EAST MEETS WEST WITH FINESSE AT JAVA TREE, E&O HOTEL PENANG

Pineapple Prawn Curry. Salted Cod Fillet. Blackened Top Hats. Beef Wellington. Apom Bongkwa. East meets West with culinary aplomb at the new Java Tree restaurant, Eastern & Oriental (E&O) Hotel Penang, making it a notable outpost to dine in.

Named after a historical java tree planted in the hotel’s garden promenade even before the E&O Hotel was established in 1885, Java Tree sets a stately stage for the showcasing of Nyonya specialities and classic European dishes.

The iconic tree – immortalised on an expansive feature wall – draws the eye when you step into Java Tree. Accentuated with dark wood trims and sparkling chandeliers, the resto’s understated ambience is further enlivened by wall sconces, the occasional gilded columns, starched white linen-sheathed tables and earth toned upholstered chairs.

Otak Otak also available a la carte at Java Tree

An appetising trio of Blackened Top Hats (pastry shells stuffed with shredded jicama, carrot, cuttlefish and egg with salmon roe), Lobak (stuffed roll of chicken, shrimp, yam, shredded egg and salmon roe) and Otak Otak (steamed spiced local mackerel mousse with coconut cream, turmeric and kaffir lime leaves) from my Nyonya Signature Set (RM135) makes an great impression from the get-go. 

The Otak Otak deserves special mention as I find the mousse's spice quotient distinct on the palate, with subtle bursts of heat to set the tastebuds tingling. Spoonfuls of the soulful Itik Tim (pickled mustard vegetable with duck soup) summon up childhood memories of meals partaken at my grandparents’ house, a fond reminder that old is indeed gold.

More titillating temptations: Oxtail Gulai (braised oxtail, mustard seeds, vinegar and spices), Pineapple Prawn Curry (deep-sea tiger prawns with pineapple curry) and Terung Tempra (eggplant with lime, soya sauce and chilli) call for plain white rice – the best canvas to capture the dishes’ plethora of bright, piquant flavours. IMHO, the collective servings are generous enough for two light eaters.

A pretty floral shaped Sago Gula Melaka (sago pearls served with coconut milk and palm sugar syrup) brings the sumptuous meal to its sweet conclusion.

On the European Classics front, no appetiser evokes more nostalgia than Prawn Cocktail (RM30). Presented in a cocktail glass with tender romaine lettuce lining the base, Java Tree’s version has three cooked prawns in cocktail sauce (concocted from mayo, ketchup and lemon juice) perched over the rim. Mango dices and mustard sauce give the ensemble a touch of zippy sweetness.

Sweet caramelised onions makes the French Onion Soup (RM30) a siren’s song for the soul. Two gratinated gruyère toasts add depth and richness to the savoury broth, leaving us smacking our lips with satisfaction.

Poached in milk and wholegrain mustard, the signature Salted Cod Fillet (RM125) with baby spinach, poached egg and Hollandaise sauce is an on-point palate-pleaser. Although the dish sounds indulgent, any scepticism proves unfounded once you sample the fish’s lush yet delicate creaminess.

Meat lovers should sink their teeth into the scrumptious Entrecôte 10 oz Steak Café de Paris (RM80) with Baby Vegetables – my partner’s request for medium rare doneness is acquitted with aplomb. We also give thumbs up to the Butter Grilled Asparagus (RM30) with poached egg and truffled mushroom.

Other scrumptious options include Beef Wellington (RM85), Lamb Rump (RM75) and Chicken Fricasse (RM75) among others.

Remember to save stomach space for Java Tree’s seductive sweets from the dessert cart. Succumb to decadent creations of mildly tangy Lemon Tart or a sumptuous Paris-Brest – a circular shape choux pastry with praline-hazelnut crème, or the classic Crème Brûlée. Also recommended is the Apple Streusel Tart (RM28), a yummy crumble-topped treat with custardy apple worth the extra calories.

 

 

 

Currently, Java Tree is open for dine-in from 6.30pm to 10pm. For reservations, please call 016-419 8923 or click: http://bit.ly/JavaTree

AFTERNOON TEA APPEAL AT PALM COURT, E&O HOTEL PENANG

Tea time at the new Palm Court of Eastern & Oriental Hotel (E&O) Penang harks back to the halcyon days when well-heeled ladies, lovey-dovey couples and even an immaculately garbed gentleman or two gather for a cuppa and light refreshments prior to dinner.

Named after the legendary Palm Court Bar that used to operate below the echo dome in the lobby during the Sarkies Brothers’ era, the new Palm Court retains its charming old world ambience: overstuffed sofa lounges, wingback chairs, ottomans and coffee tables intersperse with starched white tableclothed tables make it a welcoming haven to escape the tropical weather.

 

In the old days, bachelors, planters, traders and sailors converge at the Palm Court for their glass of stengah (equal measures of whisky and soda water, served over ice), today it's business and leisure travellers, close girlfriends and small families who are drawn to the resto's a la carte assortment of Indian and Malay inspired dishes, Chinese noodles and casual international favourites for lunch or dinner.

The Afternoon Tea (RM88 nett per person) is a favourite mainstay here, featuring triple-tier stands of finger sandwiches and dainty pastries. For a touch of luxe, the Champagne English Afternoon Tea is RM168 nett per person inclusive of 1 glass of champagne. 

Out of the 13 varieties of tea, we selected Orange Passionfruit, Japanese Sencha and Organic Earl Grey to accompany our selection of savoury and sweet temptations.

From the appealing assortment of sandwiches presented, it was obvious much thought has gone into the whole repertoire. Upping the ante on the plain ol’ cucumber sandwich, the Palm Court team proffered Cucumber, Dill and Cream Cheese Pullman Sandwich, Smoked Salmon Tartare Wholemeal Finger Sandwich, Marinated Tuna Flake Sandwich, Crab Meat Slaw Sandwich, Corn Fed Chicken Ragout Gougères (cheese choux pastry), Truffle Scented Egg on Poppy Seed Butter Bun, and Organic Spinach Quiche to set the ball rolling.

Being waited on hand and foot, luxuriating in the hallowed setting made the experience thoroughly enjoyable. After the on-point savoury appetite pleasers, we made short work of the Raisin and Plain Scones with clotted cream, house-made strawberry jam and for a touch of the tropics, pineapple jam.

By the time we were ready to hit on the Red Velvet, Opera Cake and Fruit Cake, we had struggled a little. There were still Fruit Tartlets and Millefeuille to contend with but alas, it was a lost cause as having downed copious cups of our tea, we were hard pressed to make short work of everything. Overall, it was an exceptional afternoon to remember.

Note: Review conducted prior to Malaysia's Conditional Movement Control Order (CMCO). The English Afternoon Tea is now available every Saturday & Sunday from 3pm to 5pm at Palm Court, E & O Hotel Penang.  Limited seats available; to reserve click: http://bit.ly/PalmCourtBooking

SOONG KEE@SETAPAK SERVES MORE THAN BEEF NOODLES

Established in 1945 by its eponymous founder Soong Kee, this 6-decade old lou jiu phai (notable brand name) beef noodles in Kuala Lumpur drew only loyalists during the early days.

Today, the business has grown beyond its original premises, with newer outlets making their way into mall-based food courts and independent set-ups appearing in commercial suburbs.

Although synonymous with beef noodles, Soong Kee has expanded its menu to include non-beef offerings, to widen its appeal amongst today’s familial crowd of multi-generational diners.

Our recent visit to Soong Kee in Setapak is an enlightening experience – we discovered new things to enjoy in addition to getting reacquainted with the tried and tested.  Firstly, the signature Beef Ball Noodles (dry/soup RM8.90) and Five Spice Beef Tripe Noodles (soup/dry RM10.90) especially the kon lou (dry) version remain a perennial fave to hit the spot. 

Here’s the unexpected clincher: meehoon or rice vermicelli is even better than mee when it comes to capturing the lush flavour of that beefy mince.

If you want more of the extra lieu (ingredients) such as Beef Balls (5 pcs RM5, 10 pcs RM10), Beef Slice (RM10), Five Spice Brisket (RM12) or Five Spice Tendon (RM13), the various items can be ordered a la carte.

Should you have family members in tow who eschew beef, Soong Kee now offers alternative options such as Char Siew Wantan Mee (dry/soup RM7.90) and Chicken Curry Mee (RM9.90). We can vouch for both the noodle variants especially the latter. Not only is the spice quotient pleasantly tantalising, the coconut milk creaminess is also nice enough without being cloying.

 

Accompanying comfort food dishes such as Fried Wantan (5 pcs RM4, 10 pcs RM8), Wantan Soup (RM6.50), Fried Dumplings (RM6.50) or Dumplings in Soup (sui kow) are plump and chockful of tasty mince filling; crowd-pleasing fare for both adults and kids.

 

 

Healthy Poached Vegetables (RM5.50) and succulent Steamed Chicken (RM9) are also served should you wish to supplement your meal with more substantial dishes for the family.

Call Soong Kee tel: 03-4141 8124 /016-924 0507 for delivery or take away (self pick-up) orders. Soong Kee is open during CMCO from 10am to 8.30pm daily. Address: 22A, Jalan Danau Niaga 1, Setapak, Kuala Lumpur