PERANAKAN PALATE-PLEASERS AT SERI NYONYA

No visit to the historical state of Melaka is complete without a typical Nyonya meal. Hence it is only befitting that a 5-star international business class hotel like Hotel Equatorial Melaka has its very own Peranakan restaurant inhouse.

Known as Seri Nyonya, local and foreign visitors can enjoy delicious homely Straits Chinese specialities in charmingly rustic surroundings. The façade resembles the ornate entrance of a Peranakan home; the interior dominated by earthy wood and tile accents within the spacious dining area.

Framed sepia-toned photographs, floral batik table runners and traditional cooking implements serve as adornments; creating a homely setting for the Peranakan dining experience that awaits.

An unusual drink that's perfect for our tropical weather is Lychee Asam Boi (RM7 per glass). Its sweet-salty taste from the mixture of preserved salted plums with tinned lychee fruits should set your tastebuds tingling but it's a fab thirst-quencher.

Communal dining is the norm here so it’s best to order several dishes to share. A nourishing curtain-raiser to warm things up is Hee Peow Soup (RM15.80-small, RM24.80-medium, RM38.80-large) – spongy fish blubber in clear broth with housemade fish balls.

According to chef Rubayah Md Zin, the Malay version of Otak Otak (RM5.50) – steamed spiced fish mousse topped with some coconut cream in banana leaf parcels tends to be spicier than the Portuguese inspired ones. The complex spice blend (including lemongrass, turmeric and galangal) that goes into the making of the custard-soft creation studded with chunky sweet fish meat is lush and tantalising; teasing the tastebuds with bright, slightly herbaceous nuances with the use of daun kadok or wild pepper leaf as well as turmeric leaf.

Traditionalists would enjoy the hearty flavours of Ayam Pongteh (RM15.80-S, RM21.80-M, RM41.80-L) – chicken cooked with taucheo (fermented soybean paste), garlic, shallots, potatoes and shiitake mushroom. Lightly sweetened with a tinge of Melaka’s famous gula Melaka (palm sugar), the resultant dish boasts a unique savoury-sweet gravy that begs to be drenched over plain white rice. Add some sambal belacan for a hot match made in heaven. 

"In the old days, pongteh is a customary dish for important occasions and festivals especially in wealthy Peranakan households," says Chef Rubayah.

Ikan Goreng Chilli Garam (RM24.50-S, RM34.30-M, RM49-L) is a familiar and much cherished way of preparing hardtail fish in our household when I was growing up. Relishing the delectable dish again certainly took me down memory lane. The only difference is chef’s take features sauteed pounded fresh and dried chilli with a squeeze of fresh lime juice to lend it that sparkling citrusy finish.

Malay influences are noticeable in the sublime Udang Lemak Nenas (RM25.80-S, RM38.80-M, RM54.80-L). Chef emphasises that ripe Sarawak pineapple is preferred for the dish as its nectar sweetness bestow distinct characteristic to the sunny yellow curry. Dried tamarind pieces are added for tartness, to balance the overall taste profile. The inherent sweetness of crustaceans also cannot be discounted.

Briny dimension of the Nyonya meal is drawn from Telur Dadar Cincaluk (RM9.80-S, RM14.80-M, RM20.80-L). The simple but irresistibly yummy omelette is enlivened with cincaluk – Melaka’s pungent condiment of brined pink krill that could be an acquired taste. You either love it or hate it, no two ways about it.

Another down home offering is Nyonya Chap Chai (RM12.80-S, RM20.80-M, RM28.80-L) which comprises chopped cabbage, sliced carrot, glass noodles and mushroom cooked with sweet bean paste. It reminds me of Chinese New Year as this dish is a festive staple at home.

Bring sweet closure to your meal with Nyonya Cendol (RM6 per bowl). The most popular belief stated in Wikipedia is that the dessert got its name from the Javanese word jendol which means bump or bulge - supposedly in reference to the plump, short noodle-like strands that's made from cooked mung bean flour stained jade-green with pandan juice. Served with diluted coconut milk, liquid palm sugar and shaved ice, it's a mildly rich treat that has firmly gained its own multi-racial following.

For those who are interested, special cooking classes for guests to experience what goes into the preparation of Melaka’s Peranakan Cuisine is available daily at Seri Nyonya until 28 February. Priced at RM115 nett per person, the 1st Session is from 1o am – 12 noon and the 2nd Session: 2 pm – 4 pm. Attendees will learn about exotic local ingredients, cooking techniques as well as the history behind the Peranakan dishes, with some recipes handed down from generations.

HEM also has a Nyonya Culinary and Historical Journey priced at RM150 nett per person which includes :

• A personalised Nyonya cuisine recipe book
• A hands-on culinary journey you assisted by HEM Chefs
• A relaxing and leisurely trishaw ride to the historical Baba Nyonya Museum 

For information and enquiries, please call Hotel Equatorial Melaka - tel: 06-282 8333. 

FESTIVE FLAVOURS OF PROSPERITY RULE AT XIN CUISINE

Classic festive favourites rule the CNY menus this year at Xin Cuisine. Sticklers for traditions would be pleased with the wide selection of flavourful 'prosperity' dishes available in different guises: from set and a la carte menus to special dim sum creations that use ingredients with auspicious meanings.

We fervently wished for excess abundance during the boisterous tossing of the colourful Salmon Yee Sang. Drenched with tangy plum sauce, the customary treat was as sublime as always; the hodge-podge of vegetable julienne, pickles and crispy bits well-balanced in flavours and textures.
 

Besides Norwegian salmon, you can savour jellyfish, sliced abalone or shredded duck yee sang. Featured in the set menus and a la carte, the Yee Sang is priced at RM68++ to RM198++ (depending on portion size).

The chefs pulled out all stops and served a handpicked variety of specialities to give us an overview of the delectable goodies that await diners throughout the CNY period. One of them is Mini Buddha Jumps Over The Wall - a clear double boiled seafood broth that was heartwarming in its delicate simplicity. A whole baby abalone, bamboo pith, sea cucumber and dried scallop lent their inherent sweetness to the soupy equation.

One of the most anticipated central mains in the festive line-up is whole Roasted Suckling Piglet. Simply the bee's knees for die-hard carnivores, the crackling slivers should go down a real treat. 

For the uninitiated, Xin's BBQ Roast Selection: roast duck, char siew and roast pork in addition to the signature appetiser of sliced poached pork are equally notable. These meats are available a la carte throughout the year so we always have our fill whenever we lunch or dine there.

The Teochew-style Steamed Dragon Garoupa is an indisputable staple that no Chinese family would turn their noses up at. You can rely on the Xin team to get the doneness right (touch wood). We love the tangy sauce from the pickled mustard (hum choi) and tomato;  livened up with shredded scallion and complemented by soft beancurd pieces.

Although the Baby Cabbage with Crab Meat doesn't make for a pretty picture, the taste is up to scratch. Again understatedly "ching" accent prevails with both the vege and crabmeat-mushroom sauce flaunting muted sweet notes.

IMHO, Xin serves arguably one of the best Waxed Meat Rice in the CNY dining circuit. The rice came slightly smoky from the layer of scorched crust at the bottom of the claypot while the fluffy grains glean their mouthwatering aroma from the milieu of sliced waxed sausages, briny waxed duck and waxed meat adorning the top layer. Price: RM40++ to RM98++ per portion depending on serving size ordered.

Bringing the curtains down are Nian Gao (RM9.80++ each) prepared in various tempting ways. Subtly sweet on the palate, we relished every bite of the sweet potato and baked peanut variants. Other creative permutations include macadamia nuts and pine seeds with osmanthus.

Chilled Jackfruit Puree with Sago Pearls & Red Kidney Beans rounded off our preview -it's the dessert of choice that appears in this year's festive set menus which range between RM1,188++ and RM1,588++ per table of 10 persons.

For reservations at Xin Cuisine, please call: 03 2144 8750. Address: Lobby Level, Concorde Hotel Kuala Lumpur, 2 Jalan Sultan Ismail, Kuala Lumpur.

NOTE: Xin Cuisine is closed on the first day of Chinese New Year and will reopen
on the second day (Feb 20), 9.00 am.

Norwegian salmon, jellyfish, sliced abalones and even shredded duck meat. Yee sang is included in all the set menus but it can also be ordered a la carte at the following prices:
RM68++ to RM98++ (regular portion)
RM98++ to RM198++ (large portion)
- See more at: http://pureglutton.com/savour-flavours-prosperity-xin-concorde-kuala-lumpur#sthash.xhamOM4b.dpuf