signature appetiser Element of the Sea by Chef de Cuisine Sharusmizal bin
Mohamed Salleh reminds me of Malaysia-born, Australia-based chef Cheong Liew’s
famed Dances of the Sea, a ground-breaking quartet of Mod Oz appetisers as
opposed to Chef Sharusmizal’s contemporary European creations.
Element of the Sea artfully blends global influences and regional ingredients into
a sumptuous visual and sensorial composition. Fresh Hamachi (yellowtail)
Sashimi recline alongside Saba Ballotine,
Relish King Crab and Cold Inaniwa Udon.
to heighten the freshness of the raw yellowtail slices with calamansi lime
juice from the get-go. The rolled disc of saba ballotine (French for bundle or parcel) stuffed with Spanish piquillo pepper is exquisite, lightly
touched by mildly tangy ambarella fruit emulsion. Textural contrasts emerge to
delight the palate when you sample the Relish King Crab with tofu followed by
cool, silky Inaniwa Udon adorned with briny smoked Spanish caviar and tart yuzu
maiden visit to Urban was heralded by two molecular gastronomy-type amuse bouches: freshly shucked Oysters topped
with Seaweed & multi-colour ‘pearls’, and spoonfuls of spherical pumpkin
purée that look deceptively like egg yolks.
at Urban are surprisingly sober with a la carte appetisers priced at RM55 nett,
mains at RM95 nett and dessert at RM45 nett each. A tasteful 3-Course Dinner
sets you back by RM150 nett while a posher Gourmet Special 3-Course Dinner can
be had at RM210 nett. Fancy a Degustation experience? Then trump up RM250 nett
for a princely seven course menu.
appetiser of Smoked Farm Quail Roulade is on-point thanks to a splendid supporting
cast of petit micro salad, quail egg benedict, miso daikon, trumpet mushroom,
truffle vinaigrette, sour lychee, cabernet sauvignon with raisins &
lavender infused perfume, and toasted brioche. We can’t help but wax lyrical
over the dish’s cornucopia of rustic, woody aroma and hearty country flavours.
in substance and taste is Arborio Rice with Grilled Squid and Diver Sea Scallop.
The creamy, slightly nutty grains prove ideal to amplify the lushness of the sautéed
girolle (chanterelle mushrooms) and
tranches of black truffle.
crushed Iranian pistachios and crisp Moroccan bestiya lend textural interest in the sumptuously tender Sous Vide
Lamb Loin. Complemented by vine yellow pearl chevre tomato cherry tart, the delectable meat shines in the cordial
embrace of mint pea purée and marjoram jus.
main to reel landlubbers in is the speciality of Red Mullet. Paired with butter
poached tiger prawn, the delicate fish sweetness tastes stellar amidst tomato beurre blanc sauce, silky mash potato, crustacean
powder, salted cod croquette, jumbo asparagus and confit tomato.
eaters would enjoy the generous portion of Crispy Duck Breast crusted with
Jordan Almonds. Red cherry jus forms a classic, harmonious affinity with the subtly
To liven up the trad side of sautéed Savoy cabbage, the chef
springs a delightful curveball into the equation by proffering a savoury beef
bacon-flavoured crème caramel in place of the requisite starch or carb.
you one of those diners who want it all? Then the house special of Surf &
Turf should rock you. A notable combination of grilled petite fillet mignon
with king prawn, the protein pairing comes accompanied by potato fondant and
green peppercorn sauce.
options are worth savouring too and should rightly pique the interest of the
sweet-toothed. I’m partial to Thousand Layer (RM45 nett) – a prettily stacked
creation of crisp, paper-thin mille feuille
layered with colourful mandarin orange cream and exotic fruits. An ethereal but
almost guilt-free meal ender.
neck to neck with the signature Manjari 75% Semi Freddo Dark Chocolate &
Caramel Popcorn Ice Cream. Sounds decadent but thankfully, we daresay the iced
confection is neither heavy nor cloying. Conjured using premium chocolate and
house-churned ice cream, this sublime treat should hit the spot in our prevailing
spell of heatwave.
handiwork of the chef is obvious from the Hazelnut Pate a Choux. Embellished with
caramelised nuts, hazelnut maison
cream & cranberry purée, the éclair boasts lush, creamy accents that
complement coffee or tea.
also see Urban as a quick lunch refuge for the white collar crowd in the city.
The Weekday Lunch Express (RM59 nett) pulls them in with a choice of Chinese
fusion, Western or Japanese set. For the Chinese fusion and Western set, diners
can select an appetiser to go with a main and a dessert. Those who opt for the
latter have two different bento boxes to choose from.
reservations, call URBAN restaurant, tel: 03-2141 9988. Address: Lobby Level,
Hotel Istana Kuala Lumpur City Centre, 73, Jalan Raja Chulan, Kuala Lumpur. www.hotelistana.com.my
Dishes prepared by Chef Sharusmizal always enticing no matter in terms of flavors and presentation~
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