THE HAN ROOM'S NEW LOOK

They say life’s a stage and it seems even dining out has to go beyond the mere act of serving food. Chefs and restaurateurs are constantly exploring ways to raise the dining experience bar and each meal is a command performance no less.

Our dessert of Chilled Snow Pear & Seaweed Ball in Teapot (RM18++ per pot) at The Han Room is a fine example. We were astounded when the sweet broth came in a matching teapot and bowl set cleverly designed to delight, adorned with a life-like, semi-3D goldfish at the base. When the broth is poured into the bowl, it deceives you into believing a goldfish is ‘swimming’ in the receptacle.

It is such little unexpected surprises that make The Han Room such a popular venue with Chinese cuisine lovers. Renovated in mid-September 2015 for 1.5 months, the newly relocated resto looks resplendent with minimalist Chinois chic.

Modern angular pendant lights, plush red carpet and some cushy sofa seats make The Han Room a befitting venue for weddings and corporate events. Overall, the cavernous space fits about 28 tables for banquet seating. Coupled with The Oriental Group’s well synchronised operations, diners are made to feel welcome and accorded top notch treatment.

My first encounter with the unique vegetable known as ice plant was in Chengdu last year. Intriguingly, it was originally from South Africa and was widely cultivated in Japan and China on dry, arid land. Dotted with fine icy droplets on its leafy surface, the dewy green plant is almost artificial looking and has great ability to store salt. It’s also edible but bland like lettuce so when you order the Ice Plant Salad (RM28++ per portion) here, an appetising dip of sliced shallot, dried shrimps and chilli gives the crunchy leaves a nice zingy ‘kick’.

Decked with finely diced mango for a touch of tangy sweetness, the crunchy Prawn & Foie Gras Toast (RM28++ per portion) won’t go remiss with a glass of wine. It’s a simple but clever marriage of East & West culinary accents; the usual deep-fried toast with prawn paste switched up with sliced foie gras for extra luxe mouthfeel.

Porcine fans should find ample succour in the Crispy Pork Belly with Garlic (RM38++ per portion). We like how the mildly caramelised garlic pips sweeten the thinly sliced streaky pork while fried curry leaves infuse the meat with an aromatic scent.

Chef Justin Hor and his erstwhile team have the knack for turning familiar Chinese dishes into updated temptations – the Charcoal Grilled Iberico Pork Neck with Garden Salad (RM45++ per portion) bears testament to this. According to Emily Chiam, our charming host for the evening, it’s a variation from the highly sought-after soft shell crab salad. The porky serving came atop a bed of fresh salad greens and some tangy dressing to minimise the guilt factor.

Peking Duck (RM118++) served with Piggy Buns is given a novel twist thanks to dainty Instagram-worthy buns shaped like cute piggy faces; a soft fluffy base for the crisp duck skin. Remaining duck bones and meat are whisked away to be stir-fried with noodles, resulting in another raveworthy dish.

Soup fans should lap up the Fish Maw with Yunnan Ham in Superior Stock (RM168++ for a 4 person serving). Redolent with savoury umami flavour, we appreciate every spoonful of the superior stock; a salubrious canvas to showcase the fish maw’s toothsome texture, the soft Chinese cabbage and the briny taste of fine Chinese ham.

Covered with melted cheese on top, Baked Two Rice Varieties with Seafood in Pumpkin (RM58++ per portion) is mercifully nothing pedestrian like those char chan theng (HK tea house) baked cheesy rice. Enlivened with assorted seafood and pine nuts in a whole baked pumpkin, be prepared to jettison your no-carb diet for an irresistibly flavourful crispy rice puffs and fluffy cooked rice.

Dim sum is a hot commodity during lunch (from 11 am) on weekdays and brunch (from 10 am) on weekends and public holidays. The soft Chicken Mushroom Buns (RM8++ per basket) are fashioned to resemble brown crackly lined faux ‘mushroom’ caps but the filling tastes lighter on the palate when compared to regular char siew bao filling.

Health concerns among city folks have also see the rise of subtly sweet dim sum options and obviously, the Crystal Longevity Buns with Macadamia (RM8++ per basket) are supposed to fit the bill. Encased inside the stretchy, translucent tung meen skin similar to that of har gao (prawn dumplings), the nutty filling borders to the point of blandness on the palate. Oh well, one man’s dessert is another man’s 'poison' in these trying times.

For reservations at THE HAN ROOM, call: 03-2284-8833. The new location is T-216A, 3^rd floor, The Gardens, Mid Valley City, Kuala Lumpur.

WEEKEND ESCAPADE AT ESTADIA BY HATTEN

Modern sophistication meets traditional charm at the 196-room Estadia by Hatten, a boutique Peranakan home-style luxury hotel in historical Melaka. 

 

I was smitten the minute we stepped into the spacious, uncluttered lobby. White and gray walls are tastefully complemented by vintage-patterned floor tiles, ornate lantern lights and framed artworks depicting the cultural essence of the Peranakan or Straits Chinese community. 

 

Even the lift lobby - geometric clean-lined black iron grills matched with ornate side tables - and tunnel-long corridors are so artfully fashioned we couldn’t resist snapping photos of them. 

The 54sq.m, 2-bedroom family suite we stayed in follows a similar ID trait; a compact integration of old-world Baba Nyonya charm adorns the cosy TV lounge whilst the bedrooms are packed with modern amenities. Standard creature comforts include coffee/tea-making facilities, in-room WiFi, pristine linen-clad beds and ensuite shower cum bathroom.

Breakfast buffet as well as Peranakan dishes available a la carte and in set meals for lunch and dinner are served at Makan Nyonya – a cheerful all-day dining restaurant. Awash in shades of gray and linear lines, the simple interior serves as an ideal backdrop to show off beguiling decorative accents drawn from Melaka’s rich cultural heritage (we went gaga over the display of colourful tiffin carriers). More seating is tucked away at the long but well-shaded patio.

Dinner – graciously hosted by the Estadia by Hatten team – was served hidang-style i.e. communal sharing portions similar to family meals. Munching on Nyonya Ikan Bilis tidbits, the resident chefs pulled out the stops with a soup, three mains and a vegetable dish to complement plates of white and yellow rice.

The light and clear Fish Maw Soup with Chicken Meatball featured freshly boiled chicken soup amped up with minced chicken meatballs and spongy fish maw. A fave with kids and soup fans for sure.

Conversation briefly stopped at our table as we relished the tantalising flavours of Spicy Chicken Tomato, Nyonya Fish Head Curry, Sambal Petai Prawns and Sambal Bendi.

 

Cooked with spicy, chunky tomato sauce and vegetable, the chicken was similar to the Malay dish of ayam masak merah. We enjoyed the bright, robust accents from the hearty offering which was best with rice.

The palate-awakening tanginess of tamarind lent a different twist to the Nyonya Fish Head Curry. It was an appetite-whetting serving which caused the carb lovers to overdose on more rice laced with curry gravy while working their jaws over chunks of red snapper head.

Stink beans or petai stir-fried with succulent prawns in the chef’s sambal sauce was a classic speciality that most Nyonya households would serve at home. Also known as twisted cluster beans, the long beans with pods of edible green seeds might be an acquired taste for some but I have learned to love it. Despite their pungency, the beans are known for many health benefits including lowering blood pressure, countering depression and stress, boosting brain power and a panacea for heartburn and morning sickness.

Blanched lady’s fingers served with a piquant sambal sauce topping helped to add a touch of green to our meal. This is another perennial vegetable dish that appeared regularly on many Baba Nyonya family tables.

To douse the heat from our main meal, we had icy cool treat of Nyonya Cendol washed down with the restaurant’s signature Settlement Mango Mix.

You can also enjoy a drink or two at the welcoming Baba's Lounge or go shopping at the adjacent Dataran Pahlawan Melaka Megamall. We found some interesting outlets there like this whimsical teddy bear-themed cafe.

A memorable weekend in the historical city was made even better thanks to our enjoyable escapade at Estadia by Hatten. We shall return!

Estadia by Hatten Bandar Hilir, Jalan Merdeka, Melaka, 75000 Melaka, Malaysia. For reservations, call tel: 06-227 9600