CHINTA COURTS MALAY FOOD LOVERS

Classic Malay cuisine by resident chef Sandra Samad takes pride of place at Chinta by Chinoz in Bangsar.

Heralding a fresh chapter for Chinoz on the Park after its move from Suria KLCC, owner Teng Wee Jeh explains Chinta is a totally different concept from the original Chinoz, saying “For the interim period until the other outlet is ready (in Lucky Gardens, Bangsar), some Chinoz signature specials will appear in the menu at Chinta. Once the other restaurant opens, Chinta will focused solely on Malay dishes.”

Chef Sandra Samad who has a wealth of F&B experience, started at front of house at Rasa Sayang Hotel Penang. Then she became the duty manager at BonTon KL. Prior to joining Chinoz, she was the manager at q*doz Bangsar. During her tenure at Chinoz on the Park, Sandra oversaw the pastry and central kitchen for all Chinoz outlets.

Verdant greenery outside the restaurant beckons diners in. The simple interior exudes old world charm; retro knick-knacks such as wooden biscuit moulds, Nyonya baskets, rustic side cupboards and marble-topped tables as well as framed vintage prints serve as visual interest and decorative touches. 

Teng says, “Chinta serves classic Malay cuisine. Nowadays a lot of Malay food is either too pedas (spicy-hot) or lacks subtlety. At Chinta, flavour is more important than chilli ‘power’. You won’t need a kevlar-coated palate to enjoy our food!”

Topping the must-try list is Chinta’s Northern-style Nasi Ulam Utara (RM33++). Lightly flavoured with fresh turmeric, Basmati rice is tossed with at least 11 types of ulam (fresh local herbs). We love the delicate aroma of the myriad of herbs in the rice; good enough to be enjoyed on its own with a dollop of sambal.

If you order the lunch platter of the herbed rice, it comes with Ayam Rose, telur masin (salted duck egg), keropok ikan (fried fish crackers) and acar (pickles) as a complete meal.

The Ayam Rose (RM27++) is Chef Sandra’s take on the celebratory Malay dish of ayam masak merah – chicken cooked in a vibrant red sauce of tomato, chillies and spices. We like the stimulating complexity of the thick sauce: a cohesive melange of tangy tomatoes, chillies, onion, lemongrass and various spices. 

Well-smoked beef slices make the house speciality of Daging Salai Gulai Lemak (RM39++) outstanding in our books. The  gravy, accentuated by ground pepper and lemongrass’ fresh lemony-grassiness, has just the right degree of lemak santan (coconut cream richness) to it.

It's a highly recommended dish – we can’t wait to return to try the smoked beef short ribs version or Gulai Lemak Rusuk Salai (RM48++).

For a serving of greens, you can’t go wrong with Bendi Sambal Goreng (RM15++) – tender whole okra topped with coarsely pounded and fried red chillies, and crispy anchovies. Although the various dishes are tame in the fiery-hot department, each one is redolent with appetising, vivid flavours of the ingredients used.

As an avid fan of mee rebus, I’m stoked to find an on-point Mee Rebus Johor (RM19++). The thick, sweet-savoury gravy together with some batter crisps, firm beancurd, hardboiled egg, chopped spring onion and coriander, sliced beef and yellow noodles is satisfyingly delicious.

Local kuih naturally takes centrestage for dessert. The floral-shape, pretty as a picture Kuih Lapis Sakura (2 pcs, RM9++) is a light, subtly sweet treat to conclude the meal. We can’t get enough of the local confection’s ‘boing boing’ texture.

Equally notable is Kuih Kaswi (4 pcs, RM9++) – steamed cake made with tapioca and rice flour, palm sugar and pandan, and eaten with grated coconut.

Thirst-quenchers to try include Sarbat Pulau Pinang (RM12++) – a refreshing drink of spiced rose syrup with coconut juice and Kasturi Asam Boi (RM9++), fresh calamansi juice with salty preserved plums.

Teng informs us Chinta’s menu will change periodically. “The selection will remain relatively small as Sandra prefers to maintain the overall quality of the food.”

For reservations call Chinta by Chinoz, tel: 03-2201 375624. Address: Jalan Kemuja, Bukit Bangsar, Kuala Lumpur 

SAJIAN MERENTASI ZAMAN AT CURATE FOR RAMADAN

It will be a culinary trip down memory lane with Chef Dato’ Fazley Yaakob at Four Seasons Hotel Kuala Lumpur (FSHKL) come Ramadan, where the month-long Sajian Merentasi Zaman (Food Across Generations) familial feast will take place at Curate from April 13 to May 12, 2021.

FSHKL General Manager Alex Porteous (pix above, right) says “With our thoughtfully curated dining experiences and caring service, families can once again share meaningful moments and build new memories together. This year, it is time to reconnect with loved ones and cherish them.”

In line with new norm SOPs, the assisted buffet spread will highlight beloved recipes from Chef Dato’ Fazley’s childhood, cherished dishes handed down from generations, and delicacies evoking feelings of nostalgia in parents and grandparents.

FSHKL Executive Chef Junious Dickerson with Chef Dato' Fazley

According to Chef Dato’ Fazley “cooking is an act of love and healing. My grandmother was the heart of our home and her cooking brought us together. I want to create that same feeling for other families with Sajian Merentasi Zaman.”

Top of the ‘must eat’ list is Nasi Nyiru Ayam Baka Pasu (pandan-scented rice with charcoal-grilled chicken in claypot served on traditional coconut leaf woven platter; the rice platter can be complemented by your choice of assorted curries and condiments from the buffet spread). Another favourite of ours is Nasi Tumpang (cone-shape packs of flavoured rice with coconut sambal, egg and curry) which can be enjoyed on its own or perked up by the wide array of curries as shown here. 

Rare local fruits and herbs such as cermai (Malay gooseberry) and pegaga (Asiatic pennywort) also find their way into Chef Dato’ Fazley’s culinary repertoire, appearing in his speciality of Ikan Sepat Masin Masak Lemak Cili Api Buah Cermai & Pucuk Pegaga (fermented freshwater fish in turmeric cream with cermai & pegaga) to pique diners’ interest. He also urges us to sample the traditional delight of Puyuh Salai & Kulit Mangga Muda Bakar (smoked quail with grilled unripe mangoes).

A refreshing and healthy selection of local salads to whet the appetite also beckons invitingly. Tempting choices include Urap Jantung Pisang Udang Geragau, Kerabu Pucuk Paku Daging Salai, Kerabu Kulit Tembikai & Kacang Tanah Panggang, Kerabu Telur Ikan, Kerabu Udang Tomato Hijau, and Rojak Buah among others.

For bursts of heat and palate-pleasers rustled up by the Curate team, stop by for chicken, beef or crabs doused in fiery hot, creamy-rich coconut milk gravy from the Lemak Cili Api Station or try Asam Pedas Pari Bakar Telur Masin. A fearsome Tenggiri with Gremolata takes pride of place at the grill station.

 

Over at the Middle Eastern section, a whole Roast Lamb awaits atop aromatic spice-scented rice, accompanied by Beetroot Labneh, Warak Enab and Babaganoush.

Equal attention has been devoted to the beverage and dessert selection. Thirst-quenchers ranging from syrup to teh tarik and local coffee, complement the chef’s notable sweets. From the wide tableau available, our preferred finds are: Lempeng Kelapa (coconut pancakes with palm syrup), Kuih Gertas (chewy fried glutinous rice flour cakes crusted with sugar), Sira Labu (caramelised pumpkin wedges), Kelamai Buluh (little cones of fudgy glutinous rice, brown sugar and coconut milk wrapped in banana leaf), Puteri Mandi (colourful glutinous rice discs in coconut milk) and Kuih Ubi (steamed tapioca, sweet potato with condiments).

Sajian Merentasi Zaman at Curate will be available at the following prices:

April 13 to 18 and May 7 to 12

RM189 per adult; RM94.50 per child (age 6-12)

April 19 to May 6

RM228 per adult; RM109 per child (age 6-12)

For bookings or queries, call Four Seasons Hotel Kuala Lumpur, tel: 03-2382 8888.