FIVE-BULOUS ANNIVERSARY TREATS AT MAKAN KITCHEN

Being neither a crab or porridge fan, I found myself going for seconds after my first bowl of Teochew Crab Porridge – one of the five-bulous dishes created by Amy Beh – one of Malaysia’s most seasoned self-taught chef – together with Executive Chef Eric Siew for Makan Kitchen, to mark DoubleTree by Hilton KL’s 5^th anniversary celebration.

 

Now, it was an astounding feat as porridge and soup rank as ‘sick’ food in my book i.e. stuff I’d eat when I’m sick as a dog. Hmm…perhaps it’s a sign I’m getting old (the truth sucks ;p) as I lapped up the tasty, comforting gruel swirling with savoury-spicy flavours mingled with the delicate crabby sweetness.

According to Chef Amy Beh, the idea came from her Teochew background - porridge being her father's fave dish combined with the sweetness of crabs (Penang her home state is known for its seafood). Instead of leaving it plain and clear, she decided to jazz up the crabs with piquant flavours from a mixture of preserved soya beans (taucheo), ground chilli and spices.

I’m more the Lamb-Kut-Teh kinda gal, thanks to the copious servings of ‘bak kut teh’ I had eaten as a child. Executive Chef Eric Siew proved his culinary wizardry by reinterpreting this much-treasured Malaysian dish (certain food TV channel's claim that BKT originates from a first world isle is pure hogwash). The broth - suitably herbaceous with warm woody nuances – was a match made in heaven with the superbly tender Aussie lamb ribs which bore the faintest hint of gaminess.

The dainty Ma Lai Koe or Steamed Sponge Cake were so darn good that the sweet-toothed me unashamedly devoured two pieces. It certainly was easier for me to scoff these babies down than it was for the chefs to come up with the seductive treat. Their secret boils down to the pure, high quality gula Melaka or palm sugar which they bought after a painstaking search. 

You can taste some of the deep-seated toffee-like sweetness from the crumbled gula Melaka atop the airy-light Chinese tea cup sized cakes. They look pretty a picture too! 

Time and effort are requisite when it comes to cooking Curry Kapitan Chicken and most resto versions tend to fail miserably once those elements aren't factored in. A beloved Nyonya staple which will tempt you into overloading on rice, it’s a feisty delicacy which sets the imagination ablaze, flaunting the chefs’ culinary prowess as much as the complex rempah (spice) mix used.

Coupled with the hearty Nyonya Fish Head Curry, this one feast is that will melt even the steeliest resolve of Atkins’ devotees. An irresistibly rich, robust and ‘lemak’ curry with chunks of fish head, okra and brinjal, you’d want to douse the gravy over mounds of plain rice to satisfy your appetite.

The five-bulous dishes will be served at diners’ table nightly, in addition to Makan Kitchen’s regular spread now until 31 October 2015. Price: RM125 per person.

The dynamic duo of Eric Siew and Amy Beh will headline the following special activities lined up for Doubletree’s 5^th Anniversary: 

Ocean-friendly Seafood Dinner, AUGUST 15@7pm

A Sustainable Seafood Fest in collaboration with World Wildlife Fund (WWF) RM180

Cooking Class Demo, SEPTEMBER 12@4-6pm

RM180 per person inclusive of Fabulous Five Dinner

Premium Nyonya Private Dining Hidang-style, SEPTEMBER 19@7pm

Special Nyonya menu served in private dining rooms at RM220 per person

LAGI SHIOK! with Five-bulous Durian

The hotel's 5th Anniversary continues with a thorny highlight taking centrestage at Makan Kitchen. Chef Eric Siew presents the King of Fruits aka the durian in different guises: Nasi Goreng Durian, Crispy Durian Fritter, Kek Lapis Durian, Durian Cheese Apam and Ayam Durian Skewer for every table of five diners at Makan Kitchen’s “Lagi Shiok!” with Five-buous Durian Weekend Hi-Tea (RM91 per person) from 1 August until 31 October. 

As unlikely as it sounds, the Nasi Goreng Durian works surprisingly well…at least for my tastebuds. I love how the patina of custardy sweetness amplified the fried rice’s scrumptious smoky-savouriness on the palate. Yummylicious!

Coming in a close second in the fave stakes is Durian Fritter – decadent durian flesh sheathed in feather-light, crisp and golden brown batter. An inspired creation drawn from the evergreen appeal of our local tea time treat of goreng pisang.

Durian Cheese Apam hits the third spot with its moist, fluffy texture giving way to an intermingling of mildly cheesy and creamy sweet overtones. Although I find the Ayam Durian Skewer a tad cloying, the chef’s effort in channelling Malaysian famed satay with thick durian puree was commendable. Those who enjoy savoury-sweet pickings would stick up for this unusual combo.

After the inventiveness of the other temptations, the Kek Lapis Durian was kinda ho-hum. Dessicated coconut just don’t cut it in view of the availability of fresh coconut although I found the sponge-like cake sandwiched with durian puree decent enough.

Don't take my word for it. You'd have to savour the droolworthy treats and draw your own conclusions.

For reservations, call Makan Kitchen, tel: 03-2172 7272 or visit: www.makan-kitchen.com for information.

NEW CHEF'S TEASERS AT TI CHEN

Executive Chinese Chef Sam Lu (right) unveils a new a la carte menu with his signature specials come September. For the month of August, discerning diners can savour his Gold Award Winning Menu from the 2015 World Golden Chef Competition in Shanghai. We had a taste of his signature dishes recently, a sneak peek of sorts on the specialities that define  the Chinese cuisine master.

Partnering Dim Sum Chef Yau Kim Yew (top pix, left) he proffered deep-fried scallop with banana & taro paste (RM8/pc, min 4 pcs) as a fresh interpretation drawn from the classic woo kok (mashed yam dumpling).

Scallop and banana were stacked within the crispy taro croquette ...a flirty teaster for our tastebuds with its different soft textures and ethereal sweetness. It was paired with roasted chicken roll with Korean BBQ sauce (RM38) - a savoury roll sheathed in sticky sauce with a slight smokiness imbued by the Korean chilli powder in the marinade for the chicken. Marinated for two bours, the roll is pan-fried then baked. The secret behind the sauce is the reduction of vegetable stock as its base with A1 and Worcestershire sauces added to it.

Double boiled village chicken with fish maw soup (RM88) gently infused with American ginseng root then warmed our hearts with its delicately sweet albeit subtle woody nuance; melding with the inherent sweetness of red dates and oceanic richness of conpoy. The thick and spongy fish maw was unfried, giving the broth a clear, unadulterated flavour.

Steamed cod with Chinese herbs (RM35/100g) was an excellent conversation stopper. Silky smooth porridge boiled with wai san or wild yam coupled with the bright sweetness of wolfberries play vital roles in amplifying the marble smooth cod. The master stroke is the little mound of tong kwai & soy sauce accented foam to bestow whispers of herbal earthiness alongside fried threads of ginger and fresh coriander to temper any fishy overtone.

Butter garlic fried rice with crabmeat (RM40) is a ballsy creation in more ways than one. Using roux to bind the fried rice, the mouthfeel was reminiscent of risotto. Subtly creamy but not too cloying with clumps of egg white added some moistness to it. Crab meat lent it the final flourish.

For first-timers to Ti Chen, the hot fave among regulars has to be Sichuan smoked duck (RM68 half, RM118 whole). Immersed for four hours in a stock of Chinese herbs and spices, the duck is air-dried, given a lacquer of 'colour' then smoked. Following the final roasting which takes about 45 minutes, the duck meat is suffused with pleasing smokiness of apple wood chips with some herbal aftertaste.

Coffee pudding (RM15) inspired by panna cotta and topped with cream used two types of coffee as flavourings and some added sugar. The richness is luxuriant but not sickeningly so thanks to the acidity in the coffee to temper it.

Baked almond cream bun (RM6/pc, min 4 pcs) is polo bun - a buttery crust bun with a twist, the filling from blended almond juice cooked down to a gluey paste. We loved its mildly salty and airy-lightness.

For a taste of Chef Sam Lu's award-winning menu, reserve your seat two days in advance. The menu will be available until end of August.

For reservations, call Ti Chen, tel: 03-7846 1466. Address: Saujana Golf & Country Club, Jalan Lapangan Terbang SAAS, Shah Alam, Selangor