NEW TEMPTATIONS DEBUT AT TATSU

Derived from the word tatsu-jin meaning master or expert, Tatsu Japanese Cuisine brings unconventional twists to traditional Japanese specialities right from the get-go. Rock up to the entrance and your attention would invariably be drawn to the unusual decor of sake bottles and cups strung together. 

Dark, gurgling water features evoke soothing serenity within the dark timber and cobalt blue interior. Modern accents of wood, slate and stone inlays acquire a mellow glow from wall and recessed spotlights.

On our recent visit, the new Chef at Tatsu, Tommy Kuan, rustled up several new dishes for our sampling session. Some offerings were updated versions of familiar classics while a few was unconventional attempts for sake, beer and wine pairings.

An example of that was in the New Style Sashimi with Yuzu Soy and Heated Sesame Oil (RM48). Although the raw fish tasted lusher from the warm nutty oil, I think it's a shame to allow the citron-infused soy sauce overwhelmed the fish's fresh nuance. Good thing its textural crunch remains intact.

The redeeming grace came from the delicious Shrimp-Stuffed Shiitake with Butter Ponzu (RM38). Who knew the aromatic and tender fungi could be so divine when stuffed with bouncy shrimp paste and deep-fried? Dipped in the side of mildly buttery-tangy sauce, these irresistible morsels should go down well with ice-cold beer or warm rice wine.

A gaijin influenced creation, the Crispy Duck Confit on Sprouts and Japanese Spinach with Sesame Vinaigrette (RM47) had the classical French duck (rendered in its own fat) sheathed in Japanese karaage coating.

What emerged was a cohesive interplay of textures: the crisp outer batter coating enveloping meltingly tender meat inside. Glazed with some Japanese barbecue sauce, the fleshy chunks atop a bed of lightly sautéed veggies proved winsome.

The scrumptious Rock Shrimp Tempura with Creamy Chilli Garlic Sauce (RM98) also struck a chord that evening. We relished every bite of the crustaceans' fresh springiness; our tastebuds seduced by the bright, robust saucy accents.

After such boudacious flavours, our palate's clarity was restored by a pot of heartwarming Dobin Mushi (RM35). A clear soup with delicate umami savouriness, we savoured every drop and the little morsels inside the pot.

Thirty seconds is all you have before the pre-cooked on the teppan Australian Wagyu (200gm, RM420) absorbed too much salt from the heated slab of Himalayan rock salt. It's advisable to transfer the meat to another plate before the heat let the salinity seeped into it, making it too salty to enjoy. Don't miss out on the crunchy cubes of beef fat on top. The accompanying ponzu sauce helped to imbue the beef with a different taste profile.

I personally found the entrée of Green Tea Salt Crusted Lamb Chops with Japanese Sour Plum Sauce (RM64) overly salty for my liking even though the lamb was tender to the bite. Luckily the crust can easily be scraped off, toning down the saltiness instantly.

Our protein quota must have overshot its limit by the time the Slow Cooked Beef Short Ribs with Garlic Barbecue Sauce (RM98) arrived. Over 10 hours of painstaking work have gone in to the short ribs before the hefty hunk ended up on our table. Overall, it was notable in every aspect but this is one of those specialities the chef deem best with sake.

More dark forces beckon in the form of Chocolate Tart and Caramelised Yuzu (RM35) for dessert, tempting weak resolves into surrendering to the wicked allure of smooth, decadent chocolate. Put this away at your own peril...or should that be pleasure?

For reservations, call Tatsu Japanese Cuisine, tel: 03-2782 6118. Address: Level 1, InterContinental Hotel Kuala Lumpur, 165 Jalan Ampang, Kuala Lumpur.

BEST OF BEIJING'S CANTONESE FARE AT TOH YUEN

 

Meet guest chef Vincent Zhang from Hilton Beijing whose mettle in whipping up Beijing's finest Cantonese cuisine takes centrestage at Toh Yuen, Hilton Petaling Jaya from now until 30 April 2017. 

Chef Zhang artfully fuses the traditional and contemporary, resulting in Beijing fare with distinct Cantonese influences. According to the youthful Zhang, Beijing folks enjoy whetting their appetite with a wide assortment of cold appetisers and this is evident from the starters he has selected for us, to appeal to the Malaysian palate.

We were greatly tickled by the show-stealing khou sui ji (口水鸡); its tongue-in-cheek tag means drool-worthy chicken. Indeed, the succulent pieces of Poached Chicken with Spicy Sauce certainly ruled the roost once we had a sampling. 

Smothered in fiery-red chilli oil, the chook's deliciousness was discernible. Also the gritty chilli on top wasn't tongue-searing hot as we had anticipated but faintly smoky-sweet. 

Served on crushed ice, the paper-thin strips of Fruit Juice Infused Bitter Melon Salad proved on-point too. If you balk at eating this bitter vegetable, I urge you to try it. Instead of the usual astringent bitterness, each crunchy strip tasted mildly fruity as the chef has infused the bitter melon strips with guava juice (sometimes apple juice is used).

Taking a leaf from a classic 300 year-old Chinese appetiser recipe, Zhang reinterpreted Marinated Chinese Cabbage with Mustard his way. The 1.5" Chinese cabbage rolls which resembled siew mai dumplings were pliantly soft, zapping the tastebuds with bright mustardy zinginess once we bit into them.

The Jellyfish Flower in Aged Vinegar with Leek and Ginger Dressing served up a flourish of toothsome crunchiness and piquant flavours. We relished every mouthful of this simple, no-frills offering.

Both the Double Boiled Black Chicken Soup with American Ginseng, Goji Berries & Red Dates and 'Surfing' Fine Slices of Whole Live Abalone with Kombu Seaweed in Superior Broth stayed true to the Cantonese ching theem (clear and sweet) approach. Suffice to say, the delicate, unadulterated accents of the two soups warmed our hearts at first sip.

A hodge-podge of aromatics had gone into marinating the cod overnight before it was deftly transformed by Zhang into Beijing Famous Pan Fried Cod with Mustard Mayo. Paired with plump asparagus spears and a smear of palate-prickling wasabi mayo, this fish exuded such winsome panache we swiftly wiped everything clean.

Zhang then raised the bar with Beef Fillet with Golden Garlic Crisps, a signature dish at Hilton Beijing. Laden with enticing aroma and nuance from golden brown confetti of garlic crisps, the meat's scrumptious mouthfeel invariably scored top marks.

Sha jiang or sand ginger (Kaempferia galanga) was integral to the chef's marinade for the delectable Crispy Roast Chicken with Salt & Pepper, lending muted camphorous peppery hints to the perennial crowd-pleaser. In fact, the crisp skin and juicy, moist flesh made the side dip of chilli sauce almost redundant.

Equal parts of egg and bean milk went into the making of the yellowish Beancurd with Seared Foie Gras, Scallops & Mushroom Sauce. Never mind its amusing Scotch Brite appearance, the eggy beancurd topped with chopped spinach worked like a charm. The beancurd's light sponginess was a match made in culinary heaven with the attendant ingredients.

Ethereally soft and bouncy textures converged with delicately sweet and clear seafood accents in the dish of Prawn Fritters with Asparagus, Pumpkin & Lily Bulbs; an admirable testament of the chef's flair for his craft.

He even presented a Chinese fusion of Taiwan's famed 'three cup' chicken speciality, resulting in Cantonese Stir-fried Chicken with Trio of Sauces. Whilst basil plays an assertive role in the Taiwanese version, the convergence of savoury-sweet-herbaceous nuances was no less voluptuous on the palate. Garlic, ginger and shallot also added a tinge of warm spiciness.

Mindful of our hot, tropical weather, Zhang proffers Hot Green Bean & Mandarin Peel Broth as one of the dessert options. Known for its cooling property, the green bean purée was pleasantly smooth and slightly unctuous.

Another cooling dessert broth which should prove popular is Snow Pear with Red Dates & Sweet White Fungus, served hot or cold. A timeless not too sweet treat that's both nutritious and wholesome after a hearty meal.

Dishes for the Beijing's Finest Cantonese Cuisine by Chef Vincent Zhang are priced from RM35 onwards. 

For reservations, call Toh Yuen, tel: 03-7955 9122 extn. 4073/74 or check www.zestpj.com for more details.

FOOD & FUN AT SAMA-SAMA FOOD FIESTA

Guests were treated to food and fun in a carnival atmosphere recently at Sama-Sama Hotels KL International Airport from 19 to 23 April. Besides the wide variety of tempting dishes served, the event featured fun fair type games, a roving clown and screening of movies and cartoons for children. A Beer Garden was also included to cater to the international clientele.

A battalion of 21 chefs from Sama-Sama Hotel KLIA, Sama-Sama Express KLIA and Sama-Sama Express klia2 teamed up to present popular local, Western and Lebanese food at the different stalls set up at the sprawling Rooftop Garden of KLIA.

Although we were spoiled for choice with 21 stalls to choose from, we zoomed in for Sama-Sama Signature Mee Rebus. The tasty serving came with thick, sweetish gravy smothering yellow noodles, slices of fried beancurd, a wedge of hardboiled egg and crispy fritters.

I also enjoyed Laksa Kedah, tantalising rice noodles in tamarind and flaked fish gravy. Fresh cucumber strips, onion and thick gooey prawn paste were the accompaniments for this offering. The delightfully sour broth was surprisingly zingy on the palate but that added to its irresistible appeal.

Family-friendly fare which proved popular with the young ones was the pretty Sushi Rolls served at the Japanese stall. Both traditional and reverse rice rolls with assorted fillings were attractively presented so many diners made a beeline for them.

Rice fiends had a gala time sampling Nasi Dalcha Daging Rendang Mamak. The aromatic rice was redolent with fragrant spices and really hit the spot when eaten with chunks of tender beef rendang, veggie pickles and crackers.

Noodles seemed to dominate our favourite eats list that evening we were there. The Char Kuay Teow had plenty of wok hei, that splendid smoky accent few cooks managed to imbue into this tricky dish. Chives, egg and beansprouts lent textural dimension although the tiny cockles were nothing to shout about.

Heh, our penchant for Penang fare was obvious as we followed up with a serving of Pasembor Penang after that. While it wasn't the best, we agreed the version was decent enough to pass muster.

 

If you like watching chefs in action, stop by the Curry Puff and Apam Balik stalls. These local snacks deserved equal standing with foreign imports like waffles and pies...in my opinion ours taste way better and are much cheaper!

Thumbs up for the Apam Balik which came in normal and pandan variants. The pancake was crisp and crunchy; the thickness too was spot on.

Colourful and rich, the variety of Malay Kuih left us in a sweetly jovial mood. Washed down with a cup of hot Teh Tarik, we couldn't cope with much more food. How we wish we had tummy space for Hainanese Chicken Rice, Rojak Sotong, Ikan Bakar or Chef Ammar's signature rice and curry specialities but alas, it was futile for us to fit anything else in.

If you missed this Food Fiesta, fear not. Sama-Sama Hotels may organise similar events in future and possibly for the fasting month so keep your eyes and ears open for upcoming news.