Right off
the bat, the cracker of an opener, Papadum with Peanuts & Moong Dhal Salsa (RM10) hints at what lies in store at GOA by Hubba. Heaped with the Goan-style salsa of diced tomatoes and
onion, peanuts and lentils, the round, blistery discs of
Indian crackers deliver a sampling of celebrity
chef Sapna Anand's modern Indian delicacies.
Even the cocktail list features
inventive spice-infused concoctions, a bid to evoke the ebullient spirit of
Goa, Sapna’s home turf. I’m thoroughly smitten by the tastebud-tickling Rasam Shooter (tray of 6, RM38) — raveworthy shots of tequila,
rasam mix, lime juice, mint syrup, tabasco, honey, pop rocks and salt.
Mama
Manca (RM38) — a rockin’ blend of lemon juice, ginger syrup, turmeric syrup
& a dash of cayenne pepper is a riotous slew of warm, robust flavours. Other
bona fide faves include flavoured martinis and mojito variants.
Mumbai’s
famous Chowpatty Beach with its profusion of beachside snacks is the inspiration
behind the faintly smoky-sweet Chowpatty Fire Roasted Corn (RM16). Daubs of herbed
cheese dip spiked with chilli lime salt amp up the appeal of those slightly
charred corn cob.
Pillow-soft
Chinese steamed buns form a sensuous alliance with shredded, slow-cooked spiced
mutton, fried shallot & coriander to create the distinctive Mutton Floss
Mantou (RM26). The Vegetarian Mantou (RM20) isn’t shabby either as the tasty spiced
cauliflower, pepper, caramelised onion and coriander in similar buns grab its
fair share of gustatory interest.
Hot on
the heels come toothsome Goan Stuffed Squid (RM28) in which whole grilled squid,
stuffed with minced prawn in housemade Goan spice paste, jostle for equal attention.
Presented
at the tableside with blazing fanfare, the Grilled Cauliflower with Smoked
Sauce (RM28) is a literal conversation-stopper. Once the server singes the
mound of cauliflower, a tide of lush savouriness and fresh green sweetness floods
our palate thanks to the mildly smoked fennel tomato sauce and a sprinkle of
parmesan on top.
The
sensorial overload continues when we sample the Kashmiri Lamb Chops (RM95).
Redolent
with the deep-seated accents of Goa’s housemade spice blend, the meaty cutlets
are delectable when smeared with mint chutney.
When the Garlic
Butter Prawns (RM58) reach our table, the offering seems a tad underwhelming
although we can’t fault the freshwater prawns in creamy garlic butter sauce.
Surprisingly, the Stir-fried Bhindi (RM20) holds its own possibly because the jumble
of crispy okra, chickpeas, onion, dried chilli and spices proffer more distinct
textural variations.
The
complexities of Indian spice blends can never be underestimated, requiring
years of practice and in-depth knowledge to master. All we know is the Goan
favourite of Beef Vindhalho (RM28) requires yet another multitude of
traditional Vindhalho spices to spark off the dish’s cachet of big, stimulating
flavours.
Likewise,
an aromatic and punchy tandoori spice marinade left a deeply nuanced imprint in
the Tandoori Chicken Chop (RM33). Served with mint chutney, every mouthful of
the tender chook sets our tongues a-tingling with subtle hotness and zingy
spiciness.
Our meal
epilogue centres on Homemade Ice Cream (RM16) which runs the gamut from mango
or rose to candied peanut & caramel. Top of the picks goes to the sweetly
scented Rose Ice Cream. The Candied Peanut & Caramel is decent too although
its allure pales slightly in comparison once you savour the floral flavour.
For reservations, call GOA by Hubba, tel: 017-786 7611.
Address: 9, Ascott Kuala Lumpur, Jalan Pinang, Kuala Lumpur. Open daily from 6pm to 1am.
