WINE & SWINE TIME AT MOSTO

Italian swine and wine offerings hog the spotlight at Mosto Wine Bar & Restaurant, KL’s months-old chic and casual dining outpost.

Opened last December, Mosto is nestled in a secluded corner of the upmarket and posh One KL condo block. Set behind banks of manicured hedges and a footpath lined with lush foliage, it is but a stone’s throw away from the iconic KLCC twin towers.

 

Rich wood accents hold sway within; matched by dark marble floor and a sleek marble bar. Sturdy Chengal wood dining tables and high-backed chairs are parked at strategic nooks and in front of a modern floor-to-ceiling wine cellar; providing seating for 50 guests.

The shaded terrace area encircled by stone and greenery set with more Chengal hardwood high round tables and circular broad stools offer seating for up to 40 guests.

Our cocktail o’clock started with Negroni (RM38++) — a potent mixture of gin, Martini Rosso & Campari followed by a slightly mellower but no less alluring Jungle Bird (RM38++) tipple which comprised dark rum, Campari, pineapple juice & syrup.

In line with Mosto’s laidback concept and following true Italian culinary traditions, we commenced with Gran Tagliere (RM99++, ample for 2). We literally pigged out on the warm slices of housemade foccacia and crusty bread splashed with a little extra virgin olive oil. The breads were the perfect canvas to pile on the various Italian cured meats: Parma ham, Mortadella, Pancetta, Speck, Salami di Coppa and Lardo. 

We enjoyed picking different tempting morsels off the platter. Besides the cold cuts, we had olives and three types of cheeses: Valtellina Casera, Parmigiano and Pecorino with honey and blueberry conserve. A fab way to have our appetite suitably whetted.

Lightly tossed with garlic & chilli, we urge you to fork out that extra RM15 for the house roasted pork belly to be included for the Spaghetti Aglio Olio (RM22 for classic sans pork version). Once you savour this, no other pasta will measure up.

Sublime pork ribs, Costolette di Maiale (RM78++) then stole the main course show. Generously glazed with glossy house-made barbecue sauce, the hearty and meaty ribs were thoroughly suffused with the kind of deep, well-rounded flavours that induced you to pick the bones clean. Served with mixed lettuce salad, roasted potatoes & sweet corn, we managed to do just that.

Simpler but no less winsome is Pork Sausage & Polenta. Perfumed with herbs and spices, the sausage chunks were aptly complemented by a creamy serving of polenta. Never a fan of cornmeal, this version actually hit the spot for me.

What little tummy space we had was filled up by two Italian dessert treats: Creme Caramel (RM15++) and Tiramisu (RM20++). Both were competently made and left no room for complaint.

For reservations at MOSTO Wine Bar & Restaurant, call tel: 03 2386 6029. Address: Ground Floor, ONE KL, Jalan Pinang, KL.

GO THE WHOLE HOG AT ORIENTAL PAVILION

The aromatic dry rub recipe used for the Oriental Group of Restaurants’ house speciality of Macau-style Roast Suckling Pig is such a closely guarded secret that only Group Executive Chef Justin Hor and the roast master chef know the actual ingredients. According to Emily Chiam who heads the marketing division, the prized concoction has industry competitors trying valiantly to replicate it but to no avail.

My guess is it’s a cohesive combination of Asian spices with Continental herbs but instead of dwelling on this trade secret, I rather focus on the deliciousness of the Roast Suckling Pig. With a week to go, do make haste to Oriental Pavilion in PJ and savour the delectable speciality before the piggy promotion ends on 31 July.

Available at the promo price of RM238++ each (regular price RM350++), the Roast Suckling Pig can be enjoyed in three distinct preparations: finest Macau style, BBQ with foie gras sauce or BBQ with glutinous rice.

When it comes to the fine art of roasting, Chinese chefs win hands down. It doesn’t take a genius to realise just how tricky it is to achieve that unbelievably even and lacquer-like sheen of a whole suckling pig. Comparable to an edible work of art, the crisp, crackling skin is such a joy to behold and an even greater gastronomic delight to ingest.

Tucked underneath the crispy skin is a beguiling layer of well-seasoned, juicy meat; each delicious piece can be enjoyed on its own or wrapped up in a fresh cos lettuce leaf and cherry tomato. Chilled glasses of fresh citrus juice are served to cleanse the palate afterwards.

The BBQ Suckling Pig with Glutinous Rice is more substantial as it comes with a layer of flavourful glutinous rice underneath. Taste-wise, this speciality is subtler on the palate but proffers more textural contrasts. Again the slices of crispy suckling pig can be eaten with the classic accompaniments of spring onion florets and sweet bean sauce or the newer combo of fresh lettuce and cherry tomato.

Also hogging the limelight this July is Charcoal Grilled Iberico Pork Ribs Spanish Style. Available at the promo price of RM138++ per rack (regular price RM198++), the hefty slab of Iberico ribs proves on-point and ticks all the right boxes in terms of flavour and texture.

Gnawing on the bone to tear off strips of that tender meat, our tastebuds grasped the full extent of the Spanish-influenced marinade – a splendid amalgamation of delicately sweet, warm spice and fresh, grassy herb nuances reminiscent of sunny Espana. You’d pick the bones clean off this signature dish for sure.

For reservations, call Oriental Pavilion restaurant, tel: 03-7956 9288. More information can be found at www.orientalrestaurants.com.my

TIME TO MEAT THE PORKERS

An interesting 'hook'. A compelling story. That's what every restaurant should have if it wants to stand out and pull in the crowd. Enterprising restaurateur Herukh Jethwani is savvy enough to know that and he's proven it with his newest eatery, Meat The Porkers.

Having set the local resto scene abuzz with his Fierce Curry House in Bangsar and Fiercer in Solaris Dutamas, Herukh is now hitting paydirt with Meat The Porkers and Siew Yoke Biryani (RM28) as its raison d'être.

The passionate foodie cum restaurateur regaled us with how his penchant for pork led him to experiment with cooking pork Northern Indian-style. While the concept of Siew Yoke Biryani is decidedly simple, Herukh and his culinary team underwent lots of trial and error (including tapping on the expertise of his regular pork butcher and supplier) before they got it down pat.

Knowing he was in uncharted waters, Herukh decided to gauge market response by accepting takeaway orders for his siew yoke biryani through Facebook. He recalled mirthfully, "My family wasn't amused when strangers kept coming to our house to collect their siew yoke biryani orders."

Still, every pork lover has his day and Herukh finally brought Meat The Porkers to fruition last November. The pared-down, fuss-free setting is adorned simply with stacked, multi-coloured boxy shelves displaying a whimsical collection of pigs on one wall facing a long bar. It oozes casual, fun and laidback vibes that put diners immediately at ease.

He admitted he was surprised by the many new customers who are beating a path to his new resto's doors. "Right now, I daresay Meat The Porkers is the world's one and only restaurant to serve Indian-style porky dishes."

Like a daredevil stepping off a precipice, Herukh has succeeded in turning Indian cuisine on its head with his new, tasty yet familiar dishes: tandoori pork ribs, pork pakoras, pork sheekh kebabs and bacon & cheese naan.

The showstopping Siew Yoke Biryani came befittingly up to expectations. Our anticipation peaked when the dough-sealed lid was removed, releasing intensely droolworthy aroma as chunks of tender siew yoke (roast pork) were dug out from within the rice.

It was good to have the crackling crisp skin served separately, to be sprinkled onto the biryani hence lending nice crunchiness to the rice. We reckon copycat eateries would soon be jumping onto the bandwagon to offer this inventive and scrumptious speciality.

During our visit, we noticed every table invariably had a serving of Tandoori Pork Ribs (RM48). Ah, the proof was definitely in the eating the minute we sunk our teeth into the juicy, meaty ribs. The specially concocted marinade is tweaked from Gordon Ramsay's barbecue sauce recipe, infused with myriad Indian spices and rubbed onto the pork ribs. 

Baked in a traditional tandoor, the moist meat had a toothsome bite to it and boasted deep-seated flavours. To enhance the overall dining experience, sprinkle Pol Sambol (grated coconut chutney with chilli powder and lime) and Tamarind BBQ Sauce onto the ribs. The side dish of Mint Chutney also took the edge of the meaty richness. Trust us, you'd pick the bones clean.

The Pork Pakoras (RM20) was super addictive thanks to fingerlings of pork loin sheathed in light batter riffed with aromatic spices that lit up the tastebuds the more we chewed. A kid-friendly option should you have young ones in tow.

While I'm not big on the house speciality of Bacon and Cheese Naan (RM15), I think it should hit the spot for anyone who enjoy super cheesy fare. The naan came stuffed with bacon chips sautéed with garlic for greater flavour, bound together with Colby and Cheddar cheese to bestow melty and stretchy appeal.

Warm, spicy overtones (presumably ginger, green chilli, cumin, fenugreek and garam masala) were discernible in every bite of the delicious Pork Seekh Kebabs (RM28). Traditionally, this speciality is made with minced lamb but the white meat appears to work just as well. 

It took a lot of restraint on our part not to beg for plain rice when the irresistible Butter Pork (RM28) was part of our feasting fray. Rich and redolent with mouthwatering whiffs of heady Indian spices, this dish was a surefire crowd-pleaser.

Herukh's tempting pork-folio also included Pork 65 Masala (RM28). From my past encounters with the chicken 65 dish, I was told by Indian chefs the spice-marinated deep-fried boneless chicken chunks were a popular snack. At this resto, the pork pieces were rendered in thick masala gravy bursting with robust spice accents.

To fulfill our requisite veggie quota, we had supplementary dishes of Eggplant Masala and Dhal Curry. Both were excellent in the taste department; notable in the supporting role of the resto's porcine-dominant menu.

For reservations, call: 019-987 1945. Meat the Porkers is located at D1-G3-5, Solaris Dutamas, Kuala Lumpur. Business hours: 12noon - 3.30pm; 6.30pm-10pm (last order 9.45pm). Closed on Tues.