TOSCA X GOODDAM 'FOUR HANDS' DINNER

Italian cuisine lovers are in for a treat with the upcoming ‘four hands’ dinner featuring Chef Murli Pillay (left) of Tosca at DoubleTree by Hilton KL and Chef Daniel Yap (right) of Gooddam restaurant in Petaling Jaya.

Scheduled for 14 & 15 July, the Tosca x Gooddam event will proffer a 5-course menu (RM358 nett per person) prepared by both chefs. The food and wine pairing costs RM498 nett per person.

 

Us media members had an advance preview of the event one balmy evening at Tosca. The rustic wood-stone clad setting evoked a laidback, resort-style feel although some air-conditioning won’t be remiss IMHO in the current sweltering weather.

Chilled Sanfeletto Prosecco Superior heralded a quartet of amuse bouche: Black Angus Short Rib Arancino, Oyster Beignet, Liver Mousse, and Aged Hamachi Crudo.

 

The much-anticipated Black Angus Short Rib Arancino with Sundried Tomato Aioli and Summer Truffle was a tad underwhelming. Coated with breadcrumbs, the deep-fried Italian rice ball barely had any beef in it, whilst the tomato aioli eclipsed everything in its wake.

 

Topped with a bright green, savoury sauce, the crisp-fried Oyster Beignet with Green Onion Fondue restored our faith. The mollusc’s delicate taste remained discernible and melded well with the parmesan shavings and cheesy green onion ‘fondue’.

Airy-light and exquisitely delicate accents characterised the Liver Mousse, Strawberry Vinegar Caramel, Edible Weeds and Flowers sandwiched in between wafer-thin discs. Ditto for the Aged Hamachi Crudo, Pickled Pumpkin and Spiced Passionfruit.

 

Also top marks for the crusty slices of focaccia with pesto butter.

A zesty-fresh Fantini Pinot Grigio complemented Chef Murli’s Symphony of Heirloom Tomatoes with Aged Balsamic and Goat Cheese Panna Cotta. 

We loved how the soft pudding-like goat cheese creaminess harmonised with the assortment of fruity heirloom tomatoes. Tangy-sweet aged balsamic vinegar further enhanced the dish’s allure.

Chef Daniel proved his mettle with delicious Agnolotti of Wolf Herring Mousse, Red Coral and Nasturtium Flower Butter. A type of pasta originating from Piedmont, the chef folded flattened pasta dough over toothsomely springy fish paste. Served alongside a slab of sweet and flaky wolf herring, the spicy flower butter added lush flavour to the whole ensemble.

 

Teetotallers can expect interesting mocktails such as Cucumber Gimlet and Acai Kombucha to complement their meal.

 

While the Rack of Lamb with Pickled Purple Carrot, Celeriac Purée, Mâche & Thyme Jus looked promising, my portion was unfortunately tough and sinewy. The gloppy jus didn’t help. Fortunately, my dining partner’s serving was on-point. 

 

We had a medium body Cecchi Chianti DOCG brimming with nice berry nuances which went superbly well with the lamb.

Dinner concluded on a high note with an enticing Marsala Sabayon Ice Cream, Wood-fired Fig and Fig Leaf Meringue wrapping up the evening. It was a light, mildly sweet yet slightly indulgent dessert to savour.

 

For reservations at Tosca, call tel: 03-2172 7272 or email: KULDT_FB@hilton.com

 

SEAFOOD GALORE AT PENGHULU SEAFOOD

Penghulu Crisp Fried Thai Style (market price) or ‘Lai Sa’ Fish in Chinese, was the show-stealer during our maiden lunch at Penghulu Seafood.

Sliced then coated in a sheer dusting of flour, the fish slices were fried until crisp. Afterwards the tilapia slices were assembled back as a whole fish, served with a heap of sliced onion, chilli, curry leaves and fried garlic crisps. We enjoyed the deliciously on-point fish. A separate dip of plum sauce, kalamansi lime juice and sugar lent it extra boost of flavour (not that the fish needed it).

This was one of the dishes at Penghulu Seafood. The restaurant specialises in Muslim-friendly Chinese cuisine with 46-year-old chef Wan Yee Kwong helming the kitchen team. Ikan bakar (grilled fish) and steamboat with fresh seafood and premium ingredients are also on the menu.

Us avid noodle fans thoroughly relished the Fried Tenderloin Beef Noodles (small RM24, medium RM35, large RM46). Topped with a thick, eggy sauce, the subtly smoky-charred noodles and sliced beef primed our appetite in anticipation of other goodies to come.

 

Thai and local influences melded nicely in the Grilled Stingray. Marinated with a dash of turmeric, the fleshy stingray’s natural sweetness proved enticing. Such a pity the two accompanying sauces were a tad watery and failed to perk up the dish. Hopefully the restaurant will work on improving the sauces.

 

Don’t let the fiery hues of the E San Seafood Tom Yum (S RM24, M RM30, L RM44) be a deterrent as the well-balanced soup tasted milder than expected. Chilli fiends can always request for the hotness to be dialled up.

 

Surrounded by deep-fried shredded kailan, the Garlic Mixed Seafood with Kailan (S RM50, M RM75, L RM100) proffered a nice milieu of textural contrasts: tender and springy squid and prawns touched with a Thai-style dressing of fish sauce, chilli, salt, sugar and lime juice against the savouriness of crispy greens, silverfish and dried shrimps.

According to the chef, his Pattaya Chicken (S RM24, M RM35, L RM45) was another pseudo-Thai creation. After the chicken had to be fried using the ‘oil bath’ method, the chook came piled with sliced onion, fresh coriander, Thai chilli and fish sauce, and lime juice. The chicken was tender and juicy, with the piquant sauce tantalising our tastebuds.

A surefire crowd-pleaser, the Belacan Four King Vegetables (S RM20, M RM28, L RM38) comprising long beans, petai (stink beans), eggplant and okra stir-fried with pounded chilli and belacan (shrimp paste) was robustly spicy.

The chef’s Chilli Prawns (S RM42, M RM60, L RM80) – sizeable crustaceans drenched in a mouth-watering tomato-chilli sauce, echoed the flavourful accents of Singapore’s chilli crabs.

 

We found the salt and pepper accentuated Deep-fried Soft Shell Crabs (M RM44, L RM85) passed muster whilst Teochew-style Steamed Jenahak (snapper, market price) with its requisite accompaniments: sliced beancurd, kiam chye (salted mustard leaves)and shiitake mushrooms should appeal to those who prefer clear, understated flavours.

For dessert, you may order Thai Pumpkin Custard from Penghulu Seafood’s sister restaurant E San Thai next door. The delightfully soft steamed pumpkin with its custardy centre was the perfect closure to our indulgent lunch.

For reservations, call Penghulu Seafood at 011-5633 6377. Address: G-G-3A, Block G, Jalan PJU1A/3, Ara Damansara, Petaling Jaya, Malaysia. Business hours: Mon-Thurs 11.30am – 3pm, 5pm – 10pm. Fri 11.30 – 3pm. Closed Tuesday. 

 

CHALET POP-UP AT EQ KUALA LUMPUR

During its halcyon days from 1973 until the original Hotel was closed for redevelopment, Chalet at the old Equatorial Kuala Lumpur was the arbiter of fine-dining in Kuala Lumpur. A rustic haven with white linen-topped tables, gleaming silverware, and impeccable service, it was an outpost to see and be seen; a rendezvous for Malaysia’s royalty, movers and shakers, the glitterati and jet-setters.

 

I learned to enjoy classic Swiss-Continental specialities such as fondue and raclette among others here. The signature sabayon and crêpes suzette were delivered with such panache, few diners could resist the table-side theatrics.

Chalet loyalists and new customers will have a chance to relive those glorious days through the Chalet pop-up at Sabayon, Level 51 from 24 July to 12 August. Former Chalet Restaurant Manager Azlan Alias and Amerjit Singh Lakha Singh will be at hand to further evoke the nostalgic feel.

During the recent media preview, Raclette Valaisanne (RM118++) was the quintessential curtain-raiser. A Swiss tradition from the Valais canton, half a round of raclette is melted in a specially designed contraption. The melted cheese is then scraped off and served with new potatoes and cornichon pickles.

Strong with rich savouriness, the briny cheese came accompanied by boiled baby potatoes to offset its salty profile, whilst tart pickles tempered its rich creaminess.

Another beloved classic, Fondue Au Fromage (RM288++ for 2 persons) or Swiss cheese fondue with truffle also teased our tastebuds. When you order this speciality, be prepared for an interactive dining experience in which you use long skewers to dip bread cubes into a heated pot of melted cheese mixed with wine and cornstarch. Cheese enthusiasts will enjoy this.

We were also treated to popular appetisers of Salade De L’Empire Romain (RM68++), romaine lettuce salad flecked with shaved Parmesan cheese; Steak Tartare (RM108++), raw minced grain-fed beef steak with red wine vinegar, capers and mustard; and Saumon Fumé Norvégien (RM108++), smoked salmon loin with traditional condiments.

Those tasting portions did the trick to whet our appetite, priming us for Crème De Champignons Sauvage (RM68++), Chalet’s signature creamy wild mushroom soup. Served in a crusty bread bowl, the generous portion of subtly woody-earthy broth enticed us to lap every drop up.

Deliciously lush, Émincé de Veau à la Zurichoise (RM208++) – sliced veal in mushroom cream sauce complemented by crusty rosti potatoes – was as delectable as I remember it.

Other much-anticipated specialities making a comeback will include Lobster Thermidor, Roasted Mustard Crusted Rack of Lamb, and Canard à la Presse (pre-order required).

The preview concluded with a dramatic flair when Amerjit deftly prepared Crêpes Suzette (RM58++), pancakes artfully flambéed with Grand Marnier liqueur and orange juice. Served with vanilla ice cream, the tissue-thin pancakes enhanced with the slightly bittersweet boozy-citrusy sauce left us on a nice high.

Reservations are now open for the special pop-up event. For reservations and enquiries at the Chalet pop-up, email: dineateqkl@kul.equatorial.com, WhatsApp +60 12 278 9239 or call tel:03 2789 7722.