LA FAMIGLIA RULES AT MODI & ROSA

Delicious pizza. Hearty pasta. Seasonal items. Set lunches and a kids’ menu. Everything la famiglia wants and more at Modi & Rosa, a new Italian restaurant and wine bar at Glo Damansara.

Entrepreneur Cavaliere Modesto Marini, who’s responsible for spreading the appeal of Italian cuisine in Malaysia some two decades ago, has set out to promote his Italian culinary heritage – first at Marini’s on 57 at the iconic Petronas Twin Towers and as of February this year, at Modi & Rosa.

Touches of moda - the family man – are reinforced in the culinary offerings and the eatery’s overall look and feel with subtle inflections of his wife or rosa. “The heart and soul of Modi & Rosa is a place where my guests could relax, eat well and spend time with family and friends minus any protocol or dress code. Our recipes follow how Italians have been doing it for centuries without alternations or changes to the preparation. It’s fresh and hearty food us Italians are brought up on.”

The contemporary yet rustic setting includes thick wooden tables flanked by cushy leather armchairs and leather upholstered seats. Al fresco dining is available at the external seating area. Ladies get to enjoy complimentary Lucy Cocktail – an invigorating mixture of vodka, watermelon and lemon juice with soda every Thursday from 6pm onwards.

Some Asian-Euro creations such as Deep-fried Soft Shell Crab with Wasabi Mayo (RM23) and Deep-fried Vietnamese Spring Rolls (RM18)are the only concessions made as delectable light bites to complement the house range of wines and other tipples.

Our curtain raiser of Buffalo Mozzarella (RM26) with Fresh Tomato, Basil, Oregano and Extra Virgin Olive Oil is a typical Italian appetiser should you be hosted to a family-style dinner. Delicately creamy with a lush milky overtone, the semi-soft cheese and fruity tomato wedges are a match made in heaven.

Those who don’t enjoy vegetables may find a hearty veggie-based soup like Minestrone (RM16). Celery, carrots, beans, onion, tomatoes with herbs go into this classic broth, unfailingly warming hearts and tummies with every sip.

You can’t go wrong with the pizzas here. The true Italian rule of thumb is to keep things simple (forget about freaky toppings like cornflakes, mayo or crabstick). We find the base of our Pizza Capriciossa (RM36) has that right amount of crisp sturdiness to borne the weight of assorted toppings: mushroom, turkey ham and artichoke. The base has a generous slathering of chunky tomato sauce on it and a restrained amount of melted, stretchy mozzarella.

Somewhat indulgent but homely, you can imagine Italian mamas feeding their families with a big, flavourful dish like Ravioli with Creamed Spinach Sauce (RM36). Almost similar to Chinese wantan, the pasta stuffing tends to vary according to recipes. Here, the stuffed pasta has mushroom in it; smothered under thick truffle spinach sauce.

Interestingly, Modi & Rosa uses carnaroli – the king of Italian rice –for its signature Carnaroli Risotto with Seafood (RM38). These grains are even starchier than Arborio, bestowing the dish with a velvety unctuousness that melds the inherent seafood sweetness and earthy tomato nuance together.

Not into carbs? Then plump for the Crispy Duck with Honey Gravy (RM38) and Mash. This is something to write home about – the sizeable, meaty duck leg is a well-balanced, wholesome distillation of what Italian food is all about. Simple and uncomplicated like how mama would cook it.

No surprises lurk in the dessert section but everyone prefers it that way I think. The ultra-wobbly Panna Cotta with Walnuts & Honey (RM17) deserves special mention as this is a tricky treat to get right. I love the light, smooth yet silky rich texture that doesn’t leave you wracked with guilt.

Instead of ‘tipu-misu’, you can expect the real deal when it comes to Tiramisu (RM20). Nothing perks up the tastebuds quite like sublime layers of liqueur-infused and espresso-soaked savoiardi (lady finger sponge biscuits) with mascarpone.

Less strenuous on the budget would be the Lunch Specials priced at RM38++ in addition to Happy Hours from 3pm to 9pm. Kids’ menu options available at only RM18++.

For reservations, please Modi & Rosa, tel: 03-7733 1719. Address: Lot 06&07, LG Floor, Glo Damansara, Jalan Damansara, Kuala Lumpur. Open daily 11am-230pm; 6pm-1030pm.