LA FAMIGLIA RULES AT MODI & ROSA

Delicious pizza. Hearty pasta. Seasonal items. Set lunches and a kids’ menu. Everything la famiglia wants and more at Modi & Rosa, a new Italian restaurant and wine bar at Glo Damansara.

Entrepreneur Cavaliere Modesto Marini, who’s responsible for spreading the appeal of Italian cuisine in Malaysia some two decades ago, has set out to promote his Italian culinary heritage – first at Marini’s on 57 at the iconic Petronas Twin Towers and as of February this year, at Modi & Rosa.

Touches of moda - the family man – are reinforced in the culinary offerings and the eatery’s overall look and feel with subtle inflections of his wife or rosa. “The heart and soul of Modi & Rosa is a place where my guests could relax, eat well and spend time with family and friends minus any protocol or dress code. Our recipes follow how Italians have been doing it for centuries without alternations or changes to the preparation. It’s fresh and hearty food us Italians are brought up on.”

The contemporary yet rustic setting includes thick wooden tables flanked by cushy leather armchairs and leather upholstered seats. Al fresco dining is available at the external seating area. Ladies get to enjoy complimentary Lucy Cocktail – an invigorating mixture of vodka, watermelon and lemon juice with soda every Thursday from 6pm onwards.

Some Asian-Euro creations such as Deep-fried Soft Shell Crab with Wasabi Mayo (RM23) and Deep-fried Vietnamese Spring Rolls (RM18)are the only concessions made as delectable light bites to complement the house range of wines and other tipples.

Our curtain raiser of Buffalo Mozzarella (RM26) with Fresh Tomato, Basil, Oregano and Extra Virgin Olive Oil is a typical Italian appetiser should you be hosted to a family-style dinner. Delicately creamy with a lush milky overtone, the semi-soft cheese and fruity tomato wedges are a match made in heaven.

Those who don’t enjoy vegetables may find a hearty veggie-based soup like Minestrone (RM16). Celery, carrots, beans, onion, tomatoes with herbs go into this classic broth, unfailingly warming hearts and tummies with every sip.

You can’t go wrong with the pizzas here. The true Italian rule of thumb is to keep things simple (forget about freaky toppings like cornflakes, mayo or crabstick). We find the base of our Pizza Capriciossa (RM36) has that right amount of crisp sturdiness to borne the weight of assorted toppings: mushroom, turkey ham and artichoke. The base has a generous slathering of chunky tomato sauce on it and a restrained amount of melted, stretchy mozzarella.

Somewhat indulgent but homely, you can imagine Italian mamas feeding their families with a big, flavourful dish like Ravioli with Creamed Spinach Sauce (RM36). Almost similar to Chinese wantan, the pasta stuffing tends to vary according to recipes. Here, the stuffed pasta has mushroom in it; smothered under thick truffle spinach sauce.

Interestingly, Modi & Rosa uses carnaroli – the king of Italian rice –for its signature Carnaroli Risotto with Seafood (RM38). These grains are even starchier than Arborio, bestowing the dish with a velvety unctuousness that melds the inherent seafood sweetness and earthy tomato nuance together.

Not into carbs? Then plump for the Crispy Duck with Honey Gravy (RM38) and Mash. This is something to write home about – the sizeable, meaty duck leg is a well-balanced, wholesome distillation of what Italian food is all about. Simple and uncomplicated like how mama would cook it.

No surprises lurk in the dessert section but everyone prefers it that way I think. The ultra-wobbly Panna Cotta with Walnuts & Honey (RM17) deserves special mention as this is a tricky treat to get right. I love the light, smooth yet silky rich texture that doesn’t leave you wracked with guilt.

Instead of ‘tipu-misu’, you can expect the real deal when it comes to Tiramisu (RM20). Nothing perks up the tastebuds quite like sublime layers of liqueur-infused and espresso-soaked savoiardi (lady finger sponge biscuits) with mascarpone.

Less strenuous on the budget would be the Lunch Specials priced at RM38++ in addition to Happy Hours from 3pm to 9pm. Kids’ menu options available at only RM18++.

For reservations, please Modi & Rosa, tel: 03-7733 1719. Address: Lot 06&07, LG Floor, Glo Damansara, Jalan Damansara, Kuala Lumpur. Open daily 11am-230pm; 6pm-1030pm.

A FABBRI-LOUS EXPERIENCE AT VILLA DANIELI

Chef Marcello Fabbri returns to Villa Danieli - pix courtesy of Sheraton Imperial KL

After a successful guest chef stint last year at Villa Danieli last year, the Michelin-starred chef Marcello Fabbri has returned for a whistle-stop sojourn starting today until 23 January at the Sheraton Imperial KL.

Discerning gourmands will find it easier to sample his inimitable culinaria here than back at the chef's own stomping ground so make haste and book a table asap. Us scribes were lucky enough to enjoy a Fabbri-lous dinner last night hosted by Sheraton Imperial KL as its annual media appreciation dinner and the chef was in top form.

A dainty amuse bouche of salmon with creamy rich cheese got the ball rolling, giving us a tantalising hint of what laid in store. 

The fresh, crisp nuances of Frescobaldi Pomino Bianco DOC heralded the debut of Marcello Fabbri Vitello Tonnato - the chef's newly interpretation of Tuna & Veal. Sprinkled with micro greens and sprigs of dill, it was an artistic palette of ethereally delicate textures and ever so subtle flavours with punctuations of aged balsamic and briny kalamata olives.

A floral-fruity white, Attems Pinot Grigio Venezia Giulia IGT lent vivacious sparkle to a superb Zuppa Di Zucca - velveteen Pumpkin Soup served with Roasted Pumpkin Seeds-crusted Scallops. My dining partner who eschewed anything pumpkin lapped up every drop; a firm testament of the heartwarming soup's soulful appeal which bore the barest whispers of spice. Sweet and moist, the plump scallops were to-die-for.

For me, the evening's show-stopping creation was Risotto Ai Porcini. Now, risotto is Chef Marcello Fabbri's signature speciality hence it was only natural his Risotto of Porcini Mushrooms blew us away. Like a clever magician, he ramped up the rich nutty creaminess of the Italian shortgrain rice with a quenelle of Parmesan Ice Cream. As the luxuriant cheesy topping melted down, every spoonful teased our tastebuds with riffs of hot and cold. Such deliciousness was aptly matched by a voluptuous red, Speri Valpolicella Ripasso Classico Superiore DOC.

The stakes rose higher with Manzo Australiano beefing up the Piatti Principale. Calling on Lamole Di Lamole Blue Label Chianti Classico DOCG - a ruby-red wine with dark cherry and berry notes, the medium rare Australian Black Angus striploin was a gastronomic masterpiece. Served with generous shavings of musky Black Truffle, Potato Confit and Asparagus, one could catch the dish's enticing aroma even before the steak arrived to our table.

Intense ripe red fruits and spice overtones from the Warre Warrior Finest Reserve Port Wine made a winsome pairing with Torta Di Mele Granny Smith - a rustic yet refreshingly light dessert of Granny Smith Apple Tart with Granny Smith Soup and Sorbet. I was partial to the pleasing sorbet with its clear apple accent while the minimalist apple tart of sorts ensured dinner concluded on a satisfactory high but not cloying note.

The Marcello Fabbri's Italian experience is priced at RM220 nett per head (food only) and RM380 (inclusive of matching wine) per head. Call Villa Danieli, tel: 03-2717 9922 for reservations.

 

NEW CHEF CUTS A SWATH AT SENJA

Chef Marco Violano from Puglia, Italy brings over 20 years of culinary experience from internationally acclaimed restaurants and luxury chain hotels worldwide to Senja, the all-new Italian restaurant at The Club Saujana Resort Kuala Lumpur.

Surrounded by a cascading pool and lush gardens, the new Senja now occupies the stylish space (formerly The Restaurant) effective August this year. The plush lounge remains the hallowed threshold that accords arriving patrons tentative glimpses into the ambient-lit dining area. Beyond the bank of French doors is the serene alfresco terrace. 

A complimentary cocktail of Campari Soda heralded our sneak preview of Senja's Malaysia International Gastronomy Festival (MIGF) menu created by Chef Marco. The perfect antidote to drown out the weariness of battling post-work traffic.

Patrons partaking the MIGF menu will commence with Amuse-Bouche of Tortino di

Parmiagiana di Melanzane con Pomodori San Marzano e Crema al Parmigiano (Baked Layers of Eggplant “Parmigiana” Style with Roma Tomatoes, Fresh Basil and Buffalo Mozzarella). 

Such bright, lustrous and winsome flavours evoked by the cheese, eggplant and tomato trinity were brought to a crescendo by the citrusy freshness of the Frankland Estate 2014 Sauvignon Blanc from Western Australia. Our palate was suitably 'amused' in anticipation for the slew of exquisite dishes to come.

 

Appetiser to open the showcase comprised Battuto di Tonno Pinna Gialla con Croccantino di Polpa di Granchio Piccante e Salsa Tonnata (Yellow Fin Tuna Loin Tartare with Crab Cake and Tuna Sauce).

It was comparable to a summer carnival where voluptuous tuna dices dipped and frolicked with the crusty and delicately sweet crab cake, amidst ripples of concentrated savouriness. The sparkling duet garnered extra accolade from the accompanying Western Australia's Frankland Estate 2014 Chardonnay.

Warming up to the stellar performance was Zuppa di Pomodorini Pachino Siciliani con Burratina di Corato ed Olio al Basilico (Sicilian Cherry Tomato Soup with Burrata Cheese) complemented by Margaret River's Miles from Nowhere 2013 Chardonnay. We were bowled over by the vibrant vibes of the Mediterranean in which sun-ripened tomatoes imbued their fruity sweetness into the salubrious broth, amplified by swirls of aromatic basil oil with a mild cheesy richness at its core.

We then fell hook, line and sinker for the sumptuous main course of Rollata di Filetto di Merluzzo con Zucchine Verdi in Guazzetto di Vongole Piccanti (Roasted Cod Wrapped with Zucchini and Lemon Thyme in Spicy Clams Stock and Broccoli Purée).

Washed down with prevalent notes of vanilla, melon & peach in the same Chardonnay, we were reeled in by the smooth, fine textured fish wrapped in zucchini ribbons which had gently soaked up the soulful clam essence and zingy purée.

As an ardent fan of scallops, I succumbed to the lure of Risotto al Nero di sepia con Medaglione di Cappesanta e Bottarga (“Carnaroli” Squid Ink Risotto with Hokkaido Scallops Medallion and “Bottarga”).

Complemented by a plummy Frankland Estate 2014 Shiraz with faint spice overtones, the divine scallop charmed the palate with its coy sweetness; the seafood's tender succulence stood out like a shining beacon in the unctuous pool of bewitchingly dark, nutty grains. A dusting of grated salted mullet roe ensured everything ended on a clean plate.

The chef proved going meat-free need not be boring as his Lasagna Cotta al Forno con

Funghi Porcini e Vellutata al Tartufo (Baked Lasagna with Porcini Mushrooms and Black Truffle Fondue) proffered an endearingly rich, rustic tempo no serious food lover could ignore.

Crème Brulée al Pepe Nero con Composta di Banana (Black Pepper Crème Brulée with Banana Compote) brought sweet closure to our splendid preview. The portion was far too decadent although it was a well-matched cohort for Deakin Estate 2014 Moscato from South Australia.

The special MIGF menu is priced at RM280 nett per person (without wines) and RM370 nett with wine pairing, available until 31 October 2016.

For dining enquiries or reservations at Senja, please call (03) 7806 7000 ext 6722.

Address: The Club Saujana Resort Kuala Lumpur, Jalan Lapangan Terbang SAAS, Shah Alam, Selangor. Website: www.shr.my