HOT HITS OF CILI KAMPUNG

Cili Kampung’s show-stealing Gulai Nangka with Pucuk Manis (RM35) won us over at first bite. The chunks of tender young jackfruit and leafy Sabah vegetable (sauropus androgynus) in coconut milk had such well-balanced flavours, we instantly went for repeat helpings.

From the legendary isle of Langkawi comes Cili Kampung’s range of traditional Malay family recipes to tempt Klang Valley folks.

To evoke laidback kampung vibes at the Suria KLCC outlet, fish traps double up as pendant lights, clusters of potted palms and greenery along with paintings of kampung life and little replicas of kampung houses are artfully incorporated into the resto’s décor. There is even a cosy, well-designed private dining room with rustic touches.

The hot and spicy level of its classic kampung fare remain true to local expectations, and our recent lunch was proof of that. Sampling the Sambal Cili Api Chicken (RM40) left us hot and sweaty: the tongue-searing blend of green and red chillies, garlic and red onion was punchy and nice. 

To douse the 'fire', we sought cool comfort in house drinks such as Lychee Lime & Rose (RM16), Bunga Telang Selasih (butterfly pea flower drink with basil seeds RM14), Sirap Pandan Kenduri (RM8) and Rambutan Lengkong (a mildly sweet concoction of diced grass jelly, goji berries and red dates, RM14).

Feasting on the rich and aromatic Beef Masak Lomak (RM48) – sliced beef in a blend of ground chillies, turmeric, coconut milk, lemongrass and turmeric leaves was sublime. Best eaten with rice, the yellow curry can also be prepared with fish, chicken, squid, prawns or hornshell (siput balitong).

Spicy-hot with a tinge of sourness, the signature Asam Pedas Tenggiri (RM65) included aromatic daun kesum (polygonum minus), kaffir lime leaves, torch ginger flower and lemongrass to bestow it with depth and complexity. Okra lent textural interest to the dish.

We found several sizeable prawns in the Sambal Petai Prawns (RM65). TBH, this dish could do with less oil and more petai (stink beans) though you can request for extra petai for extra RM10.

 

A colourful ensemble of palm sugar ice cubes, green cendol jelly, red beans, sweet corn, buttered crumbs, fresh jackfruit strips, fresh milk and coconut ice cream making up Mama Cendol (RM22) hit our sweet spot for the finale.

Richer on the palate was Onde Onde Puding Bakar (RM25), a nice take of kuih bakar, a rich coconut milk-based cake baked over hot coals. Made of buttered bread with pandan and coconut milk, the dessert with layers of palm sugar and grated roasted coconut, came with homemade vanilla sauce.

Conceived to showcase local produce, Bukit Kelapa (RM25) enticed us with triple scoops of coconut ice cream with gula melaka syrup, crushed cookie crumbs, honeycomb, and mixed nuts.

Next time you’re in the mood for some kampung-style fare, trek home to Cili Kampung for your share of comforting Malay food in the city.

For reservations at Cili Kampung, call tel: 014-965 6124. Address: Lot 432 - 433 & OS401, Suria KLCC, Kuala Lumpur. Business hours: 11 am – 10 pm daily

 

KOPITIAM EXPERIENCE AT DORSETT GRAND SUBANG

Hankering for some good old kopitiam fare such as Nasi Lemak, Roti Bakar with Butter & Kaya or Soft-boiled Kampung Eggs with your fave cuppa? Foreign and local guests of Dorsett Grand Subang can now enjoy a first-hand experience of eating in a local kopitiam Mon-Fri, 10.30 am to 5 pm without stepping out of the hotel.

Priced at RM12.80 nett per order inclusive of a cup of Milo, Teh Tarik, Kopi Lokal or Nescafe Tarik, you can select Roti Bakar (toast) with Butter & Kaya (local egg jam), Soft-boiled Kampung Eggs, Nasi Lemak Bungkus, Cucur Udang (2 pcs), Giant Chicken Curry Puffs, Popiah Goreng (2 pcs) or Portuguese Egg Tart.

We gave thumbs up to the delicious Nasi Lemak. Wrapped in banana leaf lined paper, the coconut cream-enriched rice was fragrant and went like a dream with the sambal which had a hint of sweetness to it. Ubiquitous accompaniments: a slice of omelette, sliced cucumber, and fried peanuts with ikan bilis (anchovies) lent textural interest.

Unlike Cucur Udang (prawn fritters) sold elsewhere where the prawns are non-existent, we are pleased to find several small prawns atop the crispy pieces. Served with a chilli dip, the fritters were so delectable we couldn’t resist a second helping.

Another on-point offering was Popiah Goreng. The generous filling of shredded jicama, carrot and mushroom inside the fried spring rolls was reminiscent of Penang Nyonya-style chun piah.

As a fan of local curry puff, I was delighted to find the Giant Chicken Curry Puff came up to scratch. Besides diced potato and chicken, it included a wedge of hardboiled egg.

 

If you’re slanted towards Continental fare, individual portions of Big Breakfast (RM48 nett) are served from 11am to 3pm daily. A hearty plate big enough to two light eaters to share, it consisted of fluffy scrambled egg, chicken sausages, crisp beef bacon strips, baked beans, sautéed mushrooms, hash browns, cherry tomatoes, salad, and slices of buttered toast.

MOONLIT SERENITIY

Celebrate the upcoming Mid-Autumn Festival with Halal mooncakes from Dorsett Grand Subang, available now until 29 September.

Perennial best sellers: Premium Musang King Durian Snowskin Mooncake (top right, RM63) and Dorsett Signature Blue Mooncake (bottom right, RM43) comprising white lotus paste single yolk encased in organic blue pea flower snowskin continue to be the top draw among Dorsett guests.

The sweetness of the Signature Blue mooncake is just nice, with the salted egg yolk giving the lotus paste filling balance. We also like the inclusion of kuaci (melon seeds) in it.

A standout in our book this year is the Honey Purple Potato Paste with Single Yolk in Lemongrass Snowskin (RM43). The delicious sweet potato paste melds harmoniously with the fresh herbaceous-lemony imbued snowskin.

A touch of bright sweetness from yuzu honey citron lends distinct edge to the baked variant of Pandan Lotus Paste Single Yolk in Yuzu Honey Citron (RM43). Although it's an unlikely combo, the flavours work like a charm.

Made from pure Musang King pulp, you'd realise why it remains such a hit with mooncake fans of the Premium Musang King Durian Snowskin. The luscious taste is incomparable and as good as eating the actual fruit.

Dorsett Mooncake Gift Set (RM128 nett) makes gifting easier for the Mid-Autumn Festival celebration. It comprises a set of 4 baked mooncakes and a box of 10 sachets Rhymba Hills sampler. 

For more information, call Dorsett Grand Subang, tel: 03 5031 6060.

SEAFOOD GALORE AT PENGHULU SEAFOOD

Penghulu Crisp Fried Thai Style (market price) or ‘Lai Sa’ Fish in Chinese, was the show-stealer during our maiden lunch at Penghulu Seafood.

Sliced then coated in a sheer dusting of flour, the fish slices were fried until crisp. Afterwards the tilapia slices were assembled back as a whole fish, served with a heap of sliced onion, chilli, curry leaves and fried garlic crisps. We enjoyed the deliciously on-point fish. A separate dip of plum sauce, kalamansi lime juice and sugar lent it extra boost of flavour (not that the fish needed it).

This was one of the dishes at Penghulu Seafood. The restaurant specialises in Muslim-friendly Chinese cuisine with 46-year-old chef Wan Yee Kwong helming the kitchen team. Ikan bakar (grilled fish) and steamboat with fresh seafood and premium ingredients are also on the menu.

Us avid noodle fans thoroughly relished the Fried Tenderloin Beef Noodles (small RM24, medium RM35, large RM46). Topped with a thick, eggy sauce, the subtly smoky-charred noodles and sliced beef primed our appetite in anticipation of other goodies to come.

 

Thai and local influences melded nicely in the Grilled Stingray. Marinated with a dash of turmeric, the fleshy stingray’s natural sweetness proved enticing. Such a pity the two accompanying sauces were a tad watery and failed to perk up the dish. Hopefully the restaurant will work on improving the sauces.

 

Don’t let the fiery hues of the E San Seafood Tom Yum (S RM24, M RM30, L RM44) be a deterrent as the well-balanced soup tasted milder than expected. Chilli fiends can always request for the hotness to be dialled up.

 

Surrounded by deep-fried shredded kailan, the Garlic Mixed Seafood with Kailan (S RM50, M RM75, L RM100) proffered a nice milieu of textural contrasts: tender and springy squid and prawns touched with a Thai-style dressing of fish sauce, chilli, salt, sugar and lime juice against the savouriness of crispy greens, silverfish and dried shrimps.

According to the chef, his Pattaya Chicken (S RM24, M RM35, L RM45) was another pseudo-Thai creation. After the chicken had to be fried using the ‘oil bath’ method, the chook came piled with sliced onion, fresh coriander, Thai chilli and fish sauce, and lime juice. The chicken was tender and juicy, with the piquant sauce tantalising our tastebuds.

A surefire crowd-pleaser, the Belacan Four King Vegetables (S RM20, M RM28, L RM38) comprising long beans, petai (stink beans), eggplant and okra stir-fried with pounded chilli and belacan (shrimp paste) was robustly spicy.

The chef’s Chilli Prawns (S RM42, M RM60, L RM80) – sizeable crustaceans drenched in a mouth-watering tomato-chilli sauce, echoed the flavourful accents of Singapore’s chilli crabs.

 

We found the salt and pepper accentuated Deep-fried Soft Shell Crabs (M RM44, L RM85) passed muster whilst Teochew-style Steamed Jenahak (snapper, market price) with its requisite accompaniments: sliced beancurd, kiam chye (salted mustard leaves)and shiitake mushrooms should appeal to those who prefer clear, understated flavours.

For dessert, you may order Thai Pumpkin Custard from Penghulu Seafood’s sister restaurant E San Thai next door. The delightfully soft steamed pumpkin with its custardy centre was the perfect closure to our indulgent lunch.

For reservations, call Penghulu Seafood at 011-5633 6377. Address: G-G-3A, Block G, Jalan PJU1A/3, Ara Damansara, Petaling Jaya, Malaysia. Business hours: Mon-Thurs 11.30am – 3pm, 5pm – 10pm. Fri 11.30 – 3pm. Closed Tuesday.