URBAN: A MOD GASTRONOMIC HAVEN

Urban’s signature appetiser Element of the Sea by Chef de Cuisine Sharusmizal bin Mohamed Salleh reminds me of Malaysia-born, Australia-based chef Cheong Liew’s famed Dances of the Sea, a ground-breaking quartet of Mod Oz appetisers as opposed to Chef Sharusmizal’s contemporary European creations.

The Element of the Sea artfully blends global influences and regional ingredients into a sumptuous visual and sensorial composition. Fresh Hamachi (yellowtail) Sashimi recline alongside Saba Ballotine, Relish King Crab and Cold Inaniwa Udon.

Remember to heighten the freshness of the raw yellowtail slices with calamansi lime juice from the get-go. The rolled disc of saba ballotine (French for bundle or parcel) stuffed with Spanish piquillo pepper is exquisite, lightly touched by mildly tangy ambarella fruit emulsion. Textural contrasts emerge to delight the palate when you sample the Relish King Crab with tofu followed by cool, silky Inaniwa Udon adorned with briny smoked Spanish caviar and tart yuzu jelly.

Our maiden visit to Urban was heralded by two molecular gastronomy-type amuse bouches: freshly shucked Oysters topped with Seaweed & multi-colour ‘pearls’, and spoonfuls of spherical pumpkin purée that look deceptively like egg yolks.

Prices at Urban are surprisingly sober with a la carte appetisers priced at RM55 nett, mains at RM95 nett and dessert at RM45 nett each. A tasteful 3-Course Dinner sets you back by RM150 nett while a posher Gourmet Special 3-Course Dinner can be had at RM210 nett. Fancy a Degustation experience? Then trump up RM250 nett for a princely seven course menu.

The appetiser of Smoked Farm Quail Roulade is on-point thanks to a splendid supporting cast of petit micro salad, quail egg benedict, miso daikon, trumpet mushroom, truffle vinaigrette, sour lychee, cabernet sauvignon with raisins & lavender infused perfume, and toasted brioche. We can’t help but wax lyrical over the dish’s cornucopia of rustic, woody aroma and hearty country flavours.

Weightier in substance and taste is Arborio Rice with Grilled Squid and Diver Sea Scallop. The creamy, slightly nutty grains prove ideal to amplify the lushness of the sautéed girolle (chanterelle mushrooms) and tranches of black truffle.

Coarsely crushed Iranian pistachios and crisp Moroccan bestiya lend textural interest in the sumptuously tender Sous Vide Lamb Loin. Complemented by vine yellow pearl chevre tomato cherry tart, the delectable meat shines in the cordial embrace of mint pea purée and marjoram jus.

Another main to reel landlubbers in is the speciality of Red Mullet. Paired with butter poached tiger prawn, the delicate fish sweetness tastes stellar amidst tomato beurre blanc sauce, silky mash potato, crustacean powder, salted cod croquette, jumbo asparagus and confit tomato.

Voracious eaters would enjoy the generous portion of Crispy Duck Breast crusted with Jordan Almonds. Red cherry jus forms a classic, harmonious affinity with the subtly gamey meat. 

To liven up the trad side of sautéed Savoy cabbage, the chef springs a delightful curveball into the equation by proffering a savoury beef bacon-flavoured crème caramel in place of the requisite starch or carb.

Are you one of those diners who want it all? Then the house special of Surf & Turf should rock you. A notable combination of grilled petite fillet mignon with king prawn, the protein pairing comes accompanied by potato fondant and green peppercorn sauce.

Dessert options are worth savouring too and should rightly pique the interest of the sweet-toothed. I’m partial to Thousand Layer (RM45 nett) – a prettily stacked creation of crisp, paper-thin mille feuille layered with colourful mandarin orange cream and exotic fruits. An ethereal but almost guilt-free meal ender.

It’s neck to neck with the signature Manjari 75% Semi Freddo Dark Chocolate & Caramel Popcorn Ice Cream. Sounds decadent but thankfully, we daresay the iced confection is neither heavy nor cloying. Conjured using premium chocolate and house-churned ice cream, this sublime treat should hit the spot in our prevailing spell of heatwave.

Refined handiwork of the chef is obvious from the Hazelnut Pate a Choux. Embellished with caramelised nuts, hazelnut maison cream & cranberry purée, the éclair boasts lush, creamy accents that complement coffee or tea.

Weekdays also see Urban as a quick lunch refuge for the white collar crowd in the city. The Weekday Lunch Express (RM59 nett) pulls them in with a choice of Chinese fusion, Western or Japanese set. For the Chinese fusion and Western set, diners can select an appetiser to go with a main and a dessert. Those who opt for the latter have two different bento boxes to choose from.

For reservations, call URBAN restaurant, tel: 03-2141 9988. Address: Lobby Level, Hotel Istana Kuala Lumpur City Centre, 73, Jalan Raja Chulan, Kuala Lumpur. www.hotelistana.com.my

BUKA PUASA UNDER THE STARS AT TREAT

Dark, sweetish and slightly drier than curry, the Daging Masak Hitam Johor is a befitting dish that lends shine to the newly launched Dining Under The Stars buffet at TrEat Restaurant & Bar, Oakwood Hotel & Residence KL.

Unlike Perak's famed rendang tok which is completely dry and enriched with kerisik (fried grated coconut), this speciality remains moist with deep-seated spice accents permeating the cubes of beef. Delicious.

The dinner promotion coincides with the fasting month and new Chef de Cuisine Addy Dzulfadzly Abdullah takes pride in serving a modest but sedap spread of 222 local delicacies for buka pausa from 29 May until 24 June.

Slake your thirst after the day-long fast with chilled drinks: soya bean, mata kucing, sirap selasih and teh tarik before you proceed to sample the variety of dishes laid out. Assorted kerabu and fresh ulam resonates with me especially the crunchy and zingy Kerabu Pucuk Paku tossed in sambal, shredded Kerabu Mangga, Thai-style Glass Noodle Kerabu and Pineapple Kerabu; each distinctly holding their own with varying degrees of hotness and textural interest.

Plain rice is a compelling 'must have' when it comes to relishing the piquant Rendang Ayam Pedas and my fave, Patin with Tempoyak Curry. The former should please spice fiends who like hot and spicy dishes whilst the latter is an acquired offering best suited for palates that find pungent fermented food appealing. Honestly, the version here is rather muted but packs enough 'oomph' to satisfy fans.

Don't miss the stalls set up by the Poolside where fresh off the grill items are served. The chef's signature percik sauce lifts the Roast Lamb to raveworthy new heights, imbuing the mildly gamey meat with bright spice nuances and rich, nutty santan creaminess. Even the Beef Satay deserves mention alongside traditional festive eats like Ketupat and Lemang complemented by Beef and Chicken Serunding. 

 

Back at the main spread, appetisers such as Cold Soba Noodles & Squid Salad and Tuna & Mixed Veges Salad are refreshing choices to savour before diving into the heftier dishes. Both starters are light yet delightfully apt to counter a day's worth of sweltering heat.

Despite its unappetising appearance, we recommend the Mussels with Black Pepper Sauce which are surprisingly on-point; their inherent fresh sweetness and springy succulence inviting enough to leave you asking for more.

One unusual dish we haven't seen elsewhere is Duck Egg Curry, a cheery yellow-tinged masak lemak curry with partially poached and fried duck's eggs. Intriguing but worth trying as it is most scrumptious.

Despite the modest spread, we reckon there are more than enough specialities to leave you spoiled for choice. Fresh lettuce and salad greens are part of the line-up as is Sayur Masak Jawa, Bubur Lambuk, Nasi Briyani, Assorted Chilled Seafood and a chef on duty to dish up Pasta upon request.

Even the sweet array of dessert ticks the requisite boxes, from colourful Malay Kuih and hot broths like Bubur Cha Cha to Continental Cakes, Bread & Butter Pudding and Fresh Fruits. Trying to fit everything in would be unthinkable so be selective and choose your indulgences carefully.

Priced at RM77+ per adult and RM39+ per child, the promotion is available from 6.30pm to 10.30pm based on rotational menus.

Opened in November last year, the 251-unit Oakwood Hotel & Residence Kuala Lumpur is part of the international Oakwood group which has properties in 20 cities across 11 Asia-Pacific countries.

For reservations at TrEat Restaurant & Bar, call tel: 03-2710 9180. Address: Ground Level, Oakwood Hotel & Residence Kuala Lumpur is located at 222, Jalan Ampang, Kuala Lumpur.