TOP PICKS FROM TOPSHELF

Out of the slew of new a la carte offerings rustled up by Topshelf's youthful chef cum owner Christopher Yee, I'd be tempted to return for that crisp-skinned Orange Quail (RM27). 

Nestled on a bed of fried shredded leek accompanied by bacon hash topped with a shivery poached egg, it's that kind of soul-satisfying dish that leaves you in a happy, weak-kneed stupour. We love the quail's inherent gaminess (a bare whisper on the palate) and that runny egg yolk that amplifies the sublime flavour of the to-die-for bacon hash.

The heavy evening downpour that heralded our recent visit to this mod French-Italian bistro in TTDI was made bearable by a comforting Prawn Bisque (RM16). A tot of brandy and a dollop of creme fraiche added extra allure to the orange-hued broth with its heartwarming crustacean sweetness. Even this non-soup fan was tempted to paraphrase Oliver Twist's plaintive cry of "please sir, may I have some more?" had I not been distracted by the next exquisite dish of diver scallop.

Now, the uninitiated may quibble at paying such a hefty price for Hand Dived Scallop (RM30) but honestly, this delicate shellfish costs more because it's hand collected by divers who care about the sea and sustainable fish/seafood stock; an eco-friendly practice that's kinder to the environment just like line-fishing.

Lightly pan-fried to caramelise its edges, the plump scallop barely needs embellishment save for some delicate threads of braised leek and miso eggplant in white wine that blend marvellously with its pristine sweetness.

Seared to medium doneness, the juicy and tender Roasted Rack of Lamb (RM55) is another splendid speciality that should spur repeat visits. Complemented by chargrilled broccoli salad, potato puree and jus, you'd pick the bones clean off this subtly smoky and meaty rack.

Boost your green quota with Apricot & Nut Salad (RM25), a crowd-pleasing assortment of healthy lettuce and rocket, sliced cucumber and cherry tomatoes with apricot dices, parmesan shavings and nut vinaigrette.

Homely French comfort food such as Duck Cassoulet (RM38), Pot-Au-Feu (RM43), Iberico Loin (RM56) and Baked Snapper (RM40) also rule the roost in the latest menu.

According to Larousse Gastronomique, cassoulet originates from Languedoc but its recipe varies from region to region. There is even a decree in 1966 which stipulated that a cassoulet should comprise 30% pork (which can include sausage), mutton or preserved goose; 70% haricot beans and stock, fresh pork rinds, herbs and flavourings.

Chef Christopher's Duck Cassoulet warms the cockles of your heart with a whole seared duck leg confit augmenting the deep-seated flavours emanating from the chunky stew of cannellini beans, cubed potato, sliced sausage, bacon and tomato.

Provencal veggies and white while bouillon form a rustic base that captures the natural sweetness and soft flaky texture of the Baked Red Snapper. This simple preparation should reel in fish lovers who prefer their catch served in its entirety, complete with head and bones intact.

If you prefer to avoid dealing with bones, we recommend the Iberico pork loin. Roasted and served with pureed potato and sauteed veggies with some mushroom, the tender, juicy meat is a breeze to savour.

Pot-au-feu is a meal in itself for most French; a tasty classic winter warmer with a melange of textures and flavours due to the inclusion of various meat cuts, veges (carrot, turnips,  onion, leeks and celery are the norm) and aromatic herbs. The serving we sampled packed a noticeably beefy accent with a lingering savoury aftertaste.

Four types of pasta are listed in the menu, to satisfy die-hard carb lovers who can't bear to go without. Despite its minimalist approach, the Pesto Capellini (RM30) is a notable choice with the delicate pasta strands scented with truffle oil and fetchingly graced with Topshelf's house concocted pesto and a shower of parmesan shavings.

Dessert saw us foraying into Christopher's 'chocolate factory' where devilishly decadent treats like Chocolate Fondant (RM21) and Chocolate & Coffee Cremeux (RM19) held us spellbound. I'm partial to the melt-in-the-mouth goodness of the former - an impossibly airy-light yet lushly smooth creation using Valrhona 70% accompanied by chocolate 'soil' and vanilla ice cream.

Olive oil, maldon sea salt and berry compote lend distinct finesse to the chef's Chocolate & Coffee Cremeux, helping the 70% noir dark chocolate cream to coat the palate and leave a long-lasting impression of Topshelf's treasure trove of culinary gems.

For reservations at TOPSHELF, call tel: 03-7727 7277. Address: 61, Lorong Rahim Kajai 13, Taman Tun Dr. Ismail, Kuala Lumpur

FOR THE LOVE OF PORK AT EPICURO

Half a year has disappeared in a blink of an eye...but good times like good food often stay cherished in our memory despite the passage of time. It tickles me when this year, a bunch of us even celebrated Valentine's Day together, feasting over a slap-up V-Day dinner thanks to PureGlutton and Epicuro.

A casual, cheery outpost known for porky-licious offerings rustled up by engineer-turned-chef Yugin, our dining party was treated to Epicuro's special celebratory creations as well as its popular mainstays. 

Chef Yugin proves he can reel in compliments for fish and other meat dishes as he does with pork. The speciality of Spinach encrusted Seabass with Spiced Mango Salad (RM36.90) was a fine example - the boneless seabass smothered in blended spinach was delicate but cleverly perked up by the side of zingy cucumber-mango salad.

Red-blooded guys and thoroughly modern gals won't hesitate to declare their love for his delectable dish of Australian Grain-fed Ribeye (RM59.90). Meltingly tender with just enough toothsome resistance, the meat is substantial enough to leave one replete.

Heartier appetites will find ample comfort in Epicuro's famed Pork Chop (RM28.90) with Mushroom Cream Sauce - two slabs of juicy, brined pork cutlets doused in earthy, rich and fungi-flecked gravy.

I'm not big on Spaghetti Carbonara (RM18.90) but Epicuro's version is possibly one of the best I've had. Put it down to the al dente pasta, slicked with just enough mascarpone sauce to amplify the smoky brininess of real bacon bits. Break the yolk of the wobbly poached egg on top and voila! a sublime masterpiece is born.

We also had Vanilla Creme Brulee with Mixed Berries (RM13.90) to sweeten the evening's lovely mood. Custard-soft with the perfume of scorched caramel on the nose, its ethereal sweetness was fleeting but discernible on the palate.

Admittedly, it was no contest against the signature Tiramisu - a luscious dessert every Epicuro regular raves about, especially its heady 'pick me up' boozy accent.

There's also soft spongy Waffles with scoops of rich chocolate ice cream - a perennial delight that will easily win you over with its straightforward simplicity.

When it comes to decently priced Western food minus the frills, Epicuro fits the bill.

For reservations at EPICURO, call 03-77333110. The restaurant is located at 20 Jalan SS 21/35, Damansara Utama, Petaling Jaya, Selangor.

COMFORTING CHOICES AT HAWK & FISH

One doesn't go to a resto just for its kick-ass sambal but Hawk&Fish may just draw chilli fiends there for that reason. It's a casual eatery that strives to be one up from your local chap farn (economical rice) set-up - the resto's clean, air-cond and the local fare pricing is just a few ringgit more of what you'd pay at kopitiams.

 

We love the pub grub fare on the menu - they're perfect for Happy Hours when you can graze without overdoing it. The mod industrial concrete finishing and exposed ceiling sets the stage for wire-structured chairs and round glass tables coupled with some wooden dining furniture.

The first culinary chart-topper that bowled us over is The Pound Pork Balls (RM18, 3 pcs) - wickedly delish, oversized hand-made and fried minced pork balls with melted, stretchy mozzarella oozing out of them.

Wrapped in thin chive omelette and streaky bacon, you'd go barking mad over the Dogs In A Blanket...and Quilt (RM25) - devilishly scrumptious, chunky pieces of thick sausage enrobed in fluffy omelette AND crispy bacon strips. Trust me, the smoky-brininess and mellow oniony-sweetness meld so beautifully together, it's hard not to wax lyrical over it.

An assertive zingy hotness ensures the house speciality of Spicy Wings (RM20, 6 pcs) fly high with diners; a commendable Asian take on the Western classic of Buffalo wings.

Good wok hei breaths lively charred accent into the Char Kway Teow (RM15) here. The flat rice noodles take the fiery heat of the house sambal to heart, regaling one's palate with fiesty smoky hotness. Prawns, squid and beansprouts help to ramp up the deliciousness further. Diners can also opt to have the whole works  such as fried chicken wings (RM6) or a sunny-side up egg (RM2) thrown into the equation.

Fried rice fans would have much to cheer and chew on at this eatery. The Homespun Fried Rice (RM20) comes in three versions - spicy Pound special, Thai- or Chinese-style. Don't let its pared-down appearance fool you. Chilli fiends would find their tastebuds set alight by the unabashedly robust nuance especially for the hot ones; render to tongue-searing heights by the insanely hot house sambal. Besides chopped bacon bits (hurrah!), supporting cast for the rice dish includes fried chicken wings, a fried egg and more sambal.

Uncle Chee - a long-time TTDI resident and cook - does tour of duty for lunch with his range of chap farn staples. He's also instrumental for the presence of signature specialities such as Dry Style Bak Kut Teh (RM15), Ancestral Original BKT (RM15) and Herbal Wine Chicken (RM15) at Hawk&Fish.

Personally, I'd plump for wong jau gai (herbal wine chicken) any day. Mildly sweet with a warm boozy aftertaste, the chook with ginger, red dates and fresh coriander will give you a nice heady buzz. A comforting tummy warmer that should goes best with plain rice.

Admittedly, the hardcore Hokkien in me is ambivalent about the Dry Style BKT. Darkened by lashing of dark soya sauce and flavoured by local herbs and spices, the porky dish is agreeable. I guess I couldn't get pass that it looks more like tau eu bak - braised pork in dark soya sauce. But any urban singleton or small nuclear family who hankers for home-style offerings, this heirloom recipe of Uncle Chee's should satisfy familial food cravings.

Soup lovers would probably prefer Uncle Chee's Ancestral BKT as the milieu of pork, button mushroom, enoki, beancurd puffs and innards come bubbling hot in a claypot of herbal broth. Die-hard BKT fans may find the soup too mild for liking but as the owners tell us, it's good enough to assuage sudden BKT cravings especially when one can't run to Klang on a mere whim.

The only dish that didn't measure up during our visit was Fish & Chips (red snapper RM30, dory RM20). We found the fish fillet somewhat tough and leathery...it could have been a one-off hiccup so fans of this British classic should try this house speciality and judge for themselves.

Dessert is simple - you can try crisp Apple Pie that looks disconcertingly like those from a famous fast-food chain. 

Hawk&Fish is worth checking out - it's a viable alternative especially for lunch when you rather eschew fast-food or be hot and bothered eating at local kopitiams.

For reservations, call Hawk & Fish, hp no: 011-2627 6544 / tel: 03-7732 2328. The outlet is at 50 Jalan Tun Mohd Fuad 1, Taman Tun Dr Ismail, Kuala Lumpur. Business hours: Mon-Sat 11am-3pm; 6pm-11pm. Closed on Sunday.

NEW GRAND MENU DEBUTS AT IPPUDO

Ippudo Malaysia - the local chapter of Japan's renown ramen chain unveiled its new grand menu recently at Pavilion KL. Regional operations consultant Tomo Kudo (below pix) said the new items will give local diners a taste of modern Japan while staying true to founder Shigemi Kawahara's philosophy to innovate continuously.

Local media members turn out in force to sample the plethora of new items, ranging from starters and ramen to dessert. The servings came fast and furious, causing us to scramble and snap pixs at lightning speed. Luckily, the photogenic dishes made it a breeze enabling us to settle down and relish them.

 

It was love at first bite the minute we sampled the Dashimaki Egg Roll (RM9). Ethereally fluffy, the Japanese omelette roll dotted with mayo and spicy cod roe was a definitive crowd-pleaser; priming us up for other goodies to come.

Suffice to say, we weren't disappointed. The lustrously rich briny flavour of marinated pollock roe and cod roe spread luxuriantly on the palate as we bit into the lightly Seared Salmon Rolls with Mentaiko (RM19), transporting us to culinary heaven.

 

It was splendid when you chase it with sips of Ippudo's Matcha Smoothie (RM9.90) - the fresh, faintly astringent green tea helps to cut any cloying aftertaste that linger. Coupled with some red bean mash and cream, the drink is refreshing to the last drop.

 

Simpler but no less yummy is Spicy Boiled Gyoza (RM13). The dumplings are generously stuffed with minced pork. Some shredded leek, light soya sauce and hot chilli oil are the pared-down condiments that lift them to delightful gustatory heights.

Passion about pork? Ah, then you mustn't miss savouring the Pork Grill (RM16) - a slab of tender, juicy pork loin served on hot plate with beansprouts, sweet corn and teppan sauce. Slivers of fried garlic flakes lend it a coyly smoky-sweetness that should leave you smacking your lips with great satisfaction.

Trust me, the biggest surefire crowd-pleaser would be Teppan Garlic Rice with Chicken (RM20). I really can't foresee any young adult weaned on a diet of pizza, pasta and mod Japanese food refusing this mound of garlic-fried rice and diced chicken amidst a moat of eggy, cheesy and creamy sauce speckled with chopped capsicum and sweet corn kernels...

Also unveiled at the preview were two new ramen variants - Shoyu Ramen and Kakuni Ramen, joining Ippudo's quintessential noodle repertoire. The nice thing about Ippudo is you can dictate how hard or soft you like the noodles to be...most ramen shops usually overcook their noodles (based on my own experiences) so such attention to detail is highly laudable.

A special clear chicken broth and shoyu stock forms the base for Shoyu Ramen (RM24.90) - its delicate accent just the platform to showcase thin springy noodles complemented by sliced pork loin, bamboo shoots, seaweed, leeks and naturomaki (sliced fish paste roll with a pink swirl).

The Shiromaru Kakuni (pix above, RM27.90) is supremely hearty in which ramen and a thick slab of belly pork simmered in Ippudo's special soy sauce come immersed in the chain's trademark tonkotsu broth, garnished with  kikurage (shredded cloud ear fungus), spring onion and beansprouts. Other variants available are Karaka Kakuni (RM30.90). Akamaru Kakuni (RM29.90).

The special spicy miso, cashew & ground pork really bestows much character and complex flavour to the Karaka-Men (RM25.90). You can also enjoy it with additional salted soft-boiled egg as in Karaka Tamago (RM27.90) while the luxe Karaka Special (RM33.90) throws in sliced belly pork, seaweed and salted soft-boiled egg as well.

We also slurped up Shiromaru Motoaji (RM22.90) - a classic Hakata-style ramen. The ultra-thin noodles with Ippudo's tonkotsu broth are accompanied by pork loin slices, beansprouts, kikurage and spring onion.

Special blended miso paste and fragrant garlic oil infuse big, bold flavour dimensions to Akamaru Shinaji (RM24.90) - a refined, modern-style ramen that consists of thin noodles with pork belly slices, spring onion and kikurage.

Simplicity rules the evening's dessert offerings. Mochi fans would probably love Daifuku (RM9) as the sweet treat features vanilla ice-cream enrobed in a thin layer of silky, stretchy mochi skin, placed on a slice of lemon and served with a fresh strawberry.

Mild, subtly flavoured creamy cheese atop soft cookie base makes up our second dessert of Cheese Stick. Its light, almost whimsy sweetness is comparable to eating ice-cream crossed with marshmallow. What a befittingly lovely end to mark the launch of Ippudo's grand new menu. 

For reservations, call Ippudo Malaysia - Pavilion KL (Tel: 03 2110 6233), The Gardens Mall (Tel: 03 2201 6238) & Bangsar Shopping Centre (Tel: 03 2011 6238). More info & details available from: http://www.ippudo.com.my