TIFA TOUTS ‘THREE IN ONE’ CONCEPT

Tifa means three in Latin. It’s also the name of veteran restaurateur Angie Hiew’s latest venture at Trillion KL.

Insisting her European-inspired restaurant should not be classified as a fine-dining outpost, Angie explains Tifa incorporates three different concepts under one roof.

“Opened last March, Tifa serves reasonably priced good food in cosy, modest surroundings. Every dish, from the mayonnaise to the sauces, is prepared from scratch by me using market-fresh ingredients.”

The restaurant straddles a spacious and well-shaded patio area where quick and affordable meals are served; an al fresco seating area next to an outdoor fountain area meant for chilling out over drinks, and a nicely decorated ‘by reservation only, private kitchen’ dining space.

Angie cut her teeth in the restaurant business when she was just 18 years old, learning the ropes at Movenpick Singapore which belonged to her late husband. She came into her own with the opening of Flamenco Spanish restaurant in 1995, setting the imagination of local food lovers alight with her signature paella, tapas and Spanish wine selection.

After that stellar decade, Angie took a short break before she pivoted into the restaurant consulting business. To date, she was instrumental in the successful openings of Sentidos Tapas at Starhill, and EQ Kuala Lumpur’s Sky 51 and Blue.

The passionate cook relishes being back in the thick of the kitchen action at Tifa. “Seeing people enjoy my cooking gives me great satisfaction. I also love taking care of my guests, and at Tifa, it’s like having friends over except we're in a restaurant environment. I enjoy the freedom and flexibility to curate menus to suit my guests’ preferences; I can customise dishes based on their food intolerances, dietary requirements, and budget. All I need is advance notice so that I’d have enough time to buy the ingredients and prepare whatever’s necessary. I believe people can have a good meal without paying the earth for it.”

As proof, Angie serves good-value lunch deals on weekdays (12pm-3pm) priced from RM25++ upwards per person at Tifa. Her four-course menu degustation starts from RM148++ per person (by advance reservations only).

We are astounded by the pretty as a picture appetiser: the succulent salmon slices with avocado cream and pine nuts tastes as good as they look.

The subsequent forest mushroom soup is lightly creamy with the discernible aroma of truffle oil. Grilled sliced boletus mushroom, cherry tomatoes and edible flowers piled atop a long slice of toast lend colour and textural contrast.

Less is more seems to be Angie’s approach for main courses. She has mango-red capsicum salsa bestowing subtle fruity sweetness to the smoked chicken breast with pommery mustard cream whilst a full-bodied Rioja is used to braise beef cheeks, suffusing the tender chunks of meat with rich, deep flavours. Accompanied by silky mashed potato, the dish leaves us replete.

Her artisan dessert is whimsically delightful to bring the curtains down on your visit to Tifa. Depending on her inclination, it could be a new-fangled black forest cake in the shape of a luscious, oversized ‘cherry’ atop crumbly chocolate ‘soil’, walnuts and fresh strawberries or a pink, heart-shaped lychee-raspberry mascarpone with chocolate flakes and cookie crumble.

Angie says, “I can rustle up whatever my customers fancy as long as they give me enough time to prepare before their intended visit or any occasion they plan to celebrate. Let me work around your budget and expectations. Anything is possible at Tifa.”

TIFA KL, Ground Floor, KL Trillion, 338, Jalan Tun Razak, Kuala Lumpur. Tel: 017-358 1338. Business hours: Monday – Saturday 11am to 11pm (last order 9.30pm). Closed on Sunday.

 

WINSOME CULINARY GEMS AT BURI

Signature BURI Maki

A rolled sushi crowned with six different toppings: spicy salmon; scallop with avocado; sweet prawns with a cube of foie gras; marinated ikura (salmon roe); unagi with slivers of cucumber and crabstick dotted with caviar makes up the visually pleasing Buri Signature Maki (RM45).

It’s one of the many signature specialities by Chef Steve Chua and his partner Chef Edmund Chong for BURI by Two Chefs, a new Japanese outpost which opened on 9 September by the award-winning Two Chefs Lab team.

 

Named after the prized Japanese yellowtail, it’s a propitious indication of how well Chua and Chong have weathered the challenging times. A champion of the prestigious World Sushi Cup in Malaysia, and winner of the World Gourmet Award, the talented chefs now aim to win diners’ hearts, minds and palates with an even more tempting and creative selection – straddling crowd-pleasing sashimi and sushi, rice bowls and slightly fusion offerings like grilled lamb and torched black pork carpaccio at BURI.

As for the Buri Signature Maki, it’s a sublime serving worth savouring slowly. The freshness of each ingredients is unquestionable, and you’d have to take time to appreciate the myriad of textural contrasts and complementing flavours emerging from each of the morsels.

The creative handiwork is underscored in the whole platter so the resultant rolled sushi is not only visually pleasing, but it also teases sensuously. Suffice to say, the proof is truly in the eating.

When it comes to curtain-raisers, the beautifully presented Avocado Salad (RM22) is one of many notable choices. The profusion of fresh greens with mashed avocado decked with lotus root crisps, cherry tomatoes, beetroot spirals and a dollop of ebiko will spur salad-averse diners to load up without nary a complaint.

I give extra points for the Japanese sesame dressing being house made – it isn’t overly cloying, and used with restraint in the salad.

Prefer a tummy-warming appetiser? Then consider the Foie Gras Chawan Mushi (RM14.50). Silky smooth steamed egg custard topped with cubes of savoury rich foie gras...heavenly indulgence!

As Malaysian consumers become more sophisticated, some are beginning to realise it’s worth paying for good quality pork and beef. Hence the increased interest and demand for premium Waygu and Iberico. At BURI you’d have a chance to sample Kuro Buta Carpaccio (RM19).

Served with housemade chilli vinegar sauce, each piece of the juicy and tender sliced black pork is akin to a flavour bomb; an enticement for repeat helpings.

Diners with hearty appetite will enjoy BURI’s Gyu Don (RM42). Sliced Aussie beef complemented by an onsen Kenkori egg, two slices of takuan (Japanese yellow pickled radish) and chopped scallion graced the Japanese rice bowl.

While Aussie beef is already known in the local market for its eating quality, Kenkori eggs have yet to achieve that level of mass awareness. Produced using Japanese farming methods in Malaysia – the first of its kind – Kenkori eggs are enriched with Japanese Astaxanthin and Probiotic, are antibiotic and hormone-free, and are anti-salmonella and e.coli. These two ingredients already raise the quality standard of this particular rice bowl.

To further amplify and bring finesse to his culinary creation, the chef uses shio kombu and truffle oil as the finishing touches. According to Bon Appétit, “shio kombu are kelp boiled in soy sauce, mirin, and sugar, then dried and cut into small pieces. The flavor and aroma are intensely sweet with a hint of the ocean.”

With white rice serving as the canvas for all the different ingredients to meld and form a wondrous picture on the tastebuds, I daresay you’d find it hard not to succumb to such a heartwarming offering.

Japanese dessert is always simple and light and BURI follows the same philosophy. Try Warabi Mochi (RM12)– a summery Japanese jelly-like confection made from bracken or potato starch, served with kinako (toasted soybean powder) and a scoop of yuzu sherbet.

For more information and reservations, please call BURI By Two Chefs, tel: 03-97663438, hp: 010-5539910. Address: E-1-1, Pusat Perdagangan Bandar, Jalan Persiaran Jalil 1, Bukit Jalil, Kuala Lumpur. Business hours: Monday to Saturday from 1130 am to 8pm.