Although unfathomable, there are people who prefer a
‘hands free’ way of savouring hairy crabs. Elegant Inn HK Cuisine’s the
6-course Hairy Crab Roe and Abalone Set (RM368++ per person, min 2 diners per
table) will fulfill this desire with aplomb.
The indulgent set will allow you to do what Hong Kongers - well-heeled or otherwise - fervently enjoy i.e. yue
chi lou farn, literally dousing shark’s fin with rice. It's a popular euphemism for
enjoying in the high life. The set menu’s penultimate course of Braised Hairy
Crab Roe with Golden Coin Shark’s Fin with ‘Lou’ Rice is guaranteed to be a conversation-stopper.
But I digress. Our dining party experienced first-hand, both Elegant Inn’s two Hairy Crab Set menus.
For the Hairy Crab Roe and Abalone Set, a triumvirate of sublime
appetisers: a shot glass of smooth Steamed Silky Egg with Hairy Crab Roe,
Golden Curry Sesame Prawn Roll, and E.I. Crispy Vegetarian Rice Roll started our party rolling with a big bang.
Every spoonful of that crab roe laden steamed egg sent
shivers of delight down our spine. The crisp prawn roll tantalised with its
British-style aromatic, sweetish curried filling. E.I.’s perennial smooth rice roll with its crisp centre, for textural
and flavour contrasts rounded up this platter. 
Sampling the collagen-rich Claypot Soup of Shark’s Fin
Cartilage, Pork Rib Soup with Fish Maw and Bamboo Pith, we couldn't get enough of the broth's flavourful depth and rich
umaminess.
I have yet to meet anyone who’d turn down a sumptuous
dish of Braised 7-head South Africa Abalone. At E.I. you know you're getting the good stuff thanks to the lady proprietress' exacting standards. 
Complemented by slices of Pan Seared Spanish Iberico Pork and Handmade Fish Curd in Abalone Sauce, the premium shellfish's natural marine-sweetness and melt-in-the-mouth tenderness was simply orgasmic. The rich-tasting Iberico pork was a masterstroke as the pork not only soaked in the complex sauce but also amplified the nuances whilst the puffy fish curd was a delicate work of deft culinary skills.
Complemented by slices of Pan Seared Spanish Iberico Pork and Handmade Fish Curd in Abalone Sauce, the premium shellfish's natural marine-sweetness and melt-in-the-mouth tenderness was simply orgasmic. The rich-tasting Iberico pork was a masterstroke as the pork not only soaked in the complex sauce but also amplified the nuances whilst the puffy fish curd was a delicate work of deft culinary skills.
Stronger, heartier flavours prevailed in the Kaffir Lime Garlic Fried Spring Chicken. Fleeting whiffs and accent of the fresh citrusy lime in the fried spring chicken was discernible. Crispy garlic
bits brought pops of faint sweet pungency to each mouthful.
Words aren't adequate to describe that superbly sublime serving of Braised Hairy Crab Roe with Golden Coin Shark’s Fin with ‘Lou’ Rice. That fluffy, lightly fried rice with slivers of egg stirred with lustrous hairy crab roe and shark's fin-imbued broth will leave you on otherworldly gastronomic heaven.
A flaky light Bird’s Nest Egg Tartlet accompanied by a bowl of nourishing dessert broth
of Double Boiled Snow Pear with Chuanbei Citrus Peel left us happily satiated.
To satisfy true-blue hairy crab fans, E.I. pulls out
the stops with a 6-course Hairy Crab Set (RM268++ per person, min of 2 per
table).
The opening salvo of Porcini Smoked Farm Egg (add French Goose
Liver for RM28) gave the Happy Start platter a slightly different, more solid taste dimension. Along with Golden Curry Sesame Prawn Roll and E.I. Crispy Vegetarian
Rice Roll, the harmonious trio acted as nice precursors of the other goodies in
store.
Providing tonic for the soul is Claypot
Soup of Shark’s Fin Cartilage and Pork Rib Soup with Fried Fish Maw and Bamboo
Pith. Smoother textural interest can be amped up with 'far kaw' or Fish Maw at an additional RM30.
It was such a luxury having a team of service experts to crack
and prepare the leading ‘star’, a 5-tael Steamed Live Hairy Crab for us to savour.
Nowadays, it seems the amount of roe in these crabs are down to luck of the
draw.
Sometimes male crabs (look for a bell-shape pattern on
its underbelly) have more of that creamy yellow-orange roe. The roe of female crabs tends to appear reddish-orange, in firmer clumps but no less
delectable. We were told in China hairy crabs are available year-long but they're at their prime eating quality between late September and early November.
After the E.I. team efficiently handled the requisite
prep work, we feasted like royalty, feasting with ease: merely scooping up the roe and picking the bits
of sweet flesh from the legs and claws to sample. Hot cups of warming Bentong ginger tea helped to balance the cooling effects of eating those salubrious crabs.
Our tastebuds readily welcomed the robust dimension of the crispy Kaffir Lime Garlic Fried Spring Chicken. Most certainly a welcome change after the earlier, more delicate spectrum of texture and flavour. 
Braised Hot & Sour Handmade Noodles with a whole
Crunchy Oyster awakened our tastebuds to vividly piquant accents.
From the delightfully silky, toothsome noodle strands to the tantalising tart-tangy and slightly punchy broth, we had nothing but high praises for the dish. The splendid finishing touch was a whole Japanese oyster, enticingly sheathed in ethereal crisp-crunchy batter.
Double Boiled Snow Pear with
Chuanbei Citrus Peel and Osmanthus Sea Coconut Pumpkin Pudding rounded off our
meal on a splendid albeit mutedly sweet note.
Fans of hairy crabs can feast to their hearts’ content
at Elegant Inn HK Cuisine where two set menus are available until early
November 2023.
For reservations at Elegant Inn HK Cuisine,
call tel: 03-2070 9399. Address: 2.01, 2nd Floor, Podium Block, Menara Hap
Seng, Jalan P. Ramlee, Kuala Lumpur.
