for sharing and worth repeat visits.

Opened in February 2016, Al Nafoura - the word means water fountain in Arabic - has garnered a steady following despite its low-key existence. The chefs working at Al Nafoura are Yemeni as are the ingredients. The resto owners, Rahim and Izana ensure dishes served remain as original as possible to those found in Yemen, especially Rahim who had studied in Saudi Arabia and spent years relishing Yemeni food in the Middle East.

According to them, Yemeni food is heavily influenced by Africa, India and Turkey after the country's fisherfolks, merchants and traders brought exotic spices and recipes back from their forays. Also Yemenis thrive on rice as a staple unlike the rest of the Middle Easterners who prefer bread. Having sampled the assorted Yemeni and Middle-Eastern specialities, we realised they outshone those proffered in the city centre.

The opening salvo of freshly made and baked Mullawah Bread (RM5 small, RM8 large) was ample proof. Layered and folded with butter or ghee, this deliciously rustic Yemeni bread is only available on weekdays (after 6 pm for dinner only) and weekends.

Tear up the fluffy bread and savour it with Hummus (RM12), house blended chickpeas with olive oil and Prawn Salona (RM22). Both these tapas-style offerings hit the spot as we were ravenous after the long drive to the resto.

Tomato, onion and cumin formed the alluring base for the Prawn Salona, a robustly flavoured house speciality with shelled prawns. You can also enjoy the bread with Chicken Oqda (RM17), a well-spiced albeit slightly drier chicken stew with potatoes, tomatoes and carrots. In Arabic, oqda means knot - referring to how nicely 'tied up' the ingredients are. Think of it as a scrumptious Middle Eastern rendang.

Al Nafoura also served its own distinctive Garlic Sauce (RM4) - a creamy blend of garlic, egg white and sunflower oil to complement the array of lamb and chicken dishes. Of course, you can expect Shaweq - an irresistible relish of tomato, garlic, coriander and bird's eye chilli to accompany most of the food too.

The menu also includes ubiquitous Middle-Eastern dishes such as Mandi Chicken (RM16 quarter, RM26 half) - delectable spice marinated chicken grilled and served with basmati rice. I had my fair share of this and more commonly found fare on a recent assignment but I daresay Al Nafoura's is one of the more notable ones worth savouring and suitable for both adults and kids.

You'd find it hard to eat another lousy mamak mee goreng once you try the resto's hybrid Maggi Goreng Kabsa (RM18). Boldly flavoured with sedap giler tomato-spice nuances similar to the house speciality of Maghdout, we polished off this crowd-pleaser within minutes.

Partial to lamb? Then Kabsa Lamb Rice (RM23 small, RM37 large) should convert you into part of the flock once you have a taste of the hearty lamb stew laden with aromatic Yemeni spices served with fragrant basmati rice.

Dessert can be rather hefty to deal with single-handedly after all that carbs and protein. We suggest a serving to share especially if you wish to dig into Areeka (RM18). It's a sweet-savoury bread pudding of sorts, rustled up with housemade Yemeni wheat flatbread with minced dates and nuts. Crowned with cream and grated cheese, the decadent treat was rich and filling.

Cheese lovers may prefer Kunafe (RM15), an Arabic cheesecake of sorts which is made from shredded phyllo dough and white soft cheese baked and topped off with a dollop of cream. Simple yet extremely lush and not to be trifled with lightly. Good with a warm cup of Adani Tea (milky red tea enhanced with spices) to finish.

For reservations call Al Nafoura, tel: 03-4131 4886. Address: 9-G, Plaza Wangsa Maju (Hedgeford Galleria), Jalan Maju Ria 2, Wangsa Maju, Section 10, Kuala Lumpur.

VIET'S GOOD TO EAT AT AN VIET

I have yet to visit Vietnam but it hasn't stopped me from liking or enjoying wonderful Vietnamese food through the years, either at Vietnamese restaurants in the Klang Valley or on my travels abroad where large population of Vietnamese folks live and work. After a  recent visit to my friend Caren Poon's restaurant - An Viet at The Gardens mall, the good Vietnamese specialities worth trying include:

XOI CHIEN PHONG (RM13.90) - the fried crispy glutinous rice puff ensures a ball of a time once you cut into it. Accompanied by lemongrass chicken salad on the side, the golden brown orb is hollow inside which left us awed by the cook's skill in making it.

Just cut the puff into nacho-size pieces to scoop some of the salad up. The spongier base tasted like appam; the remainder, a toastier version of its crisp edges. Tangy-briny with hints of herbal freshness, we relished how the salad added to the textural mêlée.

BANH TRANG NUONG (RM8.90) - crisp and fragrant grilled rice paper stuffed with minced pork, quail's egg and dried shrimp. A delicate envelope of multiple textures and irresistibly hearty flavours that left us wishing for repeat helpings.

CANH CHUA NUOC DUA (RM13.90) - a soulful rendition of fresh clams and coconut water broth. We marvelled at the varying sweet nuances of the key ingredients; a soupy symphony tinged with the punchy sourish notes of cherry tomatoes and mild accents of lemongrass, dill and chilli.

NOM HOA CHUOI (RM13.90) - a raveworthy medley of banana blossom, cucumber and carrots. Tossed in a house dressing which uses pure fish sauce and supporting cohorts of blanched tiger prawns and chopped roasted peanuts, the simple, crunchy salad made loading up on greens fun and flighty.

GOI CUON (RM8.90) - fresh Vietnamese spring rolls of gossamer thin rice paper stuffed with fresh tiger prawns, Vietnamese vermicelli, shredded carrot and cucumber, coral lettuce and herbs. We were too busy dipping the yummy rolls into the pure fish sauce and chilli concoction which left no room for complaints.

BUN CHA (RM17.90) - delectable grilled sliced pork belly and minced pork patties doused in a tantalising sauce of pure fish sauce with pickled green papaya and carrot, and chopped chilli. Fresh lettuce leaves became edible parcels lined with basil and filled with Vietnamese rice vermicelli then meat. Dunked into the tantalising sauce, our mouths were suffused with a riot of palate-pleasing flavours and textures.

PHO BO (RM18.90) - this perennial noodle dish hailed from North Vietnam, featuring a clear 12-hour simmered beef marrow broth as the base. Served with tender slices of Australian tenderloin and brisket, the slippery smooth flat rice noodles were a comforting delight to savour. Fresh basil, beansprouts, fresh lime wedges and housemade Sriracha chilli sauce came on the side for us to customise according to preference. We polished everything off, down to the last drop of soup.

Special mention must be made of An Viet's social consciousness of preventing food wastage. Diners are encouraged to choose their serving portions, between 80g to 200g, for noodles and rice so that no noodle or rice grain is left uneaten. An Viet also donates 10 sen for every meal finished on its premises to a social enterprise in Vietnam to train disadvantaged youths with vocational skill development.

GRILLED LEMONGRASS CHICKEN (RM15.90) - a notable signature which has boneless chicken thigh marinated in lemongrass and chilli then grilled to golden brown perfection. The chicken's fragrantly smoky aroma coupled with juicy, mouth-watering tenderness almost had us crowing with pleasure. Aptly supported by a trio of rice, pickles and a sunny side-up egg, the dish left us sighing with contentment.

BANH MI - a popular bready delight of crusty baguette sandiwch. The delicious filling consists of grilled boneless chicken fillet layered with fresh lettuce as well as cucumber and papaya pickles. Ideal for those who want a quick bite without feeling too stuffed.

VIET-FFOGATO (RM9.90) - a twist to the usual Vietnamese drip coffee thanks to the presence of condensed milk ice cream and coconut milk. A delightful amusement to perk up the tastebuds with the rich creaminess of milk and coconut milk amplifying the robust coffee profile.

BANH BIA (RM8.90) WITH/WITHOUT CONDENSED MILK ICE CREAM (RM12.90) - for a sampling of Vietnamese traditional pastry, try the durian flavoured 'mooncake'. The lotus pasta is fine and smooth with the durian nuance pleasantly discernible, tempered by the salted egg yolk at the pastry core. We suggest savouring it with a scoop of condensed milk ice cream for that indulgence finish.

The range of Vietnamese beverages available are also worth checking out. For our humid weather, quench your thirst with XA GUNG (RM7.90 hot, RM8.90 cold) - house-brewed lemongrass and ginger drink. This folk tea remedy offers much touted benefits: helping with weight loss, boosting the immune system, balancing blood acidity and detoxing impurities from our body.

 

Fresh coconut water and flesh are put to imaginative use to create SINH TO DUA (RM10.90), a cool mocktail blended with milk and ice. Superbly refreshing, it's a drink to go nuts over.

For reservations at An Viet, call tel: 03-2201 1181. Address: Lot LG 203B, The Gardens, Mid Valley City, Lingkaran Syed Putra, Kuala Lumpur

FULL STEAM AHEAD AT XIN CUISINE

Steamboat is Malaysia's equivalent to hot pot and shabu shabu. My first encounter with this heartwarming speciality was outside Stadium Negara where diners sat under the stars on a grassy verge, tending patiently to their charcoal-fuelled steamboat pots. Today, the experience can be as basic or as classy as you desire. If you prefer to enjoy this perennial offering in air-conditioned comfort with top quality ingredients, Xin Cuisine is just the place to go.

A choice of chicken or herbal soup or interestingly, curry gravy is available as the base stock upon which your steamboat affair can be built on. Priced at RM50 nett per person (minimum two persons per table) and served on Mon-Fri, the variety and quality standards of choice ingredients used are uncompromisingly high.

 

Now, this is no empty boast as I can assure you each and every time has came under the strict purview of the hotel General Manager, Gary Lee whose discerning, finicky tastebud is the final determining yardstick.

Hence the extensive selection veers from choice cuts of chicken and fish, paper-thin slices of pork streaked with some fat, crunchy jellyfish, spongy fish maw, sliced top shell and cuttlefish, and decent sized tiger prawns.

Instead of commercial, mass produced fish balls, the Xin culinary team proffers bouncy fish balls flecked with seamoss and plump sui kow dumplings stuffed with minced pork and prawns.

Lending balance to the meaty fare are smooth soft beancurd along with deep-fried beancurd skin (foochuk), button mushroom and greens: young cabbage, spinach, Chinese cabbage, lettuce in addition to some egg noodles and eggs.

 

Plain chicken stock is best should you wish to appreciate the natural sweetness and taste of the various ingredients. For additional 'oompph', try ramping up the flavour quotient with the house Chinese herbal broth. Xin also offers three sauce concoctions to enliven the cooked morsels. It was fun to experiment and dip different ingredients into them, to decide which had more appeal. 

 

Special mention must be made of the curry gravy. Granted, it is a somewhat unusual choice since curry has such a rich and robustly strong profile but in this case, Xin managed to strike a delicious balance. We found the curry gravy so irresistible that our dining party had no qualms tossing most of the ingredients into it. The resultant taste was raveworthy enough to entice us into slurping up bowls of that broth.

For reservations, please call Xin Cuisine, tel: 03-2144 8750 or 2144 2200 x 2338. Address: Lobby Level, Concorde Hotel KL, 2 Jalan Sultan Ismail, 50250 Kuala Lumpur