GO THE WHOLE NINE YARDS AT BROLLY

Nine. That’s the magic number for Brolly’s experiential F&B concepts – all under one roof umbrella as in ‘brolly’. Geddit?

It’s another ‘giant’ step for TY Ooi and her biz partners who rocked the local F&B scene with Crab Factory in SS2. The multi-concept resto inside Menara Felda is a petrol head’s wet dream; a vintage garage of sorts with shiny tire rims adorning private dining room doors, an old car suspended upside down above the pool table and repurposed automobile parts: truck tires, petrol pumps, side and rear view car mirrors put to pragmatic uses as sinks, taps and vanity mirrors.

 

Bits and pieces of Americana e.g. licence plates, old vinyl records and a foosball table reminiscent of the Happy Days and Grease era evoke a decidedly rock & roll atmosphere to the set-up. But what about the food?

Pix courtesy of Brolly

Suffice to say, you’d better brace yourself to go the whole nine yards at Brolly. Even the heartiest appetites are known to wave the white flag after attempting to sample everything Brolly has to throw at them. The extensive menu is a compilation of TY’s fondest food memories that made up her travails as a restaurateur thus far. 

WANNA BE STARTERS SOMETHING

Moley's Oyster Bar is TY’s tribute to her own Aussie oyster odyssey where the diving enthusiast recalls plucking and shucking sea-fresh oysters to savour. Now she wants diners to replicate that experience with imported French  Fine de Claire No2 Oysters (RM144 for 1 dozen) and Irish Kelly's Gigas No4 Oysters (RM96 for 1 doz). Plump and meaty with deep-sea nuances, the molluscs are best enjoyed au naturel or with a squeeze of lemon juice.

SMOKE GETS IN YOUR EYES

Let’s face it, the only kind of smoke nobody minds getting into their eyes is the type arising from a good barbecue. At Brolly, the Aussie barbie meets the Asian ‘bakar’ at Ember & Bara. Get down and dirty with BBQ Small Yabbies (RM60 per kilo)…the lil’ critters yield faintly smoky chunks of sweet meat once you get the hang of shelling them.

Otherwise, beef, lamb, seafood and vege options are also available. Beefy choices include Chilled Sirloin (single portion with Old Fashioned BBQ Coffee Sauce, RM34),  Chilled Ribeye (single portion with Tarty Tropicana Sauce, RM60) and  Chilled Tenderloin (single portion with Old Fashioned BBQ Coffee Sauce, RM 70).

I’d vouch for the succulently tender Spring Chicken (single portion with  Classic Chamalla Sauce, RM45) with the Lamb Frenched Rack (single portion with Old Fashioned BBQ Spicy Chocolate, RM120) coming in a close second.

Local tastebuds would enjoy the grilled Meat Crabs with E&B Sambal Sauce (RM65) or chunky Tomato Tango Sauce. Alternatively, sample Prawns in Fragrant Tamarind Coconut Sauce (RM25) or Fish of the Day (RM50) perked up with E&B Sambal Sauce. 

 

Balance all that seafood with Grilled Watermelon & Pineapple Minty Salad (RM15), Grilled Caesar Salad (RM15) or Spinach & Feta Melon Salad (RM15).

DRINKING LA VIDA LOCA

 

At this point, you should order glasses of Beergarita (RM30) – a high spirited concoction of beer and margarita with housemade syrups to wash those nibbles down. Whipped up by Brolly’s resident mixologists at the Bang Bang Baller Bar house in a converted school bus, the drinks menu is as colourful and varied as the food menu. 

vari.EAT.y – THE SPICE OF LIFE

For gangs of friends and cliques of colleagues, snacks and finger food for sharing are aplenty. My personal fave includes Calamari Tentacles (RM18) and Prawn Popcorn (RM23) – addictive morsels that grow on you with each bite.

The impressive Onion Flower (RM18) is excellent too. Cut and deep-fried in crisp batter coating, the huge Aussie onion looks a flower in bloom with a delicate sweetness to boot.

 

Stick to your ribs Kushiyaki (3 skewers per serving) veers between the esoteric  

Chicken Softbone  (RM9) and Chicken Hearts (RM9) to more sedate Seafood Tofu (RM9), Spring Onions (RM9) and Quail Eggs (RM9).

 

 

Soup for the soul here comes in a hearty albeit mildly spiced Short Ribs Soup (RM35) while Cajun Escargots (RM24) or Garlic Escargots (RM24) bring some snob appeal to the overall repertoire.

HERE COME THE WINGS AGAIN

More tasty temptation take flight via My Wing Man. The bold, pungently flavoured Chicken Wings with Cencaluk (RM18) dominate in this instance, far eclipsing the tamer Chicken Wings with Tomato Tango (RM18).

IT’S RAINING MAINS

Of course, Brolly’s deluge of great eats also cover Crab Factory offerings and Louisiana-style classics such as Fried Prawns Po'Boy (RM22), Fried Softshell Crabs Po'Boy (RM22) and Pulled Beef Brisket Po'Boy (RM18). The crusty baguette, submarine sandwich (traditionally packed with a choice of fried seafood, chicken or roast beef) has been given the stamp of approval from guests who hailed from that Southern state in the US.

 

Expect to land a load of crabs in this section: the Brown Crab (RM19 per 100gm) weighing in at 1.3kg (RM247) is smothered in medium spicy Jamba Jamba Sauce; the uniquely

shaped Spanner Crab (RM19 per 100gm, 1.25kg - RM 237.50) in Garlic Butter Sauce and a 1.4kg Spanner Crab (RM266) in medium spicy Signature Southern Bang Sauce. Bag Buddies (RM19 per 100gm) to boost your intake may include Button Mushroom (RM8.90) and Garlic Bread (RM8.90).

BIG ON JAPAN

Rice fiends would love Raksaksa Mirai for Japanese karē raisu (curry rice). Viable and wallet-friendly as a quick, filling lunch, plump for Tori Garlic Mayo (RM23), fried breaded chicken with curry sauce and rice (RM2.50).

Other delectable variations served are Hotate (Scallop) Eryngii Omelette (RM24) with curry sauce and Garlic Shallot Rice (2.50), and  Salmon Katsu (RM25) in Coconut Curry Sauce.                       

NOVE9 TWEAKS       

Pizzas gain fresh pizzazz at Nove9 with inventive guises, resulting in the green (spinach) base Lambogarlic (RM26) and a delightful West meets East permutation of Thai Beef Guava Salad (RM28). Purists who prefer to keep it simple will enjoy the supremely cheesy Quattro Formaggi (RM28).

SWEETS FOR MY SWEET

When it comes to Sweet Endings, succumb to a wickedly indulgent portion of Chunky Peanut Butter Granola (RM16). Lighter but no less decadent is Creme Brulee (RM16). Should you decide to share, opt for Grilled Montel Banana Parcel (RM16) for ample satisfaction minus the calorific guilt.

For reservations, call BROLLY, tel: 03-2181-4122. Address: Ground Floor, Menara Felda Platinum Park, Persiaran KLCC, Kuala Lumpur

IN-VAL-UABLE NEW MENU AT SAMPLINGS ON THE FOURTEENTH

Chef De Cuisine Valmurugan Subramaniam is not one to rest on his laurels. The veteran chef decided to shake up and rework the menu for Samplings on the Fourteenth two months ago. Focusing on using the freshest ingredients available and marrying them with refined cooking techniques, Chef Val showed his prowess from the get-go during an exclusive media preview organised by Abel Nelson Nang, Berjaya Hotels & Resorts' perfect host for all occasions.

The opening act belonged to succulent poached sea scallops dotted with salmon caviar, some 25 years aged balsamic vinegar on a bed of chipotle tomato and spinach puree. Amply supported by a hearty yet rustic grilled Portobello mushroom salad, it left a ravishing impression.

Next came Caesar salad – the resto’s evergreen fave which is prep at table-side. Nobody can fault the jumble of fresh romaine lettuce, shards of parmesan and diced croutons after it was tossed with a creamy concoction of runny yolk, Worcestershire sauce and other seasoning.

 

We didn’t mind being in the soup after the lush cream of Jerusalem artichoke with boursin-garlic cheese hit our palate. Who knew the knobbly root veg could wield such gastronomic clout? Its delicate sweet nuttiness with a faintly astringent overtone was a perfect canvas for the French cheese’s bodacious brininess and pungency to shine.

For mains, each of us were asked to pick from salmon Napoleon or braised Australian wagyu beef cheek or roasted spring chicken. My choice of spring chicken rubbed with chermoula paste was enlivened with a marinade-like condiment whipped up using spices (cumin, cloves, paprika), herbs (flat leaf parsley, coriander), garlic, onion, olive oil and lemon juice. Served atop gratin potato and onion gravy, the moist, tender meat left me replete.

One of my dining companions waxed lyrical about the melt-in-the-mouth beef cheek served with blue cheese polenta and spring vegetable. She generously offered me a bite and I was floored by the big flavours emanating from that single mouthful.

The salmon fillet also garnered thumbs up. Layered with Portobello mushroom and spinach, the rich fish was complemented by green and red pepper coulis, angel hair pasta and spring vegetable.

By now most of us were almost fit to burst but there was still dessert to contend with. Pastry Chef John Wong outdid himself with the giandulotto terrine. We felt bad managing to scoff down only half of the wickedly decadent chocolate hazelnut mousse. Fresh summer berries, raspberry sauce and sesame tuille finished the luscious creation, leaving us on a sweet chocolatey high.

Of course, dinner with Abel and his A-team were never ho-hum or boring. From the minute we stepped into the venue to the time we left, media members were plied with good food, drinks and games to keep us amused. The opening gambit was a dish of creme brulee with our names written on it (see above pix).

Also music throughout the night was a compilation of songs selected by us invitees. Those celebrating their birthdays were also feted with personalised cakes (including each celebrant's fave flavour!).

For reservations at Samplings on the Fourteenth, call tel: 03-2117 8000 x 8131. Biz hours: Mon-Sat 6.30pm-10.30pm

DYNASTY DOES THE TWISTS

Meet Dynasty's show-stealer for Malaysia International Gourmet Festival (MIGF) 2015...this lil' piece of crispy suckling pig skin parked on white glutinous rice. The wondrous textural symphony etched itself on my mind as I polished off forkfuls of the smooth poached cod fillet whose fatty richness was aptly balanced by zesty pepper fondue.

A distinct yet complementary palette of contrasting flavours and textures, that main course was the chef’s take on ‘surf and turf’ with an Oriental slant; kinda like deconstructed sushi.

Pix courtesy of Renaissance KL Hotel

According to Executive Sous Chef Kok Chee Kin, it is the first time pork is featured in Dynasty’s MIGF menu after 14 years of participation in the event. Response has been positive among regulars and avid followers of the chef once they learn of the special menu priced at RM228 (food only) per person and RM278 (with wine pairing).

“The 4-course Festival Menu injects some Western and Japanese influences to give diners unexpected twists to familiar favourites,” said Chef Kok. His creative trio of dainty appetisers: Chilean scallop with garlic sauce, abalone salad with sesame and a shrimp bundle reflected that abovementioned approach right from the get-go. 

 

Presented on a big white plate in a curve, some delicate edible flowers were sprinkled intermittently to add colour. Personally, I found the sharp pungency of minced garlic overshadowed the scallop’s inherent sweetness a tad but it was not disagreeable.

Take your time to savour the toothsome chewiness of the marinated abalone, complemented by beansprouts, shredded cabbage and piquant Thai chilli sauce. The crispy bundle of prawn with sesame passed muster.

For the soup course, ham and steamed pumpkin formed the base for the lobster and blue ocean treasure with pumpkin essence. Laden with chunks of sweet lobster, diced sea cucumber, scallop and fish maw, few diners would diss this luxe broth.

Clear, uncomplicated nuances ruled the second main dish of silky tricolour noodles with crab meat & seafood. Muted pastel pink, yellow and cream hues of the mini udon, egg and hiso noodles respectively served as a delicate canvas to show off the seafood’s sweet ocean freshness. Chicken stock and Chinese wine were the other components which lent a surge of savoury tastiness to the overall dish.

Mindful of today’s health-conscious diners, Chef Kok has gone for a pared-down dessert of pandan layer cake with almond crisp, red pitaya ice cream and bird’s nest. Mini pickled apples and seasonal berries boost the dish’s appeal even further.

For reservations, call Dynasty, tel: 03-2716 9388. Address: Renaissance Kuala Lumpur Hotel, Corner of Jalan Sultan Ismail & Jalan Ampang, KL. Facebook/RenaissanceKL.