KOPITIAM EXPERIENCE AT DORSETT GRAND SUBANG

Hankering for some good old kopitiam fare such as Nasi Lemak, Roti Bakar with Butter & Kaya or Soft-boiled Kampung Eggs with your fave cuppa? Foreign and local guests of Dorsett Grand Subang can now enjoy a first-hand experience of eating in a local kopitiam Mon-Fri, 10.30 am to 5 pm without stepping out of the hotel.

Priced at RM12.80 nett per order inclusive of a cup of Milo, Teh Tarik, Kopi Lokal or Nescafe Tarik, you can select Roti Bakar (toast) with Butter & Kaya (local egg jam), Soft-boiled Kampung Eggs, Nasi Lemak Bungkus, Cucur Udang (2 pcs), Giant Chicken Curry Puffs, Popiah Goreng (2 pcs) or Portuguese Egg Tart.

We gave thumbs up to the delicious Nasi Lemak. Wrapped in banana leaf lined paper, the coconut cream-enriched rice was fragrant and went like a dream with the sambal which had a hint of sweetness to it. Ubiquitous accompaniments: a slice of omelette, sliced cucumber, and fried peanuts with ikan bilis (anchovies) lent textural interest.

Unlike Cucur Udang (prawn fritters) sold elsewhere where the prawns are non-existent, we are pleased to find several small prawns atop the crispy pieces. Served with a chilli dip, the fritters were so delectable we couldn’t resist a second helping.

Another on-point offering was Popiah Goreng. The generous filling of shredded jicama, carrot and mushroom inside the fried spring rolls was reminiscent of Penang Nyonya-style chun piah.

As a fan of local curry puff, I was delighted to find the Giant Chicken Curry Puff came up to scratch. Besides diced potato and chicken, it included a wedge of hardboiled egg.

 

If you’re slanted towards Continental fare, individual portions of Big Breakfast (RM48 nett) are served from 11am to 3pm daily. A hearty plate big enough to two light eaters to share, it consisted of fluffy scrambled egg, chicken sausages, crisp beef bacon strips, baked beans, sautéed mushrooms, hash browns, cherry tomatoes, salad, and slices of buttered toast.

MOONLIT SERENITIY

Celebrate the upcoming Mid-Autumn Festival with Halal mooncakes from Dorsett Grand Subang, available now until 29 September.

Perennial best sellers: Premium Musang King Durian Snowskin Mooncake (top right, RM63) and Dorsett Signature Blue Mooncake (bottom right, RM43) comprising white lotus paste single yolk encased in organic blue pea flower snowskin continue to be the top draw among Dorsett guests.

The sweetness of the Signature Blue mooncake is just nice, with the salted egg yolk giving the lotus paste filling balance. We also like the inclusion of kuaci (melon seeds) in it.

A standout in our book this year is the Honey Purple Potato Paste with Single Yolk in Lemongrass Snowskin (RM43). The delicious sweet potato paste melds harmoniously with the fresh herbaceous-lemony imbued snowskin.

A touch of bright sweetness from yuzu honey citron lends distinct edge to the baked variant of Pandan Lotus Paste Single Yolk in Yuzu Honey Citron (RM43). Although it's an unlikely combo, the flavours work like a charm.

Made from pure Musang King pulp, you'd realise why it remains such a hit with mooncake fans of the Premium Musang King Durian Snowskin. The luscious taste is incomparable and as good as eating the actual fruit.

Dorsett Mooncake Gift Set (RM128 nett) makes gifting easier for the Mid-Autumn Festival celebration. It comprises a set of 4 baked mooncakes and a box of 10 sachets Rhymba Hills sampler. 

For more information, call Dorsett Grand Subang, tel: 03 5031 6060.

PALATE-PLEASERS APLENTY AT WARUNG PADANG

Possibly West Sumatra’s most popular export, Nasi Padang (rice from the town called Padang) is a specialty of the Minangkabau community. The cuisine encompasses assorted dishes: ranging from hot, spicy curries and milder, flavourful stews to deep-fried delicacies and vegetables cooked in sambal, to complement white rice.

With three decades of experience in Padang food, Chef Pak Isan Santibi now rules the roost at the newly opened Warung Padang by The Majapahit group.

The eatery is pragmatically designed, with a prominent display counter and a glass showcase laden with a mind-boggling array of Padang specialities to leave diners spoiled for choice. Everything looks so tempting, it’s easy to go overboard when you start picking various dishes for your Nasi Padang meal.

Aside from white rice, Warung Padang offers Nasi Padang Plate (RM6.80) – a dish of white rice with blanched cassava leaves, gulai vegetable (veges in spiced gravy), various types of sambal and half a hardboiled egg.

If you are partial to ‘spare parts’, the Gulai Tendon (beef tendon in spiced gravy, RM17.50) and Paru Goreng Balado (fried cow’s lungs with chilli, RM10.10) proffer delightfully toothsome textures amidst varying levels of robust spiciness.

Show-stoppers we’d gladly vouch for include Rendang Daging (RM13.30), sumptuously rich and aromatic Minang-style beef rendang and distinctive Dendeng Daging Balado (RM14.30), Padang-style beef jerky in piquant fried sambal.

Creamy and spicy nuances make the Ayam Goreng Balado (RM13.30) tantalising choices to sample. For extra ‘fire power’ to set your tastebuds alight, the Ayam Goreng Lado Hijau (chicken with fiery hot green chilli, RM13.30) will accomplish that admirably well.

The Ikan Tilapia Goreng (RM15.40) is great for sharing; the fish’s inherent sweetness shining through the sprinkling of crispy fried garlic bits on top of it. Try amping up the taste quotient with dollops of Sambal Hijau Padang (RM3.70) or Sambal Balado Padang (RM3.70).

Balancing the protein selection are the green chilli sambal-laden Terung Sambal Hijau (RM5.90) and Sayur Daun Singkong (a mildly creamy turmeric-flavoured curry with cassava leaves, RM5.90).

 

Jering (Archidendron pauciflorum), otherwise known as blackbead or dog fruit, consists of edible seeds from the woody, globous and deep purple pods. This local herb is sometimes eaten raw as ulam whilst Padang folks adeptly cook the seeds to make Jering Sambal Hijau (RM3.70). The resultant dish tastes rather nice with the seeds’ sulphuric smell undetectable.

For some crunch, Sambal Kering Teri Kacang (RM5.90) –crumbled tempeh (fermented and compressed soy bean cakes) fried with peanuts and pounded chilli make an appetising addition.

Notable options of Perkedel Kentang (fried potato fritters, RM3.10), Telur Dadar Goreng (fluffy fried omelette, RM4.20) and Telur Balado (fried hardboiled egg with red chilli sambal, RM3.10) are also available.

 

Currently, Warung Padang is offering a ‘buy 2 free 1’ deal (subject to terms & conditions) to entice more diners to the new restaurant. Go with a group of friends and you’d have some wallet-friendly savings for your nasi Padang feast.

For reservations, call WARUNG PADANG BY THE MAJAPAHIT, tel: 03 7625 2570. Address: Lot G74, The Street, The Curve, Mutiara Damansara.

A FEAST FOR THE SENSES AT ELEGANT INN

Attention to the tiniest details is restaurateur Jeannette Han's maxim. Still going strong after 15 years at Menara Hap Seng, the understated Elegant Inn Hong Kong Cuisine restaurant remains a firm favourite among discerning Chinese food lovers in the city.

Executive Chef Wesley Ng who cut his teeth in the restaurant scene at the tender age of 19, joined Elegant Inn (E.I.) in 2002. Previously attached to an established Chinese restaurant in Klang, the chef has helmed the E.I. team since then.

A lunch invitation from Jeannette to sample some of E.I.’s crowd-pleasers and signature dishes turned into a languorous and indulgent affair.

Right off the bat, we were spoiled with E.I.’s Happy Start platter comprising Salt & Pepper Hong Kong Silver Fish & Cuttlefish (RM32.80 – Silver Fish, Cuttlefish – RM39.80), Steamed Silky Egg with Pan-seared Hokkaido Scallops & Crab Roe Sauce, and Special Chilled Spoon Delight with Fresh Salmon and Crabmeat.

The steamed egg topped with creamy crab roe was sensuously smooth. Its deliciousness was rivalled by the scrumptious servings of raw salmon strips and crabmeat atop silky noodles; our palate tingled from the appetiser’s tantalising lime dressing.

We also relished the light-as-air batter-coated silver fish and cuttlefish, flecked with salt and pepper. A fine sprinkling of fried and raw garlic bestowed fleeting bursts of sweet and sharp accents as we munched our way through the delectable morsels.

Nothing warms the soul like a hearty tureen of Traditional Double Boiled Soup of Pig Stomach, Peppercorn and Salted Vegetable (RM148.80). Aside from a whole pig’s stomach, salted vegetables and Sarawakian white peppercorns, the salubrious broth suffused our palate with a cacophony of sublime flavours thanks to the bountiful ingredients in it: chicken feet for a touch of viscousness, Yunnan ham for that umami nuance, and free-range kampung chicken and pork ribs for delicate sweetness.

According to Han, the soup should taste clear and sweet on the palate, with a perceptible peppery finish coming through. Kudos to the E.I. team for ensuring it was on-point.

We also sampled several Dim Sum items: Crispy Vegetable Rice Rolls (RM5.20 per pc, min 4 pcs), Steamed Hokkaido Scallop Dumplings (RM) and Steamed Radish Cake with Hong Kong Prawn and Tung Choi (preserved vegetable).

As expected, the dumplings went down a treat; the scallop-prawn filling’s fresh sweetness raveworthy. E.I. also levelled up the Hong Kong-style ‘jar leong’ – flat rice rolls with fried Chinese crullers – by stuffing its silky rice rolls with crispy Vietnamese rice paper, shredded carrot and jicama for better textural interest.

Served with a mildly sweet-salty soy sauce, the rice rolls were a joy to eat. The intermingling textures complemented by the house concocted sauce transformed it into a memorable speciality.

Instead of the tried-and-tested pan-fried radish cake, E.I. steamed theirs. Each mouthful yielded fine radish strips amidst the tender pieces, accentuated with the complex flavours of caramelised Hong Kong dried prawns and preserved vegetable (specially sourced ingredients lugged back by Jeannette from Hong Kong).

After that came a surfeit of fish dishes: Steamed Sea Garoupa Slices on Rice Noodles with Fresh Lemon & Chinese Black Olives (seasonal price), Steamed Atlantic Cod with Fiery Garlic Black Bean Sauce (RM44.80 per 100 g), Golden Fried Atlantic Cod with Chinese Leek Topping (RM44.80 per 100 g) and Ichiyaboshi Threadfin to float our boat.

Suffice to say each fish dish had something distinct going for it. The refreshing lemon tanginess coupled with Chinese black olives gave the superbly fresh and sweet garoupa extra allure; the fish jus soaked up by the ribbons of flat rice noodles so each mouthful was heavenly to savour.

We also fell hook, line and sinker for the smooth and rich cod enhanced with fiery garlic-black bean sauce. Strands of glass noodles were included, to absorb the sweet jus for maximum enjoyment.

The fried version was no less stellar; the fish’s natural richness enlivened by sautéed Chinese leeks, chilli, garlic and light soy sauce.

Our interest was piqued by the ichiya-boshi (literally meaning overnight-dried) method of preparing the threadfin. This preservation technique is also popular in Korea as bountiful catches such as pollack are gutted, butterflied (cut lengthwise and split at the belly), then dipped in sea water before being set out to dry to extend their shelf life and concentrate their flavour. In modern kitchens and eateries, the fish is more likely to be doused with salty solution before it’s laid out to dry in front of fans or a well-ventilated space.

The threadfin we tried was moist and slightly briny. It was a novel experience, sampling the fish accompanied by rolled slices of asam boi-pickled celtuce (asparagus lettuce) and housemade chilli dip.

Reminiscent of a classic Chinese banquet dish, the Golden Boneless Stuffed Chicken with Chicken Tomato Salad (RM113.80 half chicken, RM226.80 whole chicken) proved to be an all-round winner. Who could resist crunching into crackle-crisp chicken skin layered with toothsomely QQ prawn paste?

The chicken meat, shredded and piled atop tomato wedges drizzled with balsamic vinegar, acted as the perfect counterpoint. An outstanding dish guaranteed to delight both young and old.

To cleanse our palate and alleviate all the indulgent food we had partaken, the Signature Fried Bitter Melon with Salted Vegetables (RM36.80) was more than welcome to tickle the tastebuds; the astringent bitter melon contrasting nicely with the salted vegetable’s subtle brininess.

Moreish and soul-satisfying, we couldn’t pass up the chance to partake the Signature Fried Rice (RM43.80). Full of wok hei (that wonderful smokiness only a ultra-hot wok and a skillful chef can produce), every grain vanished in the blink of an eye.

Somehow, we managed to find tummy room for the scrumptious Rice Noodles with Australian M9 Wagyu Beef in Egg Sauce (RM188). The supremely tender beef combined with the noodles in rich eggy sauce garnered praises all round.

Jeannette splurged on four desserts to wrap up our gathering: Golden Custard Cake (RM5 per pc, min 4 pcs), House Made Jujube Cake with Grated Coconut, Teochew Style Tau Suan with Crunchy Sea Cucumber and Double Boiled Hasma In Fresh Almond Cream.

The irresistible offerings are featured in Elegant Inn’s Parents’ Day celebratory menus priced at RM248 per person (min.2 persons) and RM968 for 4 persons and RM1,368 for 6 persons.

Interestingly, the unusual inclusion of sea cucumber caught our fancy in the old-school Teochew tau suan (sweet broth of mung beans). Following our host’s instructions to stir in the sea cucumber pieces but refrain from letting them soak too long in the dessert broth, we found the distinctive taste likeable.

Both the golden custard cake and jujube cake also hit the spot with their enticing softness and discrete sweetness. I was partial to the almond cream with hasma – a timeless choice one cannot go wrong with nor fault.

For reservations at Elegant Inn HK Cuisine, call tel: 03-2070 9399. Address: 2.01, 2nd Floor, Podium Block, Menara Hap Seng, Jalan P. Ramlee, Kuala Lumpur.