TIFA TOUTS ‘THREE IN ONE’ CONCEPT

Tifa means three in Latin. It’s also the name of veteran restaurateur Angie Hiew’s latest venture at Trillion KL.

Insisting her European-inspired restaurant should not be classified as a fine-dining outpost, Angie explains Tifa incorporates three different concepts under one roof.

“Opened last March, Tifa serves reasonably priced good food in cosy, modest surroundings. Every dish, from the mayonnaise to the sauces, is prepared from scratch by me using market-fresh ingredients.”

The restaurant straddles a spacious and well-shaded patio area where quick and affordable meals are served; an al fresco seating area next to an outdoor fountain area meant for chilling out over drinks, and a nicely decorated ‘by reservation only, private kitchen’ dining space.

Angie cut her teeth in the restaurant business when she was just 18 years old, learning the ropes at Movenpick Singapore which belonged to her late husband. She came into her own with the opening of Flamenco Spanish restaurant in 1995, setting the imagination of local food lovers alight with her signature paella, tapas and Spanish wine selection.

After that stellar decade, Angie took a short break before she pivoted into the restaurant consulting business. To date, she was instrumental in the successful openings of Sentidos Tapas at Starhill, and EQ Kuala Lumpur’s Sky 51 and Blue.

The passionate cook relishes being back in the thick of the kitchen action at Tifa. “Seeing people enjoy my cooking gives me great satisfaction. I also love taking care of my guests, and at Tifa, it’s like having friends over except we're in a restaurant environment. I enjoy the freedom and flexibility to curate menus to suit my guests’ preferences; I can customise dishes based on their food intolerances, dietary requirements, and budget. All I need is advance notice so that I’d have enough time to buy the ingredients and prepare whatever’s necessary. I believe people can have a good meal without paying the earth for it.”

As proof, Angie serves good-value lunch deals on weekdays (12pm-3pm) priced from RM25++ upwards per person at Tifa. Her four-course menu degustation starts from RM148++ per person (by advance reservations only).

We are astounded by the pretty as a picture appetiser: the succulent salmon slices with avocado cream and pine nuts tastes as good as they look.

The subsequent forest mushroom soup is lightly creamy with the discernible aroma of truffle oil. Grilled sliced boletus mushroom, cherry tomatoes and edible flowers piled atop a long slice of toast lend colour and textural contrast.

Less is more seems to be Angie’s approach for main courses. She has mango-red capsicum salsa bestowing subtle fruity sweetness to the smoked chicken breast with pommery mustard cream whilst a full-bodied Rioja is used to braise beef cheeks, suffusing the tender chunks of meat with rich, deep flavours. Accompanied by silky mashed potato, the dish leaves us replete.

Her artisan dessert is whimsically delightful to bring the curtains down on your visit to Tifa. Depending on her inclination, it could be a new-fangled black forest cake in the shape of a luscious, oversized ‘cherry’ atop crumbly chocolate ‘soil’, walnuts and fresh strawberries or a pink, heart-shaped lychee-raspberry mascarpone with chocolate flakes and cookie crumble.

Angie says, “I can rustle up whatever my customers fancy as long as they give me enough time to prepare before their intended visit or any occasion they plan to celebrate. Let me work around your budget and expectations. Anything is possible at Tifa.”

TIFA KL, Ground Floor, KL Trillion, 338, Jalan Tun Razak, Kuala Lumpur. Tel: 017-358 1338. Business hours: Monday – Saturday 11am to 11pm (last order 9.30pm). Closed on Sunday.

 

A MICHELIN-STAR DINING EXPERIENCE AT AU JARDIN

No visit to 1-Michelin starred Au Jardin is incomplete without sampling the Cognac & Jay Aged Duck. We were told by the service team the Butterworth-sourced ducks are aged 6-14 days with hay, cognac and orange, and this main course has to be pre-ordered at least two days prior to your visit (with a supplementary charge of RM75).

Presented with some fanfare in a specially designed case filled with smoked hay at the tableside, the delectable duck came served alongside fig gel, figs rehydrated in balsamic, pomme purée, and yuzu split jus. Once we had a taste of the juicy duck breast, we realise why this speciality remains a popular mainstay.

However, the Wild Caught Barracuda with watermelon radish, konbu, cilantro root emulsion, pandan oil was the unheralded show-stopper. The fish’s inherent sweetness was exquisite and the attendant ingredients’ delicate flavours simply amplified it further. I wouldn’t mind a bigger portion of it though.

Even before the Michelin Guide recognition, chef proprietor Su Kim Hock is already making waves among fine food connoisseurs with his artisanal menu designed to showcase the freshest local and seasonal ingredients; shining the spotlight on the culinary traditions of Penang and Malaysia through beautifully crafted dishes.

The 18-seater Au Jardin is located in a quaint repurposed warehouse within the former Hin Bus Depot in Georgetown. As we stepped into the elegant restaurant’s little courtyard adorned with potted orchids, towering palms and a leafy tree, we found its high ceiling let in plenty of light. After ascending a flight of stairs, we found ourselves in a cosy dining space outfitted with a bar and a trio of origami bird-shaped light fixtures serving as the focal point.

 

Au Jardin’s menu degustation (RM388++ per person) not only adheres to Chef Kim Hock’s ‘buy local first’ philosophy, but also showcases with aplomb his skilful culinary expertise, artistry and inspirations drawn from his own culinary journey and past travels.

Our lunch started with two beguiling amuse bouche: dainty nests of dehydrated glass noodles – deep-fried to crunchy crispness – topped with lumpfish emulsion, orange mascarpone and salmon roe, and little charcoal choux pastry balls filled with bacon and truffle cream and crowned with a sliver of white truffle shaving on top. Suffice to say, these left us in eager anticipation of what to expect.

 

Warm, crusty slices of lacto-fermented bread came next, accompanied by house-made tomato chutney butter and curry leaf oil – a flavoursome pairing inspired by thosai.

 

That paved the way for Hericium Mushroom Remoulade, a lush and creamy monkey head mushroom broth dusted with cep powder. For textural contrast, we savoured a diminutive boat-shaped feuille de brick (light lacy-satiny Tunisian pastry dough) with chopped Hericium mushroom, black garlic espuma and kaffir lime leaves.

 

The quenelle of Century Egg Ice Cream served atop diced Hokkaido scallops and century egg ‘white’ was sublime. Tiny coral horn-shaped gingerbread added a touch of playfulness to the ensemble.

 

For a supplementary charge of RM250, the Grand Caviar Au Jardin lent a touch of extravagance to our lunch. Twisting open the tin lid, we dug into the sturgeon caviar-topped picked lobster with cauliflower crémeux using a mother of pearl spoon. It was an indulgent treat but heck, we only live once.

 

A fleeting burst of tongue-prickling heat from the zingy Sichuan pepper emulsion hit our tastebuds when we sampled the Cured Red Snapper Tartare with salted longan jelly and Nashi pear. The cohesive flavours were delicate yet palate-pleasing.

We also opted for the A3 Wagyu (A5 is the other choice) with Celeriac Purée, Jus Maison and Grain Mustard (supplementary charge of RM280). No surprises here as the steak was on-point   - it was a failsafe albeit unexciting choice.

Our faith was restored by the delicious Mussel Parfait Beignets which dialled up the big, hearty flavour quotient. It was a nice teaser before we segued into enjoying the ephemeral sweetness of the Braised Chinese Cabbage.

 

Topped with lumpfish roe, we found a smoky-sweet steamed mussel tucked inside the rolled cabbage. Savoury-sweet braising liquid dotted with parsley oil completed this splendid dish.

 

We adore the Magnum Sorbet – ice lollies made from blended guava and kaffir lime leaves, sheathed in a shell of red wine-infused coconut oil touched with sour plum powder and popping candy. Delightfully refreshing, kudos to the chef for making such ingenious use of our local fruits.

 

It nearly eclipsed the dessert of Over Ripen William Pear with Madagascan Vanilla Ice Cream. Admittedly, this creative treat was enticing in its own right, thanks to the myriad of airy-light textures and sweet subtleties bestowed by vanilla sponge, sugarless meringue, canalé royale and brulée.

Service was personable and attentive – the team took time to explain each and every dish to us, and capably answered our queries. They also anticipated and swiftly attended to our needs throughout the lunch so we had no room for complaints. 

For reservations, contact Au Jardin, tel: 012-428 9594 or book via TableApp. Address: The Warehouse @ Hin Bus Depot, 125, Jalan Timah, Georgetown, Penang. Business hours: Thursday, Friday, Saturday & Sunday: 1130am – 230pm; 5pm – 10pm.

 

SPRING INTO ABUNDANCE AT TOH YUEN, HILTON PETALING JAYA

Premium Yee Sang selection and three Chinese New Year Set Menus are now available at Toh Yuen Chinese Restaurant, Hilton Petaling Jaya to welcome the Year of the Rabbit.

Chef Kelvin Cho selects fresh ingredients, combining them with his ‘less is more’ approach. His aim is to create dishes with a myriad of textures, highlighting the ingredients’ natural sweetness and when it’s necessary, employing a sauce or a touch of salt and pepper to enhance the flavour.

Families and large dining parties can choose from Fortune Set (RM2,188 nett per table of 10 persons), Prosperity Set (RM2,388 nett per table of 10 persons) or Longevity Set (RM2,488 nett per table of 10 persons); available for lunch and dinner.

Add cheer to the Chinese New Year celebration by tossing and stirring up some ‘prosperity’ with colourful and refreshing Yee Sang. Take your pick from Salmon Skin Yee Sang, Norwegian Salmon Yee Sang, Fresh Fruit or Soft Shell Crab Yee Sang (large portion starts from RM178 nett).

 

During the media preview, we sampled several of Chef Kelvin’s signature dishes featured in the celebratory menus.

The first was a Four Seasons Platter, similar to old-school banquet appetisers. His creations include prawns dressed in mayo mixed with diced fruit salad, stir-fried chicken dices with cashews, prawns wrapped in fried beancurd skin coated in a sweetish sauce, and stuffed crabstick in a light eggy sauce.

The thick Braised Fish Maw with Crab Meat and Dried Scallops Soup is best enjoyed hot or else it could taste a little fishy once cooled. 

Instead of plain roast chicken, the chef levels up by offering Roast Chicken with Almond and Butter. An updated crowd-pleaser now with extra crunch and richness.

A classic fixture on many a festive table, the Steamed Snapper with Superior Soy Sauce passes muster. We made quick work of this without complaint; it ticked the right boxes for us. 

Laugh your way throughout the Rabbit Year after you partake some Fragrant Fresh Tiger Prawns with Orange Sauce. Our only grouse is the orange taste was barely detectable. 

The green quota comes in the form of Broccoli with Mushrooms, Razor Clams & Gojiberries, accompanied by delicious parcels of Glutinous Rice with Dried Oyster and Salted Egg Wrapped in Lotus Leaf.

Dessert teases the palate with cold and hot servings of Chilled Longan and Lychee with Strawberries, complemented by Fried Nian Gao shaped into sesame seed-flecked balls.

For reservations or more information, call Toh Yuen Restaurant, Hilton Petaling Jaya, tel: 03-7955 9122, email PETHI_FB@hilton.com or visit www.eatdrinkhilton.com