Great Balls For Trial...Cuttlefish balls & Stuffed Beancurd Rolls
Wednesday, August 17, 2005
A TASTE OF TRADITION
Ipoh has always been famous for its silky smooth ‘hor fun’ (thin, flat rice noodles), crunchy beansprouts and delicious chicken rice. But if you are residing in KL and Selangor, why not enjoy these traditional Ipoh delights at Restoran Chan Thoong Kee?This unassuming outlet serves possibly one of the best tasting Ipoh ‘hor fun’ that I have ever eaten. The smooth rice noodles can be enjoyed in flavourful, clear chicken broth with shredded chicken, sliced prawns and aromatic Chinese chives or dry-tossed with superior grade oyster sauce. Priced at RM4.00 (small) and RM5.00 (big) per bowl, I can assure it is worth every ringgit you pay for it.
What made the ‘kon lo’ noodles so distinctive is the use of superior grade oyster sauce that is imported directly from Hong Kong. Redolent with the enticing aroma of dried oysters, its slightly sweeter formulation complements the thin strips of bland rice noodles very well.
Savour the fresh prawn ‘wan tan’ (RM6.00 small, RM12.00 large) here - the dumplings consist of whole prawns that are springy to the bite, a testament to their superb freshness.
My parents and hubby always go for the ‘wan tan’ mee or egg noodles (RM5.00 small, RM6.00 big) in soup or tossed with dark soya sauce and fragrant oil. Their nice, mildly chewy texture do not have the usual chalky smell or taste of ‘kan sui’ (lye water).
Additional side dishes to sample include beancurd rolls (deep-fried rolls of beancurd sheets filled with fish paste, RM1.00 per piece) and cuttlefish balls (a mixture of fish paste and finely chopped dried cuttlefish, RM1.00 each).
If you are a 'farn toong' (a die-hard rice eater), the Hainanese chicken rice (RM4.00) is highly recommended. The rice is tasty and fragrant without being overly greasy and will leave you wanting more with the smooth, succulent steamed chicken.
Diners can also order ‘tong sui’ or sweet dessert broth from the adjacent Foong Wong Café to end their meal. Freshly made on a daily basis, the sweet broths available include ‘foo chok yee mai’ (barley with gingko and bean curd sheet), red bean soup, ‘tow foo far’ (soft beancurd dessert), sweet potato in sugar syrup and sea coconut with longans.
All the ‘tong sui’ broths are priced at RM1.80 per bowl except for the sea coconut with longans which is served at RM3.00 per bowl.
I truly believe the outlet’s consistency in maintaining its food quality and great value-for-money will continue to draw us and legions of their customers back.
Other Chan Thoong Kee branches are located at Berjaya Times Square and Jalan Hang Lekir, Kuala Lumpur.
RESTORAN CHAN THOONG KEE (non-halal)
No 11 Jalan Barat
Off Jalan Imbi
55100 Kuala Lumpur
Tel : 2142 2779
STEAKING IT OUT
Small cake that's big on taste - guaranteed to make you break out in song!
Scrumptious Charcoal-Grilled Lamb Steak - no sauce required
Char-grilled NZ Steak at its best!
It's hard to imagine a good steak is best savoured without sauce. But here's what Somerset Grill is advocating. The owner, Augustine Kow, who has spent his tertiary education years in New Zealand, is keen to educate local palates on the fine art of appreciating steaks on its own. Using prime cuts of NZ beef and lamb of course.
Kow's personal interest and inherent talent for cooking and eating probably stems from his Hainanese background. His father was a cook and used to work for Federal Hotel in Kuala Lumpur. But it was not until recently that Kow has the chance to pursue his interest in food - bread and butter issues took precedence as he focused his energy on building his jewellery and watch business.
With Somerset Grill, Kow is aiming to recapture the fond memories of great steaks that he had in NZ.
“When you pay to eat steak, we believe that is exactly what you should be getting,” said Kow firmly. “I want our customers to be able to taste the meat’s natural flavour, its juiciness, its tender and succulent texture, instead of steaks with sauces that disguise or overwhelm the meat’s taste and texture.”
Here the beef and lamb are marinated or ‘aged’ for a day or two with specially concocted herbs and spices, based on recipes that he has kept with him for the past 20 years. The chefs are trained for 3-6 months on the finer rudiments of using the charcoal grill to produce varying degrees of doneness for the steaks.
Opened about one and a half years ago, Somerset Grill is located along the busy main road leading into the residential area of Taman Tun Dr Ismail.
The outlet has a relaxed and friendly ambience about it. Several beautiful Tiffany ceiling and standing lamps make for interesting conversation pieces whilst you wait for your food to arrive. For the prices that you pay here, do not expect fine-dining service but the young wait staff is alert enough to ensure diners are promptly attended to.
Light eaters can opt for the Augus goulash (RM9.90), a hearty lamb stew that is cooked for over three hours with lots of root vegetables and fragrant herbs, or their delicious pies – Marco Polo (filled with chunky chicken, melted cheese, diced vegetables and spices, RM9.90), Sinbad’s Diet (fish, tuna and crabmeat pie) and Nemo’s Choice (salmon pie, RM9.90).
The best-selling items are the Somerset Rib Eye (RM33.90) and the Augus Lamb (RM21.90). When the steaks were served, we were already salivating after inhaling whiffs of the dishes’ mouth-watering aroma.
The Somerset Rib Eye is quite substantial. We had asked for it to be medium rare and it turned out exactly to specifications. Extremely tender and moist with a delicate briny after taste, the meat has a splendid smokiness in it. Don’t turn your nose up on the side dishes as the simple salad of shredded lettuce and cabbage actually complemented the steaks very well.
For those with a penchant for lamb, the Augus Lamb is splendid with its elegant peppery and slightly nutty nuances similar to that of a refined, well-marinated lamb ‘satay’. Other equally salubrious choices include the Somerset t-bone steak (RM38.90), Somerset sirloin (RM32.90), Somerset Bay char-grilled salmon (RM23.90) and Somerset Valley spring chicken (RM18.90).
Dessert mostly consists of cakes in singular servings. The Opera cake (RM8.90) is irresistible with layers of coffee almond cream alternating with Japonais biscuit mix whilst the Chocolate Exotica (RM9.90) is an indulgent treat of French chocolate mousse and hazelnut paste with a soft-centred filling of chocolate praline.
If you prefer something slightly fruity, sample the Oona Apple Pie (RM6.90), a Swiss apple pie with cinnamon and raisins or the Apple Cheese Cake (RM9.90), a rich cream cheese cake with apple dices.
The remaining sweet treats include Cappuccino Corretto (RM8.90), Hungarian Walnut (RM7.90), Felchlin Caramel (RM9.90), Mocha Glory (RM6.90) and Mississippi Mud Brownie (RM6.50).
Somerset Grill definitely makes the cut if you want to enjoy a good steak and other Western-style dishes without having to spend a fortune.
SOMERSET GRILL (pork-free)
No 10 Jalan Tun Mohd Fuad
Taman Tun Dr Ismail
60000 Kuala Lumpur
Tel : 7722 1678
Business hours – daily 11 am to 3 pm; 6 pm to 11 pm
Tuesday, August 09, 2005
THAI THAT BINDS
Unusual but nice...deep-fried chicken with herbs make superb mouthfuls
Som Tam - green papaya salad to whet the appetite
Tantalising Deep-fried Catfish with Mango Salad
Meet Ahmad Rasly Hj Osman and his wife, Sandy who are determined to offer genuine and affordable Thai food in Kuala Lumpur.
Having worked in Bangkok for the past six years, the couple were often told by the many Malaysian friends who visited them that it is virtually impossible to find delicious yet reasonably priced Thai dishes back home. So upon their return, Rasly decided to open Baan Khun Li (‘baan’ means house, ‘Khun’ is the Thai honorific for ‘Mr’ and ‘Li’ as in Rasly) which translate into 'House of Mr Li'.
The outlet itself is simply decorated with a Thai statuette at the main door, and some dark wood accents and Thai woven fabric hangings on its walls. Warm mood lighting that lends the place a cosy feel.
Most of the outlet's specialties are culled from Sandy's collection of recipes with the balance coming from their chef.
You must order the green papaya salad (RM8) as a starter to whet the appetite with its tantalizing tartness.
Then go for the tom yam seafood (RM14-small, RM22-large) which is guaranteed to bring a tear or two to your eyes and awaken your palate with its robust spicy and sour nuances. It also has a lovely creamy finishing from the addition of coconut milk whilst squid, prawns, sliced fish, oyster and button mushroom complete this mouth-watering concoction.
If you are looking for something different, deep-fried catfish with mango salad (RM12) is a good bet. The outlet uses fresh catfish bought from the Sunday Thai market in Petaling Jaya (outside the Siamese Buddhist Temple) specially to make this dish. A painstaking dish to produce, we were told the catfish needs to boiled, deboned and flaked before it is deep-fried over high heat with dried chilli. As a result, the fish flakes turn out nice and crispy and are served with roasted peanuts and a bowl of salty, spicy and tangy mango salad. Yummy!
Other enjoyable dishes include deep-fried seabass with Thai chilli sauce (RM25), fried chicken and herbs (RM10), Massaman bef curry (RM15) and steamed seabass with garlic and chilli (RM25).
The Massaman beef curry here is light and creamy with tender and chunky beef pieces, potatoes and ground peanuts. Although the fried chicken with herbs was a little nondescript at first, we eventually found that it tasted quite superb when both the chicken and the mixture of deep-fried garlic slices, strands of tiny green peppercorns, shredded ginger, lemon grass and kaffir lime leaves are eaten together.
Desserts were sold out the evening we went to Baan Khun Li but I found they usually serve Thai cendol and ‘tab tim krob’ or chilled waterchesnuts dices in coconut milk at RM5 each.
So now what are you waiting for? Go on, head over to Mr Li’s house for a real Thai home-cooked meal.
The outlet can seat up to 60 persons inside and 40 persons outside at the patio area.
BAAN KHUN LI (pork-free)
Lot 13A Perdana The Place
No 1 Jalan PJU 8/5G
Bandar Damansara Perdana
47820 Petaling Jaya
Tel: 7727 1780 / 7726 2713
Business hours – Monday-Saturday 12 noon to 3 pm; 6 pm to 10 pm
Monday, July 25, 2005
CHERRY-O!
Many Malaysians balk at the mere mention of cherries because they mistook the flaming red maraschino or glaced cherries for the real thing.
I can assure you fresh cherries taste nothing like the ones preserved in the bitter-sweet liqueur. Instead, they are plump, juicy and delightfully sweet - one of the best summer fruits that we are now lucky enough to savour with the advent of modern-day logistics.
My girlfriend who reps for the Washington State Agricultural Marketing Board, often clues me in on when the cherry season arrives and this year, she even asked if I'd like to buy a box of fresh cherries for my own enjoyment. Despite the rather steep price, I was not to be deterred and agreed immediately to order a box.
These diamond of fruits are worth every single sen I paid for them. Of course, I was unable to gorge a 9kg box of cherries in a sitting so I played fairy godmother and distributed the lovely fruits around to family and friends.
My only regret was not taking a shot or two of these superb fruits whilst I had them - my girlfriend and I shared a box of Bing and a box of Rainier between us so we had the best of both cherries so to speak! Nevertheless, they were truly out of this world...even my other half who usually refuses to eat fruits, polished off more than his fair share of cherries! My kid loves them too...
The Bing cherries with their shiny, mahogany skin and lightly tart sweetness were just too good for words. They turned out to be more sturdy despite my not-so-careful handling so they lasted a wee bit longer than the delicate Rainier cherries. Of the two, the latter was sweeter with a delicate crunch. But they bruise easily and ripen incredibly quickly so we really had to raced against time to finish the whole lot!
Sweet cherries were first discovered in Asia Minor (present day Turkey). Dispersed throughout prehistoric Europe, cherries were brought to America by ship in 1629 and modern sweet cherry growing began in the Northwest of the United States of America when Henderson Lewelling transported nursery stock from Iowa to Western Oregon.
Did you know that the ‘Bing’ variety was named after one of Lewelling's Chinese workmen? It was on this farm that the cherry tree was first developed from seeds in 1875.
It takes a new tree nearly 10 years to reach maturity. The crop volume and quality are susceptible to many factors – fluctuating temperatures are a constant threat. New buds form on the tree following harvest and remain dormant for the next season. Frost is hazardous to these delicate buds and if the temperature drops to ‘bud-kill threshold’, cherry growers have to use wind machines, orchard heaters and overhead sprinklers to ‘warm’ bud temperatures.
Each spring, thousands of bees are specially brought in by the cherry growers to their orchards to ensure the cherry blossoms are pollinated or else the blooms will not turn into fruits. It generally takes about 65 days to grow the Northwest Cherries to full maturity.
At harvesting stage, rain can be a real nightmare as temperature, wind speed, amount and duration of rainfall can cause the cherries to absorb too much water and burst! To minimize damage, the cherry growers will rely on wind machines to dry the cherry trees. Some orchard owners even go to the extent of hiring helicopters to hover at specific heights to blow the rain water off the fruits!
The cherries are allowed to ripen completely on the trees before they are handpicked at the peak of their freshness and flavour. Harvesting usually occurs between mid-June and mid-August.
Since the fruits are highly perishable, the cherries are manually collected in shallow bins to minimize bruising and kept covered to prevent the stems from drying. The cherries are then ‘hydrocooled’ – a practice that douses the cherries with ice-cold water when they arrive at the packing house and as they move through packing lines. Industry-developed tools for measuring cherry firmness and sugar content help ensure quality before the cherries are packed in sturdy cardboard boxes with polyliners to maintain a high humidity level and a low level of oxygen surrounding the fruit.
The golden-skinned ‘Rainier’ cherries with pinkish-red blush which come from the crossing of two dark sweet varieties, the ‘Bing’ and the ‘Van’, are especially fragile, requiring ten times the labour per acre to harvest compared to dark cherries.
Unlike the dark sweet cherries that need only harvesting once, the ‘Rainier’ cherry tree may be harvested as many as eight times as the delicate cherries do not ripen uniformly. They also require specially designed, foam-lined picking containers to hold the fruits to reduce impact and handling, thus maintaining their fine texture, clear-coloured flesh and delicate, sweet flavour.
A good source of fibre, Vitamin C and essential minerals such as calcium and potassium, cherries are low in calories and fat. They are also sodium- and cholesterol-free and relatively high in anthocyanins, a family of antioxidants that have the ability to reduce the risk of cardiovascular disease.
Although nothing beats the wonderful taste of fresh cherries, these delightful fruits are remarkably versatile and can be used for a wide variety of desserts.
Some of the cherry desserts that we have sampled at the Sheraton Imperial KL included cherry blackforest cake, cherry trifle, cherry butter cake, cherry cheesecake, cherry crumble, cherry mousse, cherry rice pudding, cherry roulade, walnut cherry cake, cherry tartlets, cherry clafoutis, cherry crêpes and cherry cheese strudel amongst others.
The cherry blackforest cake is top notch – the dark, rich chocolate cake is the perfect foil for the Bing cherries. Quite similar to this is the cherry roulade, miniature chocolate Swiss rolls of cream and cherry halves.
We also liked the cherry strudel with its layers of light, airy puff pastry filled with creamy ricotta cheese, mildly sweet custard and cherry halves.
Don’t make the mistake of eating the cherry butter cake on its own. It can be rather dry and unimpressive of its own. Add a scoop of vanilla ice-cream to it and you'd be amazed how fabulous it can taste! Ever had a cherry brûlée before? If not, you must try this luscious dessert that has fresh, plump cherries and ricotta cheese in it. Another outstanding creation is the walnut cherry cake that combined the fabulous Rainier cherries with the distinctive flavour of chopped walnuts.
Besides these desserts, you can enjoy fresh cherries with ice-cream and yoghurt, or blend them with milk and cream to make cherry ice-cream, or use them in your favourite salads. There is really no limit to what you can do with these splendid fruits. If you like more information on cherries or tips and recipes, visit www.nwcherries.com. Cherry-o everyone!
Tuesday, June 28, 2005
GOOD THAI-DINGS
Not all Thai restaurants are created equal. Not where Montien - the newest Thai restaurant that has just opened recently at One Bangsar is concerned.
Owners, Sita Jayadeva and Vivian Chan are not kidding when their outlet boasts of a 'Truly Thai' tagline. With a treasure trove of Thai recipes inherited from Sita's mother, the two best pals since school days are determined that Montien will continue the legacy where the now defunct Café d’Chiangmai, a Thai restaurant owned by Sita's mother in Penang for the past 28 years left off.
Now a trained chef in her own right, Sita Jayadeva acquired her passion for food and cooking skills from her mother. Together with Chan, they conceived everything for Montien from scratch with stunning results.
Firstly, its interior furnishings are significantly different from other Thai restaurants with nary a wooden sculpture nor carving in sight. Befitting its Thai name of heavenly palace, Montien is modern and chic with predominantly dark wood and frosted glass accents in stark, clean lines. Walls are done up in warm hues whilst Thai silk throw cushions add soft bursts of colours throughout.
The outlet has been garnering rave reviews since its opening. Already many customers are fast becoming their regulars who return to dine with family and friends twice or thrice weekly, and helping to spread the word.
So what is so different about its food? Since most of the recipes are culled from Sita’s personal collection, diners can expect some delicious surprises. Having dined there on two occasions, I dare say Montien’s specialties left a most favourable impression.
The fish skin ‘kerabu’ or salad known as Yam Narng Pla Krob (RM20++) is a tantalizing starter with pieces of deep-fried red snapper skin tossed in a refreshingly tart and mildly salty salad of sliced tomatoes, red chilli, onion and coriander.
Moving on to its signature dishes, you must try its mouth-watering ‘Nahm Prik’ concoctions - tasty Thai relishes eaten with fresh vegetables.
The Nahm Prik Long Rea (RM14++) is a thick dipping concoction made with minced chicken, dried prawns and salted egg. Served with a platter of raw long beans, sliced cucumber and cabbage, fried brinjal, steamed okra and crisp-fried flaked catfish, the flavourful dip proved to be so irresistible that even my dining partner who usually shun veggies, ate this healthy platter without any complaint!
I can hardly wait to return and savour the others – Nahm Prik Kapi (spicy shrimp paste relish), Nahm Prik Pla Tu (mortar-pounded frigate mackerel relish), Nahm Prik Ma Krea Yau (brinjal and egg relish) and Nahm Prik Kung Kaew Khai Tom (glass prawns and boiled egg relish).
Special mention also must be made of the Montien Platter (RM20++) that entices you with a great combination of Thai ‘money bags’ (a daintier version of Chinese wontons), prawn cakes, stuffed beancurd with minced prawns and chicken, steamed sago balls filled with minced chicken served with fresh chilli and lettuce.
Another ‘must try’ is Khanom Jeen or Thai Laksa. Rice noodles are accompanied by fresh vegetables such as beansprouts, long beans, shredded cabbage and cucumber, salted vegetables and a lime wedge in a rich fish (RM18++) or prawn (RM22++) curry. It was a splendid combination of flavours and textures, with the smooth rice noodles acting as the perfect foil for the aromatic and creamy curry with the raw, crunchy vegetables tempering the gravy’s richness. Personally I found this scrumptious Thai laksa as good, if not better than the one that I had tasted in Bangkok last year.
If you are partial to curries, the Chu Chi Kung (RM30++), prawns cooked in a special Thai curry paste and Massaman – Thai Muslim curry (RM25++) will certainly whet your appetite.
The large, fresh prawns came split in halves, generously covered with thick, fiery red gravy. Redolent with exotic Thai spices and shredded kaffir lime leaves, the sublime prawn curry tasted out of this world. Not overly spicy but enough to leave your tastebuds tingling.
Just when we thought nothing could outshine this rich, indulgent delicacy, along came the Massaman lamb curry (RM25++). This delicious Southern Thai Muslim curry originated as far back as the 16th century. It is hard not to be enthralled with this superb dish of tender cubes of lamb and potatoes prepared with fragrant Thai spices, sliced onions and crisp-fried sliced shallots. We found that the Thai cardamoms in the gravy – they look like chickpeas but are smaller in size – imbued the curry with a delicate citrusy-peppery aroma and taste.
Set lunch priced at RM25++ per person is now available to cater to the office crowd who wish to enjoy a quick, sumptuous lunch. The menu changes weekly and will comprise two starters, rice with a curry, dessert and a cup of jasmine tea. The first lunch menu, for example, will incorporate Hor Mok (a smooth mixture of fish, curry paste and coconut milk steamed in banana leaf cups), Thai mango salad with minced salted egg and dried shrimps, green chicken curry with white rice and caramelized tapioca with coconut cream.
“It also serves as a good introduction to our specialties for those who have yet to try us,” said Vivian.
Dessert runs the gamut of the usual Tham Thim Grob (waterchestnuts and sliced jackfruit in fragrant coconut milk RM7++) to the less commonly found Ma Muang Nahm Pla Wan (crunchy green mango sliced and served with special Nahm Pla Wan dip RM10++). We sampled the Man Chiem (RM7++), a delightful Thai dessert of steamed tapioca topped with coconut cream and sesame seeds, and Khao Niaw Thurian (RM12++).
The former came up to expectations – we also had this on our previous visit and it was just as good. Now if you are die-hard lover of the King of Fruits, then the latter is an absolute ‘must have’. The glutinous rice was warm and had a lovely chewy texture. Generously topped with sinfully sweet and creamy durian purée and smooth coconut cream, it was just heavenly! Our only worry is this dessert can be a little inconsistent as it hinges very much on the quality of durians used. Having had this on our last visit, it was a little disappointing as the durian purée turned out to be a little chalky and stringy. Nevertheless, don’t let it deter you from ordering this wicked sweet – I am sure the outlet will strive to keep up its high standards to ensure this turns out right. And with the durian season in full swing, there’s no better time to sample this dessert.
The outlet has a seating capacity for 50 downstairs and 80 for upstairs including the al-fresco patio.
If your jaded palate needs spicing up, Montien is just the place to have a truly Thai dining experience.
MONTIEN (pork-free)
ONE BANGSAR
63E Jalan Ara
Bangsar
55900 Kuala Lumpur
Tel 22833116
Fax 22833226
Business hours 12 noon – 3 pm (last order 2.30 pm); 6.30 pm – 10.30 pm (last order 10 pm)
Owners, Sita Jayadeva and Vivian Chan are not kidding when their outlet boasts of a 'Truly Thai' tagline. With a treasure trove of Thai recipes inherited from Sita's mother, the two best pals since school days are determined that Montien will continue the legacy where the now defunct Café d’Chiangmai, a Thai restaurant owned by Sita's mother in Penang for the past 28 years left off.
Now a trained chef in her own right, Sita Jayadeva acquired her passion for food and cooking skills from her mother. Together with Chan, they conceived everything for Montien from scratch with stunning results.
Firstly, its interior furnishings are significantly different from other Thai restaurants with nary a wooden sculpture nor carving in sight. Befitting its Thai name of heavenly palace, Montien is modern and chic with predominantly dark wood and frosted glass accents in stark, clean lines. Walls are done up in warm hues whilst Thai silk throw cushions add soft bursts of colours throughout.
The outlet has been garnering rave reviews since its opening. Already many customers are fast becoming their regulars who return to dine with family and friends twice or thrice weekly, and helping to spread the word.
So what is so different about its food? Since most of the recipes are culled from Sita’s personal collection, diners can expect some delicious surprises. Having dined there on two occasions, I dare say Montien’s specialties left a most favourable impression.
The fish skin ‘kerabu’ or salad known as Yam Narng Pla Krob (RM20++) is a tantalizing starter with pieces of deep-fried red snapper skin tossed in a refreshingly tart and mildly salty salad of sliced tomatoes, red chilli, onion and coriander.
Moving on to its signature dishes, you must try its mouth-watering ‘Nahm Prik’ concoctions - tasty Thai relishes eaten with fresh vegetables.
The Nahm Prik Long Rea (RM14++) is a thick dipping concoction made with minced chicken, dried prawns and salted egg. Served with a platter of raw long beans, sliced cucumber and cabbage, fried brinjal, steamed okra and crisp-fried flaked catfish, the flavourful dip proved to be so irresistible that even my dining partner who usually shun veggies, ate this healthy platter without any complaint!
I can hardly wait to return and savour the others – Nahm Prik Kapi (spicy shrimp paste relish), Nahm Prik Pla Tu (mortar-pounded frigate mackerel relish), Nahm Prik Ma Krea Yau (brinjal and egg relish) and Nahm Prik Kung Kaew Khai Tom (glass prawns and boiled egg relish).
Special mention also must be made of the Montien Platter (RM20++) that entices you with a great combination of Thai ‘money bags’ (a daintier version of Chinese wontons), prawn cakes, stuffed beancurd with minced prawns and chicken, steamed sago balls filled with minced chicken served with fresh chilli and lettuce.
Another ‘must try’ is Khanom Jeen or Thai Laksa. Rice noodles are accompanied by fresh vegetables such as beansprouts, long beans, shredded cabbage and cucumber, salted vegetables and a lime wedge in a rich fish (RM18++) or prawn (RM22++) curry. It was a splendid combination of flavours and textures, with the smooth rice noodles acting as the perfect foil for the aromatic and creamy curry with the raw, crunchy vegetables tempering the gravy’s richness. Personally I found this scrumptious Thai laksa as good, if not better than the one that I had tasted in Bangkok last year.
If you are partial to curries, the Chu Chi Kung (RM30++), prawns cooked in a special Thai curry paste and Massaman – Thai Muslim curry (RM25++) will certainly whet your appetite.
The large, fresh prawns came split in halves, generously covered with thick, fiery red gravy. Redolent with exotic Thai spices and shredded kaffir lime leaves, the sublime prawn curry tasted out of this world. Not overly spicy but enough to leave your tastebuds tingling.
Just when we thought nothing could outshine this rich, indulgent delicacy, along came the Massaman lamb curry (RM25++). This delicious Southern Thai Muslim curry originated as far back as the 16th century. It is hard not to be enthralled with this superb dish of tender cubes of lamb and potatoes prepared with fragrant Thai spices, sliced onions and crisp-fried sliced shallots. We found that the Thai cardamoms in the gravy – they look like chickpeas but are smaller in size – imbued the curry with a delicate citrusy-peppery aroma and taste.
Set lunch priced at RM25++ per person is now available to cater to the office crowd who wish to enjoy a quick, sumptuous lunch. The menu changes weekly and will comprise two starters, rice with a curry, dessert and a cup of jasmine tea. The first lunch menu, for example, will incorporate Hor Mok (a smooth mixture of fish, curry paste and coconut milk steamed in banana leaf cups), Thai mango salad with minced salted egg and dried shrimps, green chicken curry with white rice and caramelized tapioca with coconut cream.
“It also serves as a good introduction to our specialties for those who have yet to try us,” said Vivian.
Dessert runs the gamut of the usual Tham Thim Grob (waterchestnuts and sliced jackfruit in fragrant coconut milk RM7++) to the less commonly found Ma Muang Nahm Pla Wan (crunchy green mango sliced and served with special Nahm Pla Wan dip RM10++). We sampled the Man Chiem (RM7++), a delightful Thai dessert of steamed tapioca topped with coconut cream and sesame seeds, and Khao Niaw Thurian (RM12++).
The former came up to expectations – we also had this on our previous visit and it was just as good. Now if you are die-hard lover of the King of Fruits, then the latter is an absolute ‘must have’. The glutinous rice was warm and had a lovely chewy texture. Generously topped with sinfully sweet and creamy durian purée and smooth coconut cream, it was just heavenly! Our only worry is this dessert can be a little inconsistent as it hinges very much on the quality of durians used. Having had this on our last visit, it was a little disappointing as the durian purée turned out to be a little chalky and stringy. Nevertheless, don’t let it deter you from ordering this wicked sweet – I am sure the outlet will strive to keep up its high standards to ensure this turns out right. And with the durian season in full swing, there’s no better time to sample this dessert.
The outlet has a seating capacity for 50 downstairs and 80 for upstairs including the al-fresco patio.
If your jaded palate needs spicing up, Montien is just the place to have a truly Thai dining experience.
MONTIEN (pork-free)
ONE BANGSAR
63E Jalan Ara
Bangsar
55900 Kuala Lumpur
Tel 22833116
Fax 22833226
Business hours 12 noon – 3 pm (last order 2.30 pm); 6.30 pm – 10.30 pm (last order 10 pm)
Friday, June 17, 2005
NO BALLS PLEASE!
Melaka is under sieged - this time by hordes of tourists! It's amazing how bus and car loads of them swarmed this tiny state famed for its rich historical past and super-hyped up Peranakan and Portuguese food.
Despite numerous visits to Melaka in the past, we have never had the chance to sample its famous chicken rice balls - a novelty and really major draw for any visitors to this part of the world. I kid you not!
So we were determined on that very weekend that we would get our hands on some, by hook or by crook. Maybe it was the unbearable scorching afternoon heat, the endless stream of holiday makers or maybe it was just plain complacency...I knew we were suckered into the hype of these so-called famed chicken rice balls the minute we sat down and were very much welcomed with some really bad attitude from the lady server.
While the foursome ahead of us were kind enough to vacate their table for us (we had our cranky seven year old girl in tow) rather speedily, one of the workers who helped to clear the table gave us a taste of the ugly Malaysian inhospitality.
Her unsmiling face and surly manner were quite enough to curdle your blood - obviously she reckoned we were undeserving of some simple, basic courtesy despite being paying customers. When we placed our order for half a chicken and four portions of rice balls, she haughtily told us off that she was most certain it would be insufficient for us three adults and a kid, and rudely warned us that should we even dream of asking for additional orders of the chicken and rice balls, then we had better be prepared to wait!
I was shocked and irked by her rudeness but I stood my ground and told her firmly that we were satisfied with our decision, thank you very much.
As it turned out, the meal was really nothing much to shout about. We just could not figured out what was all the fuss about ... ok the free-range chicken tasted so-so. It was not spectacular - the meat was lean and tasted all right with soya sauce and fragrant sesame oil but that was about it.
The novelty of seeing the chicken rice done up in smooth ping-pong balls (only these were slightly larger) soon wore off and we were not induced to eat more of it. Seriously, it was quite tasteless and greasy which made the experience of eating this specialty a non-event. Children being children, my kid ate up most of her portion thanks to the fact that they were rice balls and not the usual heap of steaming rice one would get else where.
I had to lace mine with lots of chilli sauce - at least the condiment was above average - it was a perky concoction of vinegar, ground chillies, garlic and shallot.
Let's just say the next time we return to Melaka, we won't be hankering for chicken rice balls that's for sure. Ah, but happily our visit did end on a happy note. After feasting on the superb local durians at this small, makeshift stall along the old road leading to Alor Gajah, the King of Fruits presented us with a completely different experience altogether...looks like we will consider returning to this little state after all.
Despite numerous visits to Melaka in the past, we have never had the chance to sample its famous chicken rice balls - a novelty and really major draw for any visitors to this part of the world. I kid you not!
So we were determined on that very weekend that we would get our hands on some, by hook or by crook. Maybe it was the unbearable scorching afternoon heat, the endless stream of holiday makers or maybe it was just plain complacency...I knew we were suckered into the hype of these so-called famed chicken rice balls the minute we sat down and were very much welcomed with some really bad attitude from the lady server.
While the foursome ahead of us were kind enough to vacate their table for us (we had our cranky seven year old girl in tow) rather speedily, one of the workers who helped to clear the table gave us a taste of the ugly Malaysian inhospitality.
Her unsmiling face and surly manner were quite enough to curdle your blood - obviously she reckoned we were undeserving of some simple, basic courtesy despite being paying customers. When we placed our order for half a chicken and four portions of rice balls, she haughtily told us off that she was most certain it would be insufficient for us three adults and a kid, and rudely warned us that should we even dream of asking for additional orders of the chicken and rice balls, then we had better be prepared to wait!
I was shocked and irked by her rudeness but I stood my ground and told her firmly that we were satisfied with our decision, thank you very much.
As it turned out, the meal was really nothing much to shout about. We just could not figured out what was all the fuss about ... ok the free-range chicken tasted so-so. It was not spectacular - the meat was lean and tasted all right with soya sauce and fragrant sesame oil but that was about it.
The novelty of seeing the chicken rice done up in smooth ping-pong balls (only these were slightly larger) soon wore off and we were not induced to eat more of it. Seriously, it was quite tasteless and greasy which made the experience of eating this specialty a non-event. Children being children, my kid ate up most of her portion thanks to the fact that they were rice balls and not the usual heap of steaming rice one would get else where.
I had to lace mine with lots of chilli sauce - at least the condiment was above average - it was a perky concoction of vinegar, ground chillies, garlic and shallot.
Let's just say the next time we return to Melaka, we won't be hankering for chicken rice balls that's for sure. Ah, but happily our visit did end on a happy note. After feasting on the superb local durians at this small, makeshift stall along the old road leading to Alor Gajah, the King of Fruits presented us with a completely different experience altogether...looks like we will consider returning to this little state after all.
Thursday, June 09, 2005
FATHER OF ALL FEASTS
Now that mothers have had their share of loving tributes for the year, this time around it'd be Dad's turn.
OK besides the pre-requisite Father's Day cards and ho-hum pressies, it is almost sacrilegious if you don't take the man out for a good chow-down. After all, a man's heart is through his stomach no?
In KL, one can eat well regardless of price but hey, are you gonna stinge on Dad? Besides posh hotels, stand-alone eateries are now getting into the act of whipping up extra-special scrumptious delights just for that day. Trendy eatery, Bon Bon Brasserie in Bangsar is one of them.
Chef Dhillon Ng's ‘home-style’ French-European dishes comprise mainly meat items matched by strong, robust flavours are supposed to reflect Dad’s masculinity. Of course, seafood and poultry dishes are included for fathers who prefer these.
I suspect most Dads will enjoy the amuse bouche (literally translated, it means amusement for the mouth - French-style appetizer in short). Although you won't get an inkling of what it will be come Father’s Day, ours was a dainty slice of seared tuna with grated pickled ‘daikon’ (radish) and pesto on toast. Needless to say it served an exquisite prelude for the other specialties to come.
Out of the seven starters that will be available, we sampled two – seared scallops on kataifi nest with dill shallot vinaigrette and sautéed field mushrooms with Saint Maure goat cheese and garlic jus.
Personally I don't know anyone who can resist plump, fresh scallops. These were just nicely cooked so they were sweet and succulent on the palate whilst the kataifi (finely shredded dough popularly used in Middle Eastern and Greek desserts) and topping of baby sprouts provided different textural contrasts. Mmm...
The dill shallot vinaigrette perked things up a little but it was the finely chopped kelp pickles and sesame seeds that struck a memorable affinity with the scallop trio.
Despite the slightly burnt phyllo casing, we were all for the sautéed ‘chanterelle’, trumpet and button mushrooms. The baked starter turned out to be a heavenly match between the mushrooms’ rustic, earthy flavours and the mildly salty, robust and nutty nuances of the Saint Maure goat cheese. A drizzle of aromatic garlic jus added that final flourish to this delectable creation. Again we were impressed by the clever combination of different textures – how well the light, spongy texture of the mushrooms offset the crispy phyllo pastry and soft, melty goat cheese.
Anyway I discovered that Saint Maure is considered one of the best goat cheeses in French cuisine. This gourmet delight is easily recognisable by its small log shape and thin, smooth rind with blue-grey moulding. It also has a long straw traversing the middle for holding together this soft cheese and to ensure easier handling.
Other enticing choices include consommé of beef with ravioli of oxtail and foie gras, salmon gravlax with pickled fennel, pearl onion and extra virgin olive oil, seafood bisque, terrine of foie gras with port and spices and homemade brioche and Bon Bon’s best-selling duck rilette in phyllo with crisp fennel and spiced honey.
Of the seven main courses, we can vouch for the pan-roasted fillet of beef. Nicely seared on the outside, the tender beef fillet remained pink and juicy inside. Accompaniments for this are vegetable caponata (a Sicilian relish of eggplant, onions, tomatoes, anchovies, olives, pine nuts, capers and vinegar cooked in olive oil) and tapenade jus (a Provençale paste made from capers, anchovies, ripe olives, olive oil, lemon juice and seasonings).
Equally good was the seared emperor snapper with mushroom risotto and crisp chorizo. This imported fish from Australia is highly regarded for its sublime texture and clean, clear flavour. We thoroughly enjoyed the snapper’s firm, sweet flesh paired with the creamy risotto (an Italian delicacy of cooked short-grain rice) richly imbued with the beguiling aroma and slices of mushrooms and fine strips of crisp chorizo (Spanish beef sausage).
The remaining mains comprise braised lamb shank with saffron, herbs, dried fruits (a mixture of dried pineapple, jackfruit, apricot and prune) and garlic mash, roast spring chicken with sautéed vegetables and truffle jus, roast beef polenta with haricot vert (green beans) and pommery mustard jus, seared duck breast with garlic mash, pea sprouts and orange marmalade jus and pan-seared cod with red miso, roma tomatoes and haricot vert.
Cap off your celebratory lunch or dinner with any of these six desserts – mini pavlova with strawberries in a passion fruit soup, mango mille feuille (rectangular French-style pastry consisting of thin layers of puff pastry sandwiched with cream and mango), lemon tart with chocolate mousse, classic vanilla crème brûlée, chocolate torte with espresso ice-cream and Valrhona chocolate mousse with Grand Marnier.
We had the crème brûlée (it means ‘burnt cream’ in French) which is top-notch. This classical treat with its superb custard-like texture and a caramelized sugar topping is not overly sweet and will appeal to light eaters.
The Valrhona chocolate mousse is more decadent as the ultra-smooth and rich chocolatey mousse is laced liberally with the renowned Grand Marnier orange liqueur.
With the flexible option of having two courses for RM58++ or a three-course meal for RM70++ per person, we reckon this special feast with Dad won't burn such a big hole in your pocket.
BON BON BRASSERIE (pork-free)
20 Jalan Telawi 2
Bangsar Baru
59100 Kuala Lumpur
Tel : (03) 2283 1100
OK besides the pre-requisite Father's Day cards and ho-hum pressies, it is almost sacrilegious if you don't take the man out for a good chow-down. After all, a man's heart is through his stomach no?
In KL, one can eat well regardless of price but hey, are you gonna stinge on Dad? Besides posh hotels, stand-alone eateries are now getting into the act of whipping up extra-special scrumptious delights just for that day. Trendy eatery, Bon Bon Brasserie in Bangsar is one of them.
Chef Dhillon Ng's ‘home-style’ French-European dishes comprise mainly meat items matched by strong, robust flavours are supposed to reflect Dad’s masculinity. Of course, seafood and poultry dishes are included for fathers who prefer these.
I suspect most Dads will enjoy the amuse bouche (literally translated, it means amusement for the mouth - French-style appetizer in short). Although you won't get an inkling of what it will be come Father’s Day, ours was a dainty slice of seared tuna with grated pickled ‘daikon’ (radish) and pesto on toast. Needless to say it served an exquisite prelude for the other specialties to come.
Out of the seven starters that will be available, we sampled two – seared scallops on kataifi nest with dill shallot vinaigrette and sautéed field mushrooms with Saint Maure goat cheese and garlic jus.
Personally I don't know anyone who can resist plump, fresh scallops. These were just nicely cooked so they were sweet and succulent on the palate whilst the kataifi (finely shredded dough popularly used in Middle Eastern and Greek desserts) and topping of baby sprouts provided different textural contrasts. Mmm...
The dill shallot vinaigrette perked things up a little but it was the finely chopped kelp pickles and sesame seeds that struck a memorable affinity with the scallop trio.
Despite the slightly burnt phyllo casing, we were all for the sautéed ‘chanterelle’, trumpet and button mushrooms. The baked starter turned out to be a heavenly match between the mushrooms’ rustic, earthy flavours and the mildly salty, robust and nutty nuances of the Saint Maure goat cheese. A drizzle of aromatic garlic jus added that final flourish to this delectable creation. Again we were impressed by the clever combination of different textures – how well the light, spongy texture of the mushrooms offset the crispy phyllo pastry and soft, melty goat cheese.
Anyway I discovered that Saint Maure is considered one of the best goat cheeses in French cuisine. This gourmet delight is easily recognisable by its small log shape and thin, smooth rind with blue-grey moulding. It also has a long straw traversing the middle for holding together this soft cheese and to ensure easier handling.
Other enticing choices include consommé of beef with ravioli of oxtail and foie gras, salmon gravlax with pickled fennel, pearl onion and extra virgin olive oil, seafood bisque, terrine of foie gras with port and spices and homemade brioche and Bon Bon’s best-selling duck rilette in phyllo with crisp fennel and spiced honey.
Of the seven main courses, we can vouch for the pan-roasted fillet of beef. Nicely seared on the outside, the tender beef fillet remained pink and juicy inside. Accompaniments for this are vegetable caponata (a Sicilian relish of eggplant, onions, tomatoes, anchovies, olives, pine nuts, capers and vinegar cooked in olive oil) and tapenade jus (a Provençale paste made from capers, anchovies, ripe olives, olive oil, lemon juice and seasonings).
Equally good was the seared emperor snapper with mushroom risotto and crisp chorizo. This imported fish from Australia is highly regarded for its sublime texture and clean, clear flavour. We thoroughly enjoyed the snapper’s firm, sweet flesh paired with the creamy risotto (an Italian delicacy of cooked short-grain rice) richly imbued with the beguiling aroma and slices of mushrooms and fine strips of crisp chorizo (Spanish beef sausage).
The remaining mains comprise braised lamb shank with saffron, herbs, dried fruits (a mixture of dried pineapple, jackfruit, apricot and prune) and garlic mash, roast spring chicken with sautéed vegetables and truffle jus, roast beef polenta with haricot vert (green beans) and pommery mustard jus, seared duck breast with garlic mash, pea sprouts and orange marmalade jus and pan-seared cod with red miso, roma tomatoes and haricot vert.
Cap off your celebratory lunch or dinner with any of these six desserts – mini pavlova with strawberries in a passion fruit soup, mango mille feuille (rectangular French-style pastry consisting of thin layers of puff pastry sandwiched with cream and mango), lemon tart with chocolate mousse, classic vanilla crème brûlée, chocolate torte with espresso ice-cream and Valrhona chocolate mousse with Grand Marnier.
We had the crème brûlée (it means ‘burnt cream’ in French) which is top-notch. This classical treat with its superb custard-like texture and a caramelized sugar topping is not overly sweet and will appeal to light eaters.
The Valrhona chocolate mousse is more decadent as the ultra-smooth and rich chocolatey mousse is laced liberally with the renowned Grand Marnier orange liqueur.
With the flexible option of having two courses for RM58++ or a three-course meal for RM70++ per person, we reckon this special feast with Dad won't burn such a big hole in your pocket.
BON BON BRASSERIE (pork-free)
20 Jalan Telawi 2
Bangsar Baru
59100 Kuala Lumpur
Tel : (03) 2283 1100
Wednesday, June 01, 2005
Tuesday, May 31, 2005
HOT ROCK AFFAIR
Although it isn't my first encounter with hot stone cooking, our recent experience of dining on fresh, live tiger prawns and 'soon hock' (marbled goby) cooked a la minute was immensely enjoyable.
The novel and uncommon method of using stones that are specially sourced from Japan (they look remarkably like the ones you'd find in sauna rooms) is now being promoted at the Cheng Ho Court restaurant, Mines Beach Resort.
You can be assured that this table-side cooking presentation using a large bowl of hot stones will garner much curiosity from other tables once fellow diners witness the billowing clouds of steam and sizzling sounds emanating from it.
Firstly, a large stainless steel pot filled with several grey rocks that have been pre-heated up in the kitchen was brought to our table. A flat steamer tray was placed over the hot stones for the tiger prawns (RM10 nett per 100 gm) to be laid on top. Water was subsequently poured into the pot of hot stones, resulting in billowing clouds of steam that cooked the prawns really quickly, within just 2-3 minutes.
One can't help but inhale the enticing aroma exuded from the pot as the 'drunken' prawns were earlier marinated with some Chinese wine. It was certainly an acid test that ensured the inherent freshness of the seafood used as anything less than that would result in a powdery texture.
According to Leong, the restaurant team tried using other varieties of seafood for the hot stone cooking but only the tiger prawns and 'soon hock' can withstand this quick steaming method.
As expected, the prawns turned out to be very sweet and springy to the bite. Imbued with a pleasing, understated Chinese wine flavour, they tasted out of this world without the need for any other condiment. But they are just as exquisite when dipped into a special sauce concocted by Chef Chin Hock Seng. The palate-pleasing sauce, which has minced garlic, bird’s eye chilli, Thai sauce and some herbs in it, managed to perk up the natural flavour of the prawns without overpowering them.
The ‘soon hock’ (RM17 nett per 100 gm) was prepared a little differently as the fish has been deboned and came topped with ‘enoki’ mushrooms, sliced 'seng kwa' (ridged gourd) and ‘kei chi’ (Chinese wolfberries) before the dish was steamed in the pot of hot stones. The end result was a superbly cooked fish with just the right amount of doneness and its natural juices firmly intact.
I found myself imbibing every single drop of the nutritious, wholesome soup of double-boiled black chicken with bamboo pith, black mushroom, Chinese wolfberries, dried Chinese mustard, a whole dried scallop and ‘yok chok’ (a type of Chinese herb). Priced at RM23++ per bowl, this signature specialty of Cheng Ho Court is definitely worth every single sen.
Another popular item here is the ‘lat chee kwai fei kai’ or loosely translated as spicy imperial chicken. The dish actually comprises steamed chicken with pickled carrots and spring onion (RM26++ for half, RM52++ for whole chicken). Living up to its majestic name, the boneless, bite-size pieces of chicken with its nice yellow skin turned out to be surprisingly lean but fabulously scrumptious. What made this stood apart from other run-of-the-mill chicken dish was the ingenious pairing of pickled carrots and florets of fresh spring onion in it. The pickles’ mild sourness, the spring onion’s sharp flavour and the light, accompanying soya sauce lent a tantalising nuance to the succulent chicken and added a little contrast with their crisp, crunchy textures.
We also had a vegetarian dish of deep-fried ‘enoki’ or golden needle mushrooms with pine nuts and a sublime sauce. It was a most delicate dish in which the deep-fried mushrooms’ crispy ‘tempura’-like batter was aptly matched by the rich, nutty taste of pine nuts and bound together by the sweet-sour nuances of the accompanying sauce that was a concoction of hot bean sauce, vinegar and sugar.
Dinner concluded with some delightful dessert as the restaurant is famed for its chilled durian pudding (RM5.50++), herbal jelly (RM4.50++) and Chinese pancake.
Digging deep into the smooth durian pudding, I was delighted to discover the mouth-watering, aromatic durian purée underneath! Even the Chinese pancake was one of the best I have eaten as the outer layer of pastry was light and flaky with very little trace of oil. The lotus paste filling deserved special mention as the real taste of lotus seeds was more evident on the palate as the amount of sugar used to prepare the paste has been cut down considerably.
Credit must be given to Chef Chin Hock Seng who heads the kitchen team of Cheng Ho Court. With more than 20 years of experience under his torque, Chef Chin admitted that he is quite conservative in his approach to the culinary arts and prefers to remain grounded in the tried and tested Chinese cooking techniques.
“I read a lot to obtain new ideas. Sometimes brainstorming and discussing ideas with colleagues, fellow chefs and customers help tremendously,” he said.
Since Cheng Ho Court is a pork-free restaurant, Chef Chin admitted it was a challenge to ensure the taste of his Chinese dishes is not compromised. For example, he spent many more hours and expanded much effort in churning out a good superior chicken stock that acts as a base for many of his dishes. He also stressed that no monosodium glutamate (MSG) is used at all in the food preparation at Cheng Ho Court as the hotel owner will not permit it.
The 148-seat restaurant has two private dining rooms available and is renowned for its daily ‘dim sum’ for lunch.
CHENG HO COURT (pork-free)
MINES BEACH RESORT & SPA
Jalan Dulang
MINES Resort City
43300 Seri Kembangan
Selangor
Tel: 8943 6688
The novel and uncommon method of using stones that are specially sourced from Japan (they look remarkably like the ones you'd find in sauna rooms) is now being promoted at the Cheng Ho Court restaurant, Mines Beach Resort.
You can be assured that this table-side cooking presentation using a large bowl of hot stones will garner much curiosity from other tables once fellow diners witness the billowing clouds of steam and sizzling sounds emanating from it.
Firstly, a large stainless steel pot filled with several grey rocks that have been pre-heated up in the kitchen was brought to our table. A flat steamer tray was placed over the hot stones for the tiger prawns (RM10 nett per 100 gm) to be laid on top. Water was subsequently poured into the pot of hot stones, resulting in billowing clouds of steam that cooked the prawns really quickly, within just 2-3 minutes.
One can't help but inhale the enticing aroma exuded from the pot as the 'drunken' prawns were earlier marinated with some Chinese wine. It was certainly an acid test that ensured the inherent freshness of the seafood used as anything less than that would result in a powdery texture.
According to Leong, the restaurant team tried using other varieties of seafood for the hot stone cooking but only the tiger prawns and 'soon hock' can withstand this quick steaming method.
As expected, the prawns turned out to be very sweet and springy to the bite. Imbued with a pleasing, understated Chinese wine flavour, they tasted out of this world without the need for any other condiment. But they are just as exquisite when dipped into a special sauce concocted by Chef Chin Hock Seng. The palate-pleasing sauce, which has minced garlic, bird’s eye chilli, Thai sauce and some herbs in it, managed to perk up the natural flavour of the prawns without overpowering them.
The ‘soon hock’ (RM17 nett per 100 gm) was prepared a little differently as the fish has been deboned and came topped with ‘enoki’ mushrooms, sliced 'seng kwa' (ridged gourd) and ‘kei chi’ (Chinese wolfberries) before the dish was steamed in the pot of hot stones. The end result was a superbly cooked fish with just the right amount of doneness and its natural juices firmly intact.
I found myself imbibing every single drop of the nutritious, wholesome soup of double-boiled black chicken with bamboo pith, black mushroom, Chinese wolfberries, dried Chinese mustard, a whole dried scallop and ‘yok chok’ (a type of Chinese herb). Priced at RM23++ per bowl, this signature specialty of Cheng Ho Court is definitely worth every single sen.
Another popular item here is the ‘lat chee kwai fei kai’ or loosely translated as spicy imperial chicken. The dish actually comprises steamed chicken with pickled carrots and spring onion (RM26++ for half, RM52++ for whole chicken). Living up to its majestic name, the boneless, bite-size pieces of chicken with its nice yellow skin turned out to be surprisingly lean but fabulously scrumptious. What made this stood apart from other run-of-the-mill chicken dish was the ingenious pairing of pickled carrots and florets of fresh spring onion in it. The pickles’ mild sourness, the spring onion’s sharp flavour and the light, accompanying soya sauce lent a tantalising nuance to the succulent chicken and added a little contrast with their crisp, crunchy textures.
We also had a vegetarian dish of deep-fried ‘enoki’ or golden needle mushrooms with pine nuts and a sublime sauce. It was a most delicate dish in which the deep-fried mushrooms’ crispy ‘tempura’-like batter was aptly matched by the rich, nutty taste of pine nuts and bound together by the sweet-sour nuances of the accompanying sauce that was a concoction of hot bean sauce, vinegar and sugar.
Dinner concluded with some delightful dessert as the restaurant is famed for its chilled durian pudding (RM5.50++), herbal jelly (RM4.50++) and Chinese pancake.
Digging deep into the smooth durian pudding, I was delighted to discover the mouth-watering, aromatic durian purée underneath! Even the Chinese pancake was one of the best I have eaten as the outer layer of pastry was light and flaky with very little trace of oil. The lotus paste filling deserved special mention as the real taste of lotus seeds was more evident on the palate as the amount of sugar used to prepare the paste has been cut down considerably.
Credit must be given to Chef Chin Hock Seng who heads the kitchen team of Cheng Ho Court. With more than 20 years of experience under his torque, Chef Chin admitted that he is quite conservative in his approach to the culinary arts and prefers to remain grounded in the tried and tested Chinese cooking techniques.
“I read a lot to obtain new ideas. Sometimes brainstorming and discussing ideas with colleagues, fellow chefs and customers help tremendously,” he said.
Since Cheng Ho Court is a pork-free restaurant, Chef Chin admitted it was a challenge to ensure the taste of his Chinese dishes is not compromised. For example, he spent many more hours and expanded much effort in churning out a good superior chicken stock that acts as a base for many of his dishes. He also stressed that no monosodium glutamate (MSG) is used at all in the food preparation at Cheng Ho Court as the hotel owner will not permit it.
The 148-seat restaurant has two private dining rooms available and is renowned for its daily ‘dim sum’ for lunch.
CHENG HO COURT (pork-free)
MINES BEACH RESORT & SPA
Jalan Dulang
MINES Resort City
43300 Seri Kembangan
Selangor
Tel: 8943 6688
Wednesday, May 25, 2005
Tuesday, May 24, 2005
DUMPLINGS GALORE!
With ‘duanwu jie’ or rice dumplings festival just around corner, many Chinese housewives and enterprising food stall operators will be busy churning out delicious cone-shaped rice dumplings, wrapped in bamboo and lotus leaves to celebrate the occasion.
Since yours truly do not have the time nor inclination to make this traditional delicacy (I will make an attempt one of these days), I end up buying the 'choong' from my favourite shop in Bandar Sungai Long.
My personal favourites are the Nyonya ones that are slightly sweetish due to its finely minced pork and candied winter melon filling and the rice dumpling itself stained a lovely blue from the juice of 'pea flowers' or 'bunga telang' as it is known. Unfortunately, really good and tasty ones are hard to come by now. Our family used to purchase lots from a Mrs Wong whose stall in Petaling Jaya Old Town but even standards have dropped somewhat in recent years. I also recalled a scrumptious one presented to me by a good friend when she came to KL from Melaka. Alas, todate I have yet to savour any that has come close to eclipsing these two benchmarks.
When it comes to savoury rice dumplings, however, I find my 'Ah Kim' or maternal aunt's version simply unsurpassed. Until I discover Tasty Rice Dumplings in Bandar Sg Long that is.
Opened just three years ago in this fast-growing housing hub, Madam Elaine Chow's shop has drawn a regular stream of customers not only from the Klang Valley, but some as far as Singapore and Hong Kong just to purchase her delicious rice dumplings.
The Ipoh-born Hakka lady who now resides in Kuala Lumpur for the past 22 years, first learned the art of making ‘choong’ from her own mother. Her interest was further heightened after a short stint managing a ‘halal’ rice dumpling stall in a major hypermarket five years ago.
Being a stickler for details who demand impossibly high standards from her workers, Madam Chow admitted she is very particular about the dumplings' overall quality, whether it is the raw ingredients, the way the rice dumplings are filled ('the ingredients have to be centred exactly') or their final shape.
She insists on using only the freshest pork meat and ensures the supplier delivers it to her shop early in the day so that the meat can be prepared quickly for the filling before the quality and taste deteriorate. She balks at the very idea of using frozen meat as it will greatly affect the taste of the dumplings.
Other stringent requirments include the use of premium grade, pure glutinous rice and good quality salted egg yolks. Even the raffia string for tying the wrapped dumplings is specially selected not only for its food-safe standard and its ability to withstand the steaming process.
Her current selection of rice dumplings are fruits of her painstakingly experiments with different recipes where family and friends were roped in to sample her creations so that they could provide her with feedback. She even travelled to Penang, Taiwan and China to sample and learn how different kinds of rice dumplings tasted and what made them special.
Today, her patience and dedication are amply rewarded as many customers from near and far patronize her shop just to buy the ‘choongs’. Many became customers by sheer word of mouth recommendation. Her wide clientele include Malaysians who have migrated to far-flung countries such as the United States, United Kingdom, Netherlands and Australia as well as food lovers from Singapore, China and Hong Kong.
Her best-selling one is the Supreme Dumpling (RM4.20 each) that comes with extra generous filling of pork, chestnut, black mushroom and salted egg yolk.
Equally popular is the ‘kee chang’ or plain rice dumpling made with alkaline water (80 sen for plain, RM1.00 for one with red bean filling). The lovely yellow dumpling is superb with or without its red bean filling. Its texture is well-balanced, not too compact or too soft. They are absolutely yummy when eaten dipped in some sugar or spread with home-made ‘kaya’ (local egg jam).
The Chilli Shrimp Dumpling (RM3.00 each) is a hit amongst younger customers due to its unusual filling of dried prawn ‘sambal’. Let me assure you the 'sambal' is extremely delicate in its spiciness but succeeds in infusing the dumpling with an enticing flavour.
Another superb version to look out for is the Spicy Salted Dumpling (RM3.00 each). It comprises glutinous rice that has been fried beforehand with soya sauce and then ‘spiced up’ with five-spice powder. There is no salted egg yolk in it but has a filling of dried prawns and black mushrooms instead.
The pale Cantonese Dumpling (RM3.50 each) epitomizes the ‘ching’ (clear) flavour that is so predominant in Cantonese cuisine. With a delicious filling of mung beans, black mushroom, pork and salted egg yolk, this dumpling is possibly the most distinctive of all the eight varieties sold here.
The remaining varieties are the vegetarian rice dumpling (RM2.50 each) filled with mock meat, mung beans and black mushrooms., another savoury dumpling with black eye peas, pork, black mushrooms and salted egg yolk, spicy salted dumpling (RM3.50) that has dried prawns and five-spice powder in it, and a Penang Nyonya ‘chang’ (RM2.90).
Since no preservatives are added, Madam Chow advised us that it is best to either consume the rice dumplings as soon as possible or store them in the fridge. “They can last for a week if kept properly chilled. If you intend to freeze it, then they can keep for about a month.”
She anticipates the demand to increase as the Dumplings Festival draws nearer. However, Madam Chow told us she has no plans to add any novel or fancy fillings to her existing dumplings selection due to skilled labour constraints and the need to ensure quality is maintained.
Sounds like the lady has her rice dumplings business all wrapped up and only early bird customers will get a tasty sampling of it.
TASTY RICE DUMPLINGS (non-halal)
28 Jalan SL1/2 Bandar Sungai Long
Jalan Cheras Batu 11
43000 Selangor
T: 9076 6130
Since yours truly do not have the time nor inclination to make this traditional delicacy (I will make an attempt one of these days), I end up buying the 'choong' from my favourite shop in Bandar Sungai Long.
My personal favourites are the Nyonya ones that are slightly sweetish due to its finely minced pork and candied winter melon filling and the rice dumpling itself stained a lovely blue from the juice of 'pea flowers' or 'bunga telang' as it is known. Unfortunately, really good and tasty ones are hard to come by now. Our family used to purchase lots from a Mrs Wong whose stall in Petaling Jaya Old Town but even standards have dropped somewhat in recent years. I also recalled a scrumptious one presented to me by a good friend when she came to KL from Melaka. Alas, todate I have yet to savour any that has come close to eclipsing these two benchmarks.
When it comes to savoury rice dumplings, however, I find my 'Ah Kim' or maternal aunt's version simply unsurpassed. Until I discover Tasty Rice Dumplings in Bandar Sg Long that is.
Opened just three years ago in this fast-growing housing hub, Madam Elaine Chow's shop has drawn a regular stream of customers not only from the Klang Valley, but some as far as Singapore and Hong Kong just to purchase her delicious rice dumplings.
The Ipoh-born Hakka lady who now resides in Kuala Lumpur for the past 22 years, first learned the art of making ‘choong’ from her own mother. Her interest was further heightened after a short stint managing a ‘halal’ rice dumpling stall in a major hypermarket five years ago.
Being a stickler for details who demand impossibly high standards from her workers, Madam Chow admitted she is very particular about the dumplings' overall quality, whether it is the raw ingredients, the way the rice dumplings are filled ('the ingredients have to be centred exactly') or their final shape.
She insists on using only the freshest pork meat and ensures the supplier delivers it to her shop early in the day so that the meat can be prepared quickly for the filling before the quality and taste deteriorate. She balks at the very idea of using frozen meat as it will greatly affect the taste of the dumplings.
Other stringent requirments include the use of premium grade, pure glutinous rice and good quality salted egg yolks. Even the raffia string for tying the wrapped dumplings is specially selected not only for its food-safe standard and its ability to withstand the steaming process.
Her current selection of rice dumplings are fruits of her painstakingly experiments with different recipes where family and friends were roped in to sample her creations so that they could provide her with feedback. She even travelled to Penang, Taiwan and China to sample and learn how different kinds of rice dumplings tasted and what made them special.
Today, her patience and dedication are amply rewarded as many customers from near and far patronize her shop just to buy the ‘choongs’. Many became customers by sheer word of mouth recommendation. Her wide clientele include Malaysians who have migrated to far-flung countries such as the United States, United Kingdom, Netherlands and Australia as well as food lovers from Singapore, China and Hong Kong.
Her best-selling one is the Supreme Dumpling (RM4.20 each) that comes with extra generous filling of pork, chestnut, black mushroom and salted egg yolk.
Equally popular is the ‘kee chang’ or plain rice dumpling made with alkaline water (80 sen for plain, RM1.00 for one with red bean filling). The lovely yellow dumpling is superb with or without its red bean filling. Its texture is well-balanced, not too compact or too soft. They are absolutely yummy when eaten dipped in some sugar or spread with home-made ‘kaya’ (local egg jam).
The Chilli Shrimp Dumpling (RM3.00 each) is a hit amongst younger customers due to its unusual filling of dried prawn ‘sambal’. Let me assure you the 'sambal' is extremely delicate in its spiciness but succeeds in infusing the dumpling with an enticing flavour.
Another superb version to look out for is the Spicy Salted Dumpling (RM3.00 each). It comprises glutinous rice that has been fried beforehand with soya sauce and then ‘spiced up’ with five-spice powder. There is no salted egg yolk in it but has a filling of dried prawns and black mushrooms instead.
The pale Cantonese Dumpling (RM3.50 each) epitomizes the ‘ching’ (clear) flavour that is so predominant in Cantonese cuisine. With a delicious filling of mung beans, black mushroom, pork and salted egg yolk, this dumpling is possibly the most distinctive of all the eight varieties sold here.
The remaining varieties are the vegetarian rice dumpling (RM2.50 each) filled with mock meat, mung beans and black mushrooms., another savoury dumpling with black eye peas, pork, black mushrooms and salted egg yolk, spicy salted dumpling (RM3.50) that has dried prawns and five-spice powder in it, and a Penang Nyonya ‘chang’ (RM2.90).
Since no preservatives are added, Madam Chow advised us that it is best to either consume the rice dumplings as soon as possible or store them in the fridge. “They can last for a week if kept properly chilled. If you intend to freeze it, then they can keep for about a month.”
She anticipates the demand to increase as the Dumplings Festival draws nearer. However, Madam Chow told us she has no plans to add any novel or fancy fillings to her existing dumplings selection due to skilled labour constraints and the need to ensure quality is maintained.
Sounds like the lady has her rice dumplings business all wrapped up and only early bird customers will get a tasty sampling of it.
TASTY RICE DUMPLINGS (non-halal)
28 Jalan SL1/2 Bandar Sungai Long
Jalan Cheras Batu 11
43000 Selangor
T: 9076 6130
Wednesday, May 18, 2005
FANTASTIC FOOCHOW FOOD
We had a chance to sample some typical Foochow dishes in Sitiawan, a small town in the state of Perak. A renowned Foochow stronghold, Sitiawan's own claim to fame includes being the birthplace of the infamous head of the Communist Party in Malaya, Chin Peng and a former Malaysian Minister of Transport. Kampung Koh, another village near Sitiawan is known for its spicy, garlicky chilli sauce.
Many of the residents here are descendents from the Foochows of Kutien, one of the 10 sub-districts in Foochow, China. Since the 10th century, Foochow or Fuzhou was the capital of the Fujian province and one of the greatest tea ports in the world. It subsequently became a treaty port following the Opium War (1839–1842).
These hardy, down-to-earth people thrives on hearty, home-style dishes that are substantial in portions, big on taste but not on presentation.
Thick, starchy soups and stews feature prominently with as many as five or six soups served in a typical Foochow banquet.
For some truly authentic Foochow food, check out Restoran Sun Hong Siong, an unassuming family-run eatery right in the heart of Ayer Tawar town in Perak.
Our meal began with a deliciously smooth and slightly starchy broth of minced beancurd, crab meat, minced pork and chopped cabbage, interspersed with threads of beaten egg and sesame oil. It reminded us of a good, politically correct ‘shark’s fin’ soup!
Next came a dish of sweet and sour fish. Using a type of local fish known as ‘teik soh’ (due to my own poor grasp of Hokkien, I was unable to fathom the English name but this long, tubular fish is preferred for its firm, white flesh that does not have too many bones in it), it was sliced and deep-fried before being doused with a piquant sweet and sour sauce. Fiery red in colour, the sweet and sour nuances of this distinctive sauce bore hints of Worchestershire sauce, garlic and ground chillies. Also included in the dish was some sliced potatoes.
The pork rolls here are good enough to rival the best Penang ‘loh bak’ (pork rolls). Tasty enough to be eaten on its own, the rolls comprise lots of minced pork and liver, lightly seasoned and then wrap in a light web of pig’s caul. Coated in a light batter, the sliced pork rolls are crispy and utterly delectable eaten with some pickled cucumber.
Known colloquially as ‘big dish fry’, the plate of ‘chap chye’ (mixed vegetables) comprised cauliflower stir-fried with slivers of dried squid, shrimps, baby corn, black fungus, glass noodles, carrot, mushroom, beancurd sticks, Chinese cabbage, minced pork and whole pips of garlic.
The second soup that we had stood out in complete contrast from the earlier one. Redolent with strips of fish maw, black fungus, beaten egg, minced meat and ginger in it, the soup tantalized our tastebuds with a zesty intermingling of sour, spicy and sweet flavours.
Personally, I like the fragrant oil chicken with sliced onions, potatoes, ‘choy sum’ (Chinese mustard leaves), pickled cucumber and chillies as well as the ubiquitous Foochow fishballs. Superbly bouncy and sweet with generous minced pork filling, the Foochow fishballs came in a clear soup with lots of sea kelp and beaten egg.
Dinner concluded with ‘lor mee’ or thick, fat yellow noodles braised in yet another thick, eggy broth. For those who are Hokkiens, this specialty is comfort food at its best and will definitely go down well.
Dining at Sun Hong Siong is quite an experience in itself as you can see the cooks at work, frying and dishing up their customers’ orders speedily from the giant woks. The shop building itself is still a simple wooden structure with cement floor, facing the main road. Throughout the evening we were there, the restaurant drew a steady stream of customers that kept all its tables occupied.
The food portions are big and substantial. Dishes are roughly priced between RM10 and RM20 each depending on what you order and the portion size. In the mornings, you can also have ‘dim sum’ such as steamed ‘pau’ (soft buns) and ‘siew mai’ (pork dumplings) for breakfast.
So if you wish to sample some truly authentic Foochow food minus the frills, then this is just the place to go to.
RESTORAN SUN HONG SIONG (non-halal)
Jalan Besar
Ayer Tawar
Perak Darul Ridzuan
Tel: 05 6726544
Many of the residents here are descendents from the Foochows of Kutien, one of the 10 sub-districts in Foochow, China. Since the 10th century, Foochow or Fuzhou was the capital of the Fujian province and one of the greatest tea ports in the world. It subsequently became a treaty port following the Opium War (1839–1842).
These hardy, down-to-earth people thrives on hearty, home-style dishes that are substantial in portions, big on taste but not on presentation.
Thick, starchy soups and stews feature prominently with as many as five or six soups served in a typical Foochow banquet.
For some truly authentic Foochow food, check out Restoran Sun Hong Siong, an unassuming family-run eatery right in the heart of Ayer Tawar town in Perak.
Our meal began with a deliciously smooth and slightly starchy broth of minced beancurd, crab meat, minced pork and chopped cabbage, interspersed with threads of beaten egg and sesame oil. It reminded us of a good, politically correct ‘shark’s fin’ soup!
Next came a dish of sweet and sour fish. Using a type of local fish known as ‘teik soh’ (due to my own poor grasp of Hokkien, I was unable to fathom the English name but this long, tubular fish is preferred for its firm, white flesh that does not have too many bones in it), it was sliced and deep-fried before being doused with a piquant sweet and sour sauce. Fiery red in colour, the sweet and sour nuances of this distinctive sauce bore hints of Worchestershire sauce, garlic and ground chillies. Also included in the dish was some sliced potatoes.
The pork rolls here are good enough to rival the best Penang ‘loh bak’ (pork rolls). Tasty enough to be eaten on its own, the rolls comprise lots of minced pork and liver, lightly seasoned and then wrap in a light web of pig’s caul. Coated in a light batter, the sliced pork rolls are crispy and utterly delectable eaten with some pickled cucumber.
Known colloquially as ‘big dish fry’, the plate of ‘chap chye’ (mixed vegetables) comprised cauliflower stir-fried with slivers of dried squid, shrimps, baby corn, black fungus, glass noodles, carrot, mushroom, beancurd sticks, Chinese cabbage, minced pork and whole pips of garlic.
The second soup that we had stood out in complete contrast from the earlier one. Redolent with strips of fish maw, black fungus, beaten egg, minced meat and ginger in it, the soup tantalized our tastebuds with a zesty intermingling of sour, spicy and sweet flavours.
Personally, I like the fragrant oil chicken with sliced onions, potatoes, ‘choy sum’ (Chinese mustard leaves), pickled cucumber and chillies as well as the ubiquitous Foochow fishballs. Superbly bouncy and sweet with generous minced pork filling, the Foochow fishballs came in a clear soup with lots of sea kelp and beaten egg.
Dinner concluded with ‘lor mee’ or thick, fat yellow noodles braised in yet another thick, eggy broth. For those who are Hokkiens, this specialty is comfort food at its best and will definitely go down well.
Dining at Sun Hong Siong is quite an experience in itself as you can see the cooks at work, frying and dishing up their customers’ orders speedily from the giant woks. The shop building itself is still a simple wooden structure with cement floor, facing the main road. Throughout the evening we were there, the restaurant drew a steady stream of customers that kept all its tables occupied.
The food portions are big and substantial. Dishes are roughly priced between RM10 and RM20 each depending on what you order and the portion size. In the mornings, you can also have ‘dim sum’ such as steamed ‘pau’ (soft buns) and ‘siew mai’ (pork dumplings) for breakfast.
So if you wish to sample some truly authentic Foochow food minus the frills, then this is just the place to go to.
RESTORAN SUN HONG SIONG (non-halal)
Jalan Besar
Ayer Tawar
Perak Darul Ridzuan
Tel: 05 6726544
Friday, May 06, 2005
PRIME FOCUS ON RETRO CLASSICS
Humans are creatures of habit. Despite our constant yearning for anything that’s new and exciting, we will eventually return to the tried and tested, and find great comfort in the things that are familiar and known to us.
How many times have we hanker for those dishes that stood the test of time and remind us of good times shared with family and friends, and of special occasions in our lives?So that is mainly the reason why classical favourites like steaks and oysters reign supreme at the Prime Grill Room at the Crown Princess Kuala Lumpur.
The restaurant exudes a stylish décor with lots of brown timber paneling, plush leather seats in dark chocolate and earth-toned carpet. Sleek, dark mahogany tables and lush green plants are offset with modern artworks in vibrant hues and peach lampshades. It’s the perfect blend of old world colonial style and restrained modernity.What I really like about this outlet is that diners are permitted to smoke only at the bar and lounge area but not in the main dining area. According to the management, they reckon second-smoke does affect the taste of the food served, besides imposing on the comfort of non-smoking diners.
If you are one of those who like a tipple before dinner, the wine selection is competitively priced for a hotel outlet with prices hovering close to retail pricing, starting at RM52++ onwards. The current list is predominantly Australian and touts many boutique wines including the house specialty, Turkey Flat Grenache Noir 2001, Barossa (RM89++ per bottle). In addition, you’d find a small number of Chilean, French and New Zealand wines plus one or two from Spain and South Africa.
So how's the food? Not too bad - out of ten, I'd say it garners a 6.5 rating. Chef Allan Parish of the Grace Hotel in Sydney (whose former master was the celebrated Ozzie chef, Neil Perry), was tasked with training the local team here.
A great appetiser to get you going is the salad of ‘harissa’ spiced prawns (RM42+) with baby tomatoes, pickled gherkins, shredded red cabbage and romaine lettuce. The exotic ‘harrisa’, a Tunisian condiment of red chilli peppers and salt covered in olive oil lent a splendid dimension to the crustaceans’ natural flavour, and added a tantalizing accent to the salad.
But I daresay the classic smoked salmon rose on blinis with mustard dill dressing (RM28++) is hard to eclipse while the salad of baby beans, tomato confit and salsa verde (RM18++) is surprisingly good. The crunchiness of the baby French beans is greatly enhanced by the refreshing tartness of ‘salsa verde’, a chunky, zesty sauce made from ‘tomatillos’ (Mexican husk tomato), green chilli and cilantro.
Equally good is the chilli spiced calamari with avocado and mango salsa (RM28++) for its varying textures and differing flavours. Too bad the fresh oysters were not as freshly shucked as they should have been (RM54++ per half dozen). If you fancy the molluscs cooked, then opt for oyster Mornay (RM56++), oyster Kilpatrick (RM58++) and oyster Rockefeller (RM58++).
For comfort food at its best, nothing beats the cream of shiitake, oyster and button mushroom (RM26++) and the Boston clam chowder (RM16++). The former is creamy and redolent with the beguiling taste and aroma of mushroom whilst the latter is richly satisfying with the delicious taste of fresh clams evident on the palate.
The outlet signature dish of char-grilled beef tenderloin with harisa prawns and caramelized shallots (RM68++) is excellent. Its ‘melt in the mouth’ texture is well-complemented by some caramelized shallots.Another memorable main course is the duck breast cooked with apples and potatoes (RM42++), a rustic French dish that oozes homely, earthy flavours. There was a thin layer of fat underneath the duck skin, ensuring adequate juiciness to the sliced breast meat. Its rich, gamey taste was nicely assuaged by the fruitiness of the cooked apple dices whilst the potato dices were the perfect foil for the robustness of the entire ensemble.
Personally I find the crisp skinned salmon with peppered green beans, warm potato salad and aioli (RM49++) not particularly outstanding as the overall combination turned out too heavy and rich on the palate.
The retro overtones extend to dessert that includes crêpes suzette (RM18++), crème brûlée (RM16++), gratinated fruits with vanilla gratin (RM16++), nougat parfait with chocolate and orange sauce (RM16++), and dark chocolate and white chocolate mousse (RM18++).Be forewarned that the crème brûlée is a huge portion and can be a little daunting should you have had the appetizers and mains earlier. Still, its silky smoothness is imbued with a lovely vanilla taste and fragrance.
Prefer something lighter? Stick with gratinated fruits - strawberries, kiwi and mango are covered with vanilla sauce and a light dusting of icing sugar, then lightly browned in the broiler or oven. Served with a scoop of vanilla ice-cream, this confection is a befitting conclusion to the meal.
How many times have we hanker for those dishes that stood the test of time and remind us of good times shared with family and friends, and of special occasions in our lives?So that is mainly the reason why classical favourites like steaks and oysters reign supreme at the Prime Grill Room at the Crown Princess Kuala Lumpur.
The restaurant exudes a stylish décor with lots of brown timber paneling, plush leather seats in dark chocolate and earth-toned carpet. Sleek, dark mahogany tables and lush green plants are offset with modern artworks in vibrant hues and peach lampshades. It’s the perfect blend of old world colonial style and restrained modernity.What I really like about this outlet is that diners are permitted to smoke only at the bar and lounge area but not in the main dining area. According to the management, they reckon second-smoke does affect the taste of the food served, besides imposing on the comfort of non-smoking diners.
If you are one of those who like a tipple before dinner, the wine selection is competitively priced for a hotel outlet with prices hovering close to retail pricing, starting at RM52++ onwards. The current list is predominantly Australian and touts many boutique wines including the house specialty, Turkey Flat Grenache Noir 2001, Barossa (RM89++ per bottle). In addition, you’d find a small number of Chilean, French and New Zealand wines plus one or two from Spain and South Africa.
So how's the food? Not too bad - out of ten, I'd say it garners a 6.5 rating. Chef Allan Parish of the Grace Hotel in Sydney (whose former master was the celebrated Ozzie chef, Neil Perry), was tasked with training the local team here.
A great appetiser to get you going is the salad of ‘harissa’ spiced prawns (RM42+) with baby tomatoes, pickled gherkins, shredded red cabbage and romaine lettuce. The exotic ‘harrisa’, a Tunisian condiment of red chilli peppers and salt covered in olive oil lent a splendid dimension to the crustaceans’ natural flavour, and added a tantalizing accent to the salad.
But I daresay the classic smoked salmon rose on blinis with mustard dill dressing (RM28++) is hard to eclipse while the salad of baby beans, tomato confit and salsa verde (RM18++) is surprisingly good. The crunchiness of the baby French beans is greatly enhanced by the refreshing tartness of ‘salsa verde’, a chunky, zesty sauce made from ‘tomatillos’ (Mexican husk tomato), green chilli and cilantro.
Equally good is the chilli spiced calamari with avocado and mango salsa (RM28++) for its varying textures and differing flavours. Too bad the fresh oysters were not as freshly shucked as they should have been (RM54++ per half dozen). If you fancy the molluscs cooked, then opt for oyster Mornay (RM56++), oyster Kilpatrick (RM58++) and oyster Rockefeller (RM58++).
For comfort food at its best, nothing beats the cream of shiitake, oyster and button mushroom (RM26++) and the Boston clam chowder (RM16++). The former is creamy and redolent with the beguiling taste and aroma of mushroom whilst the latter is richly satisfying with the delicious taste of fresh clams evident on the palate.
The outlet signature dish of char-grilled beef tenderloin with harisa prawns and caramelized shallots (RM68++) is excellent. Its ‘melt in the mouth’ texture is well-complemented by some caramelized shallots.Another memorable main course is the duck breast cooked with apples and potatoes (RM42++), a rustic French dish that oozes homely, earthy flavours. There was a thin layer of fat underneath the duck skin, ensuring adequate juiciness to the sliced breast meat. Its rich, gamey taste was nicely assuaged by the fruitiness of the cooked apple dices whilst the potato dices were the perfect foil for the robustness of the entire ensemble.
Personally I find the crisp skinned salmon with peppered green beans, warm potato salad and aioli (RM49++) not particularly outstanding as the overall combination turned out too heavy and rich on the palate.
The retro overtones extend to dessert that includes crêpes suzette (RM18++), crème brûlée (RM16++), gratinated fruits with vanilla gratin (RM16++), nougat parfait with chocolate and orange sauce (RM16++), and dark chocolate and white chocolate mousse (RM18++).Be forewarned that the crème brûlée is a huge portion and can be a little daunting should you have had the appetizers and mains earlier. Still, its silky smoothness is imbued with a lovely vanilla taste and fragrance.
Prefer something lighter? Stick with gratinated fruits - strawberries, kiwi and mango are covered with vanilla sauce and a light dusting of icing sugar, then lightly browned in the broiler or oven. Served with a scoop of vanilla ice-cream, this confection is a befitting conclusion to the meal.
JOM MAKAN!
Selamat Datang! That's 'Welcome' in Malay - to all food lovers out there, join me as I embark on my culinary adventures.
'Jom Makan' essentially means 'Let's Eat!' in Malay. I have yet to come across anyone who can refuse such an opportunity to enjoy the amazing variety of food life has to offer. Indeed, I daresay eating is probably one of - if not - the biggest and most popular passion amongst Malaysians.
Whether it's sidestreet hawker's fare or the poshest fine-dining restaurants, you can be assured of an entertaining, honest-to-goodness, tell it like it is account of what I have eaten. So what are you waiting for? Jom Makan!
'Jom Makan' essentially means 'Let's Eat!' in Malay. I have yet to come across anyone who can refuse such an opportunity to enjoy the amazing variety of food life has to offer. Indeed, I daresay eating is probably one of - if not - the biggest and most popular passion amongst Malaysians.
Whether it's sidestreet hawker's fare or the poshest fine-dining restaurants, you can be assured of an entertaining, honest-to-goodness, tell it like it is account of what I have eaten. So what are you waiting for? Jom Makan!
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