MORE THAN DIM SUM AT SANTAI YAMCH'A

 

Patrons can santai or chill out at Santai Yamch’a Dim Sum Restaurant over a plethora of Halal Dim Sum, Mee Tarik and Rice whenever they step in.

Dim sum takes pride of place here with familiar options such as Prawn Siew Mai (3 pcs RM12.80), Har Gao (3 pcs RM12.80), and even Loh Mai Kai (RM10.80). Freshly steamed upon order, the delicate morsels taste agreeable and pass muster with minced chicken and prawns making up the key filling.

Handmade in Santai’s central kitchen and available from 12pm to 6pm daily, the Prawn Cheong Fun (2pcs RM16.80) is commendable. We find the flat rice noodles smooth enough, with springy pieces of prawns enfolded within.

The Shanghai Red Oil Dumplings (3 pcs RM12.80) dial up the interest factor further; each dumpling piques our palate with its tart vinegarish accent and leaves behind a slightly tongue-numbing mala effect.

More textural contrasts arrive in the form of deep-fried Prawn Beancurd Rolls (2 pcs RM9.80). Served with Japanese mayo on the side, these crispy offerings should appeal to those partial to fried dim sum options.

For the young and young-at-heart, the minion-lookalike Nerdy Red Bean Bao (2 pcs RM10.80) and “googly-eyed” Custard Lava Bao (2 pcs RM12.80) may prove too cute to resist. Pillowy-soft with generous red bean paste and custard filling, the steamed buns are delicious to boot.

A wide selection of kopitiam-style beverages is served here. The house Cham (RM7.80) – a kaw (strong) blend of local kopi and tea is best enjoyed ice-cold but if you prefer it hot or less kaw, let the serving team know.

Other recommendations include Sirap Bandung Cincau (RM8.80), 3 Layer Tea (RM7.80), and Asam Boi Lemonade (RM8.80).

Apparently, the Mee Tarik (hand-pulled noodles) is also a crowd-puller. Variations range from Dry Mee Tarik with Soup Chicken Dumplings (RM18.80) and Mala Mee Tarik with Beef Slices (RM25.80) to Dry Mala Mee Tarik with Salted Chicken Chop (RM17.80).

Overall, the noodles boast springy toothsome texture, with the beef slices version emerging as the most popular in our dining party. The ‘dry’ mala noodles accompanied by chicken chop also gets the thumbs up thanks to the flavourful chicken chop and noodle pairing.

Should you wish to supplement a side dish, try the pan-fried Gyoza (3 pcs RM10.80, 5 pcs RM15.80).

Rice fans won’t feel left out as Santai also serves Grilled Chicken Teriyaki with Crushed Egg Rice Bowl (RM21.80), Nasi Lemak Bunga Telang (RM25.80) with Fried Chicken Whole Leg and Sweet & Sour Sauce Hainan Chicken Chop with Fried Rice (RM24.80).

Deliciously tender and smothered with a tasty teriyaki sauce, the Grilled Chicken Teriyaki rice bowl makes a hearty, delicious combination with the fluffy scrambled egg, and pink pickled ginger strips.

Coloured with butterfly pea flower juice, the fluffy Nasi Lemak Bunga Telang with Fried Chicken Whole Leg (RM25.80) accompanied by all the condiments is a hefty serving guaranteed to leave you replete.

Another regular crowd-pleaser is Sweet & Sour Sauce Hainan Chicken Chop with Fried Rice (RM24.80). Although we find the sweet & sour sauce too generous for our liking, we reckon most diners will probably find this offering up to their expectations.

SantaiYamch’a Dim Sum Restaurant, Lot LG122, Food Street (Old Wing), One Utama Shopping Centre, Petaling Jaya. Tel: 03-6261 0888

SHOW-STOPPERS OF SHHHBUUULEEE

 “Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication” Leonardo da Vinci

Tofu with Soy-cured Egg Yolk, Tomato Water and Herbs (RM22). Drunken Cockles with Rice Wine, Taucu and Mustard Seeds Oil (RM38). Grouper Head Terrine with Chayote, Szechuan Pepper and Chilli Vinaigrette (RM32).

When you encounter such show-stopping house specialities, it dawns on you Shhhbuuuleee isn’t any run-of-the-mill rooftop bar and restaurant. The defyingly simple yet intensely flavour-packed curtain-raisers are mere harbingers of what to expect from this quaint outpost, ‘hidden’ atop RexKL, an old cinema reincarnated into a hip cultural and creative hub.

Upon arriving at RexKL, the hunt for the resto’s ultra-discreet staircase entrance in a mini adventure in itself…hint: it’s within Book Xcess. As I climbed the flights of stairs up to the outpost, I felt like Alice heading into ‘wonderland’.

The interior of Shhhbuuuleee features a seamless integration of the old: RexKL’s original flooring and walls; and the new: extended bar seating, minimalist eclectic elements and retro touches are artfully combined to evoke a casual, laidback atmosphere.

Like those art house flicks produced to appeal to a discerning audience, Chef Mui Kai Quan is the culinary director whose creative force comes from past stints gleaned from Osteria Mozza and Esquina in Singapore, Ledbury in London, Maaemo in Oslo and Sprout in Johor Bahru. While his modern Malaysian fare takes centre stage at ChoCha Foodstore, Mui now intends to shine the spotlight on East Asian fare with his inimitable touches at Shhhbuuuleee.

After that stellar cast of curtain-raisers, good conversations flow smoothly along thanks to the recommended tipple: Shuho Awesome Karakuchi (RM35 per glass, RM280 per bottle) is winsome for its clean, refreshing taste. The chilled saké paired superbly well with the specialities mentioned earlier as well as the appetite-whetting Wagyu Tartare with Pickled Radish & Seaweed Crackers (RM52).

Local produce also takes the limelight when possible. The chef is an earnest supporter and advocate of local farmers and food producers like the Langit Collective, and champions more sustainable eating in the local F&B scene.

Ample proof of the chef’s mantra is evident in the Grilled Peppers with Sesame & Peanut Butter (RM26). Locally grown, the colourful assortment of banana and shishito peppers tossed in sesame and peanut butter tastes delicately sweet and deliciously tender.

The other scene-stealer was Red Glutinous Rice with Sakura Shrimp & Salt-Cured Fish Roe (RM24). We relished every bite of the nutty, slightly sticky home-grown red glutinous rice which has absorbed the rich savouriness of both the shrimps and fish roe.

Sweet with a fair amount of smooth, fine flesh, the Tai Head with Bamboo Fungi Broth and Puffed Rice (RM88) easily reeled us in. The accompanying broth – chicken stock and bamboo pith simmered for hours – alone was so chockful of flavours, we lapped up every precious drop.  A chilled shochu, Satsumamura Aka Shochu (RM35 per shot) enhanced our enjoyment of the said dish.

Drawing inspiration from his Chinese roots, Mui uses fu yue (fermented beancurd) to conjure up the homely Braised Tripe & Tendon with Fu Yu Broth, Daikon, Lotus Root & Tang Oh (RM48). For the uninitiated, the savoury Chinese condiment tastes similar to cheese; lending depth and complexity to the various ingredients which soaked up all the wonderful flavours of the braising broth.

After being bedazzled by a slew of palate-pleasing blockbusters, subsequent contenders such as Fried Sole with Shiso and Salted Mustard Green (RM42), as well as Sautéed Kale and Wood Ear Mushroom with Kombu Butter (RM22) had to fight harder to gain attention.

Perked up with a relish of chopped salted mustard green (ham choi) and fresh beefsteak leaves serving as an edible wrap for the panko-crusted fish, the former was akin to fish and chips gone East and ‘fit’.

Healthy eating won’t be topping your agenda when you’re at Shhhbuuleee but the kale and wood ear mushroom combo makes an appearance in the menu for good measure. Although the dish was a tad underwhelming, we dutifully polished off every morsel due to its super-nutritious content.

Mui admits he’s still working on dessert and the menu changes based on the availability of the ingredients and produce. So be prepared for more culinary sequels to savour at Shhhbuuleee.

For reservations at Shhhbuuuleee, call: 012-6120786 or https://letsumai.com/widget/shhhbuuuleee. Address: 3^rd Floor, RexKL, 80, Jalan Sultan, Kuala Lumpur.